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Lord of Plagues incoming:   Been eyeing this dude up for a while, and it only being 9 quid helped.. Came together surprisingly quickly for me, didn't quite get the effect I was going for on the base but ah well
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Mar 29, 2017 17:04
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Owns. I love the bright colors and that's probably exactly what i'm doing with my Renegade Ogryn. Love that yellow pus action, though it could've veered closer to orange to differentiate it from the yellow horns.
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Mar 29, 2017 17:06
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glitchkrieg posted:I know the 40K Imperial Assassin had a painted version in one of the official 2E books - but I don't have them easily available. If anybody has a photo/scan could they post it please? Google Images is only returning the recent repaint and I need the original for next month's oath challenge! 
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Mar 29, 2017 17:51
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Think that's the one, thanks a lot!
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Mar 29, 2017 17:59
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Some more Heavy Gear pictures, this time of my Southern force: These guys, I painted with a desert/savanna-type camo - a sandy yellow, with some leathery brown stripes in a pseudo-tiger pattern, followed by a brown wash and a bone drybrush. Simple and effective, although the pattern isn't quite as visible on minis of this scale as I would've hoped.  Southern Jägers, their basic trooper Gear - literally a shamelessly stolen copy of the Northern Hunter, with the exception of rounded composite shells instead of the heavier Northern angled plates. Theoretically, these rounded shapes give the unit superior protection at equivalent weight, in practice the two designs are effectively identical. Two stock Jäger (one command model) and two 'Flamm Jägers' - equipped with flamethrowers and incendiary anti-missile warheads for their rocket pods.  Southern Black Mambas, their advanced trooper Gears. Compared to the Panther, their Northern counterpart, the Black Mamba is slightly slower and less agile, but more durable and heavily armored, relying less on evasion and more on its durability to survive. Two 'Blazing Mambas' are armed with an advanced rotary laser for heavy assault, while two 'Long Fangs' carry heavier dual rocket pods for long-range support - I intend to split these guys to escort and assist the heavier models in my force, instead of using them as a single unit in and of themselves.  Southern 'Iguana' scout gears - a bazooka-armed 'Striking Iguana' and a 'Chatterbox' EWF carrier model. Compared to the super-specialized, fragile and obscenely fast Cheetah, the Iguana is, again, slightly slower, more durable, and carries heavier weapons - while the Cheetah is specialized towards a pure scouting role, the Iguana is designed to double in a light trooper/harasser role when called upon.  Spitting Cobras, the premiere Southern fire support Gear. The Junglemower Cobra, on the right, comes armed with a heavy rotary cannon, a flexible weapon system that can mow down a multitude of smaller targets or shatter heavier opponents under a sustained barrage of fire. The Junglemower Support Cobra, on the left, replaces the stock Junglemower Cobra's back-mounted artillery rocket pod with a light field gun - it's essentially a Basilisk on legs. I intend to pair these guys with my Blazing Mambas, form a fire-point that basically advances and hoses everything up close with gatling fire in-between lobbing ordinance downrange.  The King Cobra, one of the biggest and heaviest fire support gears available to the Southern forces. Essentially a roided-up Spitting Cobra with extra armor 'skirts' to protect the leg assemblies. This is the 'Hooded Cobra' variant, its primary weapon a powerful long-range laser cannon - I'm pairing it with the Long Fang Mambas to make for a more long-range shooty unit. Originally I wasn't feeling that inspired about the southern designs or fluff, but these guys kind of grew on me while I was painting them. They're probably the best faction for beginners, too - their designs tend to be tough and flexible, with a marked preference for medium-range high-volume fire like rotary lasers and gatling cannons, supported by artillery.
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Mar 30, 2017 10:21
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I painted a disgusting skin cape and thought I would share:
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Mar 30, 2017 14:55
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That skin is pretty disgusting, and the cape looks gross too, nice job.
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Mar 30, 2017 14:59
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The cape's outshined by the incredible blending you did on the hand. The red looks almost organic.
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Mar 30, 2017 19:07
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Has anyone tried the new Army Painter Warpaints expanded lineup? That mega set is mighty tempting.
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Mar 31, 2017 07:29
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As someone who has bought multiple big sets of paints in his life: do not buy big sets of paint. Buy the colors you like/need and the colors you hear are good. You'll spend less money and be happier in the long run because you don't end up wasting a bunch of money on paints that sit unused in your storage for years.
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Mar 31, 2017 07:52
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stabbington posted:As someone who has bought multiple big sets of paints in his life: do not buy big sets of paint. Buy the colors you like/need and the colors you hear are good. You'll spend less money and be happier in the long run because you don't end up wasting a bunch of money on paints that sit unused in your storage for years. True words. Received the Citadel Ultimate paint set a few years ago as a gift, even with lots of experimentation, it still isn't worth it. No matter how much of a completionist you are.
