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Wasabi the J posted:what about power rollers especially for my really high ceilings? Power rollers seem like a good idea but they suck. Extension pole and a good roller is what you need for ceilings.
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Mar 23, 2017 04:10
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Thumposaurus posted:Power rollers seem like a good idea but they suck. Extension pole and a good roller is what you need for ceilings. Thanks. I hate painting.
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Mar 23, 2017 04:23
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks. Most of us do. Prep and cleanup sucks. Just buy god dang good paint. Makes life so much easier.
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Mar 23, 2017 04:29
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C-Bangin' it 
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Rectal Placenta posted:Also don't forget to use paint modifier so the paint can flow and smooth out before drying. Wasabi the J posted:Thanks.
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Mar 23, 2017 12:06
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OSU_Matthew posted:I've never heard of this before... That kind of sounds unnecessary for most of us My wife started us on a project to paint the woodwork in our house. It's a huge job and I didn't engage too much in the painting research. She found and used Flowtrol and it REALLY worked well. The trim is smooth and laid down well. It's not for every paint job, but it definitely has a use.
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Mar 23, 2017 13:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Just buy god dang good paint. Makes life so much easier. This does need to be emphasized as good advice. I changed my walls from magnolia to white and thought that the store brand bulk tubs would be fine: the paint underneath was in good condition and it was only a minor change in colour. Fuckers took me 4-6 coats per wall to get a good, solid white: had I used a brand name paint, I could have done each wall in 2 coats on the same day.
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Mar 23, 2017 13:39
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Paint is like a lot of things in life, about everyone will have different opinions. From the big box stores, I've had about the best luck with Valspar. But once you step up to Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore, holy hell what a revelation that stuff is...you're painting like Jesus once you get past the sticker shock. Absolute worst paint I've used is Behr. Only thing I would paint with that stuff is a dumpster before tossing the rest of the paint into it.
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Mar 23, 2017 14:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Paint is like a lot of things in life, about everyone will have different opinions. From the big box stores, I've had about the best luck with Valspar. Counterpoint -- I have used Sherwin Williams exclusively for over 25 years. Until recently. I paid them their blood money for their "Emerald" $70/gallon paint that I'd used before. It did not cover a yellow wall with the new paint for poo poo. I had some test patches on the wall and you could see them clearly through the SW paint. I got pissed and went to HD and bought some of Behr's best and it covered FAR better than the SW Emerald. It didn't go quite as far, but it was about 30% of the SW price, so... yeah. It's a lot of personal preference, but Behr has improved significantly in quality from what I've seen.
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Mar 23, 2017 14:59
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It's been a few years since I've used SW so I guess it doesn't surprise me quality went down while prices went up like everything else nowadays. I always found their SuperPaint to be great, but forking over the bucks was painful. They usually have a Memorial Day sale. As for Behr, the stuff I used just seemed too drat thick. You'd think that would be an asset, but when backrolling it would literally peel off the fresh paint off the wall. And it took forever for it to dry. Anyways, got a mini-remodeling of my basement going on. Replaced four doors (god I hate everything about doors), trued up some walls and need to do some crown molding. The most frustrating part of all this? Finding the right paint color. Which ironically is how this project began. Wife just wanted to paint the stairwell...and well you know how projects snowball into hell. Guess I'll try out the "compound" function of my miter saw. I hate coping inside corner joints.
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Mar 23, 2017 15:21
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I have had great luck with Sherwin Williams marine and industrial finishes. Not so great luck with their super deck. I usually wait for the 30% off coupon or the 40% off week.
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Mar 23, 2017 15:34
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I need to heat and bend some 3/8" inch round and 3/16x1" bar stock. I don't have access to an OA setup anymore (and I'm scared of having acetylene in my attached garage.) Would a MAPP torch be hot enough for the job?
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Mar 24, 2017 22:15
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Boys who love boys
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Behr is fine. The trick is to prime and then lay down two thick coats.
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Mar 25, 2017 03:16
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monsterzero posted:I need to heat and bend some 3/8" inch round and 3/16x1" bar stock. I don't have access to an OA setup anymore (and I'm scared of having acetylene in my attached garage.) Would a MAPP torch be hot enough for the job? It will be much slower, but yes it will work. A longer heat means a larger heated area and a broader bend. If it has to be super tight, have a vise and a wooden mallet handy, otherwise just do it.
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Mar 25, 2017 05:50
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Someone stole all my wrenches and sockets out of my garage, so I need to buy some replacements. Anyone have any strong feelings about 6 vs 12 point box ends on combination wrenches? I've rounded a few bolts before (brake bleeder screw stuck open yay), so I'm tempted to go with a full set of 6 points, but maybe I should buy a set of 12 points and then a few individual 6ers as needed for high torque and fragile bolts. At the very least that'll be easier to buy. Seems like no one sells 6 point sets. Planning to go with Tekton 3/8 and 1/2 socket sets. They're well reviewed on Amazon.
