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There's really no reputable seller who sells batteries they've refurb'd in-house with decent cells and stuff? I'm tired of dealing with lovely chinese knockoff batteries too. I have a Thinkpad W510, so getting up there in years but it should be a common part that's used by lots of units...
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Feb 24, 2017 05:46
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I have a small NUC I've been using for kodi that stopped working yesterday while watching something. Not sure if it's the power supply or anything else. When i turn it on it clicks, but won't boot at all. Tried a different drive and same problem. I have a universal laptop power supply, If I want to test the power supply of the NUC has failed, as long as the ratings are the same I should be able to use that to test if it powers up right?
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Mar 2, 2017 23:05
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Puddin posted:I have a universal laptop power supply, If I want to test the power supply of the NUC has failed, as long as the ratings are the same I should be able to use that to test if it powers up right? Yes. Make sure the voltage is the same and the power supply can provide the same or more watts. Also, check the barrel plug's polarity, though most stuff is center-positive at this point.
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Mar 3, 2017 00:38
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B-Nasty posted:Yes. Make sure the voltage is the same and the power supply can provide the same or more watts. Also, check the barrel plug's polarity, though most stuff is center-positive at this point. Got it. Cheers.
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Mar 3, 2017 00:58
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Puddin posted:Got it. Cheers. Bugger, Nuc is 12v @3a and the laptop is 19v @ 4.6a. I'll check some other power supplies I have lying around to see if anything matches.
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Mar 3, 2017 07:25
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If you have a multimeter (a cheap one is handy if you don't), you can shove a lead down the power supply's barrel plug and touching the outside to see if you're reading 12V. The power supply can still fail under load, but that would quickly tell you if it's dead.
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Mar 3, 2017 14:34
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B-Nasty posted:If you have a multimeter (a cheap one is handy if you don't), you can shove a lead down the power supply's barrel plug and touching the outside to see if you're reading 12V. The power supply can still fail under load, but that would quickly tell you if it's dead. The thing is not that old so i'm just gonna take it back and swap it for something else. I've got a Fire TV stick to hold me over for the mean time.
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Mar 4, 2017 00:27
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I think this is the right thread to ask. My second monitor is not displaying anything. I tested the cable and the DVI port on my graphics card and they are fine, and the computer actually does recognize it (I can see it in the NVIDIA control panel). When I move my cursor to the edge of my main monitor it disappears into the second as if everything's working fine, except it remains totally black. The monitor's menu doesn't show up either if I try that. Is it fair to say it's some kind of internal electrical failure - blown capacitor maybe? Anything else I can try on my own before I consider getting it repaired? Though it's ten years old so I might not bother since it's not often in use anyway.
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Mar 5, 2017 10:04
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Does the backlight come on?
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Mar 5, 2017 10:35
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Glare Seethe posted:I think this is the right thread to ask. My second monitor is not displaying anything. I tested the cable and the DVI port on my graphics card and they are fine, and the computer actually does recognize it (I can see it in the NVIDIA control panel). When I move my cursor to the edge of my main monitor it disappears into the second as if everything's working fine, except it remains totally black. The monitor's menu doesn't show up either if I try that. Take a flashlight and shine it onto the screen. As the person above me said, the back light could have finally gave out.
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Mar 5, 2017 11:06
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Hmm no, I can't see anything even with a flashlight pointing at it.
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Mar 5, 2017 12:46
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Is there a thread around here with goon recommended wireless routers and other networking things? I've been using an Apple Airport Express and it's wireless is just getting more and more frustrating... Have a pretty small (2B/2B, 1 story) house but this thing has never been powerful enough to reach all areas and has recently gotten slower and slower.
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Mar 5, 2017 19:21
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zenintrude posted:Is there a thread around here with goon recommended wireless routers and other networking things? I've been using an Apple Airport Express and it's wireless is just getting more and more frustrating... Have a pretty small (2B/2B, 1 story) house but this thing has never been powerful enough to reach all areas and has recently gotten slower and slower.
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Mar 5, 2017 20:27
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So I decided to build another small HTC to replace the nuc, just realized my mobo(Asus h1101-plus) ram speed is rated to 2133mhz, but the ram I picked up (4gb Geil Pristine) is a 2400mhz stick. That'll just clock down to 2133 right?
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Mar 6, 2017 04:24
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Puddin posted:So I decided to build another small HTC to replace the nuc, just realized my mobo(Asus h1101-plus) ram speed is rated to 2133mhz, but the ram I picked up (4gb Geil Pristine) is a 2400mhz stick. Yeah, it should run at a lower speed with no problem. I have some DDR3 1866 running at 1333 because it was cheaper than 1333 when I bought it and I had to match a set of 1333.
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Mar 6, 2017 06:11
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Fishing for a suggestion for a thing I can use to determine how much electricity/watts/amps my computer is using at a given moment. I'm trying to diagnose if a new video card (upgrading nVidia 780 -> 980) is overtaxing my current PSU. More interested in knowing about electrical factors than "This is costing you $x.xx/hour" type info.
