|
Cross posting here and the Plumbing Thread for advice on this little project I've been toying with: I want to go with the last, lower design. Any suggestions for the piping? How many pieces am I looking at here? Anything that could be added or changed?
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2017 23:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 06:44 |
|
|
What are you trying to build? A table with handles made out of pipes?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 00:44
|
|
|
A foot stool- I was thinking of putting a bottle opener on it 
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
My house is from 1947, with plaster and lathe walls. I have a section of wall in my kitchen, about 2' wide, that I'd like to install some mounts to hang pots and pans from. However, the only stud in that space is off-center in it, only about 6" from the corner. Absent some kind of wall hook that can be drilled into a stud but has a cantilever extending across the wall that I can hang a pan from, will molly bolts work? Would that support enough weight to use to hang pans? Just aluminum stuff, no cast iron or anything like that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 01:08
|
|
|
Professor Shark posted:A foot stool- I was thinking of putting a bottle opener on it No padding or cushion top?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 14:26
|
|
|
I also wanted it to work as a step stool if need be, though I'm concerned that the wood and handles would make it top heavy. I was tossing around the idea of filling the empty piping with sand to compensate, but then I'd be looking at a very heavy stool.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 14:48
|
|
|
Phanatic posted:My house is from 1947, with plaster and lathe walls. I have a section of wall in my kitchen, about 2' wide, that I'd like to install some mounts to hang pots and pans from. However, the only stud in that space is off-center in it, only about 6" from the corner. Absent some kind of wall hook that can be drilled into a stud but has a cantilever extending across the wall that I can hang a pan from, will molly bolts work? Would that support enough weight to use to hang pans? Just aluminum stuff, no cast iron or anything like that. Molly bolts on a plaster walls should be good for about 20lbs. If you know where the lathe is and pre drill, you can also use wood screws to get a little more hang weight
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 15:51
|
|
|
Professor Shark posted:I also wanted it to work as a step stool if need be, though I'm concerned that the wood and handles would make it top heavy. I was tossing around the idea of filling the empty piping with sand to compensate, but then I'd be looking at a very heavy stool. How tall would it be vs it's width/length? Top heavy might not matter if it's twice as wide as high.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 16:58
|
|
|
Phanatic posted:My house is from 1947, with plaster and lathe walls. I have a section of wall in my kitchen, about 2' wide, that I'd like to install some mounts to hang pots and pans from. However, the only stud in that space is off-center in it, only about 6" from the corner. Absent some kind of wall hook that can be drilled into a stud but has a cantilever extending across the wall that I can hang a pan from, will molly bolts work? Would that support enough weight to use to hang pans? Just aluminum stuff, no cast iron or anything like that. You could mount a board, say 10-12" wide to that stud, center it, put a nice roundover and finish on it, and then hang hooks off that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 17:50
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:You could mount a board, say 10-12" wide to that stud, center it, put a nice roundover and finish on it, and then hang hooks off that. Maybe get someone to do some nice routing along the edges?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 22:29
|
|
|
Professor Shark posted:I also wanted it to work as a step stool if need be, though I'm concerned that the wood and handles would make it top heavy. I was tossing around the idea of filling the empty piping with sand to compensate, but then I'd be looking at a very heavy stool. I feel like the top mounted handles would get in the way for both a step stool and foot rest.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:How tall would it be vs it's width/length? Top heavy might not matter if it's twice as wide as high. I was thinking ~12" tall and ~20" wide for sitting purposes/taking into account the handles, not sure about width but at least 11" Atticus_1354 posted:I feel like the top mounted handles would get in the way for both a step stool and foot rest. Yeah I've thought about them being a tripping hazard as well. I was planning on trying to get them low enough for fingers but not enough for toes or feet, but I'm not sure if that's possible.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 10:27
|
|
|
Professor Shark posted:I was thinking ~12" tall and ~20" wide for sitting purposes/taking into account the handles, not sure about width but at least 11" Make the seat thicker & mount them on the sides.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 14:13
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Make the seat thicker & mount them on the sides. Yeah, that's what I'd recommend. You could also mount them to an "apron" (sideways board) that's then screwed to the seat. Also you probably only need one handle.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
Any polymer clay junkies around? I've been digging back into miniature sculptures and it's a messy learning curve, since you can do so much with the stuff. I'm making charms right now, but mostly as practice so I can make box dioramas. Dabbling in mask and lantern building, but nothing worth showing off yet. I'm trying to figure out: * reliable clear resins that won't melt the clay, or kill me with fumes (need it for water bits, mostly) * internal structure materials: I'm using aluminium foil, wire, and some balsa wood bits, but the clay is poo poo at making those parts stick together. I'm trying to make buildings without wasting a ton of clay on the internal parts, but I'm not sure what glues would hold balsa together and still be bakeable. Suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 01:48
|
|
|
I'm trying to make an oxidized solution as found in this guide here. I bought the fine steel wool, tore it up into bits, and have it in a large wide-mouth glass mason jar with a metal lid. It's been sitting in there for a week, and even though I shake it every day, nothing's happening. What can I do to speed up the oxidation process?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2017 17:00
|
|
|
I've got a newish forced hot air furnace in my basement (I think installed in 2013?), is there such a thing as 'retrofitting' an AC unit onto it? It'd be a lot easier then window units, especially the living room/kitchen/dining area is kind of open (raised ranch.)