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Mar 26, 2017 18:40
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Went to the 100 yen store today to find they had automatic wire strippers for 200 yen (which is a thing) these things are amazing, where have they been all my crimping life? They're just the cheapy stamped metal kind like these http://www.apogeekits.com/wire_strippers_2.htm but for 200 yen I'll just buy another pair when they break.
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Mar 26, 2017 19:08
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100 yen shops are the poo poo. I have the strange ability to spend £50 at a time in them.ColdPie posted:Someone stole all my wrenches and sockets out of my garage, so I need to buy some replacements. Anyone have any strong feelings about 6 vs 12 point box ends on combination wrenches? I've rounded a few bolts before (brake bleeder screw stuck open yay), so I'm tempted to go with a full set of 6 points, but maybe I should buy a set of 12 points and then a few individual 6ers as needed for high torque and fragile bolts. At the very least that'll be easier to buy. Seems like no one sells 6 point sets. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Mar 26, 2017 |
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Mar 26, 2017 19:53
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ColdPie posted:Someone stole all my wrenches and sockets out of my garage, so I need to buy some replacements. Anyone have any strong feelings about 6 vs 12 point box ends on combination wrenches? I've rounded a few bolts before (brake bleeder screw stuck open yay), so I'm tempted to go with a full set of 6 points, but maybe I should buy a set of 12 points and then a few individual 6ers as needed for high torque and fragile bolts. At the very least that'll be easier to buy. Seems like no one sells 6 point sets. I'd recommend 12-point for wrenches, since you will likely need the extra flexibility in where to position the wrench. I like to use mostly 6-point sockets, though, because you can just turn the ratchet a little bit to fix the same problem there, and they're less likely to round something. For brake bleeders I like to do the initial crack open and final tighten with a 6-point socket, and just use the wrench for convenient open/shut of the bleeder while bleeding.
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Mar 26, 2017 22:23
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Thanks guys, sounds like 12 point is the way to go for the wrenches.
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Mar 27, 2017 01:32
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More expensive, but ratcheting box end wrenches are magical.
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Mar 27, 2017 02:01
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Wrenches are a huge black hole for me cause I want a set of open/box, offset, flare, ratcheting, and ratcheting flex head.
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Mar 27, 2017 02:42
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And Half-moon, and S-shape, and box-end offset, and a set of flare nuts, and crows feet, and 
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Mar 27, 2017 02:52
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BraveUlysses posted:Wrenches are a huge black hole for me cause I want a set of open/box, offset, flare, ratcheting, and ratcheting flex head. No crowfoot? how do you expect to ever get poo poo done? Snap on also has ratcheting crowfoot now.
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Mar 27, 2017 02:52
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ColdPie posted:Thanks guys, sounds like 12 point is the way to go for the wrenches. Yep. Most of the load are on the corner of the fasteners. Six points have thicker walls with less flex, but when using a wrench you want a ton flexibility of a 12 point for positioning and it will probably be a low torque setting. That's what Tekton ratching wrenches made no sense to me when they are six point.
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Mar 27, 2017 03:15
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ColdPie posted:Someone stole all my wrenches and sockets out of my garage, so I need to buy some replacements. Anyone have any strong feelings about 6 vs 12 point box ends on combination wrenches? I've rounded a few bolts before (brake bleeder screw stuck open yay), so I'm tempted to go with a full set of 6 points, but maybe I should buy a set of 12 points and then a few individual 6ers as needed for high torque and fragile bolts. At the very least that'll be easier to buy. Seems like no one sells 6 point sets. Goddamn, that really sucks... My condolences. I can't imagine how I'd even replace half my poo poo if someone did the same to me. How'd it happen? Any ideas on what to do to stop it from happening again? If you're looking at sockets and stuff, I'd get a 200 piece mechanics set like this one: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mechanics-Tool-Set-185-Piece-H185MTSN/203203976 It comes with virtually everything, 12 pt, 6pt, 1/2", 3/8", 1/4" stuff in one go with a convenient case. You should be able to find it a lot cheaper though... That's the same set my dad gave me a few years back and I actually like it a lot better than the everything else I've accumulated because it's so convenient. Swap out the wrenches for ratcheting ones and that covers 99% what you'd ever need. If you're worried about 6 point sockets and rounding nuts, pick up a pair of these and never have that problem again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SBBD/
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Mar 27, 2017 04:12
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Powershift posted:No crowfoot? how do you expect to ever get poo poo done? I've never ever ever ever needed them? looks like gear wrench has a ratcheting crow foot set too oh and i forgot stubby ratcheting wrenches, got a set of those too i've been re-arranging my toolbox and bought some kaizen foam to shadowbox my tools, which is good but now i'm going OCD on it and trying to make sure there's room for all my sets and any future tools i might buy, cutting everything perfectly...oh and now i've inventoried everything and know what i'm missing so that bothers me too
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Mar 27, 2017 05:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:Goddamn, that really sucks... My condolences. I can't imagine how I'd even replace half my poo poo if someone did the same to me. How'd it happen? Any ideas on what to do to stop it from happening again? Close the garage door. Frankly, I'm lucky they didn't take more, like the stack of Mazda wheels sitting right there. Thanks for the specific suggestions.