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Mar 31, 2017 08:09
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stabbington posted:Buy the colors you like/need and the colors you hear are good. That (plus a general goal of moving away from Citadel since they don't even have the paints I'm used to anymore) is pretty much exactly why I made my recommended paints list: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381
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Mar 31, 2017 08:43
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Avenging Dentist posted:That (plus a general goal of moving away from Citadel since they don't even have the paints I'm used to anymore) is pretty much exactly why I made my recommended paints list: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 I've used that list before, some solid recommendations. Citadel is now less than 20% of the colours I use day to day. P3, Vallejo, Scale and Reaper are great.
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Mar 31, 2017 09:20
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Cross post from the oath thread. I'm getting happy with my yellow, but I still hate painting the tartan. The token doesn't look too out of place compared to the other Blood Rage tokens, but I might end up painting them completely green with a wash and a highlight. Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Mar 31, 2017 12:03
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Avenging Dentist posted:Below is a list of the best-loved paints from any range. This list is compiled from posts both here and on other forums (mainly CMON), plus a few recommendations from various painting videos. I broke it up by fairly-arbitrarily putting each one into a basic color, and within each color, they're sorted roughly from light to dark. A Thanks for this post. Does anyone have some favorite greens? ... I might have ordered a Age of Sigmar Sylvaneth army (Treemen!  )
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Mar 31, 2017 13:35
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indicates paints that lots of people love. If there are paints people think I missed, let me know (in the thread or via PM) and I'll add them.
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Any reason nuln oil isn't on that list of paints. Real good black wash
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Mar 31, 2017 13:48
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So is Vallejo Game Color not really recommended compared to Model Color? Only saw it once or twice on that list. I have a few bottles but I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the two types. Also I'm not sure if it's all stores, but the Hobby Lobby near me has VMC for $2.99 a bottle, and they tend to have sales here and there. Might be worth checking one if you have a store in your area.
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Mar 31, 2017 15:10
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Game color owns for the brighter colors. I personally extensively use the blue-greens and purples from them. There's a specific purple that I use on all my ships that's from VGC that is really good and is an easy mix for stuff but idk what its name is since the name got rubbed off a long time ago and I dread having to buy a new bottle of it.
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Mar 31, 2017 15:13
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Geoff Zahn posted:So is Vallejo Game Color not really recommended compared to Model Color? Only saw it once or twice on that list. I have a few bottles but I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the two types. Game Color is (was) the equivalent of the previous batch of GW colors ("Moon Yellow" and "Leather Brown.") Model Color is geared toward military modeling, and has colors like "German Camo Grey" and "US OD Khaki." Both are fine, and your choice will likely depend on what you're painting.
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Mar 31, 2017 15:23
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Model Color also is the opposite of durable, depending on which color you get. I get the impression that they seriously are for modellers who have a tank on a stand that will be airbrushed and varnished before being touched.
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Mar 31, 2017 15:49
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berzerkmonkey posted:Game Color is (was) the equivalent of the previous batch of GW colors ("Moon Yellow" and "Leather Brown.") Model Color is geared toward military modeling, and has colors like "German Camo Grey" and "US OD Khaki." Cool, thanks. I'm painting WH40k stuff mostly, so I'll probably lean towards game color more. Which one has the superior metallics? Or does GW still win in that category?
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Mar 31, 2017 15:52
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Geoff Zahn posted:Cool, thanks. I'm painting WH40k stuff mostly, so I'll probably lean towards game color more. Which one has the superior metallics? Or does GW still win in that category? There's a more expensive line of metallics called, shockingly, Vallejo Metal Color, which has its own varnish. It's great.
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Mar 31, 2017 15:54
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signalnoise posted:Model Color also is the opposite of durable, depending on which color you get. I get the impression that they seriously are for modellers who have a tank on a stand that will be airbrushed and varnished before being touched. I don't know why you wouldn't want to varnish your models first if they're meant for game use.
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Mar 31, 2017 16:20
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I bought a VMC Ivory and I find it impossible to use. Maybe I need to shake the poo poo out of it? It's so thin and useless.
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Mar 31, 2017 16:28
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Chill la Chill posted:I don't know why you wouldn't want to varnish your models first if they're meant for game use. I don't mean before game use, I mean with most paints I can put down a base coat, pick the thing up and do brush painting, and the paint doesn't just rub off if I haven't varnished it right after the base coat. With Model Color, in my experience, that poo poo just rubs right off if you touch it without it being varnished.
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Mar 31, 2017 16:42
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I bought a VMC Ivory and I find it impossible to use. Maybe I need to shake the poo poo out of it? It's so thin and useless. It could be old as poo poo/frozen/ruined. Try to get a replacement?
