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The fuel filter is in that area. Has it ever been replaced? I went through two fuel pumps in my 02 Focus. There was no real warning with either of them, just failure to start from one, then the other began working intermittently while I was on I-35 near Salina, KS. Fortunately I was actually in view of the dealership sign and they were able to get one that day.
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Mar 6, 2017 06:09
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Godholio posted:The fuel filter is in that area. Has it ever been replaced? Not by me, and the carfax history doesn't mention it. e: I watched a youtube video and checked amazon and changing the filter seems like a cheap and simple DIY job. Anything I should know? cephalopods fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Mar 6, 2017 |
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Mar 6, 2017 06:22
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It's a straightforward job, but the screw will probably be a pain in the rear end and the plastic clips could be brittle. Brittle or not, they won't want to move. Have a few rags handy, and keep your face out of the way...gas will come out.
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Mar 6, 2017 07:20
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2005 Jeep Liberty Limited (3.7L V6) The High Pressure Power Steering hose is leaking where it connects to the power steering pump. When I pulled the hose, I noticed that the O-ring was annihilated (stretched, torn up, etc.). I'm fairly certain I've cleaned out all the remaining bits/pieces. However, when I installed the new hose and o-ring, it still leaks from the connector. Is it safe to assume that there's still maybe a small bit of old O-ring in the inlet causing the leak? While I'm aware that these hoses are known for only lasting 5 years, has anyone heard of the pump connector failing? I think my next step is going to be scoping the inlet and using metal picks to ensure all the O-ring bits are out. Any other suggestions? I'm honestly at the point where I'm thinking about just pulling and replacing the power steering pump.
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Mar 6, 2017 13:00
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cephalopods posted:2006 Focus hatchback, black. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/ford-focus-2005-ford-focus-hard-startsputtering Filter, pressure regulator on top of engine or weak pump. First two are cheap and easy so you might just do both. They guide checking the regulator in thread. Pump isn't too expensive but requires dropping the tank. So if you can spend a planned Saturday that you run it dry and someone to help lift it looks easy
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Mar 6, 2017 13:59
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I'm soon going to be transitioning from a 170 hp FWD car to a 373 hp RWD. Anybody got any driving tips they would like to share? I've done some reading and watched a couple videos in order to not end up like the typical Mustang fishtailing into a curb peeling out of a cars and coffee. Other than some light test driving, I have no experience with RWD vehicles. I figure I will try and slowly ease into it, perhaps find an autocross event nearby to test the handling in a somewhat controlled environment.
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Mar 7, 2017 23:12
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IronDoge posted:I'm soon going to be transitioning from a 170 hp FWD car to a 373 hp RWD. Anybody got any driving tips they would like to share? I've done some reading and watched a couple videos in order to not end up like the typical Mustang fishtailing into a curb peeling out of a cars and coffee. Other than some light test driving, I have no experience with RWD vehicles. I figure I will try and slowly ease into it, perhaps find an autocross event nearby to test the handling in a somewhat controlled environment.
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Mar 7, 2017 23:29
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That slow leak I had was, as I speculated earlier, a very considerate nail.
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Mar 8, 2017 00:53
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IronDoge posted:I'm soon going to be transitioning from a 170 hp FWD car to a 373 hp RWD. Anybody got any driving tips they would like to share? I've done some reading and watched a couple videos in order to not end up like the typical Mustang fishtailing into a curb peeling out of a cars and coffee. Other than some light test driving, I have no experience with RWD vehicles. I figure I will try and slowly ease into it, perhaps find an autocross event nearby to test the handling in a somewhat controlled environment. 2 weeks into owning my first rwd I hit some sand on a corner and understeered into a tree. Don't be like me. Watch for sand and gravel.
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Mar 8, 2017 01:28
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InitialDave posted:Get someone to give you at least semi-formal training at a track or skidpan, or just find an open space away from people, animals, or overactive vegetation, and have a good tit about. Yep, you just need to go calibrate your rear end with some low risk seat time.