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Mar 7, 2017 06:49
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MREBoy posted:Fishing for a suggestion for a thing I can use to determine how much electricity/watts/amps my computer is using at a given moment. I'm trying to diagnose if a new video card (upgrading nVidia 780 -> 980) is overtaxing my current PSU. More interested in knowing about electrical factors than "This is costing you $x.xx/hour" type info. If you have an uninterruptible power supply the included software (or LCD display) may show that information. If not, a Kill-A-Watt or other electricity meter will show you this info for $15-20. If you have a clamp style multimeter you may be able to read the AC current through the power cord from the wall. All of this may be unnecessary, however. Nvidia's spec for the GTX 780 is 250 Watts and for the GTX 980 is 165 Watts. That doesn't account for overclocking increasing the power draw, but since it's so much less I'd assume that any PSU that can handle the 780 will have no trouble with the 980 since it's a lower power card.
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Mar 7, 2017 07:31
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Rexxed posted:If you have a clamp style multimeter you may be able to read the AC current through the power cord from the wall. Only if he opens up the cable and separates the live and neutral wires, putting it around both wires won't work.
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Mar 7, 2017 10:25
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Does anyone know of a good 802.11ac class router that works with LEDE? I don't want DD-WRT, and Tomato isn't quite what I'm looking for either. This pretty much means I'm stuck with Atheros. I can't find a drat thing.
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Mar 7, 2017 18:29
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Bipolar Transistor posted:Does anyone know of a good 802.11ac class router that works with LEDE? I don't want DD-WRT, and Tomato isn't quite what I'm looking for either. This pretty much means I'm stuck with Atheros. I can't find a drat thing. If you haven't already posted in it... Alereon posted:Home networking thread is here. Try there.
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Mar 7, 2017 18:36
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Does anyone know if the "beats audio" used in Hp's is any good? I revived an Hp Pavillion p7-1380t and it has the "Beats Audio" and im wondering if that means it has a decent/better than usual sound card. For what its worth i never downloaded the EQ or any Beats software for it, but the audio jacks all work fine PS If anyone knows if it would be able to effectively power a pair of Sennheiser HD280 pros that would be great. And if it cant, then any similarly priced (preferably Sennheiser, or a company with a similar warranty) Cans that would sound good with it.
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Mar 12, 2017 02:29
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Preface: I don't know much about audio From what I can tell, the p7-1380t uses the 92HD73E audio codec. I'm not sure how better/worse it is compared to other hardware, but it's not exclusive to "Beats Audio". Beats is just a software utility. If it'll run those headphones well, I can't say. (The spec sheet lists "3" for Stereo Headphone Amplifiers. Three is a good number, right?) If no one here has any ideas I'd suggest heading over to the IYG Headphone thread and asking there, since it seems like you're looking for a set. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 07:57
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DildenAnders posted:Does anyone know if the "beats audio" used in Hp's is any good? I revived an Hp Pavillion p7-1380t and it has the "Beats Audio" and im wondering if that means it has a decent/better than usual sound card. For what its worth i never downloaded the EQ or any Beats software for it, but the audio jacks all work fine It doesn't do anything the equalizer in your audio player can't. Your headphones have a 64 ohm impedance, which is right on the edge of "eh, they might benefit from an amplifier" for use with standard laptop and phone jacks. I haven't owned a pair of those, so I can't say for sure, but the headphone thread might. In the worst case that the sound is noticeably off, you can get a really basic amplifier pretty cheaply. If I remember correctly, the Audio-Technica ATH M50X would work as a substitute.
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Mar 13, 2017 09:11
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DildenAnders posted:Does anyone know if the "beats audio" used in Hp's is any good? I revived an Hp Pavillion p7-1380t and it has the "Beats Audio" and im wondering if that means it has a decent/better than usual sound card. For what its worth i never downloaded the EQ or any Beats software for it, but the audio jacks all work fine If your just looking to get a second pair of headphones and don't want to break the bank, just buy a pair of HD202's. I bought a pair years ago and for the price the sound quality is pretty drat good.
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Mar 13, 2017 10:50
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I don't know if they're available in the US, but Superlux headphones are good Taiwan copies of popular Beyerdynamic and AKG studio headphones priced between 20-50. Great choice if you're looking for neutral sounding headphones without breaking bank.
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Mar 13, 2017 11:07
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Honj Steak posted:I don't know if they're available in the US, but Superlux headphones are good Taiwan copies of popular Beyerdynamic and AKG studio headphones priced between 20-50. Great choice if you're looking for neutral sounding headphones without breaking bank. They are. I have a pair of Superlux 668B that I bought from Amazon that are pretty OK for a pair of $30 headphones. If you want to go a little higher in the scale - look at the Philips SHP9500S headphones. Next step up past that is a pair of K7XX pretty much. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 11:44
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I have the Homeworld Remastered Collectors' Edition, including the kickass Mothership statue. It has LEDs that light up via a USB plug. Is it safe to plug this into an Apple AC to USB adapter or similar, or do I run the risk of burning it out somehow?
