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evenworse username posted:Delighted to see that there's a model for a Crocodile. Want a big flamethrowing tank. Most commonwealth platoons were organised the same way, any differances usually are a few riflemen more. If you want to do it the groggy way (is there any other?) just look up the TO&E for a Canadian rifle platoon and drop it in for British.
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Mar 13, 2017 21:56
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evenworse username posted:Delighted to see that there's a model for a Crocodile. Want a big flamethrowing tank. I've been using 1/48 scale armor because I'm "one of those guys". (The 1/56 stuff looks too small! Also I really enjoy the model-making aspect of the armor, so I go all-in on detail.) It changes your selection, opens up a few doors but closes a few others (like the Crocodile). I think Canadians use British rules, yeah.
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Mar 13, 2017 21:56
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zokie posted:Most commonwealth platoons were organised the same way, any differances usually are a few riflemen more. If you want to do it the groggy way (is there any other?) just look up the TO&E for a Canadian rifle platoon and drop it in for British. Between that, and minutely researching the right markings &c. for these little guys, I'm already doomed, aren't I?
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Mar 13, 2017 22:55
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tallkidwithglasses posted:I'll have to check my book at home to confirm, but from what I remember, pike blocks + sleeves of crossbow/musket are treated as a single unit when they're on the battlefield to capture how they were commanded on the battlefield. There's an order to make a hedgehog, for instance, where the pikes form a square and the muskets surround them. long-rear end nips Diane posted:I believe you're right in that it would be 9 units, because each block of pikes is a unit, and each wing of shot is a unit, so you'd get 9 in total. Googling backs this up, but just like in Black Powder, there are disagreements on exactly how large each one of those units should be, both in model count and frontage size. OK TY I will revert the needful tomorrow. The "personality" of BP has swung me a little back towards larger-scale, fewer miniatures: I keep looking at the big BP/P&S boxes and thinking: I'm sure someone at Salute would trade me half and half - and then I could use that army directly in my KoW games too. Phi230 posted:My CoC rulebooks and bits just game in yeaaaahhhh boiiiii M8 you're gonna have a blast - what made you go with CoC over BA (in general) ? long-rear end nips Diane posted:I mean, if that's what you're into, come to the world of moderns and let me spread the good word of Fistful of TOWs where each man or tank can actually represent one man or tank if you're sufficiently crazy dedicated. oh god no - I just assumed it was par for course for historicals since it would appear that any thought of a points or army list is anathema.
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Mar 13, 2017 23:12
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I just bought both CoC and BA lol. Just gonna make my lists conform to CoC/historical authenticity anyway and play BA with those lists.
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Mar 13, 2017 23:13
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evenworse username posted:Between that, and minutely researching the right markings &c. for these little guys, I'm already doomed, aren't I? I've been in your place and it's not that bad. This site will be a huge help: http://www.canadiansoldiers.com/vehicles/markings/unitsignsinfantryunits.htm http://www.canadiansoldiers.com/vehicles/markings/formationsigns.htm http://www.canadiansoldiers.com/vehicles/markings/vehiclemarkings.htm Dig around, there's a ton of amazing information buried everywhere.
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Mar 13, 2017 23:14
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The only annoyance I've had so far with making my BA lists more historically accurate is that in BA, transports cost points and are on the table, when in real life they'd be far away from the shooting, and that accurate US rifle squads should be 12 men and the boxes of winter infantry I'm using only come with 10 so I have to buy more goddamn minis.
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Mar 13, 2017 23:28
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What is a good scale for the age of rifles? I wanna get into American Civil War and Nappy Wars but 28mm seems kinda small in scope for such conflicts
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Mar 14, 2017 00:32
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if 28mm is too small for you, go with 54mm  i get that you mean larger scale battles. just play along
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Mar 14, 2017 00:38
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Phi230 posted:What is a good scale for the age of rifles? I wanna get into American Civil War and Nappy Wars but 28mm seems kinda small in scope for such conflicts 6mm is the scale of kings. Play division level games on a 4x4 table and have corps fight each other on 8x4.
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Mar 14, 2017 00:59
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Leaning toward 28mm though. How big can fights get in lets say Black Powder or should I downsize.
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Mar 14, 2017 01:09
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Phi230 posted:Leaning toward 28mm though. How big can fights get in lets say Black Powder or should I downsize. BP as a rules system scales up pretty good but if you're playing it at 28mm you'll need a giant table to play. The examples in the rule book are played on something absurd like 12x6 because the Perry bros have a ridiculous gaming dungeon.
