Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Star Man: Jun 1, 2008; There's a star maaaaaan
Over the rainbow

SteelMentor posted:

Quick skin-tone question, would anyone have a good guide/advice on painting Native American and Middle Eastern tones? Preferably using Citadel stuff as that's most readily available.

This guide's colors are based on the Vallejo line, but you can use a conversion chart to figure it out.

Skintone guide: http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1310-ethnic-skintones

Vallejo model/game color conversion: http://www.modelismoaviones.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/tabla-equivalencias-vallejo.pdf

If you don't have a Citadel color that matches one of the colors from the guide, then mix your colors. But don't use a similar brown and try to lighten and darken it because you won't get anything close. Mix complementary colors instead or use reds and blues with a neutral tone.

# ? Mar 6, 2017 22:20

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# ? Jun 3, 2024 20:12

Southern Heel: Jul 2, 2004

All of my paints are standard Vallejo, and typically I don't paint very big models or vehicles- normally rank and file in 15mm or 28mm, the latter being soldiers, fantasy models, lots of details, etc. - am I going to get much use out of an airbrush? My father nicked my compressor and has offered it back, and at the same time my stepfather has a spare airbrush - I could corral them together in theory, but I'm not sure if it'd just be wasted.

# ? Mar 6, 2017 22:46

Bistromatic: Oct 3, 2004; And turn the inner eye
To see its path...

Hell yes! Even if you just do basecoats and nothing else it'll be so much faster, thinner and smoother. Basecoats were always the step i hated the most before i got my airbrush and then they suddenly became a breeze.

# ? Mar 6, 2017 22:53

Kabuki Shipoopi: Jun 22, 2007; If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

First base! :pervert:

Haven't glued down the tufts yet, considering a more brown gravel color.

As for the plastic base, I was thinking a light grey/slate color?

What's your opinion guys?

# ? Mar 6, 2017 23:17

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

Nice and effective, without being too distracting. I'd personally keep the base rim black. The green tufts look good, but a more dried-grass coloured one would compliment the sand coloured panels on your suit.

# ? Mar 6, 2017 23:24

Chill la Chill: Jul 2, 2007; Don't lose your gay

Bistromatic posted:

Hell yes! Even if you just do basecoats and nothing else it'll be so much faster, thinner and smoother. Basecoats were always the step i hated the most before i got my airbrush and then they suddenly became a breeze.

Basecoats are dumb and boring and aren't interesting at all to do. I actually started looking forward to painting my Tau crisis suits after giving them a nice basecoat now. I'd much rather spend 3 hours getting one portion of a leg armor just right with NMM and highlighting than having to do the mindless task of basecoating.

# ? Mar 6, 2017 23:25

Kabuki Shipoopi: Jun 22, 2007; If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

ijyt posted:

Nice and effective, without being too distracting. I'd personally keep the base rim black. The green tufts look good, but a more dried-grass coloured one would compliment the sand coloured panels on your suit.

Thanks for the input! You know, when I was at the shop I was thinking that a more dead colored grass was going to go better with the suit too, but I thought the stark contrast would make more sense naturally, and help draw the eye over the entire mini. :shrug:

I've been flying by the seat of my pants during this whole process. Since I haven't glued them down yet, I can always snag a new pack of tufts and see what I like more.

Thanks again for the input!

# ? Mar 6, 2017 23:42

Pierzak: Oct 30, 2010

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

First base!

Haven't glued down the tufts yet, considering a more brown gravel color.

As for the plastic base, I was thinking a light grey/slate color?

What's your opinion guys?

If you want brown, put some sepia was on that gravel in some places to break the monotony.
Rims definitely black.
I'd do the drybrushing in 3 progressively lighter stages but it looks good to go anyway. Now do another 200 of them. :v:

# ? Mar 7, 2017 00:12

Negative Entropy: Nov 30, 2009

I made some Mars hemispheres for an Eclipse Phase game and Battletech fleet games.

Finally painted up my remaining Cloud Cobra fleet assets

and got a cool display cabinet.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 01:15

Kabuki Shipoopi: Jun 22, 2007; If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Pierzak posted:

If you want brown, put some sepia was on that gravel in some places to break the monotony.
Rims definitely black.
I'd do the drybrushing in 3 progressively lighter stages but it looks good to go anyway. Now do another 200 of them.

