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Raised by Hamsters posted:So, getting 15" of standpipe under the counter/sink and above the trap weir seems difficult. The only way I could see that fitting, would be to connect another horizontal pipe to the vertical drain/vent line for the kitchen sink, and then have a p-trap with standpipe dedicated to the dishwasher. I could just maybe fit this into the cabinet box with the p-trap almost scraping the bottom of the cabinet, or just drill a hole straight through the cabinet and floor, run the standpipe straight down, and have the dishwasher P-trap in the basement directly under the kitchen. Just understand that if that kitchen line backs up it's going to flood your cabinets out rather than back up into the sink. Why is she so averse to having a proper air gap? To me that's such a strange complaint. Squashy Nipples posted:It's got one of those auto dampers, so I have to plug it in. Anyone install any of these yet? How new is it? I haven't seen one on a residential heater but commercial water heaters having been using them for quite awhile. Assuming (and this may not be the case) they more or less copied the commercial design they're fairly reliable now. When they first came out they were a nightmare. And not to be a dick but you're positive it's a automatic flu damper not a power vent unit, right?
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Mar 22, 2017 06:12
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Jadunk posted:Just understand that if that kitchen line backs up it's going to flood your cabinets out rather than back up into the sink. Why is she so averse to having a proper air gap? To me that's such a strange complaint. I'm not super concerned about the possibility of a sink backup (because I've never personally witnessed one!), but now that I think about it more this would probably put a ton of humidity into a small closed wooden box... Anyway she didn't want it because it's just an extra thing cluttering up the area.
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Mar 22, 2017 12:31
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I'm still trying to confirm that I probably shouldn't spend the money on a high efficiency water heater for my house. Please help. We're a house of four people, two young kids that I expect to start using lots more hot water in a few years. We might put in a larger whirlpool style tub at some point. Aside from that no unusual water usage. I've got quotes here (near Toronto, Ontario, Canada) around 3300 CAD plus tax, for an "80% efficient condensing" 50 gallon tank from John Woods. I'm not sure which model is meant by this as I can't find a model matching this efficiency on their site. If I were able to get the price down a bit more I'd be sorely tempted. My hazy goal is to have something that would last a minimum of ten years, require little maintenance, and operate very efficiently. I like the idea people mention of some of the high efficiency (e.g.: 96%) tanks being able to effectively supply infinite hot water while running efficiently. Should I just give up on finding anything at a lower cost? If I were willing to spend more would I be able to find a better value, like spend an extra 500 $ and get a stainless tank that'd extend the lifespan 50%? Sorry for the incredibly vague questions, I imagine the answer's really going to end up being it's just not worth it right now given the prices of these units.
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Mar 23, 2017 06:15
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Melraidin posted:Sorry for the incredibly vague questions, I imagine the answer's really going to end up being it's just not worth it right now given the prices of these units. High efficiency stuff in plumbing WILL NOT get you a full (or even close to it) RoI where I live, at least. If there's local rebates that can make the cost comparable it's a no-brainer but for the most part you spend the extra money because you want the extra features. If you're concerned about RoI (At least where I plumb) you go cheap on plumbing and have some PV panels thrown on your roof. (here natural gas is cheap, electricity is expensive)
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Mar 23, 2017 07:34
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Question about toilet siphon  Recently, this has started leaking: enough water seems to be passing through the siphon that it does a top up fill every 15mins. It there anything that can be tweaked/adjusted to stop this? There's a yellow sliding flap on the side and a small yellow screw/bolt type thing on the top that can be twisted a little i am hoping to avoid having to replace it, since it's a hassle to remove the cistern. (It seemed to start after I used a cheapo blue toilet 'dissolving' block in there - which didn't)
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Mar 25, 2017 17:59
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spog posted:Question about toilet siphon Interesting. Is that a dual flush European toilet? In North America, the tank mounts to the bowl. Only the old Victorian pull chain toilets with their high tanks mount to the wall here. Still, a toilet that refills every few minutes means that it's leaking, either into the bowl on onto the floor. You would have to take that flush valve apart and check its seals. They might just need to be cleaned. The manufacturer might provide parts, they might not. You may have to buy a whole new flush valve. Leaks onto the floor means that the tank is leaking from somewhere, either a seal is failing or the tank itself has a crack. If you used one of those blue cleanser tablets, a tank leak should be easy to spot under the tank.
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Mar 25, 2017 19:13
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So, we just bought a new house snd it is pre-plumbed for a water softener. We've purchased a Whirlpool WHES33 for the house and it seems like it's made for an easy home installation. I'm unsure of what the various piping setup in the garage means, though, as I expected to see an actual drain in the garage. Would anyone be able to indicate here what the various piping means? My first guess is that the large pipe below the loop is for drainage but that's just a guess. I'd love to try my hand at installing this myself as I'm not TOTALLY inept at installing things in my home, but a water softener is new territory. 
