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Pham Nuwen posted:what appears to be unburned fuel dripping out the back at idle? zundfolge posted:Are you sure it's unburned fuel coming out the tailpipe? It being anything but water condensing inside the exhaust seems highly improbable. When I was fiddling with base timing on my rebuilt B20 (Volvo-Penta AQ115 boat engine) last summer, google told me about numbers in various places saying 10, 15, 20 or 21-23° BTDC (at 1500rpm with vacuum advance disconnected). Not sure how different timing on B30 would be, most things being the same except two more cylinders, but the distributor is obviously different. Don't remember what I actually went with, it was whatever was in the most authentic-looking manual.
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Mar 5, 2017 12:20
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I wish I could plug in a DSC Sport into my R and let it control the suspension.
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Mar 8, 2017 02:06
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Hey toplitzin, did you ever get the problem where you ran out of gas early solved? Because I finally did a fuel pump in one of these cars so I understand what causes it.
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Mar 8, 2017 09:42
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It's still not cured. I put right sized tires on it and the Distance to Empty is more right as is the bingo light, but i still haven't dropped a full tank of gas (18 Gal) into it yet.
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Mar 8, 2017 16:49
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Xpost from the CL thread:Dagen H posted:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Volvo-Bertone-PARTS-CAR-/132111609685?hash=item1ec2772f55:g:Wu4AAOSw3v5Ytko-&vxp=mtr
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Mar 8, 2017 16:58
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toplitzin posted:It's still not cured. I put right sized tires on it and the Distance to Empty is more right as is the bingo light, but i still haven't dropped a full tank of gas (18 Gal) into it yet. It's possible that removing and correctly reinstalling your fuel pump will probably fix it, unless whoever installed it kinked one of the hoses. Then you have to replace the whole thing. But yeah these cars have a tank that straddles the driveshaft and it has a siphon tube that goes over to the driver's side. I'm sure that your siphon tube isn't working due to bad installation. It is very easy to kink it. Anyway, the whole replacement unit is available for under $200 if you shop around, probably be worth it to get those last few miles of range.
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Mar 8, 2017 20:32
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i'm having incredible difficulty getting the new water pump on my 240 to not leak from the fitting to the head. any advice to get this silly thing back together?
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Mar 11, 2017 19:05
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Are you following the rule of slide it on, spin on the two nuts loosely, then pry it upwards with a prybar and hold it while tightening everything else? Are you lubricating the seals so they slide around? Have you checked with a mirror to make sure there's no junk stuck to the surfaces? Maybe get a friend to help pry while you tighten. It can be a bitch.
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Mar 12, 2017 17:42
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I've got a 2005 V50 T5 AWD. What part number do I need to replace the exterior weather stripping at the bottom of all the windows that roll down? Does the metal bit underneath get replaced as well or do I scrape the dried and cracking poo poo off it? Also, recommend me from wipers.
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Mar 13, 2017 18:14
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LloydDobler posted:It's possible that removing and correctly reinstalling your fuel pump will probably fix it, unless whoever installed it kinked one of the hoses. Then you have to replace the whole thing. But yeah these cars have a tank that straddles the driveshaft and it has a siphon tube that goes over to the driver's side. I'm sure that your siphon tube isn't working due to bad installation. It is very easy to kink it. Bingo light came on today on the way into work. (commute is 8.5mi) Filled up on the way home with 40-45 left as DTE. Per manual: All turbo models - 18 US gal. (68 liters) When the warning light in the gauge comes on, there are approximately 1.8 US gal. (8 liters) of fuel remaining in the tank. Survey says: 
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Mar 14, 2017 23:19
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Did I basically screw you over by promising you it had a 21 gallon tank? I have since learned that FWD wagons have 21 gal tanks and everything else has 18. Or does 15 gal fillups still mean that something is off?
