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What's the deal with oil changes now and just how bad are the generic places trying to scam me? I've got a 2014 Mazda 3 and was told it has to take synthetic and that it would be good for 5-6k miles. Oh and the price was $70 after tax. That seems like really low miles to me for synthetic oil but I know nothing.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:00
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Spikes32 posted:What's the deal with oil changes now and just how bad are the generic places trying to scam me? I've got a 2014 Mazda 3 and was told it has to take synthetic and that it would be good for 5-6k miles. Oh and the price was $70 after tax. That seems like really low miles to me for synthetic oil but I know nothing. Do what it says in your owners manual.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:01
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Also, synthetic should be good for 10k miles unless you're in harsh conditions.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Do what it says in your owners manual. No, do this.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:28
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This is going to be a pretty drat specific question. Coworker has a Malibu with the 2.4. The rubber coupler that seals the engine cover (which is part of the air intake, WTF GM) to the throttle body has ripped on her car. You can't get the coupler from GM; you have to purchase the complete engine cover (at over $200). This is the part (not my photo, found on another forum)  I'm striking out trying to find it by itself. Anyone know if that coupler will work from a different model? I know some people swap the 2.4 throttle body onto the 2.2 for a little extra air flow sometimes, and manage to keep the stock air intake. I'm thinking the 2.2 coupler (which is a lot easier to find) might work? Next time I see her (in a few days) I may try the coupler from my car, but that won't be something I can leave on her car. Just wondering if I should bother snagging a few different ones from the junkyard. Pick n Pull only has 2 Malibus of her generation (08-12), and they're at yards that are an hour away, and they don't list which engine they have. The previous generation had a 2.2 instead of the 2.4. What doesn't help is the engine cover has to come off for oil changes. I'm betting that's how hers got ripped in the first place. Alternatively, if someone randomly happens to know the outer diameter of the 2.2 vs 2.4 throttle bodies... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 01:30
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I've paid about 100 for a synthetic oil change. You aren't getting gouged as much as you think.
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Mar 11, 2017 01:48
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The price on the oil I didn't feel too bad about. They were in line with other mechanics in the area. It was mostly the 'get it changed in 5k miles' that I was super suspicious of. And right to be! My manual says oil changes every 10k on synthetic. Is there any possible reason they would cut that in half besides getting me to come in twice as often?
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Mar 11, 2017 02:12
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Spikes32 posted:The price on the oil I didn't feel too bad about. They were in line with other mechanics in the area. It was mostly the 'get it changed in 5k miles' that I was super suspicious of. And right to be! My manual says oil changes every 10k on synthetic. No, that's exactly the reason. They typically recommend 3.5k on petroleum oil, though it can easily go 5k.
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Mar 11, 2017 02:30
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Spikes32 posted:Is there any possible reason they would cut that in half besides getting me to come in twice as often? I can't think of a reason, unless they didn't really put synthetic in. They just want more of your money.
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Mar 11, 2017 02:42
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FBS posted:So after getting in my first ever fender-bender on my birthday a couple months back, today I noticed a nice big series of scrapes on the front passenger door, from I guess some rear end in a top hat in a parking lot this week. Nope, as noted: however, it'll never be cheaper to have it repaired & painted than while it's in the shop getting the prior issue fixed. Ask the shop.
