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powderific posted:Ooooor like two weeks ago: https://m.dpreview.com/news/9035761523/tamron-announces-70-200mm-f2-8-and-10-24mm-f3-5-4-5-updates And my order just canceled. Thanks for this!
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Feb 24, 2017 06:06
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mAlfunkti0n posted:What's a good but won't bankrupt me 70-200 2.8 for Nikon? Mounting it to a d750. I'm going to plug my own post in the sales thread, I have a well-used gray market 70-200 in good shape over there.
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Feb 24, 2017 07:16
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red19fire posted:I'm going to plug my own post in the sales thread, I have a well-used gray market 70-200 in good shape over there. Thanks! I am going to hold off for now and see what the new Tamron turns out to be. Also, I need to stop spending until I get some other stuff paid off. Edit: I thought about it more and I cant resist it. Ive got this 70-300 here though, I kinda think I should sell it now .. but I tend to be a hoarder and don't want to. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 15:29
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Has anyone here had much experience with monopods? I've kinda bought a super telephoto, I can handhold it but it gets a bit tiring after a bit and I knew I would probably have to get a decent monpod to pair up with it.
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Feb 26, 2017 10:22
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I bought one for my 120-300 2.8 and quickly learned how much I hated it. I'm sure with practice one could get good, but I found just hand holding was so much quicker for any action shots and a tripod was better for almost everything else. Some of the bird shooters may have enough practice to give some tips, but I hated the drat thing.
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Feb 26, 2017 15:15
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few tips A) Don't put a ballhead on it unless you want to decide after 10 minutes that monopods are garbage because you foolishly put a ballhead on it. Get a simple tilting head or (if you're a fancy man with 10k$ lenses) a gimbal head. B) Make sure it's long enough , especially when you have the lens tilted up (and thus the camera down) otherwise your back will decide you hate monopods from squatting down to see through the VF C) Make sure the extension locks on it are sturdy, but easy to use quickly.
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Feb 26, 2017 19:07
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Raikyn posted:Has anyone here had much experience with monopods?
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Feb 26, 2017 19:19
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Raikyn posted:Has anyone here had much experience with monopods? I have a 350mm f/2.8 that absolutely requires a monopod. If you're over 6'0" tall I would stop in a store or two and try them out to make sure of what length will put your viewfinder at eye level. timrenzi574's points are well taken. Be sure it locks up well and whatever your camera + lens (plus grip or anything else) weighs, find a monopod rated for at least another couple pounds.
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Feb 27, 2017 04:27
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Looks like my cheap Yongnuo RF-603 triggers don't work with Sony camera... Any suggestions for cheapest triggers I can buy? Don't need something fancy just something to get my flashes off the camera and firing in manual mode.
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Mar 4, 2017 14:41
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ugh whatever jeez posted:Looks like my cheap Yongnuo RF-603 triggers don't work with Sony camera... Any suggestions for cheapest triggers I can buy? Don't need something fancy just something to get my flashes off the camera and firing in manual mode. if it's because your camera has that weird minolta/sony proprietary shoe, i think they make adapters to make them work with standard hotshoe stuff.
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Mar 4, 2017 17:30
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Actually, never mind!  I found out you can hack that trigger to work with Sony too. 1 resistor, little switch and some soldering and it seems to work fine. Saved me some money there.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecVNenuIQvg
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Mar 4, 2017 17:51
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I'm planning on renting some gear soon so i can try before I buy, of the rental sites in the OP is one better than the other?
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Mar 5, 2017 02:04
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Shrieking Muppet posted:I'm planning on renting some gear soon so i can try before I buy, of the rental sites in the OP is one better than the other? I'm a Lensrentals loyalist because I used them first, and they have an interesting blog. They've never done me wrong.
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Mar 5, 2017 14:23
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I always use them for pretty much the same reasons.