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Mar 8, 2017 03:56
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Longshot but I have a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L. The 4 button keyless entry fob (not a switchblade key type, just a clicker) died and the replacements are way more expensive than I expected them to be (~$100+ refurbished). The model is 41777 and the FCC ID is KPU41777, but I noticed that the chipset inside of the clicker says 41805-501-40n. I looked around and saw that I can get a model 41805/KPU41805 fob, which looks identical, for about $18 new. Is there any chance that this would work with my car or does it have to be the same FCC ID?
post hole digger fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Mar 8, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 04:16
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my bitter bi rival posted:Longshot but I have a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L. The 4 button keyless entry fob (not a switchblade key type, just a clicker) died and the replacements are way more expensive than I expected them to be (~$100+ refurbished). The model is 41777 and the FCC ID is KPU41777, but I noticed that the chipset inside of the clicker says 41805-501-40n. I looked around and saw that I can get a model 41805/KPU41805 fob, which looks identical, for about $18 new. Is there any chance that this would work with my car or does it have to be the same FCC ID? Go to eBay type 2009 Mazda 3 fob hit search enjoy the rest of your evening. (You can get a replacement for $15-20 bucks)
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Mar 8, 2017 04:52
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my bitter bi rival posted:Longshot but I have a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L. The 4 button keyless entry fob (not a switchblade key type, just a clicker) died and the replacements are way more expensive than I expected them to be (~$100+ refurbished). The model is 41777 and the FCC ID is KPU41777, but I noticed that the chipset inside of the clicker says 41805-501-40n. I looked around and saw that I can get a model 41805/KPU41805 fob, which looks identical, for about $18 new. Is there any chance that this would work with my car or does it have to be the same FCC ID? Maybe a stupid question, but did you change the battery?
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Mar 8, 2017 04:56
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everdave posted:Go to eBay type 2009 Mazda 3 fob hit search enjoy the rest of your evening. (You can get a replacement for $15-20 bucks) The cheapest one which is the same model as mine is this one, which is $98: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-MAZDA-...WdXi5yj&vxp=mtr The rest of these have different model and FCC numbers than mine. Every eBay listing or Amazon item description I've seen says the keyless fobs must have the same FCC ID and model # in order for the fob to work with your car. Are you saying that that isn't the case and I can use a different fob with my car? The only ones that turn up with the same FCC ID on eBay cost $98+. $15-20 is about what I wanted to spend so if thats the case, great. Godholio posted:Maybe a stupid question, but did you change the battery? Yeah, to a brand new one, although I suppose I could try another battery on the off chance that one was no good. I tried using the fob after changing the battery, and then I also tried to reprogram the car with the new battery in the fob. No luck in either case.
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Mar 8, 2017 05:35
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Yes you are looking at OEM one the repro Chinese poo poo will be fine just pick one where they have sold a ton. And have good feedback. It will be fine. Bonus if it says has programming instructions although you can look that up on YouTube. Ignore the FCC stuff the reason it does t match is it's not oem
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Mar 8, 2017 05:54
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Raluek posted:That sounds like a wicked vacuum leak, but I don't know subarus very well so I don't have a suggestion for where to start looking. Just an update here, I don't have any photos but I got some of the intake tract taken apart and what it ended up being was about a fist-size chunk of air filter broke off and had the throttle stuck partway open. I didn't even know this was a thing that could happen.
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Mar 8, 2017 16:58
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My 2002 chevrolet impala will not start with either of my keys. There is no engine noise or reaction at all when I turn the key to the "start" position, but when the key is turned to "on" I get dash lights, and "SECURITY" flashes on the message panel. From a bit of reading this seems to be a somewhat common passlock issue with impalas. I do not have the tools or expertise to fix anything even remotely complicated. Stupid question: anyone know if there is there a dirt simple fix for this I can do myself, can this be fixed at any service center, or is this probably a deeper problem? What's the best course of action here?
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Mar 8, 2017 21:27
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bennyfactor, the air filter damage sounds like something that your bogging and popping and backfiring could have caused, which then caused the stuck throttle issue. So at least you've got the "my engine wants to run free" issue fixed, but the initial cause may be still lurking. Hopefully if it's still around, it won't beat up a new air filter, just the old one, and hopefully it will have the decency to set a relevant DTC so you have something to work with next time. In my case on my 00 and 01 Foresters, it was P0171 (IIRC) which just told me the ECU couldn't add enough fuel to get all the oxygen out of the exhaust stream, I wasn't sure why. A short while later P0301 and P0302 popped up as well, which combined with the sudden running on only two cylinders led me to replace the coilpack, solving all 3 codes and the odd bogging and backfiring. Don't throw parts at it based on what I just said, but do be on the lookout for similar behavior and any DTCs that may show up to explain it.
