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Martytoof posted:I'm.. not sure there is any scenario in today's world where I would be seen outside my apartment wielding one of those, so I applaud you on that front I think that kind of thing is normal in Eastern Europe
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Mar 14, 2017 23:02
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Yeah he's not in the USA which helps a lot.
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Mar 14, 2017 23:15
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Oh, too true. Still, kudos 
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Mar 14, 2017 23:15
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So in June theres going to be a camera fair in Brisbane, with loads of poo poo for sale. I figure it's a pretty good opportunity to get a cool 35mm camera, maybe a medium format, and make some money. I think I should probably start tracking prices now to have a good idea on the day, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. I figure, anything leica and anything medium format (particularly mamiya and pentax going by the thread) would be pretty easy to sell, but what else is desirable? Is this a really bad idea? I've been looking at ebay and gumtree (kinda like our craigslist) and theres often not much there I recognise, except dudes trying to sell contax g1s for 1600 and ae1s for $800 E: I realise I probably won't make much money but I honestly enjoy it. It offsets the cost of my current gear + anything I buy to keep too. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 00:04
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underage at the vape shop posted:So in June theres going to be a camera fair in Brisbane, with loads of poo poo for sale. I figure it's a pretty good opportunity to get a cool 35mm camera, maybe a medium format, and make some money. I think I should probably start tracking prices now to have a good idea on the day, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. I can't speak for Brisbane's camera fair, but if it is anything like that in Sydney, you'll be competing with a bunch of old dudes who have been collecting, buying and selling cameras for longer than you have been alive. They have contacts that let them find and buy rad old cameras on the cheap and they get massive discounts on getting these cameras serviced due to repeat custom. Due to this, these guys offer reasonable prices on beautiful cameras and walk away with a decent profit. I bought both my Mamiya C330s and my Pentax 67 from a guy I met at the Sydney camera fair - both were in impeccable condition and were significantly cheaper than purchasing online. Basically, what I'm saying is this: unless you stumble across a mother lode of underpriced, pristine cameras, you are either going to lose money or, more likely, end up with a bunch of stock that you struggle to offload.
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Mar 15, 2017 03:09
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Anyone knows about any good sources on analogic movie cameras? I'm thinking into taking the plunge with probably 8mm (might go with Super 8, 16mm is way to much resolution and weight for what I want to do) but would really like to read more about them and It seems I'm not very good in finding analogic cine references/sources.
Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 03:18
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Primo Itch posted:Anyone knows about any good sources on analogic movie cameras? I'm thinking into taking the plunge with probably 8mm (might go with Super 8, 16mm is way to much resolution and weight for what I want to do) but would really like to read more about them and It seems I'm not very good in finding analogic cine references/sources. Kodak I think is bringing out or has brought out a new super 8 camera. I'd do that. E: http://www.kodak.com/consumer/products/super8/default.htm
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Mar 15, 2017 03:25
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underage at the vape shop posted:So in June theres going to be a camera fair in Brisbane, with loads of poo poo for sale. I figure it's a pretty good opportunity to get a cool 35mm camera, maybe a medium format, and make some money. I think I should probably start tracking prices now to have a good idea on the day, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. nobody is buying leica r and leica cl's nobody is buying mamiya 645 either you won't find any real good deals, but if you're into big cheap piles of broken things or boxes full of cloudy uv filters then you're set.
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Mar 15, 2017 04:27
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stealie72 posted:Just bought an old camera that has a new roll of konica brand color film that expired in 1986. Worth shooting/developing? nope
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Mar 15, 2017 04:42
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Primo Itch posted:Anyone knows about any good sources on analogic movie cameras? I'm thinking into taking the plunge with probably 8mm (might go with Super 8, 16mm is way to much resolution and weight for what I want to do) but would really like to read more about them and It seems I'm not very good in finding analogic cine references/sources. VelociBacon posted:Kodak I think is bringing out or has brought out a new super 8 camera. I'd do that. Yeah I'm pretty sure this is the only modern option as far as cameras go. I think they're trying to have it out by May of this year, but other places are saying it won't arrive until fall. Price estimates seem to put it somewhere between $400 and $800. There are a lot of older Super8 cameras out there though in decent working order and they aren't too hard to find.