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Mar 15, 2017 08:17
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LloydDobler posted:Did I basically screw you over by promising you it had a 21 gallon tank? I have since learned that FWD wagons have 21 gal tanks and everything else has 18. Nah, you didn't say that. The fifteen is still a smidge off. I'm just pointing out the manual says the bingo light comes on with 1.8gal in the tank and I'm only putting in fifteen instead of 16.5 or more. Basically, there's three gallons in there I'm not getting access to/the bingo light is coming on at 14.5 gallons gone instead of 16.2. When I first got it and it had the oversized tires (since the dte was off) I'd run out of gas and only put in 14-15 gallons. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 11:28
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Went back and actually read the thread, answered my own question
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Mar 16, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 17:35
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I'm looking to do a fluid refresh (Brake, M/T, PS, diff). Coming from subies i'm used to cranky cars wanting specific fluids. I've found the Pentosin CH11S PS fluid, ye olde Prestone DOT4+, but for the M/T the manual only specifies MTF 97309 w/o capacity, and no mention of preferred gear oil/weight for the rear diff. What brands/weights are recommended? toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Mar 17, 2017 |
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Mar 17, 2017 15:28
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The m56 trans takes just over 2 liters so I'm sure the m66 is similar. Lots of guys use Redline MTF in the manuals but a lot of guys swear by OEM fluid. If you want no hassles, go OEM. They seem to hoard the specs so it's hard to be sure if what you're using is gonna be fine. Not sure about the rear diff, so again I'd recommend factory oil for that too, just to be safe. Also don't forget the angle gear, which has separate and different fluid than the trans. Also if it has any signs of moisture on it, take it out and reseal it.
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Mar 17, 2017 20:39
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funtimes. Gear/trans: https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Penta-Gear-Synthetic-1-Quart/dp/B001VMCUKE Or is it this? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volvo-31280771-Manual-Transmission/dp/B019L06148 Rear axle: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volvo-31367238-Replaces-1161620/dp/B00W4DRSYC/ Angle Gear: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volvo-31367237-Replaces-31259380/dp/B00W4DRRA2/ toplitzin fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Mar 18, 2017 |
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Mar 18, 2017 00:44
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Reviving this thread for a question. I'm thinking about picking up a 2014 volvo S60 T5 - are there any maintenance or common problems I should be looking out for? It'll see very light mileage mostly around town, possible snow driving during the winter, it'd be replacing my wife's Camry. I see someone earlier noted that the current gen models seem to be pretty bulletproof in terms of reliability, that's good to hear. Is the factory engine tune fine or is it worth it getting a reflash for reliability/fuel management and not performance? I've been a Subaru guy forever so this "reliable engine tune" thing is new to me.
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Mar 24, 2017 17:36
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"R" stands for "off-Road," right    
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Mar 25, 2017 21:30
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2006 V50 2.5i FWD automatic, non-turbo, with ~130,000 miles. They're asking $5500, probably not a lot of wiggle room. Provided the big 120,000 mile maintenance has been done, anything I should look out for? Rust spots or common issues? I am straight up looking for a car that can do car things, in a place where there is snow+salt for a third of the year. So low maintenance and hopefully not particularly prone to rust. Also always wanted a wagon, and this one will actually fit in my very small garage.
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Mar 30, 2017 04:28
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TheNothingNew posted:2006 V50 2.5i FWD automatic, non-turbo, with ~130,000 miles. They're asking $5500, probably not a lot of wiggle room. From what I can quickly gather from the Swedish motor press, V50 rust proofing from that era is not too bad, but not quite as good as V70's from the same period. Apparently there's not enough protection behind the plastic sheets covering the underside, which might be potential rust areas. Not too easy to look into if you're bying a used car perhaps. FWIW I don't see many if any rusty V50's around Stockholm, and there's certainly lots of road salt around here. On the other hand I see quite a few rotted out v70's despite their reputation of corrosion resistance, although mine seems to be doing fine. I've also read that minor electrical faults are fairly common, as well as mold in the HVAC system. These things are easier to look for, so you can do that much at least.
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Mar 30, 2017 08:17
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atomicthumbs posted:"R" stands for "off-Road," right This is awesome.
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Mar 30, 2017 12:22
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Invalido posted:From what I can quickly gather from the Swedish motor press, V50 rust proofing from that era is not too bad, but not quite as good as V70's from the same period. Apparently there's not enough protection behind the plastic sheets covering the underside, which might be potential rust areas. Not too easy to look into if you're bying a used car perhaps. FWIW I don't see many if any rusty V50's around Stockholm, and there's certainly lots of road salt around here. On the other hand I see quite a few rotted out v70's despite their reputation of corrosion resistance, although mine seems to be doing fine. This is good stuff, and I thank you. Best I could find in the states is that there might be some electrical gremlins, or they may have been sorted by 2006, and mainly "Waah! There aren't enough cubbyholes in this car for all my poo poo."