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Mar 8, 2017 22:01
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Update: I read that the passlock issue sometimes temporarily fixes itself if you wait awhile for whatever reason, so I gave it another try today and it worked. However when I parked I noticed water leaking in the wrong place    so that's two things to get fixed now.
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Mar 9, 2017 02:00
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Is that not just exhaust condensation?
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Mar 9, 2017 02:03
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Yeah, water dripping from exhaust components isn't necessarily cause for concern. Water is a natural byproduct of burning hydrocarbons, and especially when the exhaust components are still relatively cool in comparison to the exhaust gasses it tends to condense and leak out wherever it can.
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Mar 9, 2017 02:05
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Yep, ignore that water "leak", nothing is wrong
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Mar 9, 2017 02:12
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It's not coming out of the exhaust pipe--it's leaking from the opposite side of the muffler, and it looks like it is slightly rusted open at that spot. It wouldn't worry me if it was just coming out of the exhaust pipe, but this is not a spot where I'd expect to see water leaking. Does that actually not matter?
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Mar 9, 2017 02:12
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The fact that the muffler's integrity is compromised means you'll have to replace it eventually, but that's pretty much a given with non-stainless steel exhaust components. Otherwise, exhaust gasses pass through the muffler too and water can condense and drip out of it if there's a way for it to get out. The water itself isn't a problem.
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Mar 9, 2017 02:26
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Drill a hole in the lowest point of the muffler. Worst case result is it sounds better.
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Mar 9, 2017 02:30
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Or it will whistle
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Mar 9, 2017 02:42
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Digirat posted:It's not coming out of the exhaust pipe--it's leaking from the opposite side of the muffler, and it looks like it is slightly rusted open at that spot. It wouldn't worry me if it was just coming out of the exhaust pipe, but this is not a spot where I'd expect to see water leaking. Does that actually not matter? The new muffler I had put on my Jeep had a small factory-made puncture on the underside, in that exact location, (I assume) to allow water/condensation to drip out instead of sitting inside rusting. I think you're good mano.
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Mar 9, 2017 03:27
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Most mufflers have a drain hole on the bottom front facing side of the muffler. It makes sense it's a little rusty there.
Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 03:41
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Woops drat phone.
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Mar 9, 2017 03:41
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Kastein, man, thanks for the info. We'll see if it sets another engine code it probably will, and I'll post back in here with it when it does.
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Mar 9, 2017 04:21
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Digirat posted:My 2002 chevrolet impala will not start with either of my keys. There is no engine noise or reaction at all when I turn the key to the "start" position, but when the key is turned to "on" I get dash lights, and "SECURITY" flashes on the message panel. From a bit of reading this seems to be a somewhat common passlock issue with impalas. I do not have the tools or expertise to fix anything even remotely complicated. Stupid question: anyone know if there is there a dirt simple fix for this I can do myself, can this be fixed at any service center, or is this probably a deeper problem? What's the best course of action here? For the time being, to get it to start, put the key in, turn it to run (but do not try to start the car - just turn it to the position where the dash lights, windows, etc all come on), and leave it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, it should start. You can try it after 10, but if it doesn't try to crank, you'll have to turn the key off, then turn it back on, and wait a full 30 minutes. After that, next time you drive it, you'll probably have to let it sit like that (key on, without attempting to start) for 10 minutes. I believe the daytime running lights come on anytime the ignition is on unless you have the parking brake set as well, so you'll want to set the parking brake to keep from running down the battery. If that doesn't turn off the daytime running lights (which are just the headlights on your car, if I remember right), you'll probably want to make sure your battery is good and charged, or maybe even have a booster pack or another battery + jumper cables handy to keep it from running down. It's a very common issue on most late 90s-mid 00s GMs. There's a bypass you can do (I believe the easiest version is just cutting a wire), or you can just replace the ignition switch. The bypass will require doing the 30 minute re-learn anytime the battery is disconnected, and involves cutting some wires (also leaves you with a "service vehicle soon" message). If you do replace the ignition switch, you'll have to do the 30 minute re-learn as well (disconnect the battery while replacing the switch, btw), but that should be the only time you have to do it. The version of Passlock your car uses doesn't use a chip of any kind in the key. Instead, it has 2 ignition switches. The very tip of the key turns the second ignition switch way at the back. GM also runs only 5 volts through both switches instead of the more traditional 12 volts; when the switch gets gunked up over the years, that little 5 volts can't arc through the dirt and grease and make contact anymore. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 08:24
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The trick your talking about with bypassing the pass key is putting in a (i think) 24 ohm resistor on that wire.