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Mar 15, 2017 12:07
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the biggest problem with super8 is you are looking at astronomical prices to dev and telecine it. Each cartridge is like 50 feet (roughly 3 mins of filming) and the cheapest I could find for transfer was $10/ 50 feet ....but there's always a fee for storage medium so an additional $50-75 per batch. I guess if you saved up and did a bunch at once it's be kind of economical but you would still be looking at $150 -$200 just to make something short. I guess you could shoot slide film and home dev it then project it on the cheap tho.
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Mar 15, 2017 14:49
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yeah i know Dakana looked into it when his wife got him a rad old video camera for Christmas and development is suuuper expensive now 
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Mar 15, 2017 16:25
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DJExile posted:yeah i know Dakana looked into it when his wife got him a rad old video camera for Christmas and development is suuuper expensive now suuuuper 8 It doesn't help that for all your money and effort the results look pretty lovely.
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Mar 15, 2017 16:37
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8th-snype posted:the biggest problem with super8 is you are looking at astronomical prices to dev and telecine it. Each cartridge is like 50 feet (roughly 3 mins of filming) and the cheapest I could find for transfer was $10/ 50 feet ....but there's always a fee for storage medium so an additional $50-75 per batch. I guess if you saved up and did a bunch at once it's be kind of economical but you would still be looking at $150 -$200 just to make something short. I guess you could shoot slide film and home dev it then project it on the cheap tho. I'm thinking something like that... Use black and white film, develop at home and scan the film for editing/projecting. To be honest there's no place in my country that develops 8mm anymore anyways, but I like a good DYI project. I can probably rig a scanning thingamajiggy with an old projector, a digital camera and a macro lens. And of course source some old camera and lens(es) (all my cameras are old tbh, that's just how I roll). I wanted to find some material on old cameras/lenses to search ebay and our local equivalent for something to start with as I just don't know much about makers, brands and models for cine cameras. I realize it's going to be on the expensive side of things, but I'm looking into short films and well, I think some pushed black and white Super 8 is going to have quite a unique look... It's not like I'm good with saving money anyways... Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Mar 16, 2017 |
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Mar 16, 2017 02:59
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It's not really possible to shoot regular 35mm film for motion pictures, right? Old 35mm movie film was aligned to spool 'top to bottom' not 'left to right' ... right? Because you can still buy 100ft rolls of stuff like tri-x. Sort of on the subject, my old boss made a documentary for PBS on 16mm film back in the 80's. Besides the original reels, all that's left of it are crappy VHS copies. I've always wanted to take a crack at scanning it, frame by frame, back into a higher-resolution format. I'm curious about how that old 16mm stock would look when given a very high-resolution scan treatment.
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Mar 16, 2017 04:26
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SMERSH Mouth posted:It's not really possible to shoot regular 35mm film for motion pictures, right? "La La Land" and "Fences" were both shot on 35mm film, and I believe "Suicide Squad" was as well. E: So was "Fury" DJExile fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Mar 16, 2017 |
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Mar 16, 2017 05:00
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I think what he's asking is whether you could run 35mm stills film through a 35mm film camera or not. The answer is yes, you theoretically could, as film and still stock are both the same gauge and the same space between perforations, the 35mm refers to the total width of the filmstrip from edge to edge including perforations, not the live image space. it's just that most still stocks are not sold in film reel quantities. As an aside, there are dudes that have bought canisters of weirder cinema film stocks and then repackaged them into stills canisters so you could run them through a still camera.
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Mar 16, 2017 05:26
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SMERSH Mouth posted:It's not really possible to shoot regular 35mm film for motion pictures, right? You really have two issues running into using still film in a movie camera: 1. Different perforation formats. Still film uses Kodak Standard perforation, while movie film uses Bell & Howell. Bell & Howell perforation allows for more accurate registration of the image as the film moves through the transport. 2. Lack of rem-jet layer. This smooths transport as well as providing the anti-halation layer in movie film. So really, the biggest issues you'll run into if you were going to try this is with the film transport mechanism due to the differences between the two format. Also, the running time, as you would usually buy the film in 400-1000 foot rolls.