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Mar 11, 2017 03:49
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Spikes32 posted:What's the deal with oil changes now and just how bad are the generic places trying to scam me? I've got a 2014 Mazda 3 and was told it has to take synthetic and that it would be good for 5-6k miles. Oh and the price was $70 after tax. That seems like really low miles to me for synthetic oil but I know nothing. $70 is about what most shops here charge for a synthetic oil change. I would suggest learning to do it yourself (and keeping receipts w/mileage records in case you have to prove you've done oil changes, if a warranty issue comes up). It'll run you about $30-40 to do it yourself using Mobil 1 and a decent oil filter if you go to Walmart, a little more if you go to a parts store. Less with other brands of oil. The Walmart by me has 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 synthetic for $26, and the oil filters I use are $3-5 (plus a box of disposable gloves now and then). Once you've done it a few times, you can knock it out in 15 minutes. 20 if the filter is a pain to get to. You'll have to drop a bit of cash on parts up front - jack stands (or ramps), an oil catch pan, some disposable gloves. I would suggest a floor jack as well. This is assuming your oil filter is under the car - I'm able to change the oil on my car by just cranking the wheel all the way to the right, throwing the catch pan under, and removing the drain plug. Filter is up top on mine, so I don't have to get under the car (or lift it at all). And as others said, follow the owner's manual for oil changes (for mileage and oil type). If you don't drive much, change it at least once a year. Follow the severe service schedule, if there is one, if you take a lot of short trips or live in a climate with extreme heat or cold. FWIW, I drive a lot, and tend to change it every 9k or so (which is around when the change oil message appears on the dash - winds up being every 8-10 weeks for me). Been doing it that way for 100k (got it with 60k, has 164k now), and it still runs fine and doesn't use any appreciable amount of oil between changes. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 06:15
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STR, its entirely likely its the same throttle body with a different inside diameter, but the same od. I'd give it a shot.
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Mar 11, 2017 06:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:$70 is about what most shops here charge for a synthetic oil change. This is all amazing advice and I appreciate it. Amusingly I actually have the jack stands. The reason I can't is because i park in a spot surrounded by other cars (no garage) and my association is really strict on car work.
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Mar 11, 2017 14:53
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Spikes32 posted:association is really strict on car work.  fascists!
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Mar 11, 2017 15:08
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My girlfriend and I are turning in her lease next month ('15 Optima) and will be solely driving my car, an '09 Vibe. I want to put a backup camera on it, but looking on Amazon there is a huge variance in price point and a lot more options than I expected. Does anyone have a recommendation? I'm fine with spending up to $150.
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Mar 11, 2017 18:24
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For some reason my dealer is actually a good deal for an oil change. I think it's $35 for synthetic. That doesn't include tire rotation which I get done at oil change times. Rivals the cost of what it would take for me to do it myself (I have no tools and no garage, so screw that). Schiavona posted:My girlfriend and I are turning in her lease next month ('15 Optima) and will be solely driving my car, an '09 Vibe. I want to put a backup camera on it, but looking on Amazon there is a huge variance in price point and a lot more options than I expected. Does anyone have a recommendation? I'm fine with spending up to $150. I would also like a recommendation, no garage and tight street parking is annoying w/ no camera. It's very hard to gauge to-the-inch using mirrors alone and I refuse to purposely touch bumpers so I end up having to hop out. Are you going to take it to an installer like Best Buy? Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 19:38
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Spikes32 posted:This is all amazing advice and I appreciate it. Amusingly I actually have the jack stands. The reason I can't is because i park in a spot surrounded by other cars (no garage) and my association is really strict on car work. I gotcha. I live in an apartment myself, but it's the only apartment I've ever lived in that didn't prohibit car work in the lease (but they do state if a wheel is off of the vehicle, they may tow it after 24 hours). I still just do most work at night though; if I have to do it during the day I'll go over to the boat parking and do everything between boats.  Cop Porn Popper posted:STR, its entirely likely its the same throttle body with a different inside diameter, but the same od. I'd give it a shot. That's what I was hoping to hear, thanks. I've seen people bolt the 2.4 TB onto the 2.2 on Cobalts and Ions, and still use the same intake (but they need a small adapter for the different bolt pattern). It's easy enough to pop off the intake on mine that I can just compare them next time I see her. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 21:15
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Anyone got any tips for taking a Ford hood insulation cover off (2011 Edge)? One of my wiper sprays is clogged and I want to take it off to give it a proper cleaning, but its under the insulation. The first clip/peg I tried to remove shattered into pieces. The others don't feel much sturdier.
