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A friend of mine has Windows 7. He is looking to get a new scanner, but we're having problems having finding a standalone. He is cool with a printer combo, but regardless he wants one that has a very quick scan. I checked online, but was unable to find information about scanner speed. Does anyone have any recommendations with a budget of around 300?
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Mar 27, 2017 01:02
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Watrick posted:A friend of mine has Windows 7. He is looking to get a new scanner, but we're having problems having finding a standalone. He is cool with a printer combo, but regardless he wants one that has a very quick scan. I checked online, but was unable to find information about scanner speed. Does anyone have any recommendations with a budget of around 300? What does he want to scan? There are basically three categories of consumer/light-office scanner: - Cheap flatbeds integrated into AIO printers. May or may not have a weaksauce document feeder or duplexing capability. Like the printer component in AIOs, they're for home users who might need to scan a form or something occasionally but aren't designed for regular heavy use - Photography-oriented flatbeds. These are more niche than they used to be, because most people who just want "a scanner" get an AIO now. Comparatively slow but good image quality - Office document scanners with sheet feed that work like printers in reverse. They're ADF-only, optimize speed over pixel-perfect quality, and move paper almost as fast as a printer Assuming your friend wants the third type to quickly turn big piles of letter/legal/A4 size documents into PDFs, you could do a lot worse in your budget than the Brother ADS-2000e. The Fujitsu ScanSnap series are the gold standard in this space, but they typically run around $400-500 to start, so they might be a bit out of your price range.
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Mar 27, 2017 02:56
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I use a program called DocScan on my iPhone 7 and it has completely eliminated my need for a dedicated/AIO scanner. I mainly use it to scan in receipts for expense reports but it performs well on full size forms. There's plenty of reasons to own a dedicated scanner but for paperwork I'm completely happy with the free app.
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Mar 27, 2017 03:37
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Space Gopher posted:What does he want to scan? Buca di Bepis posted:I use a program called DocScan on my iPhone 7 and it has completely eliminated my need for a dedicated/AIO scanner. I mainly use it to scan in receipts for expense reports but it performs well on full size forms. Thank you for the help. He said has no interest in an app. He doesn't want one with a feed because it's a combination of documents, receipts which may be crumpled (don't ask me why), and occasional photographs. He seems pretty dead set on a flat bed. Edit: he said that the priority is speed. He still wants decent quality, but would like it to complete scanning in five seconds or less. Watrick fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 05:20
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Watrick posted:Thanks for the response. The question in the hardware thread, so to not poo poo up the thread, I want to continue this over there. But basically he just wants the scan speed to be as fast as possible. The image quality isn't the main priority. He just bought one today and he is complaining that the speed in which it scans takes to long. He said he is used to it taking five seconds or less.
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Mar 27, 2017 05:27
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Crossposting from the part-picking thread:ufarn posted:Apparently, my Dark Base 900 doesn't have automatic fan control ("4-pin PWM Connector to mobo"), but can I buy a third-party solution instead?
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Mar 27, 2017 09:42
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ufarn posted:Crossposting from the part-picking thread: You can buy things like PWM splitters if you're looking to control multiple case fans with PWM from one motherboard PWM controlled header like this: https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ You may just be able to plug all of the fans into the motherboard fan headers and skip having your case do anything, however.
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Mar 27, 2017 10:07
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Rexxed posted:You can buy things like PWM splitters if you're looking to control multiple case fans with PWM from one motherboard PWM controlled header like this: quote:Hi, I have a new system I am building with a be quiet! Dark Base 900 and an Asus Z170-Pro motherboard. The case has a special PCB for the chassis fan control and it plugs in with what looks like an internal SATA connector. The problem is, I can't find a spot on the motherboard to plug that in. Can anyone help? Thanks. quote:Nevermind I figured it out. It doesn't connect to the motherboard. It uses a power supply SATA connector to go to the power supply. I took some photos them just in case:  This looks pretty similar to the Pro's fan control. I also can't find the cable that's supposed to be plugged directly into the motherboard:  I guess I can try to follow either of the cables and see if I get the right one, but looks like it's going to be a total pain. I wanted that Silverstone, too, but the selection in the UK store is really limited as always. Can't even find a decent, simple four-pin splitter here.