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Mar 5, 2017 17:28
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I've been shooting a ton of video with my D7000 lately, and while I'm pretty happy with the overall image quality, I'm not too stoked about my apparently constantly loving shaking hands. I'm hoping to find a way to keep things stable when I start moving around, preferably while still being able to pull focus, and I've got $200 right now to throw at the problem. I'm still figuring out what to look for in stabilizers, particularly given that I'm really trying for maximum creaminess in motion, but based on what I know so far this thing seems to check off most of my boxes. Except apparently it's pretty bad quality, and might fall apart, so...for reference, if I had infinite funds I'd be looking for something like this. Based on my budget and needs, does anybody know what a good buy might be here? And is this one of those cases where finding a way to stretch my budget will save nightmares and pricey upgrades down the line? Semi-related question: Is there any good reason not to go through Walmart/Amazon/Jet for camera gear? I'm also looking for babby's first prime lens right now--probably a 50mm, given that I'm shooting a ton of portraits and I hear that's a good lens for the purpose--and the prices on any of those sites seem better than what B&H has to offer, at least at the moment.
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Mar 8, 2017 15:51
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I'm interested in getting a camera specifically for video, mostly of my birds and other inconsequential things. (I'm not planning to become an internet superstar with it.) Just to have something more flexible than my phone camera, and definitely with longer focal length/decent zoom ability. My range is up to about €300. I've considered getting an additional Nikon DSLR to take advantage of my existing lenses (none of my DSLRs have video capability) but even a second-hand D3200 would be near the upper end of what I'd like to pay here. The DSLR option is also rather bulky. Otherwise I've looked a bit at camcorder-style cameras, and then compact cameras. I like the camcorder form factor, but don't know if any of the lower end of those are actually worth using. Any suggestions? nielsm fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Mar 8, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 17:04
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:I've been shooting a ton of video with my D7000 lately, and while I'm pretty happy with the overall image quality, I'm not too stoked about my apparently constantly loving shaking hands. I'm hoping to find a way to keep things stable when I start moving around, preferably while still being able to pull focus, and I've got $200 right now to throw at the problem. I'm still figuring out what to look for in stabilizers, particularly given that I'm really trying for maximum creaminess in motion, but based on what I know so far this thing seems to check off most of my boxes. Except apparently it's pretty bad quality, and might fall apart, so...for reference, if I had infinite funds I'd be looking for something like this. Anything that adds and distributes mass is going to help, it's just plain physics. That said, no rig (especially a Steadicam) is a panacea. There's a reason why despite incredible sensor stabilization advances, people still hire professionals for video — nothing beats knowledge and hours, if not years, of practice with your setup. You might want to try out a DIY project using some PVC pipes to see whether you like the form factor or not on the cheap. Another alternative is an electronic gimbal. They're a bit outside of your price range, and are quite fiddly, but the results you can get from them are tremendous (note that I didn't say anything about being easier than a shoulder rig — they're absolutely not). As per gear from places other than B&H/Adorama, etc — it's because these guys are extremely well reputed retailers (and authorized retailers for all the major brands, meaning you have a full manufacturer warranty). It doesn't really matter much for stuff like a shoulder rig, but a lot of people like the peace of mind knowing that their multiple thousand dollar purchase wasn't being thrown around by random warehouse guys who wanted to make space for their weekly floor hockey game. That said, Amazon also has the best return policy in the world, so it's not exactly a bad idea to go with them either. However, there's probably no risk for a shoulder rig, and you're probably saving a good chunk of money, so I don't really see it being much to mull over. On a side note, a D7000 is a DX body, meaning a crop sensor. A 50mm would be akin to a having a 75mm on there, in terms of the crop. If you're using this just for portraits, this is good — but it might be a bit long for general use. BitesizedNike fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 8, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 18:23
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:I've been shooting a ton of video with my D7000 lately, and while I'm pretty happy with the overall image quality, I'm not too stoked about my apparently constantly loving shaking hands. I'm hoping to find a way to keep things stable when I start moving around, preferably while still being able to pull focus, and I've got $200 right now to throw at the problem. I'm still figuring out what to look for in stabilizers, particularly given that I'm really trying for maximum creaminess in motion, but based on what I know so far this thing seems to check off most of my boxes. Except apparently it's pretty bad quality, and might fall apart, so...for reference, if I had infinite funds I'd be looking for something like this. I'd recommend something along these lines: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...s=REG&A=details I've had one for about 3-4 years now and use it constantly. Usually I just have it tucked by my side to help steady the camera and it works great like that, and then if I need something more steady I actually put the foot down. For me it works a lot better than DSLR shoulder rigs which never seem to balance quite right. Nothing in your price range is going to give you steadicam like smoothness. The closest you could get would be buying an Osmo or something similar rather than anything that uses your existing camera.