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 03:52
|
|
|
Pictures of the layout would be nice, but, yeah, you should be able to add an A-coil in a plenum to the top (I assume you have an updraft unit) of your furnace. If possible get the same make as your furnace. You'll have to have a sheetmetal piece fabricated between your ductwork & the new plenum. Plus: piping in/out refrigerant lines, buying a condensor unit for outside & wiring it, etc. etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 04:11
|
|
|
Okay, on a scale from 1 to "BULLDOZE IT" how bad off am I? My wife and I recently bought a 100+ year old house (built in 1910). The house was constructed well for the time and is in overall really good shape. It was fairly well maintained. The previous owners did a lot of renovations. However they split and things seemed to have fallen to the wayside for a lot of the house. My primary concern is the structure of the house, namely the joists and beams. When they redid the front porch and kitchen (on the back), they replaced a lot of the joists and sistered up the beams. They also put in a whole lot of struts under the floor, more than I've typically seen. The other thing they did is it looks like they put a 6x6 beam in the center (between the other beams) for support which probably stopped a lot of the creep and floor sagging. However, the center of the house hasn't been really touched, and the joists all have varying degrees of dry rot, as well as the beams as it seems. Would it be as simple as getting lumber (probably going to be nominal sized) and sistering up all of the joists? Or is it going to take ripping out the floors and doing major surgery on the house? Out of everything else, that is the worst part of the house, and that's mostly because it's old. I also understand that there is going to be a lot of work that has to be done to this house as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 05:39
|
|
|
Looking for some SUPER bright white indoor LED light bulbs (not flood lights.) Is there a unit of measure or scale used for LED brightness?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 07:13
|
|
|
lol internet. posted:Looking for some SUPER bright white indoor LED light bulbs (not flood lights.) Lumens. Also choose your colour temperature carefully based on what you plan to do in the space.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 08:07
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, on a scale from 1 to "BULLDOZE IT" how bad off am I? Lots of pictures will be needed. Did you have any structural survey done to back up what needs doing and why? "Lots of dry rot" sounds terrible, was your bank aware the house is rotten when they lent you the money? Pixelante posted:
Try polymer clay jewellery forums as well, there is a ton of info there. What problem are you having with aluminum foil? That's a standard go-to and generally not problematic.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 08:12
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Pictures of the layout would be nice, but, yeah, you should be able to add an A-coil in a plenum to the top (I assume you have an updraft unit) of your furnace. If possible get the same make as your furnace. You'll have to have a sheetmetal piece fabricated between your ductwork & the new plenum. Cool, thanks. And yeah, it's an updraft. Since it's a raised ranch, the ceiling area of the basement and its windows are above grade, so it should be super-easy (relatively) to run lines out to a condenser. I'm trying to decide if it's better to install an AC coil and condenser and attach it to the existing ductwork, or get a ductless unit for the living room/kitchen area, and then just keep using our window unit for the bedroom.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 14:42
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Cool, thanks. And yeah, it's an updraft. adding central air will probably run you at least $4K, ductless should run you under 2 for a single inside head-- and will probably provide better comfort for the living space, as heating only ducts tend to be undersized for cooling.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 15:30
|
|
|
So I installed a ceiling fan in my house a few months ago, and the LED light is just brutally harsh, and I don't use it. Even on it's dimmest setting its just too harsh. The issue is that it's one of those built in light plates, like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/17-Watt-LED-Assembly-13431102702300/206186401 The fan itself is this one:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Daylesford-52-in-LED-Brushed-Nickel-Ceiling-Fan-SW1478BN/206441695 I have a couple options, I don't think I return the fan since it's been more than 90 days since I bought it, but:
 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-LT56-6-in-White-Recessed-All-Purpose-LED-Retrofit-3000K-LT560WH6930R/206844380 But then I have to install cans right? i figure I'd like to install one at each end of the room and dim them or something. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 16:28
|
|
|
It's not that unsafe to swap to a socket and your chosen (led) bulb, if you're not a total Muppet. I don't know how far you can disassemble it but if you can get to the back of the led circuit board (assuming it's not laminated into an aluminum heatsink) you can selectively cut traces to reduce the amount of working leds. This is a bit more work however and hard to undo 
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 17:35
|
|
|
Qwijib0 posted:adding central air will probably run you at least $4K, ductless should run you under 2 for a single inside head-- and will probably provide better comfort for the living space, as heating only ducts tend to be undersized for cooling. Yeah, but I imagine the installation is more involved/expensive for the ductless since it requires a big-rear end hole being cut into the wall, right? And then electrical run up to it as well...though I suppose I might be able to get it in through the attic. Whereas installing the coil onto a furnace is easier, since it's a basement where it's easier to run electrical, and just a couple of holes through the wall for the coolant?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 17:57
|
|