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Mar 9, 2017 13:38
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So my friend bought a used 2004 civic SI and he's had both the battery and check engine lights on since he got it. No part of the charging system is faulty, the car drives fine except it burns way more than it should, sometimes it revs really high. He found out it had been re-keyed and just recently a shop told him the ECU VIN doesn't match the car VIN. So, I'm thinking the ECU hasn't been set up for his car and is expecting the donor car still and throwing codes because of it. If that's the case, how do you fix it?
autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 01:51
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Believe that you have to go to the dealer for that one, & they throw some device on it, and key in the VIN, & sorta re-flash it.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:19
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Breakfast Feud posted:So my friend bought a used 2004 civic SI and he's had both the battery and check engine lights on since he got it. No part of the charging system is faulty, the car drives fine except it burns way more than it should, sometimes it revs really high. He found out it had been re-keyed and just recently a shop told him the ECU VIN doesn't match the car VIN. So, I'm thinking the ECU hasn't been set up for his car and is expecting the donor car still and throwing codes because of it. If that's the case, how do you fix it? I don't know new century Honda but I do know 90s hondas and it doesn't matter somewhere on the interwebs this exact issue has been discussed diagnosed and solved on some ricer Honda forum somewhere. I'd spend a night googling first
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Mar 10, 2017 06:07
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Breakfast Feud posted:So my friend bought a used 2004 civic SI and he's had both the battery and check engine lights on since he got it. No part of the charging system is faulty, the car drives fine except it burns way more than it should, sometimes it revs really high. He found out it had been re-keyed and just recently a shop told him the ECU VIN doesn't match the car VIN. So, I'm thinking the ECU hasn't been set up for his car and is expecting the donor car still and throwing codes because of it. If that's the case, how do you fix it? Does his title match the cars vin or the ecus vin? 
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Mar 10, 2017 06:47
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PainterofCrap posted:Believe that you have to go to the dealer for that one, & they throw some device on it, and key in the VIN, & sorta re-flash it. That makes sense, thanks! Cop Porn Popper posted:Does his title match the cars vin or the ecus vin? Title matches the car's vin, which doesn't match the ECU, and neither of which match the motor.
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Mar 10, 2017 13:07
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Breakfast Feud posted:Title matches the car's vin, which doesn't match the ECU, and neither of which match the motor. Your friend better hope none of those VINs come back as stolen. Sounds like a theft recovery car - best case. Those cars are/were the most stolen Hondas for a long time; everyone I've known with an EP3 has had it stolen at least once, and generally found it completely stripped the last time it got stolen. Thankfully the K series engine is common as dirt now, so thefts have gone down a bit. Preoptopus posted:The trick your talking about with bypassing the pass key is putting in a (i think) 24 ohm resistor on that wire. Yeah, and that will get rid of the service vehicle message. You may still have to do a re-learn anytime the battery is disconnected. Snipping one of the wires has the same effect, except you have to do a random re-learn occasionally.
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Mar 10, 2017 15:30
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So after getting in my first ever fender-bender on my birthday a couple months back, today I noticed a nice big series of scrapes on the front passenger door, from I guess some rear end in a top hat in a parking lot this week.  I haven't had the bumper damage fixed yet, would it be possible to get both issues fixed together for a single deductible? I have full coverage with Geico.
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Mar 10, 2017 20:24
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FBS posted:So after getting in my first ever fender-bender on my birthday a couple months back, today I noticed a nice big series of scrapes on the front passenger door, from I guess some rear end in a top hat in a parking lot this week. No. Your deductible is per incident. Otherwise people would just trash cars and get it repaired under 1 deductible when turning in leases. You may have uninsured motorist property damage with a lower ded for the parking lot.
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Mar 10, 2017 20:27
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