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Mar 8, 2017 19:10
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With the purchase of my new lens it has a nice tripod collar with an arca swiss type mount ... I now know why people like them and now I want a ball head that I can use it with. I've seen the Vanguard BBH-100/200/300 and they start around $170 for what seems like a nice head. Any other options at or below that price range I should consider? Used is fine as well.
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Mar 9, 2017 15:27
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Slowhanded posted:Anything that adds and distributes mass is going to help, it's just plain physics. That said, no rig (especially a Steadicam) is a panacea. There's a reason why despite incredible sensor stabilization advances, people still hire professionals for video — nothing beats knowledge and hours, if not years, of practice with your setup. You might want to try out a DIY project using some PVC pipes to see whether you like the form factor or not on the cheap. powderific posted:I'd recommend something along these lines: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...s=REG&A=details I found myself in a similar boat and ended up going the glidecam-type route. Not wanting to invest a lot, I bought a knockoff Glidecam for about $100. With practice, time to set up properly, and a little post processing (a light touch with warp stabilizer can go a long way), it can look decent, and it's versatile. One problem will probably be focusing, though. Having to touch the camera to focus it will probably throw off the balance and introduce some sway or shake. Anything outside of the static interview shots in this video was shot using it - I'm starting it off where a lot of the shots using it occurred. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHarBaV6L5Q&t=92s And keep in mind I'm not very experienced or good at using it yet. From what I gleaned in learning about these things there really isn't a single best solution, which is why video folks use a huge variety of stabilizers -- there are cranes, sliders, gimbals, dollies, steadicams, glidecams, shoulder rigs, etc and they're all used for different purposes and different situations. No one stabilizer will do everything perfectly. I accept that with my glidecam I'm not going to get perfect footage. dakana fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 16:22
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I've shot with all the above and for general flexibility with a DSLR the monopod is super useful. It definitely depends on what you're filming though. The monopod is my goto for smaller shoots with smaller cameras, while I tend to use sliders/dollies/cranes when I'm on larger shoots. Gimbal and steadicam stuff I rent based on specific shots I know I'll want. I only use shoulder rigs with larger cameras—they just don't work well with small stuff in my experience, though I know other people do like em.
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Mar 9, 2017 17:28
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A friend wants a lightweight camera to take photos of his toddler son. I have mostly only ever used big DSLRs so i don't know a lot about smaller cameras. Any recommendations? I am thinking autofocus capability should be a high priority, toddlers move erratically. RAW is probably not needed. His budget is on the low side of $800
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Mar 11, 2017 08:45
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RX100 (any variety) or an LX1 is the choice. G7X if he's a Canon fanboy.
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Mar 11, 2017 13:52
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The Sony RX100m3 is $700 new and an amazing performer, still image IQ hasn't really improved dramatically between the m4 and the new m5 versions. If he really wants the best AF then the m5 is apparently leagues better but also $1000.
