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mango sentinel posted:HOW?!?! I don't know how he did it, but theres a really cool method called reverse washing that lets you neatly pick out elaborate raised details like that: http://majorwilliams.blogspot.com/2011/04/gundam-building-101-reverse-wash-and.html
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Mar 3, 2017 23:21
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Neurolimal posted:I don't know how he did it, but theres a really cool method called reverse washing that lets you neatly pick out elaborate raised details like that: I don't think it was that, there's two different highlight colors on that mothership core.
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Mar 4, 2017 02:06
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Ayn Marx posted:Anyone has feedback on this place ? I desperately want some cyclone missile launchers for my Space awuuuuuu Spellcrow are cool and good.
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Mar 4, 2017 02:09
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I love that you get Bob Ross on twitch but gently caress does he make me feel bad about my own skills.
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Mar 4, 2017 10:25
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Is there an easy way to get individual Scale 75 paints in America? I have been wanting to try out their colored metals but I don't think I want to get a whole 40 dollar set for one or two colors
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Mar 4, 2017 15:32
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Is there an easy way to get individual Scale 75 paints in America? I have been wanting to try out their colored metals but I don't think I want to get a whole 40 dollar set for one or two colors Try here.
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Mar 4, 2017 16:12
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Is there an easy way to get individual Scale 75 paints in America? I have been wanting to try out their colored metals but I don't think I want to get a whole 40 dollar set for one or two colors https://scale75usa.myshopify.com/collections/metal-n-alchemy or https://scalegames.com/epages/57739.../Acrylic_colors (Not 100% sure what the difference between the two is.) Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Mar 4, 2017 |
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Mar 4, 2017 18:22
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K, this airbrush is cool and good. How do you all mix your paints - using neat paints seems like a bad idea but I'm not sure how, in practical terms, to actually get paint _thinner together in the paint cup at the right consistency without wasting loads of paint. Halp?
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Mar 4, 2017 19:08
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thespaceinvader posted:K, this airbrush is cool and good. You can mix them in a disposable cup first. I'm lazy so I just pour the paint and thinner into the airbrush cup, block the nozzle with my finger, and spray. The air ends up flowing towards the cup instead of the nozzle, bubbling and mixing the liquids.
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Mar 4, 2017 19:18
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thespaceinvader posted:K, this airbrush is cool and good. I use disposable cups, then just a toothpick to mix it in the cup. Specifically I use tattoo ink cups, they're small, cheap, and paint doesn't stick to the sides as bad as other materials. like these: https://www.amazon.com/Professional...=tattoo+ink+cup
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Mar 4, 2017 20:13
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Oh cool thanks for the links. Going to paint so much gaudy metal
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Mar 5, 2017 00:35
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So I finally decided to redo my color scheme from purple and blue/green to this:  I like it a lot more. I think I'm going to leave it flat, and just do lenses and glowy bits for now. Later on once in better at painting I'll worry about wet blending and highlights and stuff. Sorry for the washed out photos, I'll try to take better photos when I'm somewhere with better lighting.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:03
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That's a much nicer scheme imo, good choice
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Mar 5, 2017 01:10
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Neurolimal posted:I don't know how he did it, but theres a really cool method called reverse washing that lets you neatly pick out elaborate raised details like that: I saw the steps and my thought process was like this. Prime -okay. Color it all in thickly with laquer paint or whatever - you lost all the details but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt. Zippo lighter fluid - okay whoa that was a quick turn for the dangerous. Was expecting powdered glass or brake fluid in the next slide.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:16
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Hopefully this order of Scale 75 stuff will do what I want it too. I don't know why I am so fascinated with weird color metals, but it is really neat. How would I go about highlighting this kind of stuff? Just hit it with a wash and highlight it back with the starting color?