Luckily, I don't have that many spacemans yet. Definitely going to leave the bases black, and I like the idea of some sepia wash, I just need to get some. :v:

Thanks for the tips guys.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 02:12

R0ckfish: Nov 18, 2013

I have a dumb question on airbrushes, whenever I look around I see two contradictory opinions about getting a first one; either they are super on the get the ~100 buck combo or they say go straight for the badger/iwata + a nice compressor. which would you lot suggest?

# ? Mar 7, 2017 02:17

Wirth1000: May 12, 2010; #essereFerrari

I just wanted to say that I dipped a shittily painted car model in a tub of SuperClean for a couple hours and holy poo poo does this stuff work. Amazing.

That's all.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 02:28

Negative Entropy: Nov 30, 2009

R0ckfish posted:

I have a dumb question on airbrushes, whenever I look around I see two contradictory opinions about getting a first one; either they are super on the get the ~100 buck combo or they say go straight for the badger/iwata + a nice compressor. which would you lot suggest?

My opinion, buy a cheap poo poo one and see how much you use it.
if you do use it, or want to but are held back by it being poo poo. buy a nice one.

If you paint 4 things and then pack it away for months. less money lost.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 04:24

The Sisko: Jan 9, 2009; "Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."

X post from the 30k thread

The Sisko posted:

Warning! lovely cell phone pictures incoming :

AWWWUUUUUUUUU!!!

# ? Mar 7, 2017 06:48

DPM: Feb 23, 2015; TAKE ME HOME
I'LL CHECK YA BUM FOR GRUBS

The Sisko posted:

X post from the 30k thread

idgaf about warhams or space wolves but this owns super hard dude holy gently caress

# ? Mar 7, 2017 09:23

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

thespaceinvader posted:

K, this airbrush is cool and good.

How do you all mix your paints - using neat paints seems like a bad idea but I'm not sure how, in practical terms, to actually get paint _thinner together in the paint cup at the right consistency without wasting loads of paint. Halp?

Figure out what your ideal mix is based on the paint brand, then mix in the brush cup from there. I don't waste my time with separate mixing cups - so much paint winds up getting wasted by virtue of sticking to the cup. Just put your airbrush thinner/medium in the brush cup, then add your paint. Backflow to mix the paint/thinner and you should be good. Test on a piece of paper or card before you spray your model - if you need to adjust your mix for whatever reason, just add a drop and perform a backflow to mix.

R0ckfish posted:

I have a dumb question on airbrushes, whenever I look around I see two contradictory opinions about getting a first one; either they are super on the get the ~100 buck combo or they say go straight for the badger/iwata + a nice compressor. which would you lot suggest?

Get the combo. Like Kommando said, you'll need to figure out how much use you're going to get out of it. Look at it this way - if you are starting out in anything, you're going to get a reasonably priced package and not jump into the top of the line setup. You can always upgrade if you decide it is something you're going to continue with on a regular basis.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 16:18

Zuul the Cat: Dec 24, 2006; Grimey Drawer

The Sisko posted:

X post from the 30k thread

Every time I look at this post I find something else that's really well done. The Skin tones, the hair, the armor.

You did an amazing job! Do you have full army shots in the 30k thread?

# ? Mar 7, 2017 16:49

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Does anyone know of a company that produces a white technical pen (like a Micron?) I need to do some rune identifiers on some Man O' War models, and do not want to freehand that poo poo with a brush.

EDIT: May have found one - Uniball Signo

VV Thanks VV

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Mar 7, 2017

# ? Mar 7, 2017 17:03

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

berzerkmonkey posted:

Does anyone know of a company that produces a white technical pen (like a Micron?) I need to do some rune identifiers on some Man O' War models, and do not want to freehand that poo poo with a brush.

https://www.jetpens.com/Pentel-Hybrid-Gel-Grip-DX-Gel-Pen-1.0-mm-White/pd/5255

https://www.jetpens.com/Pilot-Juice-Up-Gel-Pen-0.4-mm-White/pd/18173

I couldn't find an 0.05-sized one anywhere, which is typically my go-to for black. These ought to be good enough for models though.