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Mar 27, 2017 11:04
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ufarn posted:I read some background like this: So it's basically a fan speed controller that doesn't take a signal from the motherboard, but instead uses a front panel switch. If you're handy with soldering you could populate the empty header on the top left to maaaaaybe get that functionality or replace it with something else (how about https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-PWHUB_01-system-fan-hub/dp/B00M0R05WE ). Or, like I said, pull the fan plugs out of the controller and plug them into appropriate chassis fan plugs on the motherboard. Many motherboard fan headers will voltage control fans even without PWM support.
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Mar 27, 2017 11:25
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Rexxed posted:So it's basically a fan speed controller that doesn't take a signal from the motherboard, but instead uses a front panel switch. If you're handy with soldering you could populate the empty header on the top left to maaaaaybe get that functionality or replace it with something else (how about https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-PWHUB_01-system-fan-hub/dp/B00M0R05WE ). Or, like I said, pull the fan plugs out of the controller and plug them into appropriate chassis fan plugs on the motherboard. Many motherboard fan headers will voltage control fans even without PWM support. * take the three 4-pin plugs on the left * hook them up to a splitter * connect the splitter to the motherboard's 4-pin (PWM) chassis fan port (CHA_FAN1)? The splitter you linked doesn't ship to my country, but I guess I could splurge on something with support for a bunch of fans, assuming I don't just sell this dumb case. I noticed it's supposed to to to the CPU_FAN port, so that would mean that I would plug my three (front, buttom, rear) fans to the splitter as well as my heatsink fan, and plug it into the CPU_FAN port instead of CHA_FAN1? I have three fan plugs as well as the one cpu, so I would need 4 four pins, and I my current old mobo just has PWR_FAN, CPU_FAN, CHA_FAN1, and CHA_FAN2. ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 11:52
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fishmech posted:The Canon should handle that if he doesn't need to scan anything larger than a4 or letter paper. Especially when you knock the resolution down to a more typical 300 dpi to match an average printer, it should be finished in seconds He ended up picking up a Canon. I'm not sure which model, but he seems to be content with the speed for now. Thank you (and everyone else) for your help.
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Mar 28, 2017 15:43
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Every once in a while my USB peripherals power cycle or something. It's really fuckin annoying. I have 2 USB 3 hubs at my desk coming from the back of my PC, one of which goes through a USB switcher, both have their own power supplies, but it feels like at some point my USB poo poo gets like, overloaded or something? If I am using a USB bluetooth adapter, it affects my bluetooth poo poo too. I want to get more and more towards wireless stuff though, would this be a problem if I used an internal bluetooth card? I have no idea what it causing this but losing peripheral control randomly is annoying as gently caress, and I want to fix it. I need to be able to switch my peripherals between my personal desktop PC and my work laptop on the fly though.
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Mar 29, 2017 15:56
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When I turn on the ceiling light in my office my Mac Pro wakes from sleep. It's plugged into a UPS. Why does it do this?
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Mar 29, 2017 17:02
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FCKGW posted:When I turn on the ceiling light in my office my Mac Pro wakes from sleep. It's plugged into a UPS. Why does it do this?
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Mar 29, 2017 20:30
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signalnoise posted:Every once in a while my USB peripherals power cycle or something. It's really fuckin annoying. I have 2 USB 3 hubs at my desk coming from the back of my PC, one of which goes through a USB switcher, both have their own power supplies, but it feels like at some point my USB poo poo gets like, overloaded or something? If I am using a USB bluetooth adapter, it affects my bluetooth poo poo too. What devices do you have plugged into your hubs? What kind of hubs are they? Are your devices losing power (mouse laser turns off, phone stops charging), or losing connection to the computer? Does it happen only with your desktop, or both computers? An add-on bluetooth card would bypass a USB hub issue, yes.
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Mar 30, 2017 09:40
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signalnoise posted:I have 2 USB 3 hubs at my desk coming from the back of my PC, one of which goes through a USB switcher, both have their own power supplies, but it feels like at some point my USB poo poo gets like, overloaded or something? Have you tried eliminating the A/B switch just as a troubleshooting step? At a previous job I had to use two computers on their own separate secure networks and had a Logitech keyboard & mouse connected to a single unifying receiver that connected to a cheap A/B switch, and even handling a relatively simple task like input devices it was still fairly buggy and at least once a day I'd have to unplug the switch from both computers to restore correct functionality.