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Mar 5, 2017 01:21
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EVIL Gibson posted:I saw the steps and my thought process was like this. Lighter fluid in that tutorial is because Enamel gets thinned very easily by it (so gently rubbing the raised elements pulls the paint off cleanly) and is cheaper for general thinning than brand thinners. You can do what he did with any sort of thinner for the paint, the only prerequisite is that it not interact/eat through the top coat. Also that site is for gundam models, which are treated similar to vehicle kits as far as paints and modeling techniques go.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:22
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Neurolimal posted:Lighter fluid in that tutorial is because Enamel gets thinned very easily by it (so gently rubbing the raised elements pulls the paint off cleanly) and is cheaper for general thinning than brand thinners. You can do what he did with any sort of thinner for the paint, the only prerequisite is that it not interact/eat through the top coat. Oh don't worry, I see where he was going and why he had to use it. It's totally great! Its just that it reminds me there are people that think that powdered glass is the best fake snow you can get and willing to risk accidentally breathing some in and permanently gently caress up their lungs forever.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:29
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I thought you were just being hyperbolic with that stuff  Hobbyists: my lung cancer is hyperrealistic and scene-accurate
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Mar 5, 2017 01:32
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I'm crossposting the poo poo out of the latest episode of the 40k Badcast, because this time around we have a nice talk about painting, and our Hot Pro Tipz on how to paint: https://40kbadcast.com/2017/03/04/40k-badcast-05-activate-fudge-pattern-69/
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Mar 5, 2017 01:48
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All of that stuff is good advice, yo.
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Mar 5, 2017 02:08
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Just a quick update. The body of this dude is done so now, i can move on to the rest of him.   
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Mar 5, 2017 03:02
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:That's a much nicer scheme imo, good choice   Thanks!This is the dude I was talking about. His videos are great fun to watch, and I'm learning tons about techniques I hadn't realized existed. The Bob Ross nostalgia is strong..  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fBnN6Yy7uE Edit: Does anyone have a technique for highlighting/shading Tau armor that isn't edge highlighting every single sharp edge with a lighter shade of the existing color? Though I'm leaving it flat for now, I kind of want to start getting ideas of where to go next, if anywhere at all.  This example must have taken forever and seems to involve a ton of high level techniques, but it just feels like a grad student throwing every single thing they learned over 10 years into one project because they can, rather than should.  Even this seems like it's too much. This kind of thing makes them look like they are made of some kind of cartoon marshmellow material, as opposed to being made of alien space polycarbonates or something. I guess my problem is I'm not sure how multifaceted metal, or dense material should shine or appear under lighting, but it doesn't seem it should shine like that. I guess I want to do something more subtle, but still allow for the material to be perceived as it should, but I don't exactly know what to search for in Google/Youtube for any kind of guide.  Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 05:52
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Can anyone here speak to the difference between Nuln Oil Gloss and the old, regular Nuln Oil? Is it all that different or is that just different marketing? (And yes, I know don't give GW money and I don't other than three of their washes because you take my Seraphim Sepia out of my cold, dead hands.)
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Mar 5, 2017 07:36
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Edge highlighting is quite simple, just don't have to much paint on your brush and use the flat rather than the tip. I wouldn't even try doing those awesome light effects you have done and I can do it! Also you can cheat and use a watercolour pen
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Mar 5, 2017 08:14
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rantmo posted:Can anyone here speak to the difference between Nuln Oil Gloss and the old, regular Nuln Oil? Is it all that different or is that just different marketing? (And yes, I know don't give GW money and I don't other than three of their washes because you take my Seraphim Sepia out of my cold, dead hands.) The gloss has a shiny finish, the regular does not. I accidentally grabbed Agrax gloss and it made the cape I was shading look kinda like polished leather. I'm sure gloss wash has uses if you want something to look plastic or vinyl, but otherwise ignore it. mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 08:15
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mango sentinel posted:HOW?!?! Insane amounts of patience and discipline I guess. That is crazy.
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Mar 5, 2017 12:47
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Are y'all really wondering about the dots? Those are just painted on with a brush. Most other people asked about the metallic purple instead  Edit: I plan on doing a step by step thing fr the Shaltari just like i did for my UCM. Bistromatic fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 14:26
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rantmo posted:Can anyone here speak to the difference between Nuln Oil Gloss and the old, regular Nuln Oil? Is it all that different or is that just different marketing? (And yes, I know don't give GW money and I don't other than three of their washes because you take my Seraphim Sepia out of my cold, dead hands.) I think the Gloss formulas are theoretically more inclined to go into recesses, sort of like homebrewed Future-based washes. I've used Gloss to do spot details, blacklining, etc. The regular formulas tend to stay more on the broader surfaces when applied as an overall wash. That's been my experience, at least.
