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FogHelmut posted:I just picked up a used Jenn Air grill on OfferUp. Wirewheel it. That's how I cleaned my trash-picked Weber before rebuilding it...ten years ago.
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Mar 11, 2017 03:34
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I spent a hour scrubbing with a can of Simple Green BBQ cleaner that came with the grill. It took off the major gunk, but not the baked on carbon. I sprayed on some Easy Off oven/grill cleaner. Waited 20 minutes, wiped it off. Took off everything down to bare steel. Chemical life. Otherwise, I cleaned the contact points for the igniter. That works fine now, despite the electrodes being rusted out. Well the electrode ends are fine after a bit of steel wool, but the nuts connecting them to the body are gone. It's crumbling, but still solid. On the fence for the $30 to replace them, since I have it open, but it technically works and it's only a few screws to get to them. The gaskets connecting the valves to the manifold are a little cracked, but I don't think they're leaking. Would cost me $7, but another "it's open but..." Also noticed the burner crossovers are rusted out. $26 to replace them both, technically not needed if your ignition is working. And I agonize on this as I impulse buy $63 worth of alcohol... Just waiting on the other parts at this point.
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Mar 11, 2017 04:36
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What is the best way to protect the carpet under my computer chair. My goon mass destroys the carpet and I don't really care for those plastic mats.
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Mar 11, 2017 17:38
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There are glass and hardwood or veneer mats too, but they aren't cheap.
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Mar 11, 2017 17:59
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knowonecanknow posted:What is the best way to protect the carpet under my computer chair. My goon mass destroys the carpet and I don't really care for those plastic mats. Buy a pack or two of laminated flooring and snap together a square under your chair.
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Mar 11, 2017 18:24
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FogHelmut posted:
Update: You may be interested to know that oven cleaner will strip the text off of the front of the control panel.
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Mar 11, 2017 18:43
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Thanks for the suggestions. I think ill do the snap together flooring.
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Mar 11, 2017 18:54
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The Midniter posted:I'm trying to make an oxidized solution as found in this guide here. I bought the fine steel wool, tore it up into bits, and have it in a large wide-mouth glass mason jar with a metal lid. It's been sitting in there for a week, and even though I shake it every day, nothing's happening. What can I do to speed up the oxidation process? So I have done this a few times.... If you want the grey look, use steel wool and white vinegar. Heres the important thing, make sure you didn't buy stainless steel wool. Also, I don't cover the jar, you want air to get in there freely. I let it sit overnight, and the mixture won't look like anything has happened, thats ok. Take a foam brush, dip it in, then brush it on a piece of wood. Again, it won't look like anything happened, just wait. As it dries, it will turn grey, the more coats, the darker it will get. If you want it a darker brown color, use a darker vinegar.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:17
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I found some pine cones and I want to plant them. Is there a special thing I have to do for them? I know I gotta let them open and spread their seeds, but that's about it.
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Mar 11, 2017 22:40
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cakesmith handyman posted:Lots of pictures will be needed. Did you have any structural survey done to back up what needs doing and why? "Lots of dry rot" sounds terrible, was your bank aware the house is rotten when they lent you the money? Foil is great for filling out things, but not things with crisp edges. I'm making miniature buildings for a project, and it's tricky to make a structure with right edges that doesn't collapse while I'm manipulating clay over it. Right now, I'm gluing bits of balsa wood together with liquid clay, but it's a nuisance to work with--they fall apart really easily and I practically have to do it in the oven, since they collapse with the slightest jostle. I'm gonna try pre-baking some pieces of clay since they'll hopefully stick to unbaked clay better. Balsa doesn't stick to clay at all, and the liquid clay doesn't air-dry well enough to survive a bump or two.
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Mar 11, 2017 23:52
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Sociopastry posted:I found some pine cones and I want to plant them. Is there a special thing I have to do for them? I know I gotta let them open and spread their seeds, but that's about it. Did the cones open already? They may have already released their seeds.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:17
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Edit: actually, I think this would be better off going in the woodworking thread. Sorry chaps.
Mephiston fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 11:25
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Mephiston posted:Edit: actually, I think this would be better off going in the woodworking thread. Sorry chaps. Maybe... I'd go ahead and ask it anyways, someone here might know. I for one really enjoy woodworking but I don't even know the last time I looked at the woodworking thread.
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Mar 13, 2017 16:09
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FogHelmut posted:Update: I appreciate this information, and your sacrifice.