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Mar 26, 2017 15:41
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kid sinister posted:Interesting. Is that a dual flush European toilet? In North America, the tank mounts to the bowl. Only the old Victorian pull chain toilets with their high tanks mount to the wall here. Yeah, push button dual flush. You have a light flush that makes a short burst of sound and adds a little water to the bowl, diluting what's in there, but not doing anything useful. You have a full flush that actually does something useful, though thanks to our water conservation rules, it can't cope with the after effects of a night full of bar food. It actually mounts to the pan with two bolts, but it also screws into the wall. the hassle for me is that getting to the base of the pan is a tight fit due to the wall on one side and a sink on the other. It's definitely going through the valve - I was just hoping someone might say 'oh, I know that model, if you twist that bit, it will seal better' and save me a load of work. I've also learnt that I have a mild phobia about toilet plumbing: sticking ym hand in the clean water feels nasty to me - yet I am quite happy working on the waste pipes of my kitchen and bath.
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Mar 26, 2017 16:16
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Phenix Rising posted:So, we just bought a new house snd it is pre-plumbed for a water softener. We've purchased a Whirlpool WHES33 for the house and it seems like it's made for an easy home installation. I'm unsure of what the various piping setup in the garage means, though, as I expected to see an actual drain in the garage. Top is the water lines, bottom if the drain that you will have to add a ptrap and standpipe too.
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Mar 26, 2017 17:57
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Turd Herder posted:Top is the water lines, bottom if the drain that you will have to add a ptrap and standpipe too. Gotcha, that confirms my thought. Looking into it more I think we're going to go with an installer to do this for us. It'll be a couple hundred bucks but it'll be done right rather than us paying less for materials but getting increasingly frustrated as the process goes on. Thanks!
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Mar 26, 2017 20:43
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spog posted:You have a full flush that actually does something useful, though thanks to our water conservation rules, it can't cope with the after effects of a night full of bar food. That's less an issue with water conservation rules than it is an issue with a poorly designed toilet. A good 1.6/0.9 or 1.28/0.9 dual flush can handle a large poo poo without clogging.
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Mar 27, 2017 04:09
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Jadunk posted:That's less an issue with water conservation rules than it is an issue with a poorly designed toilet. A good 1.6/0.9 or 1.28/0.9 dual flush can handle a large poo poo without clogging. just took a dump in a 1.6gal Kohler with no problems, can confirm.
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Mar 27, 2017 13:50
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Quick question, gonna solder some copper pipe (60/40 solder and flux) and attach two adapters on each end of the pipe, it's just 2 inches long so I am wondering if it's best to solder both ends at once since they are so close. Actually answer here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_flPle6ttMc&t=800s His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 16:34
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Man that went to poo poo, even though I thought I did everything right, solder didn't flow into the joint, the flux turned crusty quickly, one big failure. I used Handy Flux by Lucas-Milhaupt, I bought the jar 10 years ago for a project I never actually started, low temperature brazing, useful range 320°C - 600°C (600°F - 1100°F). I dunno did I manage to overheat it with the simple butane torch I was using? Or was that I used electronics solder with flux in it, I was told it was OK at the store I got the fittings, as long as it was thick enough, the flux in the solder would only help.
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Mar 27, 2017 17:38
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Jadunk posted:That's less an issue with water conservation rules than it is an issue with a poorly designed toilet. A good 1.6/0.9 or 1.28/0.9 dual flush can handle a large poo poo without clogging. minivanmegafun posted:just took a dump in a 1.6gal Kohler with no problems, can confirm. While I must agree with you, having grown up with the type of toilet flush that could close the bathroom door due to the drop in air pressure, I can't shake the feeling that a 1.6gal flush only has enough power to push the deposit just around the ubend and that it will be lurking there, like Jaws.  EDIT: turns out that 'dissolving' blue toilet cakes leave behind a small piece of plastic that will wrap itself around a valve and prevent it from making a good seal. A nice, easy win spog fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 17:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:Man that went to poo poo, even though I thought I did everything right, solder didn't flow into the joint, the flux turned crusty quickly, one big failure. Flux does go bad. At least the stuff I use does. I throw it out and get more once it turns a really green color. You should have bought new flux.
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Mar 28, 2017 04:18
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spog posted:While I must agree with you, having grown up with the type of toilet flush that could close the bathroom door due to the drop in air pressure, I can't shake the feeling that a 1.6gal flush only has enough power to push the deposit just around the ubend and that it will be lurking there, like Jaws. I mean yeah, that's the real problem with low flow toilets being installed in old plumbing systems. Not enough carry distance to actually push the turds out to the street. "Congestion" or "Sludge" stoppages are WAY more common now than they were 10 years ago. (seriously I think my first 3 years in the trade I only ran across 2 or 3, I probably see more than that every month now despite only doing like 5% the number of drain calls) A good 1.28 (I prefer the Toto Drake 1 or Ultramax) will not have issues with clogging. Re: flux/solder talk I've never flux sit around long enough to go bad, and I've never tried to use electronic solder on water pipe. I will say the technique displayed in that video is pretty terrible compared to the technically correct way to do things. It does generally work and was how I was taught, it's just not right.