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Mar 5, 2017 14:57
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rantmo posted:Can anyone here speak to the difference between Nuln Oil Gloss and the old, regular Nuln Oil? Is it all that different or is that just different marketing? (And yes, I know don't give GW money and I don't other than three of their washes because you take my Seraphim Sepia out of my cold, dead hands.) I haven't used them personally, but GW's marketing described them as intended for use over metallics, to reduce dulling down of the shine.
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Mar 5, 2017 23:04
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I hit all my miniatures with a gloss, then matte varnish. After that I haven't noticed a different between the gloss and normal.
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Mar 5, 2017 23:16
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Floppychop posted:I hit all my miniatures with a gloss, then matte varnish. After that I haven't noticed a different between the gloss and normal. Is this an effective way to stop matte varnish ruining the sheen of metals, or just for extra protection?
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Mar 6, 2017 01:37
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Anyone have experience with waterslide transfers over a metallic color (such as Tamiya clear red over silver)? Worried about the usual step of gloss over the transfer effecting the metallic red.
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Mar 6, 2017 02:54
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Texmo posted:Is this an effective way to stop matte varnish ruining the sheen of metals, or just for extra protection? Gloss for protection (I use future floor finish) then matte so it's not glossy as hell. It does make metals lose their normal sheen, but I play "dirty" factions in the games I play (Orks and Skaven) so it's not as bad for me. If I need something to be glossy; blood, glass, etc... I just brush on some of the glossy finish on the specific areas.
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Mar 6, 2017 03:10
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Floppychop posted:Gloss for protection (I use future floor finish) then matte so it's not glossy as hell. I was just coming to ask about getting rid of the sheen on transfers. Recently applied a bunch to my Skitarii Vanguard and Rangers. So I should seal them with a gloss varnish first, then go over all of it with the matte?
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Mar 6, 2017 03:14
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GreenMarine posted:I like the wrecker. I also like that you took the effort to paint the different cables different colors. It's an overlooked way to add some character to a model. Thanks man! That's an old habit from my ork days. Really adds some necessary color to an otherwise drab model.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:17
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Zuul the Cat posted:I was just coming to ask about getting rid of the sheen on transfers. Recently applied a bunch to my Skitarii Vanguard and Rangers. For the 'perfect' transfers, go with a layer or two of goloss varnish first to prepare the spot you want the transfer on, then slap the transfer on the patch. Seal it in with a layer of gloss varnish, and then tone down the sheen with matte. The 'sheen' on transfers is actually teenytiny airbubbles caught in the irregularities of the apint unhder the transfer; the layers of gloss underneath make for a smooth, even surface that doesn't harbor bubbles.
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Mar 6, 2017 06:43
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Quick skin-tone question, would anyone have a good guide/advice on painting Native American and Middle Eastern tones? Preferably using Citadel stuff as that's most readily available.
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Mar 6, 2017 14:10
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Drake_263 posted:For the 'perfect' transfers, go with a layer or two of goloss varnish first to prepare the spot you want the transfer on, then slap the transfer on the patch. Seal it in with a layer of gloss varnish, and then tone down the sheen with matte. The 'sheen' on transfers is actually teenytiny airbubbles caught in the irregularities of the apint unhder the transfer; the layers of gloss underneath make for a smooth, even surface that doesn't harbor bubbles. Micro-Set and Micro-Sol also work wonders and will soften and relax the transfer, letting it adhere better to surfaces that aren't just flat panels.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:04
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Finished up the Vanguard Alpha for my 2nd Vanguard squad out of 3. I need to still drybrush the base and gloss/matte the transfers to get rid of the shine. Maybe fix the power cable in the back. I decided to add different colored skulls that come with the transfer sheets to denote different squads. Yellow, Black and White skulls for the 3 different Vanguard squads. Also, on this vanguard I didn't go as crazy with the coat. Just a Mephiston Red base coat, Nuln Oil wash, 2nd coat of Mephiston Red then a highlight of Wild Rider Red. Do you guys think it looks as okay as the others, or should I go over it again? Sorry for the glare.     Actually, looking at it now, I need to hit the back rad sensor with the green gemstone paint too.
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Mar 6, 2017 18:35
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Awoooo  Also, any advice on fixing my sloppy gluing of these wolfnought leg besides dumping a ton of paint in the gaps? I built this guy before discovering plastic glue.  
Ayn Marx fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Mar 6, 2017 |
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Mar 6, 2017 19:24
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