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Mar 13, 2017 18:13
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Tell me why I shouldn't buy a pressure washer. Home Depot rental is like $50 ish per day for a 1400 psi, or $100 ish a day for a 3400 psi. I can buy a 2030 psi for $150. I really just want to clean my concrete patio. I guess I could also clean my stucco? My car? I know a couple of uses would pay itself off vs renting, but I don't know how much I'd really use it.
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Mar 14, 2017 17:58
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Don't buy one. The electric ones are crappy, and if you buy a gas one that's one more small engine for you to maintain and keep in working order for the once-a-year you actually use it.
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Mar 14, 2017 18:54
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FogHelmut posted:Tell me why I shouldn't buy a pressure washer. Yeah I rented one to take care of some really old spiderwebs and dirt that I couldn't get off with my hose from the side of my house. Cost me $30.I probably could have realistically taken care of everything I would ever use a pressure washer for in a single day. If I have to pay that once or twice a year and it means I don't have to store another thing, I'm OK with that.
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Mar 14, 2017 19:18
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None of my bathrooms have exhaust fans just these fire hazard space heaters from the 70's. I was going to replace them with exhaust fans and I wanted to know what the consensus was on where to vent this poo poo to? Roof, out the side of the exterior wall, or through a soffit?
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Mar 14, 2017 19:41
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Super 3 posted:None of my bathrooms have exhaust fans just these fire hazard space heaters from the 70's. I was going to replace them with exhaust fans and I wanted to know what the consensus was on where to vent this poo poo to? Roof, out the side of the exterior wall, or through a soffit? Well Superman, since you seem to forget you're the only one here with X-ray vision, none of us mortals can see what your bathrooms look like to give you a Super informed answer. edit- sorry, Big Fella, I just couldn't help posting that.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:00
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Mr. Mambold posted:Well Superman, since you seem to forget you're the only one here with X-ray vision, none of us mortals can see what your bathrooms look like to give you a Super informed answer. I hate you, and the walls have lead paint preventing X-ray vision from working
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Mar 14, 2017 20:04
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Super 3 posted:None of my bathrooms have exhaust fans just these fire hazard space heaters from the 70's. I was going to replace them with exhaust fans and I wanted to know what the consensus was on where to vent this poo poo to? Roof, out the side of the exterior wall, or through a soffit? I vented mine out the side of the house, but the roof is a better place to vent it. You don't want to vent it out the side of the house underneath one of your soffits, only to have the moisture go straight up into your attic through the eave vents. To do the roof, just take a 4" circular hole saw, drill straight through, lift up shingles, insert vent cover, caulk, nail in, etc, and connect your vent hose. This old house has a good video on installation: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-vent-bath-fan-through-roof Don't vent it into the attic like the previous owners of my house did, that's an invitation for mold growth.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:07
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OSU_Matthew posted:I vented mine out the side of the house, but the roof is a better place to vent it. You don't want to vent it out the side of the house underneath one of your soffits, only to have the moisture go straight up into your attic through the eave vents. To do the roof, just take a 4" circular hole saw, drill straight through, lift up shingles, insert vent cover, caulk, nail in, etc, and connect your vent hose. That's one of the video's I've been looking at, I wasn't sure about the pro's cons of the different options. You make a lot of sense with the venting in the side of the house the moisture just goes back up into the roof via the soffit vents. Not that my house even has soffit vents for that to happen, sob.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:13
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Super 3 posted:That's one of the video's I've been looking at, I wasn't sure about the pro's cons of the different options. You make a lot of sense with the venting in the side of the house the moisture just goes back up into the roof via the soffit vents. Not that my house even has soffit vents for that to happen, sob. That's why I vented mine out the side of my house, because it's far enough down from the roofline everything would dissipate pretty well, and there's no ventilation in my eaves. Plus, that was the recommendation from a builder/contractor friend of the family. Through the roof is probably the best practice though.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:28
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FogHelmut posted:Tell me why I shouldn't buy a pressure washer. I bought a $80? cheapo junker from harbor freight. It worked fine, and if it works a second time it will have paid for itself. You can get it down to like $60 with the right incantation of coupons and sales.