# ? Mar 7, 2017 17:15

Kabuki Shipoopi: Jun 22, 2007; If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Oh I never considered this for detail work! What a good idea, thanks!

# ? Mar 7, 2017 21:15

The Sisko: Jan 9, 2009; "Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."

Zuul the Cat posted:

Every time I look at this post I find something else that's really well done. The Skin tones, the hair, the armor.

You did an amazing job! Do you have full army shots in the 30k thread?

Believe or not you're looking at what I have for my 30k Space Wolves. He's the model that made me want to start another 30k army (my other army being 30k Word Bearers). I'm a weirdo in that I love doing my leaders and heroes first and infantry last.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 07:19

with a rebel yell she QQd: Jan 18, 2007; Villain

Been working on the star player addition to my orc BB team for a while now, and decided I'm close enough to finishing that I can show it off.

I present you Varag Ghoul-chewer

And yeah never look at the zoomed in photos of your minis because you will only see mistakes.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 12:59

hexa: Dec 10, 2004; And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom

That's looking really nice.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 13:39

Cannibal Smiley: Feb 20, 2013

So, I have a question about wet palettes.

I'm making a wet palette out of some Reynolds brand parchment paper - the non-stick kind - and a sandwich container, and I'm not getting the results that I want. Specifically, the paper, rather than sucking up water and keeping the paint wet, is actively hydrophobic. Water just slides right off of it, and the paint, when mixed with water, beads up on the surface.

Now, this might be the intended result that I'm looking for, but when I've used butcher paper, it worked a lot better - the paint stayed wet and didn't bead up, and the paper was wet but not soaked. I'm thinking that the reason why my wet palette isn't working right is because I'm using non-stick parchment paper, which I understand has a silocone/wax coating that keeps it non-stick, but also keeps it from absorbing water.

I went on a shopping trip last night trying to find parchment paper that was non-stick, but didn't have any luck. I was thinking about picking up a wet palette from an art store, but I've heard that the pores are too big for miniature paint, especially when thinned.

Anybody have any idea as to what I'm doing wrong?

# ? Mar 8, 2017 16:29

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

with a rebel yell she QQd posted:

Been working on the star player addition to my orc BB team for a while now, and decided I'm close enough to finishing that I can show it off.

I present you Varag Ghoul-chewer

And yeah never look at the zoomed in photos of your minis because you will only see mistakes.

That's one fine fuckin' Orc right there. Great color palette, love the checks.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 16:46

Chill la Chill: Jul 2, 2007; Don't lose your gay

Darren MacLennan posted:

So, I have a question about wet palettes.

I use an art store wet palette and I often see the colors bleeding down to the sponge, so that might be why. It doesn't affect its performance, however. You have to boil parchment paper before using it.
http://handcannononline.com/blog/2012/06/15/a-beginners-guide-to-wet-palates-build-your-own/

# ? Mar 8, 2017 16:51

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Darren MacLennan posted:

So, I have a question about wet palettes.

I'm making a wet palette out of some Reynolds brand parchment paper - the non-stick kind - and a sandwich container, and I'm not getting the results that I want. Specifically, the paper, rather than sucking up water and keeping the paint wet, is actively hydrophobic. Water just slides right off of it, and the paint, when mixed with water, beads up on the surface.

Now, this might be the intended result that I'm looking for, but when I've used butcher paper, it worked a lot better - the paint stayed wet and didn't bead up, and the paper was wet but not soaked. I'm thinking that the reason why my wet palette isn't working right is because I'm using non-stick parchment paper, which I understand has a silocone/wax coating that keeps it non-stick, but also keeps it from absorbing water.

I went on a shopping trip last night trying to find parchment paper that was non-stick, but didn't have any luck. I was thinking about picking up a wet palette from an art store, but I've heard that the pores are too big for miniature paint, especially when thinned.

Anybody have any idea as to what I'm doing wrong?

