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He's that dude that scammed the art world into buying random paint splatters, right?
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Mar 23, 2017 06:40
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It doesn't look like anything. Surely it's not art.
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Mar 23, 2017 06:44
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He's no Norman Rockwell, that's for drat sure.
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Mar 23, 2017 06:58
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:He's that dude that scammed the art world into buying random paint splatters, right? Not quite random https://arstechnica.com/science/2015/02/computer-algorithm-can-accurately-identify-jackson-pollock-paintings/
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Mar 23, 2017 11:53
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Cat Face Joe posted:Any material is fine. These would be for Infinity miniatures and to identify certain units as paramedics or carrying the devices for expanding infowar range. Medic bags for the miniatures, tech baubles for the bases. Zinge makes stuff like that, and you can buy it from the US, but they are based in the UK. Anvil does too I think.
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Mar 23, 2017 11:58
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Star Man posted:It doesn't look like anything. Surely it's not art.  you must be a hoot at parties.Next, tell me about how Robert Rauschenberg and Barnett Newman's work "invoke the sheer possibility of experience".
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Mar 23, 2017 16:04
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Cat Face Joe posted:These would be for Infinity miniatures and to identify certain units as paramedics
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Mar 23, 2017 16:27
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signalnoise posted:Not quite random
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Mar 23, 2017 16:42
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The airbrush I'm getting back from my father is a siphon feed rather than a gravity feed - from what I can gather this means that I'm going to be shooting and wasting a hole bunch of paint, so for now I think I'm going to use it for the big stuff - bases and horses. Must I use airbrush thinners, or can I get away with some combination of water and alchohol? I have Vallejo model/game colour, Coat D'Arms and Citadel and would rather not buy a whole airbrush paint set if possible.
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Mar 23, 2017 19:33
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Ilor posted:What this tells me is that we now have an algorithm that can be used to perfectly replicate Pollock's style. The guy who wrote this software is probably already creating forgeries. The fact that he released the source code means that now you too can create forgeries. Recognition and replication are very different things
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Mar 23, 2017 20:01
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Southern Heel posted:The airbrush I'm getting back from my father is a siphon feed rather than a gravity feed - from what I can gather this means that I'm going to be shooting and wasting a hole bunch of paint, so for now I think I'm going to use it for the big stuff - bases and horses. Must I use airbrush thinners, or can I get away with some combination of water and alchohol? I have Vallejo model/game colour, Coat D'Arms and Citadel and would rather not buy a whole airbrush paint set if possible. A whole bunch of companies sell generic Acrylic/Enamel/Lacquer/Etc. thinners. While brands usually work best with their specific thinner it's honestly kind of a scam. Just go to a craft store and look in their paint/airbrush aisle, you'll find a beefy bottle of thinner there. Don't thin with just water or alcohol. It just won't make for an even coat.
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Mar 23, 2017 20:46
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Neurolimal posted:A whole bunch of companies sell generic Acrylic/Enamel/Lacquer/Etc. thinners. While brands usually work best with their specific thinner it's honestly kind of a scam. Just go to a craft store and look in their paint/airbrush aisle, you'll find a beefy bottle of thinner there. Thanks!
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Mar 23, 2017 21:42
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signalnoise posted:Recognition and replication are very different things
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Mar 23, 2017 21:46
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:This turned out really well! As did the rest of the model, but the fire in particular. I'd dirty up the broadside a bit. The frostiness just doesn't look right with the rest of the model looking so smooth and clean.
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Mar 23, 2017 22:00
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signalnoise posted:Zinge makes stuff like that, and you can buy it from the US, but they are based in the UK. Anvil does too I think. Pierzak posted:Get some 40k space marine belt pouches, either small-type or cut to size, paint a red cross or equivalent, like on the 2LFT Minuteman. Will check these, thanks.
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Mar 23, 2017 22:08
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:
I hate myself too much to go to parties.
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Mar 24, 2017 01:40
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So this is done except the part where I'm terrified of freehanding those runes from fear of screwing up the banner.  Also need to highlight the base. It's reaper bone shadow with a heavy wash but using aged bone just makes it look like I rubbed the paint off around the edges instead of a highlight. Also what's good for highlighting GW Armageddon Dust?
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Mar 24, 2017 01:56
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mango sentinel posted:So this is done except the part where I'm terrified of freehanding those runes from fear of screwing up the banner. That's a good looking ratte dude. For Armageddon Dust, I advise a wash of Agrax Earthshade and then drybrush it with Tyrant Skull, or their non-GW equivalents.
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Mar 24, 2017 02:06
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mango sentinel posted:So this is done except the part where I'm terrified of freehanding those runes from fear of screwing up the banner. You could give it a good clear coat with something like future floor finish. You then just re-wet and strip off any messed up freehanding.
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Mar 24, 2017 06:56
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JackMann posted:I'd dirty up the broadside a bit. The frostiness just doesn't look right with the rest of the model looking so smooth and clean. You're absolutely right. I probably should have prefaced with my intentions. I mentioned in an earlier post after I re-painted the army that I went way too heavy on the "cool effects" which kinda got lost in the model. My intention is to do a nice and clean base paint job, then once I've become more comfortable with more advanced techniques, to re attempt the finer details like battle damage and subtle highlighting. This is a bit of an example of that, wherein I attempted a frost effect on the radiator. I have gotten a bit better at doing object source lighting, glass lenses, and wanted to give this a shot. But yes, I agree it does look out of place. Now that I think about it, I haven't even glued the disc thing onto it's back yet. I forgot to prime it when I was priming other stuff.  I really want to find a way of adding subtle details like this to the models besides battle damage or highlighting, but I don't know what. Maybe dust? But the bases I've been doing is mainly a grey barren landscape with bits of green tufts. Tomorrow I'll post a few pics of the basses, and I would love to hear some tips on what I could do to spruce up the models a bit without going overboard.Edit: It finally came!  