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Mar 14, 2017 01:12
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tallkidwithglasses posted:BP as a rules system scales up pretty good but if you're playing it at 28mm you'll need a giant table to play. The examples in the rule book are played on something absurd like 12x6 because the Perry bros have a ridiculous gaming dungeon. I just built a 8x4 table for wargaming but poo poo yeah I'll build 12x6 in the future. 28mm it is.
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Mar 14, 2017 01:14
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I quickly gave up on Black Powder in 28mm because the amount of mini's and space needed was far beyond what anyone in our group was interested in committing to. Sharp Practice 2 seems more up our alley, but I haven't gotten around to introducing it yet.
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Mar 14, 2017 01:17
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Phi230 posted:I just built a 8x4 table for wargaming but poo poo yeah I'll build 12x6 in the future. 28mm it is. You're insane but I'm down with it. Have fun!
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Mar 14, 2017 01:19
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tallkidwithglasses posted:You're insane but I'm down with it. Have fun! probably gonna be another like 5 years lmao before I even get to that stage but by god I will build it
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Mar 14, 2017 01:20
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Enentol posted:I've been in your place and it's not that bad. Hey thanks for this, now I gotta practice my freehand maple leaves I guess. e: God's death, the Canadian army never used the Crocodile! e2: or maybe they did, poo poo's complicated Giant Tourtiere fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Mar 14, 2017 01:20
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tallkidwithglasses posted:There's an order to make a hedgehog, for instance, where the pikes form a square and the muskets surround them. I just got hard. I'm in the same CoD/BA boat, starting with some US paras because it seemed like a smaller investment before I get some Nazi's. I've got some CoD scheduled at adepticon in a couple of weeks, and I'm hunting for some demo action in BA and Saga, and a little Sharpes Practice. Oh, and battletech, if I feel like it. But really, I've been eyeing that Pike and Shorts for a number of reasons. Might have to sneak one of those box deals.
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Mar 14, 2017 01:47
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I've been using Sharp's Practice and Black Powder to do Revolutionary War stuff, but this thread is totally selling me on Napoleonics. I'm gonna have to do something like a British/Portuguese army to stand out in this thread full of Frenchmen.
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Mar 14, 2017 04:27
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evenworse username posted:Hey thanks for this, now I gotta practice my freehand maple leaves I guess. The only units that used the Chruchill Crocs were British- primarily 31st Army Tank brigade with 141 Regiment Royal Armoured Corps (Buffs) (Normandy onwards), 1st Fife & Forfar Yeomanry (September onwards) and 7th Royal Tank Regiment (Rhine Crossing onwards)., and 25th Armoured Engineer Brigade in Italy (51st RTR). You can probably find some sort of instance where the Canadians were supported by Crocs, especially during assaults on fortified positions (Scheldt campaign, or Operation Veritable during the Rhineland campaign - there may also cases during Normandy). You're unlikely to see Canadians in Italy fight alongside Crocs, though, because I Canadian Corps was withdrawn around January/Feb to reinforce 21st Army Group in Northwest Europe. tomdidiot fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Mar 14, 2017 06:52
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Another Late Roman Cavalryman!   Two more and I'll have my first unit of Hearthguard for SAGA: Aetius & Arthur.
