|
Baronjutter posted:Finally put glazing and window treatments in the warehouse. I seriously love this.
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 23:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 12:13 |
|
|
ExtraNoise posted:I seriously love this. I want to put lighting in the overhang above the loading dock, think it will look cool.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Finally put glazing and window treatments in the warehouse. If you squint a little, it looks real.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
Two more from the trial batch. I think they're beginning to look okay. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 01:34
|
|
|
Mister Kingdom posted:If you squint a little, it looks real. It looks like a good place to work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 03:17
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:The tiniest war criminals! Nice little nazis there. I was going to ask if that was the old Airfix one but then I noticed the box in the background, so I'll just say good luck with painting that glazing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 14:25
|
|
|
Sigh... my quest for a good, airbrushable, sandable primer continues. After reading a lot of positive comments about it, I picked up a trio of Badger's Stynylrez (black, white, gray) off of amazon recently. When they arrived, they are loving chunky style. The medium and the pigments & whathaveyou have completely separated an no amount of shaking, stirring, or profanity will get them to combine again. When I poured it out onto a paper towel, it looked like I'd poured sandy water through a sifter. Chunks of pigment sitting in a pile and the thin liquid medium spreading across the towel. I emailed Badger's customer "care" address and have received precisely fuckall from them. So, gently caress you, Badger. gently caress you Stynylrez. [/rant] I typically prime with Tamiya from the rattle can or Testor's flat black lacquer. Both are sandable fairly quickly but fumes, overspray, and wastage are rampant. I have used Vallejo's gray primer which airbrushes well, but rolls into little jagged sausages when you try to sand it. Is there an airbrushable, relatively low-fume, sandable primer out there?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
Mr.Surfacer 1000/1500 ticks all the boxes except the no-fume bit, being laquer based, but is by far the best primer i know of*. Leaves a very fine and smooth layer to work from, but is also durable, sandable and very grippy. Just my opinion, but if you want to work on a surface after applying primer, a solvent based one will prob be better by default. Acrylics don't like being interfered with as much. *Disclaimer, not updated my projects in I really should restart my old builds. There is a lot of cool stuff posted, but not enough Ma.K itt. alcyon fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Mar 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 19:33
|
|
|
Unkempt posted:Nice little nazis there. I was going to ask if that was the old Airfix one but then I noticed the box in the background, so I'll just say good luck with painting that glazing. Yeah, box is dated 1998. My wife got it for me probably in like 2006 or something. Been on a shelf in the closet ever since. I have been layering very thin coats on it and it seems to be going OK... it's flat paint and I want to avoid brush strokes so it's a matter of putting the paint on thick and letting it level itself and then dry down. The first couple coats had some difficulties with surface tension but subsequent coats seemed to lay on OK. It wants me to mix black green and dark gray, but I don't have an airbrush or a reliable way to portion paint ratios, so I've been putting a base coat of black green over black and then I will do basically a couple wash coats of the gray and see how that looks. Trying out a liquid mask too:  That canopy turned out alright but the front canopy is a goddamn nightmare. I'm going to probably have to start over from scratch. The instructions say thinner coats of the mask are harder to peel so I sort of glopped it on in multiple coats. Turns out there's a happy medium because the thick portions separated from the canopy too easily while I was cutting it. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 20:30
|
|
|
alcyon posted:Mr.Surfacer 1000/1500 ticks all the boxes except the no-fume bit, being laquer based, but is by far the best primer i know of*. Leaves a very fine and smooth layer to work from, but is also durable, sandable and very grippy. Just my opinion, but if you want to work on a surface after applying primer, a solvent based one will prob be better by default. Acrylics don't like being interfered with as much. Seconding this. Mr. Surfacer 1200/1500 have always given me consistently good results and they cure faster than any other primer i've tried when thinned with Mr. Leveling thinner. It's also the only primer I've ever used that can survive the wear from Gunpla joints. The fumes are the only impediment to me using it exclusively, since I don't currently live in a place with good access to ventilation. If I did, though, I'd throw out every other primer I have. I'm using Stynylrez (the most annoying name to type out) and while it's way better than most acrylic primers it still takes a long time to cure (well, for an acrylic) and it won't survive scratches that well. Actually, the Oxide-Red (really more an orange color) Stynylrez is way stronger than the Grey Stynylrez - I wonder if that's the result of Badger not having good enough quality control. In any case, it's perfectly fine for static models like planes and ships, but not nearly durable enough for Gunpla or tanks (if you want to move the turret around and go pew pew).
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2017 02:03
|
|
|
Last one in the figure spam.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2017 03:12
|
|
|
Looks to me like you've basuically got cloth down now. Now onto poo poo like leather, and then the infinite mountain that is "painting faces".