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Mar 30, 2017 20:27
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Actuarial Fables posted:What devices do you have plugged into your hubs? What kind of hubs are they? Are your devices losing power (mouse laser turns off, phone stops charging), or losing connection to the computer? Does it happen only with your desktop, or both computers? Just my desktop, but complete power off. Even with hubs that have power supplies, everything that doesn't have its own battery loses power. Everything that does have a battery (wireless stuff) loses its connection. Geoj posted:Have you tried eliminating the A/B switch just as a troubleshooting step? At a previous job I had to use two computers on their own separate secure networks and had a Logitech keyboard & mouse connected to a single unifying receiver that connected to a cheap A/B switch, and even handling a relatively simple task like input devices it was still fairly buggy and at least once a day I'd have to unplug the switch from both computers to restore correct functionality. I have not because the collection of wires behind my desk is daunting. But I suppose it's something I could try over the weekend.
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Mar 30, 2017 20:55
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I have an HTPC that's built around an ASRock Q1900-ITX mainboard (embedded Celeron J1900 solution, passively cooled). The only other internal component is a 120GB Samsung SSD. Tertiary components are a FLIRC and a wireless USB Logitech Keyboard/Touchpad to control it. It's all powered by a 150W PicoPSU with a 102W power brick. My question is, if I get a PCIe 1x to 16x adapter, and throw in a low-profile Radeon 6570 I have laying around doing nothing, will that be too much load on the PicoPSU/power brick? The requirements on the 6570 box say it recommends a 400W PSU, but part of me believes that's overcompensating for a bit. I just don't know if the 150W PicoPSU and 102W brick have a enough juice.
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Apr 2, 2017 07:08
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teagone posted:I have an HTPC that's built around an ASRock Q1900-ITX mainboard (embedded Celeron J1900 solution, passively cooled). The only other internal component is a 120GB Samsung SSD. Tertiary components are a FLIRC and a wireless USB Logitech Keyboard/Touchpad to control it. It's all powered by a 150W PicoPSU with a 102W power brick. My question is, if I get a PCIe 1x to 16x adapter, and throw in a low-profile Radeon 6570 I have laying around doing nothing, will that be too much load on the PicoPSU/power brick? The requirements on the 6570 box say it recommends a 400W PSU, but part of me believes that's overcompensating for a bit. I just don't know if the 150W PicoPSU and 102W brick have a enough juice.
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Apr 2, 2017 16:34
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I need to buy some headphones for gaming, budget under 150 bucks. Any suggestions? Where do i start looking.
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Apr 2, 2017 16:45
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Killstick posted:I need to buy some headphones for gaming, budget under 150 bucks. Any suggestions? Where do i start looking. Steelseries Arctis is my recommendation. 150 gets you the top of the line wireless, below that is not wireless. The Thing that sets this one apart as my recommendation, aside from having stellar battery life and comfort, is that it actually shows up as 3 devices instead of 2. Instead of just being mic + headphones, it's mic + headphones(game) and headphones(chat). There's a dial on the headset itself for the Arctis 7, or as a USB dial otherwise, that allows you to balance the volume between game and chat so if your voice chat is coming through too low compared to game volume, you can just move the dial a little and fix it instead of changing settings in your game or voice chat program. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 2, 2017 |
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Apr 2, 2017 16:48
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signalnoise posted:Steelseries Arctis is my recommendation. 150 gets you the top of the line wireless, below that is not wireless. The Thing that sets this one apart as my recommendation, aside from having stellar battery life and comfort, is that it actually shows up as 3 devices instead of 2. Instead of just being mic + headphones, it's mic + headphones(game) and headphones(chat). There's a dial on the headset itself for the Arctis 7, or as a USB dial otherwise, that allows you to balance the volume between game and chat so if your voice chat is coming through too low compared to game volume, you can just move the dial a little and fix it instead of changing settings in your game or voice chat program. Thanks, ordered.