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Mar 14, 2017 07:20
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those romans are fuckin rad
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Mar 14, 2017 07:33
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evenworse username posted:Between that, and minutely researching the right markings &c. for these little guys, I'm already doomed, aren't I? Looks like they used the same organisation 43-45 which was: Platoon Commander, pistol Sergeant, rifle (Radioman and Runner, usually removed in CoC) Light Mortar Team 3 crew, one sten gun Sections 1-3 Rifle Team JL 6 Riflemen Bren Team Bren, 2 crew Rifleman Unsure what the section leaders had, should be rifle or sten gun. The platoon commander later got a sten, probably the same for the platoon sergeant. Found this at bayoner strenght,you get to calculate force rating:)
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Mar 14, 2017 08:57
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Phi230 posted:I just built a 8x4 table for wargaming but poo poo yeah I'll build 12x6 in the future. 28mm it is. Class Warcraft posted:I quickly gave up on Black Powder in 28mm because the amount of mini's and space needed was far beyond what anyone in our group was interested in committing to. Sharp Practice 2 seems more up our alley, but I haven't gotten around to introducing it yet. Can you elaborate on this please? It would appear realistically one needs only to differentiate small, medium and large units and as such you could get away with four, eight and twelve 28mm figures each at minimum, in theory. Kings of War-style unit basing would give you something like eight, twelve and twenty four figures per unit for a greater headcount - and I'm not clear how much more work that is than a WHFB/KoW type army? Unless there's some kind of inherent fragility which means the units are disposable, and you need more of them for an equivalent game size/length? Honestly I haven't played enough of either... Having said that, long-rear end nips Diane posted:I've been using Sharp's Practice and Black Powder to do Revolutionary War stuff, but this thread is totally selling me on Napoleonics. I'm gonna have to do something like a British/Portuguese army to stand out in this thread full of Frenchmen. I'm reading Sharpe's Tigers along with Campaigns of Napleon at the moment and while in general the period is quite fascinating I couldn't be less enthused about Brits or French. Especially those Warlord brits - they look as dull as dish water. It's all about Russians, Prussians, Austrians, Bavarians IMO. DiHK posted:I've been eyeing that Pike and Shorts for a number of reasons. Might have to sneak one of those box deals. One thing 'for' P&S is that nobody but the groggiest of renaissance era grogs is going to know if your armies should be on opposite sides of the war - so seems fairly straightward to use them in literally any other regiment based wargame.
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Mar 14, 2017 08:58
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Phi230 posted:What is a good scale for the age of rifles? I wanna get into American Civil War and Nappy Wars but 28mm seems kinda small in scope for such conflicts
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Mar 14, 2017 12:18
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Southern Heel posted:
The flexibility for other games is one of the draws, but I'll probably just wait till I can get a starter box. I've got enough projects now between ww2 and saga. I'd like to build an 1815 Prussian army too but they seem to be very limited model wise. The osprey, iirc, showed their infantry to consist of landwhehr, regulars, skirmishers and a very small number of grenadiers. British companies seem to give Blucher the short end of the stick. Idk why... it's not like they turned Waterloo into a decisive action or anything. Nifara posted:So what's the deal with the new Flames of War? Stats on disposable cards? Is that right? In the free FoW book I got there are no stat cards. Just instructions for using the v3 theater books along with an errata booklet. Supposedly stats will be on cards for mid war stuff when they release it. I doubt they'd be disposable. I'm not paying too much attention until I see some field results with the new rules. Somebody asked about ona bushi models, Perry might have some. Lil Jonas would know more. DiHK fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Mar 14, 2017 13:53
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zokie posted:Looks like they used the same organisation 43-45 which was:  thank you!
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Mar 14, 2017 13:58
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Oh, another quick P&S/BP question - when it comes to hand-to-hand combat it says 'all units that are interlinked by enemy units they are fighting count as the same engagement'. Does this mean all units on both sides of an 'engagement' aggregate their rolls, saves and subsequently break test results? Or just that you must 'finish' all the individual rolls, saves and break-tests of that engagement as a block before moving on? In a scenario where I have two enemy units (1 and 2) fighting three friendly units (A, B, C) - do I aggregate the attacks, casualties and break test results? Or test individually? I.e. A vs 1, then B vs 1, then B vs 2, then C vs 2?
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Mar 14, 2017 15:18
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"Southern Heel" posted:
The issue we encountered is that black powder seems to have been designed around using larger formations with attention towards maneuver and it's abstraction of combat. The game just didn't work well with only 3-4 units in our experience, and no one in our group was willing to build and paint 80-100 minis in order to play it. In sharp practice on the other hand, one box of minis is enough to play, so that was an easier sell for us.
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Mar 14, 2017 15:26
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Southern Heel posted:Oh, another quick P&S/BP question - when it comes to hand-to-hand combat it says 'all units that are interlinked by enemy units they are fighting count as the same engagement'. My understanding is that it's the latter, but multi combat is pretty rare since most of the time you'll have one unit fighting and the others providing support so you can break the other side.