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Mar 28, 2017 04:35
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Turd Herder posted:Flux does go bad. At least the stuff I use does. I throw it out and get more once it turns a really green color. You should have bought new flux. Looked fine though, perfectly white type of paste, and applied just normally. I am wondering if I did go and overheat it. Jadunk posted:Re: flux/solder talk I've never flux sit around long enough to go bad, and I've never tried to use electronic solder on water pipe. I will say the technique displayed in that video is pretty terrible compared to the technically correct way to do things. It does generally work and was how I was taught, it's just not right. Do you have a link to a youtube or something where I can see the right way? His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 05:24
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Jadunk posted:I mean yeah, that's the real problem with low flow toilets being installed in old plumbing systems. Not enough carry distance to actually push the turds out to the street. "Congestion" or "Sludge" stoppages are WAY more common now than they were 10 years ago. (seriously I think my first 3 years in the trade I only ran across 2 or 3, I probably see more than that every month now despite only doing like 5% the number of drain calls) A good 1.28 (I prefer the Toto Drake 1 or Ultramax) will not have issues with clogging. Re: toilets - what is it about the two crappers you mentioned that you think make them not have issues with clogging compared to others? Might be shopping soon but may not have the option of the ones you've mentioned. Re: soldering - what wasn't good about his technique? It looked fairly reasonable to me as a person who's barely done any of this ever.
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Mar 28, 2017 05:36
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Jadunk posted:
The fact that he tells you that you will never have to run your solder along the entire fitting is enough for me to bang my head against a wall. Unless he just meant on half inch pipe then I can see it. It's pretty hard to gently caress up half inch solder joints. Re: The fact that it's electronics flux could have been your problem. It's most likely meant to work with solder that is a different composite.
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Mar 28, 2017 12:51
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His Divine Shadow posted:Do you have a link to a youtube or something where I can see the right way? I do not. I might be able to dig up and take pictures of the CDA guideline later tonight depending on if the sick kid is willing to sleep. Basically the problem is that you should be heating the pipe, then the fitting, and for horizontal fittings you always start your solder at the bottom and work your way up. Whenever you take the solder off the pipe and place it back on you have to do an overlap (so you re-flow solder through the area already done before moving on to the pipe that hasn't yet been soldered) His technique is fine for 1/2 inch, and honestly depending on access is the way that I still have to do it sometimes. But you try to pull that poo poo on some 3" and you're gonna have a bad time. Toto toilets generally don't have manufacturing defects and those toilets (at least the ones I buy) have a glazed trapway and larger flush valve size. So the trapway (where the poo goes after it leaves sight before it enters the drain line) is smooth instead of rough and the larger flush valve means that more water hits at once, resulting in a more powerful flush. Also an important note is that both of those models use flappers still rather than canister flush systems, my experience has been that canister flush systems require a lot more maintenance. (at least in my area due to the hard water) and also are more likely to malfunction and not flush cycle quite properly.
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Mar 29, 2017 02:52
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Jadunk posted:I do not. I might be able to dig up and take pictures of the CDA guideline later tonight depending on if the sick kid is willing to sleep. Basically the problem is that you should be heating the pipe, then the fitting, and for horizontal fittings you always start your solder at the bottom and work your way up. Whenever you take the solder off the pipe and place it back on you have to do an overlap (so you re-flow solder through the area already done before moving on to the pipe that hasn't yet been soldered) His technique is fine for 1/2 inch, and honestly depending on access is the way that I still have to do it sometimes. But you try to pull that poo poo on some 3" and you're gonna have a bad time. Nice, thanks. The toilet design definitely makes sense. For the soldering, on a horizontal joint is the reason to start at the bottom that if you start at the top then keep the heat on the joint that the solder at the top may flow leaving a void near the top? Or what's the reasoning behind this? I'm not likely to be doing any 3" pipe anytime soon (or ever) but might as well know.
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Mar 29, 2017 05:56
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Well I got new flux and it worked. Thought I got new plumbing solder too but on closer inspection it was rosin core, I think it worked but it looks alot dirtier because of it.
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Mar 29, 2017 15:07
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Whenever I have a solder joint fail to take in solder, it's usually because I forgot to brush out the female fitting.
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Mar 29, 2017 18:46
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kid sinister posted:Whenever I have a solder joint fail to take in solder, it's usually because I forgot to brush out the female fitting. This is called foreplay and it's very important when laying pipe.