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Mar 31, 2017 00:35
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Hey guys, somebody buy this because I can't justify it. I've been texting with the seller for the last 10 days, he's a cool dude and definitely knows his poo poo. http://bringatrailer.com/2017/03/28/2700-w-service-history-cold-air-1986-volvo-760-turbo/ \/\/ All very good points. Gonna keep hunting for a civic or something. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 15:42
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What attracts you to that car? If you resent having to spend money on cars and you don't (or soon won't) have the tools, space, or desire to work on them, I'm having trouble understanding why a 30-year-old Volvo holds any appeal for you.  That being said, the timing belt won't hurt anything if it breaks (and it's easy to replace if it does) and the transmission behavior suggests to me that the kickdown cable probably just needs adjusted. The overdrive relay and/or solenoid will keep the transmission from shifting into overdrive if they fail, so they're probably not the source of the issue. For that price the seller should just fix those things if he actually owns/works for a shop, the timing belt is an hour of labor if that if he knows what he's doing and the parts probably cost $50 or less wholesale. The kickdown cable should only take a few minutes to adjust if it's out of whack, and if it's not the fact that it's a bit lazy to shift out of OD until it's warm doesn't scream "impending transmission failure" to me. Is it a 30-year-old car with a lot of miles? Yeah. Does it have some electrical systems that could cause trouble? Yes. Are these things dealbreakers? That's your call, I wouldn't necessarily sweat them if they aren't causing problems right this second. If you only drive 5K a year I doubt anything major will break in the near term. All in all it's a decent example of a car that isn't particularly special or desirable in the pantheon of Volvos. I'd offer him $2200 (or less) and see what he counters with, or see if he'd fix those problems for the asking price. If you pass on it, you're not missing out on the deal of the century if that's what you're worried about. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 17:42
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What attracted me to it mainly is that it's incredibly well maintained. Far more thorough records than I've seen on 95% of craigslist cars that I've seen. The fact that it has a turbo and one of the most legendarily long lived motors out there is incredibly attractive. The fact that most of the issues on the platform from that year have been addressed is incredibly attractive to me. The fact that it's 30 years old is mildly terrifying to me because while I am an adequate diagnostician, I'm not that great at really deep dicking an engine bay or jacking around with suspension components. I guess my qualm is if things go tits up with the thing, how megafucked am I gonna be because I haven't spent every weekend scrounging junkyards for uncommon parts. The seller is also a legit cool dude who has pretty much said he's as good as golden for helping me out knowledge base wise and continued parts flow, so maybe I'm just fuckin' paranoid. We've been chatting all week and I'd drink a beer and BBQ with the guy. I just dunno if I buy this thing can I: break even in a couple years and not worry to much about expensive stuff breaking. I can't afford a transmission but I can afford like $50/mo towards misc poo poo. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Apr 1, 2017 |
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Apr 1, 2017 04:08
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Dagen H, did you ever get your 99 v70XC straightened out? I have had one with 208,000 miles on the clock for a while. It started to get replaced in my fleet, but I always had a soft spot for it. Long story short, blew a head gasket and I screwed up a timing belt replacement, head gasket job and relegated it to the driveway. About 6 months ago I found a new engine from a wreck with only 90K miles. I pulled the old engine and replaced subframe mounts and a bunch of other stuff. I fired it up and it ran, sort of. Kind of lost interest but the past couple of weekends I cleaned her up and she is running well enough to put on the highway. Keep getting the same two codes though along with rough running: P0300 Cylinder 1 misfire P0125 heated O2 control circuit, bank 1, sensor 1 I think the O2 sensor is the precat sensor, which had been replaced with a Bosch Unit before. I switched Coils around (plugs are new OEM Volvo) and the misfire is consistent to Cylinder 1. I am going to throw a different injector on cylinder 1 to see if that is the problem. Anyone got any other ideas as to what I can try while I am in there? After I reset codes, car always runs great for a few minutes before it starts to stumble. Only other code it threw once was a P0332, knock sensor 2, circuit low, bank 2. Battery is new and holding good charge. Only other complaint is I need to swap my old PS pump back in as the new one has a reman unit on it that is squalling pretty bad. I have my 82 BMW 320i sorted out, 06 Crown Vic running good and all other vehicles going okay, so this is the next one with fewest problems I would like getting to go on its own power. EDIT: Also, I cannot tell which ETM I used, but both were yellow label units. I heard a rumor somewhere that newer model units made by Volvo are modded the same as Xemodex units, if anyone has a line on that. Those things are a real bitch to replace and I don't know if I want to throw $500 bucks at it if I can find an 06 or so in a pick a part that will work. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 23:16
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One other thing with the misfire is to check carefully and closely the condition of the wiring. They can get pinched by that plastic cover and even ground out in the worst cases. But that will pop a fuse. Also the wires can slip out of the plug so you get a really weak connection. As for ETMs, later models won't work, the entire architecture of the engine management changed after 03. The ETM isn't a module with software anymore. If you don't want to go xemodex you can buy the sensor and solder it in yourself, just search ebay. In more personal news:  
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Apr 11, 2017 19:52
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Welcome to the Club! Looks like an 05-06 with an FMIC? What load bars are those?