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Apr 2, 2017 18:43
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teagone posted:I have an HTPC that's built around an ASRock Q1900-ITX mainboard (embedded Celeron J1900 solution, passively cooled). The only other internal component is a 120GB Samsung SSD. Tertiary components are a FLIRC and a wireless USB Logitech Keyboard/Touchpad to control it. It's all powered by a 150W PicoPSU with a 102W power brick. My question is, if I get a PCIe 1x to 16x adapter, and throw in a low-profile Radeon 6570 I have laying around doing nothing, will that be too much load on the PicoPSU/power brick? The requirements on the 6570 box say it recommends a 400W PSU, but part of me believes that's overcompensating for a bit. I just don't know if the 150W PicoPSU and 102W brick have a enough juice. A 6570 even on a full 16x lane isn't going to be much more capable than whatever that has onboard and bottlenecked at 1x with a low power CPU behind it it's probably going to be a wash or at best a very small percentage better. Basically unless there's a hardware issue with the onboard graphics that allows the system to function otherwise I can't think of any benefit to installing a discreet graphics card.
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Apr 2, 2017 18:58
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Alereon posted:The Radeon 6570 has a 60W TDP. It seems like heavy load but that it would probably work. Brilliant, thanks. Geoj posted:A 6570 even on a full 16x lane isn't going to be much more capable than whatever that has onboard and bottlenecked at 1x with a low power CPU behind it it's probably going to be a wash or at best a very small percentage better. I'm giving the HTPC to my godson for his dorm as I built a new one for myself. The onboard Intel graphics are perfectly fine, but games on Steam run not that great, naturally. He's not a super hardcore gamer mind you; he really only likes the casual/indie titles like Speedrunners, Castle Crashers, Fez, etc. But even something like Jackbox Party Pack can run a little slow at times on the BayTrail iGPU, haha. A 1x to 16x riser is only like $10 or so on Amazon, so figured it might be worth a shot to see if those kind of games could see a performance increase with a discrete GPU over the iGPU. [edit] Looks like someone actually benchmarked my particular scenario (pairing up a low power Celeron J1900 with a discrete GPU) and came up with some interesting results: http://www.rkblog.rk.edu.pl/w/p/improving-celeron-j1900-gaming-performance-connecting-external-graphics-card-pcie-x1-slot/ teagone fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 2, 2017 |
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Apr 2, 2017 21:57
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So trying to spruce up an old system I got 2 x 4gb sticks of "amd only" ddr2, but I can't get the system to post with it installed in any configuration. I'm currently testing it in a p5q e with a q9550. I don't have any other ram handy but it was fine previously. If I leave both sticks out I get the proper bios error beeps. With any of the ram fitted in any slot I get power but no post beeps or output. Tried resetting the bios but no avail. Anyone got any other suggestions? I'm yet to actually try it in my friends pc however, so maybe it'll work. Though hers is the same motherboard just a model or two down (p5q l) so if it doesn't work on mine i dont expect it to work on hers. I'm sure in the bios there was a mention of turning on support extended ram, but obviously I can't actually get into the bios right now to check.
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Apr 4, 2017 16:00
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Captain Hair posted:So trying to spruce up an old system I got 2 x 4gb sticks of "amd only" ddr2, but I can't get the system to post with it installed in any configuration. According to various forum posts, the AMD-only high density DDR2 includes an additional address bit that the intel chipset doesn't handle. This is the first one I could find to a reference to information from an actual memory seller (OCZ): https://superuser.com/questions/1048215/can-amd-only-ram-really-restricted-to-amd-chipsets-and-if-so-why quote:It is true that for the AM2 chipset (DDR2) and early on in the AM3 (DDR3) chipset era, AMD supported higher density RAM than Intel did. Intel started supporting the higher density RAM, but I can't find the exact chipset on which it was introduced.
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Apr 5, 2017 02:02
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Not sure if this is the right thread but I'll cross post it anyway. quote:I can't get my PSVR to work with my RX480 in Trinus. I followed all the instructions in the program, but can't get steam to recognize the headset. I realize it's beta software and that I may be just SOL, but has anyone had any experience with this?