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Mar 13, 2017 16:19
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Thanks for the great responses, everyone, that's been very helpful. For the moment I've settled on the 50mm for my first prime, since I'm picking up a ton of portrait work and I figure it will pay for itself, and I'm looking pretty seriously at that glidecam knockoff that was suggested. I've got a pair of follow-up questions on the prime: Is there any particular difference between DX and FX lenses here, given that I'm using a DX camera body? I don't think there would be, since FX lenses are just built for a larger sensor, but I suck so I figured I'd ask--I don't know if there's a larger "sweet spot" in the center of an FX or anything like that. The second question is manufacturer quality: There's a Yongnuo version of the same lens I'm looking at that costs about half as much as the Nikon. Are there any issues with warranty/build quality between the two? I'm always happy to save a buck, but I just want to make sure that's not going to cost more money in the long run. Thanks again for all the great help. E: For more specific reference, the cameras I'm comparing are the Yongnuo YN 50mm f/1.8 and the Nikon AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D. POWELL CURES KIDS fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Mar 14, 2017 20:55
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Skip the d and get the 50 1.8g it is so much better
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Mar 14, 2017 21:16
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It also works on every Nikon including the cheap basic ones whereas the d only works with autofocus on the 7000 and up
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Mar 14, 2017 21:17
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Also, lesson I learned the hard way: don't buy the 1.4. It's only useful if you need f/1.4 in particular, basically all other apertures (and sometimes that one) suck on it. There isn't a significant effective difference between FX and DX, beyond model variation (I'd look at reviews for each and probably buy whichever got better reviews) and future proofing (if you want to switch from DX to FX in the future, there's more of a sunk cost issue if you've already got good DX lenses).
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Mar 15, 2017 03:53
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Krakkles posted:Also, lesson I learned the hard way: don't buy the 1.4. It's only useful if you need f/1.4 in particular, basically all other apertures (and sometimes that one) suck on it. Can confirm this. In some instances (yes I tested, it was my job once) the f/1.4 was generally less sharp overall than the f/1.8 variants of Nikon lenses. For example, the 85mm f/1.4 is ever so slightly less sharp at its best than the f/1.8.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:08
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Good tips, thanks everyone. Is there a general consensus on the reliability/quality of Yongnuo lenses over time? I've read reviews that wander between glowing and savage, but I like to make up my mind based on dead internet comedy forums.Wild EEPROM posted:Skip the d and get the 50 1.8g it is so much better Is there an optical/build quality difference here? I'm using a D7000, so based on my (actually increasingly tenuous) understanding of focus mechanics, I should be able to use the built-in focus motor with that, right?
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Mar 15, 2017 21:43
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The D7000 has the built in focus motor. The 'D' series lenses generally use the built-in focus motors to focus (sort of like a screwdriver) The 'G' series lenses (with exceptions) have motors built into the lenses and can be used on every digital body and many film bodies. The 50 1.8 D optics are really good, and the 1.8 G optics are really really good.
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Mar 16, 2017 05:29
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AF-S lenses have the auto focus motor There are some G lenses without the motor
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Mar 16, 2017 14:14
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nielsm posted:I'm interested in getting a camera specifically for video, mostly of my birds and other inconsequential things. (I'm not planning to become an internet superstar with it.) Just to have something more flexible than my phone camera, and definitely with longer focal length/decent zoom ability. My range is up to about €300. I like the camcorder-style for pure video, it seems easier to hold and use the viewfinder / screen than a DSLR in video mode. That's just ergonomics, which is very personal and subjective. If you can't take advantage of your existing collection of DSLR lenses by paying for a video-capable DSLR body, then there's no reason to obsess over that route. Keep your DSLR for photos, and get a dedicated video camera for your videos. I know nothing about current or recent camcorders, but from what I've seen there's a wide range in price and presumably capabilities. My suggestion is to treat it like buying a pocketable point-and-shoot - decide on your must-have features and find the best combination at your budget. You mention reach for things like birds, which is probably going to be the hardest thing to get. But, getting longer reach than your phone is really easy. Go play with the floor models at a local shop, and see what happens. Are you willing to buy used? I assume there's a steady supply of second-hand camcorders from people upgrading / sidegrading-to-other-styles (DSLR / phone / whatever), and a gently used camcorder that was new a couple of years ago is probably still going to completely blow your phone away in terms of video quality. Then you get into the question of editing. I found the free software that came with my GoPro to be completely terrible, and I didn't see any other free choices that did what I wanted to do so I bought Corel videostudio. This was at least 3 software generations ago so now I get a constant stream of emails from them asking me to upgrade, but I'm still happy with X7 for how often I use it.