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Apr 11, 2017 20:02
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Yep. One of the super low number of 06 Sonic manuals. Already modded with IPD oval exhaust, Snabb intake and intercooler, and JZW tune. He already blew the 2.5 motor and replaced it with a late model 2.4 T5 motor as well. It's basically all stage 0 with very little for me to do, which suits me fine. Except now I have no justification to make a thread for it. The load bars are OEM Volvo, low profile style. They will be for sale as soon as I figure out what they're worth if you want them. I'm going to try to find the gutter trim and remove the rails completely.
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Apr 11, 2017 21:36
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 Nice find, that's everything I would want in an R too.
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Apr 12, 2017 01:23
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zundfolge posted:
Ditto and thanks for the help Lloyd. Are you speaking of something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-99-00-0...GFUsGEm&vxp=mtr EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 02:01
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I have a '00 S40 that suddenly started having the engine shutting off when the gas pedal is released. It takes a bit of time to turn over but it eventually does. I'm waiting on a new fuel pressure regulator to come in the mail, and I've read that either the MAF sensor or throttle body could be causing this new issue. Could there be anything else that causes the car to shut off like this? The only error code I get is P0303, which I expect the new FPR to take care of. I got new plugs, coils, the wiring harness is good and all that for them too. The Aardvark fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 05:11
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LloydDobler posted:One other thing with the misfire is to check carefully and closely the condition of the wiring. They can get pinched by that plastic cover and even ground out in the worst cases. But that will pop a fuse. Also the wires can slip out of the plug so you get a really weak connection. I hate you so much right now. Also the volvo switched sides of the garage!
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Apr 12, 2017 15:36
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i'm hesistant to post anything about the 740 because things seem to be going ok
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Apr 12, 2017 15:58
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LloydDobler posted:Yep. One of the super low number of 06 Sonic manuals. Already modded with IPD oval exhaust, Snabb intake and intercooler, and JZW tune. He already blew the 2.5 motor and replaced it with a late model 2.4 T5 motor as well. It's basically all stage 0 with very little for me to do, which suits me fine. Except now I have no justification to make a thread for it. Awesome. I am interested in the bars, but I'm down in FL so shipping might be expensive. The gutter trim is tricky to find, especially the single long V trim. I've seen some OEM shipments come in 9' long boxes, from Europe, damaged.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:52
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:i'm hesistant to post anything about the 740 because things seem to be going ok You've already said too much.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:58
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netwerk23 posted:Awesome. I am interested in the bars, but I'm down in FL so shipping might be expensive. The gutter trim is tricky to find, especially the single long V trim. I've seen some OEM shipments come in 9' long boxes, from Europe, damaged. I was figuring on junkyard trim, and then vinyl wrap it something cool or just rattle can it black. Or Yellow. The worst part is the PO CUT UP the sonic trim to install the roof rails. This car was originally rail-less and sunroof-less. Just the way I wanted it. Long skinny boxes aren't that bad, probably like $30 to ship. I'll at least check, then give you dibs if you want.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:42
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My dad recently bought an '07 S60 FWD with ~140k on the odometer. He just had all of the standard maintenance done - timing belt/waterpump/pcv/cam gaskets and all that good stuff. My question is, what the hell should I do with the transmission? It's working great at the moment, but I'm sure the fluid is shot. Do I risk a drain and fill at this mileage? I've heard differing opinions, and I'd really, really hate to advise my dad do something and wind up blowing his trans (he knows nothing about modern cars so he's relying on me for advice).
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Apr 14, 2017 05:18
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shadowzero313 posted:i'm having incredible difficulty getting the new water pump on my 240 to not leak from the fitting to the head. any advice to get this silly thing back together? okay, the trick was to put the o-ring on the heater pipe down to the flared out bit, then put the water pump on. o-ring in the water pump did not work what so ever.
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Apr 14, 2017 06:01
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Has anyone driven one of these with the MT? Any good? https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6016524595.html
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Apr 14, 2017 06:28
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