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Apr 5, 2017 08:50
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Rexxed posted:According to various forum posts, the AMD-only high density DDR2 includes an additional address bit that the intel chipset doesn't handle. This is the first one I could find to a reference to information from an actual memory seller (OCZ): Hmm thanks for that. After much reading I'm still no real further forwards in figuring it all out. I've found a few posts on the Internet explaining it all in a bit more detail too. But it all seems a bit messy. I've just tried the new ram in her system but nope, passes the bios fine even with all 12gb installed, but once it tried to actually use it like load windows or express gate everything goes to hell. Usually resulting in a blue screen. Shame as the ram is picked up fine by the bios. I guess I'll just sell it on and buy stuff that's an identical match for what she has now. Thanks 
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Apr 5, 2017 18:43
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Soooooo here I am excited that Yooka Laylee (which I Kickstarted) is around the corner. But lo and behold the minimum requirements demand of me either an Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz or AMD FX-8150 3.6 GHz. All I am currently rocking is a Phenom II x4 840 on an ASUS M4A87TD EVO mobo. I do not have the budget kicking around at present for a major pricey DDR4-compatible PC overhaul, so that leads me to this desperate query: is it possible for me to overclock this CPU to 3.6 GHz at all? I have never OCd anything before and it honestly seems way above my ken. Some threads online mention it being possible but http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/271144-29-phenom it's talking a lot of nonsense. FSB? Vcore? Peggy I don't even know that these things are. Anyway I fiddled with the mobo settings and now it says my CPU clockspeed is 3.7 or so.... dang! What an upgrade, maybe. Should I be worried it will burst into flames now or what? What are some things I should keep a look out for- also, do you think this means I can run that dern video game? Lemma fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Apr 8, 2017 |
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Apr 8, 2017 07:16
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I don't know if this should be posted in the monitor thread, tv thread or GPU thread so I'll try here... I recently got a Samsung KS8500 and I am using it as a second monitor along side my gaming consoles. I'm on Windows 7 and my GPU is a HD Radeon 7850. If I set the TV up as a 4k display on my PC settings, it's about an inch too wide on both sides. So if I maximize an internet window for example, there is a lot of area not shown on the left and right side of the display making it unusable since that's where a lot of the navigation is. My previous TV, a 42" LG, did the same thing but my video card gave an HDMI scaling option that fixed the issue. This option isn't available with my 4k tv and even if it was I assume I probably wouldn't want to use it. I tried googling it but search results were all over the place. I'm assuming it's an issue with my video card being old? I'm curious why it would offer the specific resolutions for both TV's but then have it display too wide. Any fixes?
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Apr 8, 2017 19:40
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Lemma posted:Soooooo here I am excited that Yooka Laylee (which I Kickstarted) is around the corner. But lo and behold the minimum requirements demand of me either an Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz or AMD FX-8150 3.6 GHz. All I am currently rocking is a Phenom II x4 840 on an ASUS M4A87TD EVO mobo. It should maybe be able to run the game, though probably not great - remember that these are minimum requirements after all. Here's Passmark's comparisons of performance of the chips involved, your CPU and the two CPUs recommended for a minimum:  katkillad2 posted:
Dig around in your AMD driver settings, there may be an Overscan option that got turned on by mistake. Also the scaling option may be buried in the TV settings under a different name - on another brand TV I just got it turns out that they have two modes for input, "video" which does the overscan scaling and looks like rear end and "graphic" which just shows the normal signal without overscan fuckery.
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Apr 8, 2017 20:35
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Lemma posted:Soooooo here I am excited that Yooka Laylee (which I Kickstarted) is around the corner. But lo and behold the minimum requirements demand of me either an Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz or AMD FX-8150 3.6 GHz. All I am currently rocking is a Phenom II x4 840 on an ASUS M4A87TD EVO mobo.