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Mar 11, 2017 22:58
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Since I took my car into the mechanic's a couple weeks ago I've been getting an intermittent smell of gas when the cabin (not necessarily engine) is cold. All they did was oil and adjust the belts, but 30,000 miles ago when I took it in for maintenance around the last interval for a fuel pump they replaced it without me asking, so I'm wondering if someone maybe started swapping it before they noticed that wasn't part of the service, and didn't fasten it back up completely. Does that sound like it could be it? I'm going to bring it in to have them look at it either way, but intermittent problems are a bitch to diagnose.
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Mar 11, 2017 23:20
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Eau de MacGowan posted:Anyone got any tips for taking a Ford hood insulation cover off (2011 Edge)? One of my wiper sprays is clogged and I want to take it off to give it a proper cleaning, but its under the insulation. The first clip/peg I tried to remove shattered into pieces. The others don't feel much sturdier. Heat basically makes them brittle. Best bet is to find a source for them (probably online) and replace them. I think I ended up with a bag of 100 of Chryler's clips because it was the same price as a 10pack from a normal retailer.
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Mar 11, 2017 23:21
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I am failing at youtube. I have a 1987 Ford F-150. My headlamp assembly has melted were the bulb plugs. I want to replace it but strangely removal of the assembly is not covered in the chiltons guide just bulb replacement. Any suggestions on a video tutorial?
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Mar 11, 2017 23:40
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That should be covered in any repair manual...haynes or chiltons. Odd that it's not on youtube. But it should just be a couple of screws behind the assembly. Edit: It's also probably almost identical to every F-series for 20 years on either side.
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Mar 12, 2017 04:02
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4 bolts. 2 out back, 2 where the grille mounts. http://imgur.com/a/6NHjX Pix. one with one circle has the other bolt below it. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 04:05
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Godholio posted:Edit: It's also probably almost identical to every F-series for 20 years on either side. 86 and older had sealed beams that were removed from the front.
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Mar 12, 2017 04:13
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Godholio posted:That should be covered in any repair manual...haynes or chiltons. Odd that it's not on youtube. But it should just be a couple of screws behind the assembly. Yeah my chiltons only has bulb replacement. The light assembly is universal from only 87-91ish before the style changed. Thanks for the bolt info. I'll see what I can do tomorrow.
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Mar 12, 2017 04:37
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LingcodKilla posted:The light assembly is universal from only 87-91ish before the style changed. The way it mounts remained the same well into the 2000s though (at least 2003), if I remember right. The cab and front clip sheet metal (under the body panels) remained the same for over 30 years. The photos cursedshitbox posted are from his own 1990, which uses the same housings as your 87.
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Mar 12, 2017 04:52
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The way it mounts remained the same well into the 2000s though (at least 2003), if I remember right. The cab and front clip sheet metal (under the body panels) remained the same for over 30 years. Oh excellent. I was afraid I would have to remove more but I'll just have to search around for those 4 bolts.
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Mar 12, 2017 05:25
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Spikes32 posted:The price on the oil I didn't feel too bad about. They were in line with other mechanics in the area. It was mostly the 'get it changed in 5k miles' that I was super suspicious of. And right to be! My manual says oil changes every 10k on synthetic. Some vehicles recommend 5k on synthetic. It's probably company policy to say the lowest possible mileage. I always got synth in the Tundra I drove for work a few years back and Jiffy Lube always put 3k on the sticker. We ignored that and just drove our trucks until "Service Needed" popped up, at the 10k mark.
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Mar 12, 2017 08:43
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My Prius had been on full synthetic with the previous owner and I fully plan on driving it to 10k. 