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Mar 29, 2017 19:39
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Building a new hole for my fridge to live in and I'm not sure about the best place to feed the water from for the ice maker. Behold top-down view with MS paint grade planning tools: Here, the orange walls are exterior (well, against the garage anyway). The green wall doesn't exist yet - The farther I move it from the fridge, the smaller my pantry gets. If I put one of these water outlet boxes https://www.amazon.com/Water-Tite-8...aker+outlet+box or similar where I drew the black rectangle, how much space am I going to need to route the supply line around in? Can I get away with 3/4"? Is there some totally different plan I should be considering?
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Mar 30, 2017 00:44
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Building a new hole for my fridge to live in and I'm not sure about the best place to feed the water from for the ice maker. Behold top-down view with MS paint grade planning tools: Putting that a lot lower would make more sense. I think most ice maker supplies are located on lower back of the fridge. Is your fridge flat on the back?
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Mar 30, 2017 01:47
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Well, that's a top down view, so here I'm proposing it would be on the right hand side of the fridge. I was mounting it mid way up so that there is room for the line to extend as you pull the fridge out or push it in. Forgot to mention I can't really get it into the back wall, plus (very minor) concerns about line freezing if it were in the garage-facing walls. I wouldn't mind just shooting it through the floor if that's still allowable? The only thing I am really familiar with on this are those old saddle valve hookups that stab through the pipe. This fridge is recommending a 1/2" supply to 1/4" flexible line to the fridge. I don't have it yet, not totally sure how flat the back of it is.
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Mar 30, 2017 02:30
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So I want to run a line from my RO system under my sink to my fridge. Will the RO provide enough water pressure for this to work properly?
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Mar 30, 2017 03:07
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Kjermzs posted:So I want to run a line from my RO system under my sink to my fridge. Will the RO provide enough water pressure for this to work properly? If your RO has a water of air tank it will. If its a water over water tank (kinetico brand has some like this ) then it wont. It also depends on distance to the fridge. Try it with out and if you get partial ice cubes you can get a 1 liter air tank to mount close to the fridge for it to work.
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Mar 30, 2017 05:03
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Melraidin posted:For the soldering, on a horizontal joint is the reason to start at the bottom that if you start at the top then keep the heat on the joint that the solder at the top may flow leaving a void near the top? Or what's the reasoning behind this? I'm not likely to be doing any 3" pipe anytime soon (or ever) but might as well know. Honestly, I'm not sure exactly where the void would be (top, sides, bottom) but yeah properly and completely filling the cup is why you're supposed to start at the bottom.
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Mar 30, 2017 07:31
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Hi guys, complete novice here. Just moved into a new apartment and the setup under the kitchen sink looks like this:  Why is there an open pipe with a cup covering it? Is it something I can put my washing machine drain hose into or is it some kind of overflow protection or some poo poo?
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Mar 30, 2017 09:42
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What's under the cup? I don't know much, but that whole setup looks strange to me. What country are you in? I am picturing a clog that causes water to overflow through the cup vent and then tripping the breaker to those outlets along the cabinet floor.
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Mar 30, 2017 11:35
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Flea Bargain posted:Hi guys, complete novice here. Isn't that grey hose going to your washing machine drain pipe?
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Mar 30, 2017 13:31
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I'm the outlet mixed in with the sketchy looking plumbing.
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Mar 30, 2017 13:57
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Who the gently caress knows what's going on. I'm in Australia for what it's worth. The dishwasher is plumbed in, the clothes washer is not. There's just an open pipe as far as I can tell under the cup, but it should drain just like the sink right? I can just stick my hose in there?
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Mar 30, 2017 15:30
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I have a threaded L joint that has a leak. It's not a huge leak but it is under pressure so was spraying out. Is there any way I can patch the joint with a compound without having to unthread the joint?
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Mar 30, 2017 16:13
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Flea Bargain posted:Who the gently caress knows what's going on. I'm in Australia for what it's worth. The dishwasher is plumbed in, the clothes washer is not. There's just an open pipe as far as I can tell under the cup, but it should drain just like the sink right? I can just stick my hose in there? Yeah, that's where you stick the drain pipe for the clothes washer. It will probably have a hook shaped rubber pipe that hooks straight into the open end and hangs there. I can't really tell what's going on, but it will probably work fine.
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Mar 30, 2017 16:18
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Wow, what a convoluted mess.
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Mar 30, 2017 19:40
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JEEVES420 posted:I have a threaded L joint that has a leak. It's not a huge leak but it is under pressure so was spraying out. Is there any way I can patch the joint with a compound without having to unthread the joint? Not really. You could try an expoy but it won't last for ever if you can get it to hold.
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Mar 31, 2017 01:33
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