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Mar 27, 2017 12:12
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jamal posted:More expensive, but ratcheting box end wrenches are magical. It always ends up these fit on only 3 of the 12 things I need to wrench. I leave my garage open all the time but no one ever wants my crap or I just have never noticed stuff missing. I think the key is boxes and boxes of garbage to discourage rummaging.
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Mar 27, 2017 14:27
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jamal posted:More expensive, but ratcheting box end wrenches are magical. This opinion is correct and I would like to commend you for having it. I bought my first ratcheting combo wrench for one specific job and after using that, I've replaced almost all of my combos with ratcheting versions. It's beautiful.
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Mar 27, 2017 14:34
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:This opinion is correct and I would like to commend you for having it. I bought my first ratcheting combo wrench for one specific job and after using that, I've replaced almost all of my combos with ratcheting versions. It's beautiful. I really like ratcheting wrenches for some things, but you really need normal box end too. There are so many things on my subaru that are too small clearance for a ratcheting box end to fit. My two most used wrench sets are these: http://www.armstrongtools.com/wrenches/box-end/armstrong-53-843-7-pc-12-point-full-polish-15-offset-box-wrench-set.html and these: https://smile.amazon.com/GearWrench-85215-Metric-QuadBox-Ratcheting/dp/B001M0O1SO?sa-no-redirect=1 I loving love the quad boxes for being able to do almost anything with just a handful of tools. But when its too low profile or short, then I get the standard double box ends out. On 6 pt vs 12, Im strongly in favor of 6. I hardly ever need the indexing of a 12 point, that's why I have a ratchet anyway.
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Mar 27, 2017 17:47
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True, the ratcheting boxes are bulkier than the standards. I've yet to run into a situation where the ratchets are too big (just cursed myself there), but I still have all the standard wrenches in a tool bag if the need arises. They've been demoted to JY work but they'll probably never actually get retired.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:33
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I work at a place that has a calibration lab. While much of the work they do with torque wrenches is for FAA or military aviation people, I dropped off my insultingly cheap $20 harbor freight torque wrench for calibration. Turns out it measures accurate to 1.1% in the upper 80% of its scale. Like most click type torque wrenches, it isn't as accurate in the lower 20% of the scale. That suits me just fine as I really only use this thing occasionally for wheel torque.  Our calibration manager was impressed. He explained that while it's accurate, it wouldn't stand up to the daily rigors that a snap-on is built to deal with. Using the thing 80 times a day - the harbor freight wouldn't last. But since it's for home use for me? Perfect.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:25
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0toShifty posted:I work at a place that has a calibration lab. While much of the work they do with torque wrenches is for FAA or military aviation people, I dropped off my insultingly cheap $20 harbor freight torque wrench for calibration. Turns out it measures accurate to 1.1% in the upper 80% of its scale. Is that a compaq presario keyboard? Is this post from 2001?
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Mar 28, 2017 03:30
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Most QA labs get the old shitboxen and leftover peripherals.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:44
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CarForumPoster posted:Is that a compaq presario keyboard? Is this post from 2001? It is. It's attached to a Deskpro running Windows 98. It's just the interface for a FPGA tester.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:52
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CarForumPoster posted:Is that a compaq presario keyboard? Is this post from 2001?
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Mar 28, 2017 04:26
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nmfree posted:internet i n t e r n e t Whats the check mark do?
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Mar 29, 2017 00:32
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CarForumPoster posted:i n t e r n e t
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Mar 29, 2017 01:50
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CarForumPoster posted:i n t e r n e t Checks internet torque accuracy.
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Mar 29, 2017 02:10
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Don't build them like they used to 
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Mar 29, 2017 02:16
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Can someone give me the tl;'dr version of floor transmission jacks please. Mainly in regards to attempting ripping out a 4L60E and probably going with a HF unit for it. Car in question is a 95 Caprice wagon. I can shoehorn the car into the garage. She's a big girl. Next up, vertical lift. I have four jack stands. Mismatched pairs from front to back. In short, the bigger boys will be up front on the frame rails, the smaller set will be in the back on frame rails. I guess I should check extension lengths but shouldn't be off by too much. But no matter what, I'm going to end up with a minor slope and asking if a transmission jack can futz around with the angle to get it attached again. And of course will the jack + bellhousing height will clear the frame rails?
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Apr 1, 2017 04:32
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