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Mar 12, 2017 09:15
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Eau de MacGowan posted:Anyone got any tips for taking a Ford hood insulation cover off (2011 Edge)? One of my wiper sprays is clogged and I want to take it off to give it a proper cleaning, but its under the insulation. The first clip/peg I tried to remove shattered into pieces. The others don't feel much sturdier. There all going to break. Go to a parts store with what's left of one and they will match you up. Probably a good bet your nozzles will break of you mess with them too much. Dealer only so be carefull.
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Mar 12, 2017 17:53
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Preoptopus posted:There all going to break. Go to a parts store with what's left of one and they will match you up. Probably a good bet your nozzles will break of you mess with them too much. Dealer only so be carefull. Or try hitting up a salvage yard to score spare nozzles. You're bound to get lucky with, like, every third one. I mean it; that's what I did with the '01 Intrepid, although I had no luck getting hood pad clips. You can also pick up a ridiculous quantity of them (pad clips) on eBay for cheap.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:02
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The rubber coupler that seals the engine cover (which is part of the air intake, WTF GM) to the throttle body has ripped on her car. If the other suggestions don't help: 3M Window Weld. It's my new favorite duct tape.
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Mar 12, 2017 23:42
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2007 Toyota Corolla LE I'm replacing the brakelight bulb. I've heard that you need to add dielectric grease to the replacement bulb's connectors prior to inserting it into its new socket. Truth, or bullshit? Here's the old bulb, if it helps any: 
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Mar 13, 2017 03:54
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Generally bullshit on anything remotely modern. The factory certainly didn't see the need to use it.. On something like a 60s or 70s car, where the headlight sockets get exposed to water anytime you splash through a puddle by a bus stop, it wouldn't hurt to use it. But if you don't see evidence of it from the factory, don't bother. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 03:57
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He said Corolla yes use grease, it is 1980's tech.
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Mar 13, 2017 04:25
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Using fancy petroleum jelly to seal off electrical contacts from water is so unbelievably ghetto, as in I literally cannot believe it.
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Mar 13, 2017 04:47
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Probably not. I've seen little to no difference in bulb life with people using the grease unless they have an assembly that allows moisture in. If you had corroded connections I'd say glob it on, but eh. In reality, bulb grease is an upsell, and one that I disagree with on principle. Its largely unneeded, but the guys in corporate who care about the counter jockey selling it haven't worked in a store in probably 15+ years and don't listen when told this. If you buy it, use it. If not, don't worry about it. Edit: in reality, a set of nitrile gloves would be the much, much better option for a useful upsell for halogen bulbs. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 04:51
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Like $4 is a lifetime supply of the stuff. Use it, don't use it, whatever.
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Mar 13, 2017 04:54
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Probably not. I've seen little to no difference in bulb life with people using the grease unless they have an assembly that allows moisture in. If you had corroded connections I'd say glob it on, but eh. In reality, bulb grease is an upsell, and one that I disagree with on principle. Its largely unneeded, but the guys in corporate who care about the counter jockey selling it haven't worked in a store in probably 15+ years and don't listen when told this. If you buy it, use it. If not, don't worry about it. I had an AutoZone store manager try to strong arm me into buying it by pulling out a box full of shattered bulbs and telling me they all burned out from "overheating" and that "bulb grease" would keep them from overheating or ever burning out. Some of the bulbs were even HIDs. I made his district manager's life hell over that one. OTOH, when I picked up new brake pads the other day at Advance, I asked about getting a packet of grease for the caliper slides. He pulled one off the rack at the counter, handed it to me with the brake pads (which were paid for online), and told me no charge. I'm sure his DM wouldn't like that too much, but it certainly went a long way toward making sure I'll be buying a lot more parts from that particular store. No pushy upselling = happy STR. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 06:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I had an AutoZone store manager try to strong arm me into buying it by pulling out a box full of shattered bulbs and telling me they all burned out from "overheating" and that "bulb grease" would keep them from overheating or ever burning out. Some of the bulbs were even HIDs. Say it with conviction and he'll believe you.
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Mar 13, 2017 06:27
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