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Mar 14, 2017 21:52
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H110Hawk posted:I bought a $80? cheapo junker from harbor freight. It worked fine, and if it works a second time it will have paid for itself. You can get it down to like $60 with the right incantation of coupons and sales. I have a huge collection of harbor freight tools. Typically there's a powertool I need for one job, so I get the $30 CHICAGO ELECTRIC generic one, and then I use it. If a second job comes up that I need it for, I use it then too. If it breaks or something after I've gotten a couple uses out of it I'll buy a real one, but honestly I don't do enough projects where it matters. EDIT: My $20 oscillating tool from there has been the savior of my past three months of new home projects. I use it once a week.
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Mar 14, 2017 21:55
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Super 3 posted:I hate you, and the walls have lead paint preventing X-ray vision from working Seriously, if you can sketch something up with some crude measurements we can probably offer you some kind of do's and don'ts. Each scenario is different.
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Mar 15, 2017 00:16
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As an alternative to using a pressure washer, what is the best way to get paint off of concrete? For example, if I had a paper towel full of paint laying on the tarp I was using to protect the concrete, and my dog ran over and grabbed it and drug it across the open patio.
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Mar 15, 2017 20:53
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I've successfully used nail polish remover to take sap off concrete
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Mar 15, 2017 21:07
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Learning from my previous lesson, oven cleaner worked to some effect, though not really any better than toilet bowl cleaner. I did have to scrub a bit to loosen it up. I did not try plain water as a control. This is exterior paint, so I would hope it holds up against water.
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Mar 15, 2017 21:16
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Maybe muratic acid as a last resort but you might have to do the whole patio to have it not be a bright spot.
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Mar 15, 2017 22:42
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Mr. Mambold posted:Seriously, if you can sketch something up with some crude measurements we can probably offer you some kind of do's and don'ts. Each scenario is different. I appreciate the offer I was mainly just curious about the pros and cons of different venting options. I'm going with the roof option on this one.
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Mar 16, 2017 00:29
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I need to soundproof the cracks in my girlfriend's door because a crazy amount of noise comes in from the hall. Can someone recommend me a kit for it?
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Mar 16, 2017 00:35
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:I need to soundproof the cracks in my girlfriend's door because a crazy amount of noise comes in from the hall. Can someone recommend me a kit for it? Try weatherstripping. What kind depends on the door's construction and how thick the gaps are.
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Mar 16, 2017 00:57
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:I need to soundproof the cracks in my girlfriend's door because a crazy amount of noise comes in from the hall. Can someone recommend me a kit for it? Great Stuff Expanding Foam Drill a couple of holes and shoot in a can or two to seal up the air gaps! Also, make sure your film the process and post the results, please and thank you someone earlier in the thread was gung ho on doing this, but then boring people talked them off the ledge 
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Mar 16, 2017 01:31
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Yeah I meant the gaps, not the cracks. There's a lot of sound proofing door sweeps/edges I've been looking at. The door is a piece of poo poo with a big gap underneath into the hall. The neighbor also has the same setup and it's all hardwood everywhere so a lot of the sound just bounces around and comes under both doors. The parents below her are pretty terrible in general and yell all the time so I'm looking to seal the door, maybe make the landlords seal theirs, and then maybe put some sound reducing matting down under some area rugs.
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Mar 16, 2017 02:40
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Yeah I meant the gaps, not the cracks. There's a lot of sound proofing door sweeps/edges I've been looking at. This is what happens when you trim a door for carpet and then remove the carpet. Our whole house is like this and it means the A/C can actually move throughout the house with the doors shut even if it's inefficient.
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Mar 16, 2017 03:44
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FogHelmut posted:Tell me why I shouldn't buy a pressure washer. My electric washer (240V, if that makes a difference) is rated to 1740 PSI, and there's no way I'd get anything less than that. You could clean your patio with a weaker one, but you have to spend a lot longer doing it. I use it on my driveway and rear deck and it works a treat.
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Mar 16, 2017 05:02
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Some loving punk tried to break in through my back door tonight Broken window is on the bottom right. I'm just gonna board the entire thing up, anything I should know before I buy the supplies in the morning? A sturdy board and screws should be all I need right?
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Mar 16, 2017 10:12
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Unless you're planning to replace the door, I wouldn't screw wood onto it. You can replace the glass pretty easily with a putty knife and a caulk gun. Should be able to have a pane of glass cut wherever you would be buying the wood.
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Mar 16, 2017 12:20
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Leal posted:
You're going to need the following supplies.     
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Mar 16, 2017 13:46
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