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Mar 16, 2017 06:00
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So that's what the rem-jet layer is. Always wondered, but never googled. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_film_formats?wprov=sfla1 There were... quite a few movie film formats, it looks like. I guess I was confusing the orientation of original production film stock (which moves horizontally like stills film... the stuff oskar barnack put in the first Leica) with the transfered copy that went onto a projector reel (which moves vertically).
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Mar 16, 2017 15:48
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elgarbo posted:I can't speak for Brisbane's camera fair, but if it is anything like that in Sydney, you'll be competing with a bunch of old dudes who have been collecting, buying and selling cameras for longer than you have been alive. They have contacts that let them find and buy rad old cameras on the cheap and they get massive discounts on getting these cameras serviced due to repeat custom. Due to this, these guys offer reasonable prices on beautiful cameras and walk away with a decent profit. I bought both my Mamiya C330s and my Pentax 67 from a guy I met at the Sydney camera fair - both were in impeccable condition and were significantly cheaper than purchasing online. I thought it might be like that, oh well.
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Mar 16, 2017 23:03
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For some reason I always thought that the remjet in cinema stock was to keep static electricity down while the film whips through the camera. I never even considered that it's there for the same reason the photographic stock had it.
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Mar 17, 2017 01:59
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underage at the vape shop posted:I thought it might be like that, oh well. That said, they are cool places to check out and you can definitely get good cameras at them. If you want to buy a rad old film camera, go along, bring some cash, chat with some old dudes.
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Mar 17, 2017 10:04
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I'm having a hard time finding a cheapie developer for C-41, after having not done any for several years. Is there a current prefered mail service? I'm not picky about developing, but I can't find a cheap drug store type place that still develops and returns the negatives. I'm in the NYC area, but searches for labs there turn up pro-stuff at a much higher price point. I'm cool with not great processing for a cheap price, as I'm not looking for super precision when I personally work with film. Is Dwayne's Photo still a go-to for mail away? Went back a few pages, sorry if I missed a recent discussion.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:28
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Jahoodie posted:I'm having a hard time finding a cheapie developer for C-41, after having not done any for several years. Is there a current prefered mail service? I'm not picky about developing, but I can't find a cheap drug store type place that still develops and returns the negatives. I've been happy with Darkroom
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Mar 17, 2017 17:00
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my roommate told me about The Color House
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Mar 17, 2017 17:30
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I just developed my first roll of film and amazingly, it looks like I didn't gently caress it up. I have it hanging up drying right now with clip weights on it, two on top, two on bottom, but it's curling side to side pretty bad. Is there something I can do to combat this, maybe not this time, but in the future? The film is ultrafine extreme 400 - 120mm. It's pretty cheap film I think, so maybe that's just a characteristic of it? It's killing me not to scan these in right now!
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Mar 21, 2017 01:40
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It'll flatten out a bit after it is a bit dryer, but it's best to weigh it down inside a heavy book for a few days first.
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Mar 21, 2017 01:43
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Wild EEPROM posted:It'll flatten out a bit after it is a bit dryer, but it's best to weigh it down inside a heavy book for a few days first. Awesome.. Thanks dude! I was going to scan them in about this time tomorrow. Is a full day typically enough dry time before scanning?
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Mar 21, 2017 01:46
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I was lucky if I could make myself wait an hour before scanning, let alone a day. Which could explain the terrible scans I used to get.
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Mar 21, 2017 01:50
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It dries in about an hour usually unless you live somewhere with super hosed up humidity.
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Mar 21, 2017 09:33
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If you're interested in black and white cine film, Foma still makes it cheap both 8 and 16mm: http://www.fomafoto.com/index.php/shop/b-w-film/cine-film
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Mar 24, 2017 11:26
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Those of you developing color negative at home, what are you doing to keep your temps in check, just hot water in a tub or something? I'm thinking about ordering a c-41 kit since I seem to be doing ok (good enough for me anyway) with BW development, but it appears that c41 is much more critical with temperatures. I'd really like to be free from sending out any film for development. Also, what are you using to store your color chems in? The shelf life seems to be a mixed bag from different people on the interwebs. Some say 6 months, others say one developing session.