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Mar 16, 2017 16:58
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I've looked up a few reviews of the lower end of current Sony and Canon camcorders and it sounds like even those are quite good. When I mentioned birds I mean pet birds, not wild, so even 90 mm equivalent focal length is fine, it would actually be autofocus that could be the main challenge. Thanks for the suggestions of Corel Videostudio, I've wanted a basic NLE for a while, that wasn't Windows Movie Maker, and not requiring an Adobe CC subscription (I'm fine with just my purchased Lightroom 5) or a Mac. I'm installing the trial now.
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Mar 16, 2017 17:53
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nielsm posted:I've looked up a few reviews of the lower end of current Sony and Canon camcorders and it sounds like even those are quite good. When I mentioned birds I mean pet birds, not wild, so even 90 mm equivalent focal length is fine, it would actually be autofocus that could be the main challenge. We should probably move this to a more video-focused thread, like the Film & Video Editing one in CC. But I'm lazy and don't feel like cross-posting. I would be surprised if a 300-Euro-new camcorder from Sony or Canon was anything less than "pretty drat good", with possible limitations in battery life or autofocus speed / accuracy. At this point, the tech is very well established and there are a ton of hidden conventions about "This is the Way to Do This" that mostly work well, so any camcorder should get the job done. I'd be very interested in your thoughts on VideoStudio, I've been thinking about upgrading from X7 to X10 for the motion-stabilization features (as was talked about here lately, I have shaky hands, too) but I feel like I'm so far from reaching the limits of what X7 can do that an upgrade now would just be for the new-shiny-thing.
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Mar 16, 2017 22:31
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I'm assuming someone here has sold their old gear to KEH before? I want to know how the process was (easy, took long etc, accurate quote estimate) etc. They're running a special (10% extra on the quote of your old gear, plus an extra 5% if you opt for KEH store credit). I'm looking to offload my old Canon crop gear (Canon 50d, 430 EXii, Sigma 30 f1.4 non art, canon 50 f1.8, tamron 17-50 f2.8) at some point and with the online quote system they originally quoted me $547, then with all the promos, it would come to $631. That seems about as good as I could get for older crop gear at this point and saves me the trouble of trying to sell things individually or on craigslist. Really tempting, just wanted to see how the process goes.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:09
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Verman posted:I'm assuming someone here has sold their old gear to KEH before? I want to know how the process was (easy, took long etc, accurate quote estimate) etc. Couldn't be easier. Enter the details into their system, "grade" it and it will provide you with an estimate. It also provides you with an option to accept a lower estimate if you grade it too high, or you can request they return the items. They'll either send you a check or send funds via Paypal.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:17
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Verman posted:I'm assuming someone here has sold their old gear to KEH before? I want to know how the process was (easy, took long etc, accurate quote estimate) etc. Takes a couple weeks, they are somehow always "backed up with tons of quotes to process!" regardless of the time of year. Be careful if they tell you stuff is a different grade than you marked. This is what happened to me once I got an email saying a couple items were lower grade than I had guessed, and the new quote was whatever amount less (huge discrepancy for the grade change, from EX to LN- on a couple things) I went to the quote wizard and generated a new quote for those items, using the grades they sent me, and it was far more than the offer they sent in email. I emailed them back to ask about this, and they went dark on me for a day, then emailed me back apologizing for their mistake and offering me what the website had said, which I accepted.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:19
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timrenzi574 posted:Takes a couple weeks, they are somehow always "backed up with tons of quotes to process!" regardless of the time of year. Be careful if they tell you stuff is a different grade than you marked. This is what happened to me once Wow this was polar opposite from my experience. Hopefully they iron that out.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:22
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Check with eBay as well because holy christ I got twice as much for my Canon 400mm f/5.6 than what keh is offering in the best condition.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:23
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