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Mar 14, 2017 21:49
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I have the Homeworld Remastered Collectors' Edition, including the kickass Mothership statue. It has LEDs that light up via a USB plug. Is it safe to plug this into an Apple AC to USB adapter or similar, or do I run the risk of burning it out somehow? I don't see why it would be a problem, the Apple adapter is going to be putting out 5 volts, same as any other USB port. Just don't use a cheap-rear end ebay special adapter.
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Mar 15, 2017 00:36
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Does anyone know why my Biostar 8400GS cannot run any OpenGl games? Im trying to play Wolf ET, Doom 3, and Jedi Academy but OpenGl is not working.
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Mar 20, 2017 02:56
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I'm upgrading the 750GB HDD in my Asus N551J laptop to a (old) 240GB Intel SSD and a 2TB Seagate ST2000LM015 drive in an optical bay replacement caddy. Should I be worried about heat at all? I have no idea how much heat the Seagate drive will generate but I don't think the caddy gets any airflow. I was also wondering if it's worth taking the SSD out of it's case (Intel 330) for better cooling or if that would be overkill.
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Mar 20, 2017 09:07
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OneStopShop posted:I'm upgrading the 750GB HDD in my Asus N551J laptop to a (old) 240GB Intel SSD and a 2TB Seagate ST2000LM015 drive in an optical bay replacement caddy. There's no need to worry about heat, sata SSDs don't run very hot. It's only the new NVMe drives that tend to get warm.
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Mar 20, 2017 09:47
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OneStopShop posted:I'm upgrading the 750GB HDD in my Asus N551J laptop to a (old) 240GB Intel SSD and a 2TB Seagate ST2000LM015 drive in an optical bay replacement caddy. The hard drive should be fine, optical drives get fairly hot in extended use so the laptop should have enough capacity to draw away heat from the area to keep the hard drive fine. SSDs barely get hot at all unless something has gone very wrong internally, the cooling needs will essentially be neglible. Not sure what you mean by "case" though, unless you mean the physical metal shell? If you remove that the drive will both be a lot more vulnerable to damage and will dissipate heat less efficiently - the metal shell acts a heatsink. Also, removing the shell would tend to make it flop about a bit inside the drive compartment, which may wear out or outright break the connection to the computer, and you really don't want that to happen.
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Mar 20, 2017 16:00
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How can I get a triple monitor setup working? Trying with a spare HD 5450 in a Dell Optiplex 3010, running Windows 10. I can get the monitors on the DVI and HDMI to work, but the 3rd one on VGA gets no love. What do I need to achieve 3 monitors?
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Mar 20, 2017 22:50
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Wilford Cutlery posted:How can I get a triple monitor setup working? Trying with a spare HD 5450 in a Dell Optiplex 3010, running Windows 10. I can get the monitors on the DVI and HDMI to work, but the 3rd one on VGA gets no love. What do I need to achieve 3 monitors?
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Mar 20, 2017 22:54
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It doesn't have DP, so I take it we'll have to get a card with it and active DP adapter(s)?
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Mar 21, 2017 04:16
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No onboard video? Otherwise yeah.
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Mar 21, 2017 05:09
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There is onboard video, but when I tried using it I get "System Halted!" message on startup, telling me I have an add-in video card but the monitor is plugged into the onboard video 
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Mar 21, 2017 05:37
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Wilford Cutlery posted:There is onboard video, but when I tried using it I get "System Halted!" message on startup, telling me I have an add-in video card but the monitor is plugged into the onboard video Look in your BIOS for "iGPU multi monitor" or similar. By default on most systems the onboard graphics is disabled when a PCIE card is installed.
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Mar 21, 2017 06:06
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I just bought an air mouse for my media pc (simplecom rt100), I can see the power button getting accidentally getting pressed in the dark and shutting down the computer. There's no software for the remote, but is there anything I can use to remap the buttons at all? I guess it is only going to be used in kodi so I'll see if changing the bindings in there stops the power button shutting it down. E: I just disabled the power buttons in Control Panel\Power Options. Puddin fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Mar 21, 2017 |
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Mar 21, 2017 12:40
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Rexxed posted:If you have an uninterruptible power supply the included software (or LCD display) may show that information. If not, a Kill-A-Watt or other electricity meter will show you this info for $15-20. If you have a clamp style multimeter you may be able to read the AC current through the power cord from the wall. Just a followup on this, the problem was more of a DON'T loving JOSTLE THE SATA POWER/DATA CABLES FOR YOUR BOOT DRIVE YOU MORAN   situation than a lack of watts/voltage output. The size difference (length and depth) between the 780 and 980 meant it was crowding the backside of my drive bays a bit more than the 780 did and I didn't double check the seating on some of the drive cables and it only took me 2 "yank card out out/put back in/jiggle wires" passes to get everything working fine.I went and got a kill-a-watt meter anyway and max wattage from the wall while playing The Division was barely 440 watts  
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Mar 25, 2017 19:35
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