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Mar 14, 2017 15:39
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^ Right, because the combats are individual it's better to use support to win decisively than have a huge melee. Class Warcraft posted:The issue we encountered is that black powder seems to have been designed around using larger formations with attention towards maneuver and it's abstraction of combat. The game just didn't work well with only 3-4 units in our experience, and no one in our group was willing to build and paint 80-100 minis in order to play it. In sharp practice on the other hand, one box of minis is enough to play, so that was an easier sell for us. This is a totally fair point. It's taken me two evenings so far to paint up four miniatures - very easy to say 'Oh I'll just go for 28mm big battle games' and alot harder to actually paint them. I'm thinking I may just attempt it though - even if I end up speed painting and dipping: there's just a kind of heft to the models that I grew up with which I'm just not feeling with the 6mm stuff I picked up. Speaking of picking things up, I just bought this little set (to compare and contrast with my Russian Jagers for 'feel') and have a small question about painting these guys: https://store.warlordgames.com/products/royalist-parliamentarian-command  What kind of difference in regimental flags is the chap talking about? And is it fair to assume while there might be common blazes of colour (i.e. red, blue, yellow) among a regiment, that the regiment itself wouldn't be identically clothed?
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Mar 14, 2017 17:27
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Southern Heel posted:What kind of difference in regimental flags is the chap talking about? And is it fair to assume while there might be common blazes of colour (i.e. red, blue, yellow) among a regiment, that the regiment itself wouldn't be identically clothed? It's referring to those regiments being dressed virtually identical but differentiated by the flags they marched behind- it was pretty common in the early modern period to have opposing sides end up with similar uniforms, so for gaming you can just model one unit of pike or whatever and print out two flags and you suddenly have roundheads and cavaliers modeled. And yeah, that's absolutely a fair assumption re: colors- when it was a noble or wealthy person commissioning a regiment they'd often get uniforms when the troops were first raised, but months/years of campaigning with erratic resupply and decentralized logistics (and lots of looting if they won battles or got near towns and cities) would have ended up with the troops wearing all kinds of stuff. The total nonstandardization is one of the draws of the period, imo. As for the scale of your army, I personally think BP and P&S really shine at smaller scales- you can paint guys a lot faster, you get a lovely sense of bulk in your regiments, and you can fit a big battle on a small table, which is nice if you don't live somewhere that can easily support a big ol table. All the rules and painting for the games come from former games workshop designers and artists and they carry their biases with them, but the system translates extremely gracefully to other scales if you want to go down that route. That said, if you really enjoy the modeling and painting, 28mm holds a lot of detail and can be really spectacular. It's just a slog to get an army raised. This was a lot of words so here's more of my BP mans: 
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Mar 14, 2017 17:50
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If you check my post history, you can probably still see our pics of some BP games in 18mm, with about 3 brigades of 3-4 battalions, plus a little cavalry and artillery, on each side. We found the ranges work pretty well if you cut them down to 2/3 of the ones in the books. That fits a 6x4' table perfectly. Edit: gently caress it, have a quote: Fish and Chimps posted:
Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Mar 14, 2017 19:13
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HUGE FUCKOFF POST INCOMING
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18mm!?
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Mar 14, 2017 19:44
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Yes, though it's probably closer to 20mm. You know, heroic scale
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Mar 14, 2017 19:47
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18mm is essentially scale-creeped 15mm.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:01
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Wow, those do look really really good. Four per base and nine bases per unit? That's alot of mans... Blue Moon miniatures are 18mm right? I'm looking at them now - they're within 25% cost-wise to the Perry 28mm stuff: pre:Cav Cannon Foot Total # Units 2 3 5 10 Pendraken 20.48 4.95 25.6 £51.03 Bluemoon 44.64 6 51.6 £102.24 Perry-Mins 70.4 27 34.4 £131.8
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Mar 14, 2017 20:34
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You are going to have to post how toy did that gunsmoke
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Mar 14, 2017 21:03
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Southern Heel posted:Wow, those do look really really good. Four per base and nine bases per unit? That's alot of mans... 8 bases per unit. We originally were going to do 6 bases, but one of the other guys thought the squares looked silly that way and convinced us to expand to 8. I've never forgiven him, but it does look cool. He was a manager at our FLGS, so he got us great deals on Man at War minis, but they didn't have the more exotic regiments you need for Napoleonics, but luckily Newline Designs French, Prussians and Brits almost matched the size perfectly. zokie posted:You are going to have to post how toy did that gunsmoke It's just these https://store.warlordgames.com/products/volleyfire-lights and regular cotton.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:07
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I forgot to write about our first CoC campaign game. We played the first scenarios of Operation Martlet from 2FL, and I have to say, it was a frustrating experience, mostly because of our own inexperience. We had to look up a lot of rules, and we had basically no idea how to advance on fortified MG positions, so I wouldn't recommend the campaign as one of the first things you want to do when playing CoC. That said, the rules are still cool, and any excuse to set up a great looking table is good in my book.     
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Mar 15, 2017 10:21
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