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Mar 24, 2017 |
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Mar 24, 2017 07:03
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Getting back into painting after a ...i think 3 years? hiatus. Most of my old GW paints are dried, and now that the color line has changed I'm going to have to rebuy quite a few paints, ugh. Does anything similar to the old GW inks exist? The old glossy washes? Or is it better to just use standard washes and apply a glossy finish to the parts I want to look wet?
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Mar 24, 2017 18:30
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All the shades say "GLOSS" in inch-tall letters now so
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Mar 24, 2017 18:39
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HebrewMagic posted:All the shades say "GLOSS" in inch-tall letters now so Yeah all the shades have both matte and gloss version.
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Mar 24, 2017 18:43
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Geoff Zahn posted:Does anything similar to the old GW inks exist? Pierzak fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Mar 24, 2017 |
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Mar 24, 2017 19:09
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Pierzak posted:Coat d'Arms (sp?) is pretty much the ancient soft-lid GW pots. Friendly reminder: The hues are identical but honestly the coverage is pretty shite compared to Vallejo!
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Mar 24, 2017 19:22
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Weird question but does anyone know if there are 30mm scale pianos? They can go up to 50mm, but look like they are playable by 30mm models? This one gremlin leader's story in Malifaux is that he took over an airship and uses it to drop cargo on the battlefield to create cover.
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Mar 24, 2017 20:12
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Aside from a couple of exceptions the 'new' washes are so much better than the inks ever were Try them out instead of tracking down the coat d'arms stuff
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Mar 24, 2017 20:19
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I like the new washes (well, at the least the range I tried a few years ago), I just wanted to see if there were glossy ones for a couple wet looking effects I wanted. Thanks for the info on the new range, didn't realize they updated the GW washes... and of course upped the price.
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Mar 24, 2017 20:38
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EVIL Gibson posted:Weird question but does anyone know if there are 30mm scale pianos? They can go up to 50mm, but look like they are playable by 30mm models? Possibly the wrong answer: Lego minifig piano. https://www.firestartoys.com/Shop/Minifigure-Accessories/Minifigure-Instruments/8962-LEGO-~-Piano-and-Stool.html Lego figures are not that far off of 28mm scale (I forget the exact scale, maybe 25mm?), and apart from maybe checking eBay for some specialist resin casters, this was the first thing I thought of. Obviously it'll need a bit of work to de-Lego it, but it could be a decent starting point.
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Mar 24, 2017 20:53
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Skarsnik posted:Aside from a couple of exceptions the 'new' washes are so much better than the inks ever were They aren't anyway near the same things. Washes and inks are used for totally different painting techniques, one creates gradients while the other primarily fills depressions.
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Mar 24, 2017 21:13
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Got some more work done last weekend, much happier with it compared to what it was when I started.
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Mar 24, 2017 21:19
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El Estrago Bonito posted:They aren't anyway near the same things. Washes and inks are used for totally different painting techniques, one creates gradients while the other primarily fills depressions. In the context of the GW range yes they are
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Mar 24, 2017 21:26
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ijyt posted:Got some more work done last weekend, much happier with it compared to what it was when I started. How on earth.... Thats fuckin amazing. Only thing that would make it better is weird hosed up goat eyes. 
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Mar 24, 2017 21:46
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:How on earth.... Thats fuckin amazing. Only thing that would make it better is weird hosed up goat eyes. Looking at goat eyes made me realize it is way easier to paint goat eyes than human. How don't have to think about half closed eyes because the rectangular pupil is small and in the center
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Mar 24, 2017 22:23
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I was going through my box of random models and found a handful of these guys. Anyone know what they are or where they are from? I'm not sure what to use them for besides painting practice.
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Mar 26, 2017 17:32
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Geoff Zahn posted:I was going through my box of random models and found a handful of these guys. Anyone know what they are or where they are from? I'm not sure what to use them for besides painting practice. You might be able to glean where they're from by the tab attached to their feet. Most companies put either their name, the name of the model, or the person who sculpted it on the tab.
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Mar 26, 2017 18:37
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I think those are Rogue Trader era 40k Imperial Guardsmen.
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Mar 26, 2017 18:45
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Oh right! Completely forgot about the tabs, thanks. It said FASA98 and after a little searching they appear to be Union Troops from a game called VOR The Maelstrom.
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Mar 26, 2017 19:10
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Set a goal of finished a model in a single sitting. I take a lot of breaks when I paint and something that can be done in a day usually takes a week or two of evening time to get done. The quality isn't quite as the troll bouncer I showed last week, but I'm please with how he came out. 
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Mar 27, 2017 04:14
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I'm feeling better about my ability to churn out rank and file quickly - but I'm wondering if counter and chit-based games might be in my future  Southern Heel posted:Here are my speed-painted early-modern infantry and cavalry - the former in the London "Trayned Band" Militia Red regiment, and the latter in 'CAVALRY TROOPER' from Osprey books (orange and blue wtf):
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Mar 27, 2017 14:49
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