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:
Or just put a dab of opaque epoxy over half of the LEDs. Maybe they'll overheat and fail but oh well you were going to replace it anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 18:10
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:It's not that unsafe to swap to a socket and your chosen (led) bulb, if you're not a total Muppet. I can get the LED plate, it's totally removable. I was thinking maybe I can de-solder some of the LEDs, I'm an extremely skilled solderer, but I don't have an iron for small work at home. Maybe I'll see if I can find a globe that is large enough and I can see what I can do. I didn't know if it was an option. I think the issue is that the LED is way to directional, so there's like a spot light right above my couch. Maybe I'll pop the globe off and take it to a lighting store and see if I can find something that would match but give enough space for a couple warmer but not as bright LED bulbs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 18:11
|
|
|
Phanatic posted:Or just put a dab of opaque epoxy over half of the LEDs. Maybe they'll overheat and fail but oh well you were going to replace it anyway. Before going with epoxy, try using tape.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 18:11
|
|
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:I can get the LED plate, it's totally removable. I was thinking maybe I can de-solder some of the LEDs, I'm an extremely skilled solderer, but I don't have an iron for small work at home. Do you have a brulee torch with a screw on tip? These work great in a pinch.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, on a scale from 1 to "BULLDOZE IT" how bad off am I? Besides the joists and stuff you can see, consider that you're probably going to have rot or issues with your sill beams (or sill plates) as well, possibly exterior walls too. Sill beams especially are a lot harder to repair.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 18:56
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Before going with epoxy, try using tape. Yeah, I can cover a few and see how it seems and then attack it with an iron if it seems reasonable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 19:06
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Yeah, but I imagine the installation is more involved/expensive for the ductless since it requires a big-rear end hole being cut into the wall, right? And then electrical run up to it as well...though I suppose I might be able to get it in through the attic. it's also just a couple holes in the wall for the refrigeration and electrical with a ductless as well. Adding the coil and condenser to a furnace is probably a full day's work for two guys, ductless is one guy for an hour or two. In either case you need electrical run outside for the condenser.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Yeah, but I imagine the installation is more involved/expensive for the ductless since it requires a big-rear end hole being cut into the wall, right? And then electrical run up to it as well...though I suppose I might be able to get it in through the attic. That's what I did. In 2010, I think it ran me about $2000 for the condensor & A-coil, but I got a Goodman high-efficiency furnace package (total was about $3200, plus $200 to have a plenum adapter done at a metalworking shop, plus $300 & twelve cases of Bud to my neighbor, a licensed refrigeration mechanic, to braze in & charge up my system. Took me a full weekend. Even with baseboard-level ducts, I love my central A/C & operating costs are less than i thought.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 04:14
|
|
|
Phanatic posted:Or just put a dab of opaque epoxy over half of the LEDs. Maybe they'll overheat and fail but oh well you were going to replace it anyway. I had great success raising the color temperature and dimming under-cabinet 120V puck LEDS by folding up Post-It notes. I checked several times a day for a couple weeks, and even now I check 'em, but they never get hot.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 04:15
|
|
|
One Day Fish Sale posted:Besides the joists and stuff you can see, consider that you're probably going to have rot or issues with your sill beams (or sill plates) as well, possibly exterior walls too. Sill beams especially are a lot harder to repair. Yeah, I was afraid of this, and from what I remember they just covered the sill beam up with a 2x for support. I'll get under the house and take some pictures.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 05:14
|
|
|
I just picked up a used Jenn Air grill on OfferUp. It's in really good shape for being 10 years old. The ignition doesn't work, one of the burners needs to be replaced, and there's some minor rust on the grill grates. But the body is solid stainless and it came with a full tank of gas and a cover. Jenn Air has a lifetime warranty on these parts and are sending me new burners and grates even though I don't have the original receipt. So all I'm really on the hook for is a new ignition set. Here's my question - what is the best way to clean this thing? There's no grease, just a lot of baked on carbon and black dust. I'd like to avoid chemicals if possible. I was thinking a steam cleaner, but I'm having trouble finding one for rent. There are some $30-40 handheld ones on Amazon, but I don't know if they have the power. Or is my answer just a can of Simple Green BBQ cleaner and lot of elbow grease?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
I wonder if a pumice stone would work well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 06:44 |
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I just picked up a used Jenn Air grill on OfferUp. It's in really good shape for being 10 years old. The ignition doesn't work, one of the burners needs to be replaced, and there's some minor rust on the grill grates. But the body is solid stainless and it came with a full tank of gas and a cover. Jenn Air has a lifetime warranty on these parts and are sending me new burners and grates even though I don't have the original receipt. So all I'm really on the hook for is a new ignition set. Oven cleaner? Yeah it's a chemical
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 19:58
|
|