You can get a huge pack of palette paper form Michaels' or AC Moore or Amazon really cheap. Just cut to fit your palette.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 16:57

darnon: Nov 8, 2009

Even that paper intended for wet palettes instructs to be boiled to prep it for use.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 17:30

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

darnon posted:

Even that paper intended for wet palettes instructs to be boiled to prep it for use.

Please source your quotes. I have never seen any palette paper that needed to be boiled first, nor have I ever boiled any. You can use hot water to prep it, but I never have, and have never had any issues.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 18:45

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

Darren MacLennan posted:

So, I have a question about wet palettes.

I'm making a wet palette out of some Reynolds brand parchment paper - the non-stick kind - and a sandwich container, and I'm not getting the results that I want. Specifically, the paper, rather than sucking up water and keeping the paint wet, is actively hydrophobic. Water just slides right off of it, and the paint, when mixed with water, beads up on the surface.

Now, this might be the intended result that I'm looking for, but when I've used butcher paper, it worked a lot better - the paint stayed wet and didn't bead up, and the paper was wet but not soaked. I'm thinking that the reason why my wet palette isn't working right is because I'm using non-stick parchment paper, which I understand has a silocone/wax coating that keeps it non-stick, but also keeps it from absorbing water.

I went on a shopping trip last night trying to find parchment paper that was non-stick, but didn't have any luck. I was thinking about picking up a wet palette from an art store, but I've heard that the pores are too big for miniature paint, especially when thinned.

Anybody have any idea as to what I'm doing wrong?

Saturate the paper within the container then drain out excess water. If you're using grocery store parchment paper that should be enough. Some water will continue to bead.

And Masterson wet palette pallet explicitly says to put it in boiling water before use.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 18:47

Ayn Marx: Dec 21, 2012

Awuuuuuuuu

# ? Mar 8, 2017 18:55

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

^^ Drill those barrels!

Painted up some Neophytes for my Black Templars. The transfers hosed up a little bit but I'm real happy with their helmets:

And the whole squad:

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:03

Cannibal Smiley: Feb 20, 2013

SRM posted:

Love that effect. Chaos Warrior heads?

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:31

Ayn Marx: Dec 21, 2012

SRM posted:

^^ Drill those barrels!

I knew this was coming :v

I tried drilling a few barrels, but it ended up looking poo poo because I'm too dumb to properly drill in the center

Ayn Marx fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 8, 2017

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:41

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

mango sentinel posted:

Saturate the paper within the container then drain out excess water. If you're using grocery store parchment paper that should be enough. Some water will continue to bead.

And Masterson wet palette pallet explicitly says to put it in boiling water before use.

The Masterson Web site posted:

1) Prepare the Sta-Wet Acrylic paper by placing a sheet of Masterson�s acrylic paper in the sink and turn on the HOT water. Do not use the sink stopper; let the water drain over the paper and out of the sink.. Allow the hot water to run directly onto the paper for 45-60 seconds. The paper will become semi-transparent.

Just sayin'.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:46

Chill la Chill: Jul 2, 2007; Don't lose your gay

I've only ever run my masterson's wet palette paper under hot water.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:48

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Darren MacLennan posted:

Love that effect. Chaos Warrior heads?

You know it! Shaved the horns off and cut off the nubs where they go into the necks and they fit perfectly.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 20:53

with a rebel yell she QQd: Jan 18, 2007; Villain

Remind me whats the safest method for separating resin super glued to plastic. Should I just throw them in the freezer overnight and try to break?

# ? Mar 8, 2017 21:50

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

with a rebel yell she QQd posted:

Remind me whats the safest method for separating resin super glued to plastic. Should I just throw them in the freezer overnight and try to break?

Super Clean will break that bond, but it will take a couple of days. Also, you'll lose your paint job, which you may or may not be concerned about.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 21:53

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# ? Jun 3, 2024 20:12

with a rebel yell she QQd: Jan 18, 2007; Villain

berzerkmonkey posted:

Super Clean will break that bond, but it will take a couple of days. Also, you'll lose your paint job, which you may or may not be concerned about.

Non painted stuff so not a problem but I'm in the EU tho which makes SuperClean an issue. I use a degreaser called Well Done to remove paint but that softens up resin somewhat if left in there for longer periods.

# ? Mar 8, 2017 22:03

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