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Apr 8, 2017 20:35
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katkillad2 posted:I don't know if this should be posted in the monitor thread, tv thread or GPU thread so I'll try here... AMD cards - at least older ones - generally default to 8% overscan when using HDMI (or DVI->HDMI cables on the DVI port) because it was needed to compensate for inherent underscan on some old displays and someone at AMD decided it would be better to have to fix black bars on normal screens than to be unable to see the edges of the desktop on an underscanning one. I've only ever seen this with 1080p and 720p screens (haven't tried 4k over HDMI with AMD) but hopefully your issue has the same fix. You should be able to find an overscan slider in the GUI for GPU settings - whatever replaced Catalyst Control Center, I don't remember the name - and drop it all the way down to fix your problem. If you're saying that slider's not there though... It can also be fixed in the registry (HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/SYSTEM/CurrentControlSet/Video/<hex identifier>/0000/<something like DALR6DFPI[resolution][refresh rate]>) by finding the byte that's an 08 by default and changing it to 00. This needs to be done for all resolution/refresh rate combinations you wish to fix. This is the only way to fix this issue for cards older than the 5000-series in Windows 8.1 or 10, which is why I know about it - I have a 3450 and a 4850 which still work great but without this fix they kind of suck if you want to use HDMI. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 00:23
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Lemma posted:Soooooo here I am excited that Yooka Laylee (which I Kickstarted) is around the corner. But lo and behold the minimum requirements demand of me either an Intel Core i5-2500 3.3 GHz or AMD FX-8150 3.6 GHz. All I am currently rocking is a Phenom II x4 840 on an ASUS M4A87TD EVO mobo. The long and short of it is that your CPU is pretty hopelessly out of date. That was not even a high end CPU... in 2012. You're welcome to give it a shot but you probably aren't going to have much luck. Upgrading to DDR4 is not going to kill you. You're going to pay a fair amount extra nowadays for a DDR3 board - just because it's a legacy system that's years out of date. Sorry to say it but that's how it is - upgrading and flipping your kit is probably only going to be a little bit extra vs hunting down legacy parts. Best option is either a Z170 motherboard + G4560 or G4620 CPU (cheap and OK, plus leaves you an upgrade path to a 7600K or 7600K down the road), or on the high end - a 5820K or Ryzen 7 CPU, but these will require some expertise in tuning and overclocking. If your GPU is similarly obsolete (below a Radeon HD 7700 or a NVIDIA GTX 480) it's time to upgrade that as well. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 11:05
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Paul MaudDib posted:The long and short of it is that your CPU is pretty hopelessly out of date. That was not even a high end CPU... in 2012. You're welcome to give it a shot but you probably aren't going to have much luck. I think you've quoted the wrong person
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Apr 9, 2017 11:21
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HalloKitty posted:I think you've quoted the wrong person Fixed, meant to quote lemma...
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Apr 9, 2017 11:46
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So I'm completely new to all this but recently swapped out my case for one with a fan controller with a female Molex head. I don't have any Molex cables/ports for/on my PSU (Antec BP550 Plus), so I grabbed a PCI-Molex adapter. When it's plugged into one of the PCI ports on the PSU, nothing will power on--I get a flash from the motherboard lights and then nothing. What's happening here? What do I need to get it working?
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Apr 9, 2017 18:30
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:So I'm completely new to all this but recently swapped out my case for one with a fan controller with a female Molex head. I don't have any Molex cables/ports for/on my PSU (Antec BP550 Plus), so I grabbed a PCI-Molex adapter. When it's plugged into one of the PCI ports on the PSU, nothing will power on--I get a flash from the motherboard lights and then nothing. What's happening here? What do I need to get it working?
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Apr 9, 2017 18:50
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Alereon posted:Whoa whoa whoa, this doesn't make any sense and it sounds like you might be trying to plug the fan controller in backwards (output connected to a PSU output). You will never, ever convert between Molex and PEG, if you find yourself doing that something terrible is happening. I can't look at it right now because I'm out of the house but looking at the manual it's telling me to plug that Molex up to a PSU output ? I figured one of the PCI outs would work, but if not what should I be doing instead? SEX HAVER 40000 fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 19:10
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So apologies if this is an issue posted earlier, I gave the thread a scan and can't see a similar topic. I got my hands on a couple of Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB 1600 Mhz DDR3 ram modules, with the intention of running them in dual channel mode, just like the two Kingston Hyper X Fury 4GB sticks I currently have in my machine. However, on switching out the sticks, I can't get the computer to POST. It starts up, fans turn on, GPU lights up etc, and then a few seconds later shuts off only to repeat the process after a short delay, assuming I leave the power on. No motherboard (MSI Z97 Gaming 3) tone alerts or anything to suggest that the RAM is bad. The two sticks currently in my machine run at 1.65 V, whereas the Crucial sticks run at 1.5 V . Both run at the same frequency. To account for the difference in voltage (which I noted before I tried installing them), I hopped into the BIOS to disable XMP on the off-chance that it had any effect, but I haven't had any luck so far with any configuration. Am I being extremely dense with something here or is there likely an issue with the RAM? Edit: Should also note that the RAM is listed as compatible with my motherboard by Crucial and both modules are seated in the same bays as the original sticks were, although thanks to my oversize CPU cooler I use the 2nd and 4th slots, rather than 1st and 3rd. The new RAM is low profile (the Kingston stuff is not), so I could instead potentially mount them in bays 1 and 3. Second Edit: Nevermind, returned them and had them tested, both were dead as doorknobs. Got replacements and things are running smoothly. Gavrilo Princip fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 23:03
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