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2017 05:01
|
|
|
I'm not sure these signs are tiny enough.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 03:43
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I'm not sure these signs are tiny enough. why do you hate cars 
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 04:26
|
|
|
One way for cars, two way/shared for bikes. Probably technically need a dashed yellow line running along the right for the opposed bike lane. Typical dutch solution to narrow roads. Finally have some grade crossing signs. On a street like this in real life a simple sign would never do, it would almost certainly have lights and a bell. That's a bit beyond my skill level though.  This picture came out bad and generally these signs are at the start of a block/intersection but I figured there's a busy enough few industrial driveways to put one in and remind people it's not a parking lane. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 07:22
|
|
|
I like the uneven pavement. Just needs some sprouts of grass popping up between the cracks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 13:30
|
|
|
The pavement patching in front of the hydrant from a repair is a fantastic touch.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 14:13
|
|
|
You don't have bicycle symbols painted with stencils every few dozen meters in your bike lanes? We have them in Toronto and drivers still forget that there's a bike lane.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 16:15
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:You don't have bicycle symbols painted with stencils every few dozen meters in your bike lanes? We have them in Toronto and drivers still forget that there's a bike lane. Having nearly been hit by somebody while driving a very large van because they decided they were going to use the parking lane to pass me until I started turning right at the intersection I`m pretty sure they have not forgotten it is a bike lane
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 17:03
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:You don't have bicycle symbols painted with stencils every few dozen meters in your bike lanes? We have them in Toronto and drivers still forget that there's a bike lane. I tried to laser cut a stamp with a tiny bike symbol on it but could never get good enough results. White ink is tricky and at this scale the stamp just didn't have enough detail. I'd probably need something like dry-transfer decals.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 19:35
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:You don't have bicycle symbols painted with stencils every few dozen meters in your bike lanes? We have them in Toronto and drivers still forget that there's a bike lane. Snohomish County, Washington State: barely visible school zone signage half obscured by moss and blackberry, shiny new bike lane signs at every cross street. Our priorities are in line.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 21:04
|
|
|
Maybe the children should get on bicycles, that way they will be alive and muscular.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2017 21:08
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Finally have some grade crossing signs. On a street like this in real life a simple sign would never do, it would almost certainly have lights and a bell. That's a bit beyond my skill level though. But is it beyond your budget?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
Cartoon posted:http://www.azatrax.com/n-scale-crossing-gates.html I'd probably go that route, and I'm no longer 100% terrified of wiring. Wouldn't really do any proper detection though since the drat thing would be lit up all the time as my trains looped around. Probably a fun button mounted on the fascia that makes it light up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 01:16
|
|
|
The Locator posted:The pavement patching in front of the hydrant from a repair is a fantastic touch. Seriously, this. Really great work Baronjutter.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 22:59
|
|
|
The GITS hands exploding to type scene, but instead its Baronjutter maintaining his microtown.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2017 23:05
|
|
|
An update on the crap plane. I built a jig to add struts. Afterward I ending up moving one of the lower wings because it wasn't straight. Otherwise I thought it turned out well.  I did a base coat of silver mainly to test the sanding job. I'll paint it later. There are still a few flaws in it ( I realized to late I put the aileron in upside down) but it's getting there.  
Darth Brooks fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Mar 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 05:20
|
|
|
The finish on your jig looked so similar to the finish of the kit that I assumed it was a part of the plane.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 06:09
|
|
|
The jig was made from a foam box from Braum's
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 06:22
|
|
|
I don't know if there's a good crapkit candidate lurking in there, but Sprune Brothers is having a sale.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 16:56
|
|
|
Finished this ages ago and forgot to post it up. The tiny Avia 534b in 1/144th scale.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 19:39
|
|
|
Darth Brooks fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 23:40
|
|
|
Holy poo poo. It's a plane.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
Surprise! I did a google search for Merlin Models. Most of them are reviews talking about how bad the plane. Best one was "An ancient short run injection moulded kit, consisting of parts that might look vaguely like bits of TSR2 in poor light or if you have cataracts. There are absolutely no redeeming features in this box of horrors, and it should be avoided at all costs. In 2011 a shop in the US was reportedly selling off stock of these at $4.95 each; they were still overpriced. Having said that, it is at least marginally easier to build than the Contrail monstrosity (below) and the shapes are a little better too, so it gets one star for that. This is not a recommendation of any kind - avoid!" I tried adding decals but my spare ones and the ones from the kit were all old and unusable except for one star. It's funny that these were high end tech in 1918 and would have been a lot more famous had the war continued. Darth Brooks fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Mar 12, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 00:10
|
|
|
BaronJutter, I found you something in 1/150, I hope that's the correct scale
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
Maybe it's just me but those decals really tie the whole thing together, it looks like an entirely different plane.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 02:37
|
|
|
I have a friend with that kit. It's laser cut cardboard and extremely labour intensive to make, but it's nice and it's also believably big. But I ain't got no room for no car parks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Maybe it's just me but those decals really tie the whole thing together, it looks like an entirely different plane. I was thinking exactly the same thing
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 07:06
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I have a friend with that kit. It's laser cut cardboard and extremely labour intensive to make, but it's nice and it's also believably big. But I ain't got no room for no car parks. I'm imagining your table having a big pit full of wrecked cars the table's inhabitants couldn't be assed to park.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 07:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 12:13 |
|
|
Has anyone used the Mr Color Acrysion line? Or know how that line's airbrush solvent mixes with tamiya? I'm a bit reluctant to get the normal Mr Color line or to use lacquer thinner with tamiya since I'm going to be painting indoors.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2017 09:54
|
|