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Mar 31, 2017 17:57
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stabbington posted:As someone who has bought multiple big sets of paints in his life: do not buy big sets of paint. Buy the colors you like/need and the colors you hear are good. You'll spend less money and be happier in the long run because you don't end up wasting a bunch of money on paints that sit unused in your storage for years. As someone who has that entire boxed set of Vallejo paints and only uses about 3 colors out of it, I concur.
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Mar 31, 2017 19:29
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I got stuff!   Really excited to give the new brush a shot. This is by far the best liquid chrome I've seen to date. It's really hard to take a picture to convey how reflective it really is.  Molotow Liquid Chrome pen comes in 1mm, 2mm, and 4mm sizes. All the graffiti sites I went to were out of stock, and on a whim I went to Nankin Hobby (Michigoons, downtown Farmington Hills) and they had them for $11 a piece. The flatter the surface, the better the results. You can actually see yourself in the reflection. It's nothing like c-1 metallizer, but it's vastly better for small details like armor trim and such. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 19:47
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Geoff Zahn posted:So is Vallejo Game Color not really recommended compared to Model Color? Only saw it once or twice on that list. I have a few bottles but I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the two types. In general, when I trawled the internet for recommendations, I saw a lot more people posting about how they loved VMC paints and not so much about VGC. MasterSlowPoke posted:I bought a VMC Ivory and I find it impossible to use. Maybe I need to shake the poo poo out of it? It's so thin and useless. I highly recommend putting an agitator in your paint bottles. I use hematite beads, since they're both 1) dense and 2) pretty inert. These are like the perfect size to fit in your dropper bottles.
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Mar 31, 2017 19:47
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Molotow Liquid Chrome pen comes in 1mm, 2mm, and 4mm sizes. Is it alcohol based or what edit: Looked it up, yep it's alcohol based. Have you compared it to Montana Black silver ink?
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Mar 31, 2017 20:09
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Avenging Dentist posted:Below is a list of the best-loved paints from any range. This list is compiled from posts both here and on other forums (mainly CMON), plus a few recommendations from various painting videos. I broke it up by fairly-arbitrarily putting each one into a basic color, and within each color, they're sorted roughly from light to dark. A I would add Vallejo Transparent Yellow (Citadel Casandora Yellow) as a wash. Those are really good for saturating and lightly shading yellows. dexefiend posted:Thanks for this post. Does anyone have some favorite greens? ... I might have ordered a Age of Sigmar Sylvaneth army (Treemen! I like to use P3 ordic olive and P3 cryx bane base for my greens. I highlight with a warm white color.
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Mar 31, 2017 20:35
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stabbington posted:As someone who has bought multiple big sets of paints in his life: do not buy big sets of paint. Buy the colors you like/need and the colors you hear are good. You'll spend less money and be happier in the long run because you don't end up wasting a bunch of money on paints that sit unused in your storage for years. Yeah that's been my approach so far. Was just enticed by the pretty amazing price I can get it for. Big boxes of paint aside, though, how are the Army Painter paints in general? I don't hear much about them but now that they added like 60 colors their range is looking pretty complete.
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Mar 31, 2017 20:35
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:All the graffiti sites I went to were out of stock, and on a whim I went to Nankin Hobby (Michigoons, downtown Farmington Hills) and they had them for $11 a piece.. um i believe you'll find that it is in farmington proper and right down the street from ICP headquarters as well!
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Mar 31, 2017 21:29
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I had no idea I shared such alarming proximity to the ICP headquarters. Thankfully I frequent Michigan Toy Soldier more often anyways, to get my Scale 75 fix.
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Mar 31, 2017 21:42
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Deino posted:I had no idea I shared such alarming proximity to the ICP headquarters. Thankfully I frequent Michigan Toy Soldier more often anyways, to get my Scale 75 fix. Thank you very much for this information.
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Mar 31, 2017 22:03
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signalnoise posted:Is it alcohol based or what Not the black, but the hardcore silver yes. This stuff isn't even silver, it's like painting with mercury.   Cat Face Joe posted:um i believe you'll find that it is in farmington proper and right down the street from ICP headquarters as well! I always get them confused. Garbage Clownman #2 shows up to that Starbucks down there every so often and I think it's hilarious every single time. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 22:14
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Edit: phoneposting.
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Mar 31, 2017 22:18
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Mar 31, 2017 22:20
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Crossposting some Gloomhaven starting characters. Painting them was a mixed bag, couple of them were really fun to paint, but couple of them had some fiddly details that were really hard to make out. I also need to learn to pace myself with character models, I really started to run out of steam with the last few adventurers. Painting unique and heroic models is fun, but when I paint several in a short span I start running out of focus and just long for less detailed rank-and-file mooks.Lord Hypnostache posted:Oath complete!
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Mar 31, 2017 22:21
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That Chrome pen stuff looks good, I may have to track some down and use it for my Deathwatch or something.
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Mar 31, 2017 22:23
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