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Mar 24, 2017 12:00
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https://www.iamthejeff.com/post/33/how-to-make-a-diy-temperature-controlled-water-bath-for-home-film-development The hardware listed here. Wiring up and programming the controller is a little tricky. (I was having issues due to using wires that were an insufficient gauge.) Color dev at home is something that, even with the controlled bath, is something that only *usually* produces lab-quality results. Not always. Like, I recently discovered that my new 2L container held too much liquid above the water line of the bath (or something) and it was staying around 1°F below the required temperature, no matter how long it sat there. Even after correcting for that, after about 5 or so individual 120 rolls running through he system, I'm starting to get color casts (film base turning more pink instead of a healthy orange). Around 5 is what I usually get with a 1L chem kit before the pink shift starts to appear, but I was hoping to get more life out of the 2L. I got it at the beginning of February. Here are a few things to consider, if you're thinking about going for C41 home dev: - Blix is loving rank and will stain bathroom fixtures and linoleum. And you have to recycle it. - Even a drop of cross-contamination of blix in your developer will ruin it by causing the final colors to be 'off'. - You have to clean the poo poo out of our dev tank after every cycle, to avoid cross contamination - especially if you're pouring the chemicals back to reuse them. - You need separate tanks & reels for color dev and black & white, unless you don't mind putting them through a dishwasher or something in between - Times are simple because they're always the same for a given brand of chems, but timing and agitation have to be fairly precise. This list is not meant to put you off of it, it's just fair warning. I do most of my color developing at home, and am happy with the results. But if I had any paid work, photos from a special trip or the like, I would take them to a real lab. Maybe others here get more consistant results with less loving around than I do, and I'm always open to advice or tips. I don't want to make it sound too hard. It isn't.
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Mar 25, 2017 06:16
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Stuff I had no idea about the blix. I swear I've seen videos where they are dumping that poo poo down the drain. Where do you take something like that to get recycled? Looking at the water heating set up you linked. I'm wondering if i could use water in my electron powered turkey deep fryer and achieve the same result. I could even snag one off craigslist for the cheap and use it specifically for this. Actually, I see no reason why that wouldn't work since it gets hot enough to boil water and has temp control. Thanks for typing all that out by the way. It really helps! 
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Mar 25, 2017 14:47
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SMERSH Mouth posted:https://www.iamthejeff.com/post/33/how-to-make-a-diy-temperature-controlled-water-bath-for-home-film-development Or just buy one of those sous vide machines. http://myirietime.com/color-film-processing-with-a-sous-vide/
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Mar 25, 2017 15:48
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Sous vide is definitely easier but a proper temp controller will have better accuracy (fractions of a degree, cooking utilities don't need that level of precision) and is capable of "learning" when to switch the heating element off to prevent temperature overshoot.
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Mar 25, 2017 21:31
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Spedman posted:If you're interested in black and white cine film, Foma still makes it cheap both 8 and 16mm: Really good prices, at least for cine film. Cheers for the link
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Mar 25, 2017 21:55
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Choicecut posted:I had no idea about the blix. I swear I've seen videos where they are dumping that poo poo down the drain. Where do you take something like that to get recycled? 1) My city has a monthly hazardous chemical disposal day and I take it to their center. If I can make it. Fortunately it's not really that much liquid to store until I get around to it. I used to just flush it, but since I started using more I've tried to be more responsible. 2) Might as well try that first. Just set it to the right temp (102°F for the unicolor kits I use), float the bottles for an hour or so, then take them out and check their temperature. If it works, it works. Might want to stop using it for food then, though. A digital oral thermometer, while useless for B&W, is nice for getting fast and accurate readings of color chem temperature.. As long as you're getting reasonably close. They don't have a very wide range. And don't share thermometers between different chemicals.
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Mar 25, 2017 23:42
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cheapest sous vide immersion thing i found was $60, seems a bit odd for me to be spending money like that just to develop film, and TBCH, i play fast and loose with temps all the time. it is very tempting though.
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Mar 28, 2017 05:03
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Understanding posted:seems a bit odd for me to be spending money like that just to develop film You can cook with it too!
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Mar 28, 2017 14:10
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