|
I have a HF engine hoist and scissor type trans jack. I like them both. No there's no angling a transmission jack afaik aisde from tilting it up on its back or front wheels. Its really helpful to get you 10% of the way with no bench pressing though and often you can tilt your engine down if its on a cherry picker so the angle of your dangle slips in easier.
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2017 19:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 02:13 |
|
|
The last one I rented didn't tilt - but it did have extensions on the very loosely mounted platform. That made it sort of self-angling? Here's a pic: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2017 21:39
|
|
|
The trans jack I got from harbor freight does lean front to back and left to right, and was more than adequate for pulling and replacing the trans in my old e34. There's little ears on the corners that couldn't be moved far enough apart to keep them on while pulling it, and even at its lowest position it's too tall to actually pull the trans out out from under the car on the jack with my stands extended as far as they can safely go. I managed to pull and replace it all by myself though, so it overall exceeded expectations. Too bad the car got rear ended sitting in stopped traffic and totaled 500 miles later. I swear it was like half this price back when I bought it though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2017 07:39
|
|
|
One of my friends brought a Lista Vidmar cabinet down to the shop, and I guess its the greatest cabinet on earth. I want to purchase a divider system for it, but they seem expensive, so I was thinking about maybe using plastic bins? The interior of the drawers measures 29 1/4" x28". E- Check this beauty out:  I am planning to use it to organize all our fasteners, saw this set of bins on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350757258366?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Dividers on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lista-Drawer-Dividers-4x28-1-Cabinet/dp/B01HIX2BKS/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KXAG1638GXRJVXKBS01W I was wondering if there was somewhere i could order them cheaper? Or if anyone had a better idea. I am also looking on amazon at these bolt sizing guides, anyone have these? Dont want to waste my time with a plastic one if they are junk. Plastic: https://www.amazon.com/Boltsize-It-BOLT-SIZE-IT-BLUE/dp/B001FZOCCG/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KXAG1638GXRJVXKBS01W Metal Male/female on cable: https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KXAG1638GXRJVXKBS01W
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2017 16:07
|
|
|
always be closing posted:One of my friends brought a Lista Vidmar cabinet down to the shop, and I guess its the greatest cabinet on earth. I want to purchase a divider system for it, but they seem expensive, so I was thinking about maybe using plastic bins? The interior of the drawers measures 29 1/4" x28". We have both, dividers and bins in the same drawer for our power equipment parts, but in all reality you only need bins unless you're storing a lot of stuff bigger than the bins. I think these are the ones we've ordered in the past: http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Schaller...O4AAOxy3zNSjlnd E: This is actually where we bought them from: http://www.schallercorporation.com/ Make sure to get the right height so you maximize your drawers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2017 16:15
|
|
|
Potentially stupid tool question - I need to take the subframe off of my '02 Focus (with factory original fasteners on a car that has lived 13 of its 15 years in the rust belt  ), I was able to drive 3 out of 4 bolts out with my Dewalt DCF899 but the last one is a stubborn bastard and didn't budge after a solid 10 minutes of hammering at the top setting.I'm using old (purchased in 2010) Harbor Freight deep wall impact sockets, and the 18mm I'm using on this bolt has seen a lot of use over the years. There's a bit of slack in the socket between putting it on the fastener and driving it, also the square socket on the other end is visibly worn. Is it possible a new socket might allow a bit more torque/hammer action to reach the bolt head? The socket was uncomfortably warm to the touch by the time it became obvious nothing was going to happen. I'm leaving it soaking in PB Blaster overnight - I can see (but cannot easily access) the top of the bolt after it threads into the frame through an alignment hole in the chassis so I gave it a good soaking from above, also ran my torch on it for about 10 minutes and hit it both on the head and soaked the area between the chassis and the subframe itself hoping it will wick its way up the threads before trying again tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 03:43
|
|
|
New sockets probably won't help, but the soaking will.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 03:51
|
|
|
What you need is fire. Definitely more fire.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 04:11
|
|
|
Yeah heat is your friend. Don't torch your car tho
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 05:23
|
|
|
slidebite posted:
Geoj posted:'02 Focus eeeeeeh. your call, really.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 05:30
|
|
|
I stopped using heat, for ~$7 freeze spray with oil works great. Don't half rear end it though. Spray like you want to use up the whole can (it will drip a lot of oil out). The can also says to wait 30 seconds to a minute after your done spraying for the chill/oil to do its thing. http://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/crc-freeze-off-super-penetrant/898352_0_0
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 05:35
|
|
|
I say blow torch over freeze off. Tighten before you loosen. If you do use freeze off, use a breaker bar.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 06:49
|
|
|
I have a pretty much endless supply of freeze spray if I want it so I'm pretty unbiased, but heat works way better in my experience. Freeze spray certainly has its uses though, especially if you're messing with things you shouldn't get hot like new parts or bearings. Go buy one of those induction heaters from earlier in the thread  https://youtu.be/YJElT9xK3bk
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 14:16
|
|
|
Buy a new shallow socket. Sometimes deep well loose a little torque vs a shallow socket. Also sea foam deep creep is your friend. It penetrates and stays around.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:The trans jack I got from harbor freight does lean front to back and left to right, and was more than adequate for pulling and replacing the trans in my old e34. There's little ears on the corners that couldn't be moved far enough apart to keep them on while pulling it, and even at its lowest position it's too tall to actually pull the trans out out from under the car on the jack with my stands extended as far as they can safely go. I managed to pull and replace it all by myself though, so it overall exceeded expectations. Too bad the car got rear ended sitting in stopped traffic and totaled 500 miles later. Sort of confused by your response...sounds like it didn't quite work for you but you were happy with it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 16:10
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
You could try an 11/16 socket, it may fit your 18mm bolt head. Bonus points if it's 6 point.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 16:19
|
|
|
Katosabi posted:We have both, dividers and bins in the same drawer for our power equipment parts, but in all reality you only need bins unless you're storing a lot of stuff bigger than the bins. I think these are the ones we've ordered in the past: http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Schaller...O4AAOxy3zNSjlnd They're good people, and a local (to me) company. I've got several drawers of their bins, and they've been great. Their new drawer-designer tool is pretty handy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 16:29
|
|
|
Thanks for the responses. I'm gonna try and pitch that set then. Our drawers are almost 5 inches deep, so I'm gonna see what they offer on the site. I think it's a better option than using harbor freight bins which waste 3/4 of an inch in front due to the sloped shape.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 16:41
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Potentially stupid tool question -
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Can you shift it with a big breaker bar? My concern with the breaker bar is shearing off the bolt head. If that happens there's not much I could do besides trying to drill out the fastener and retap for the next size bolt or helicoil.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 18:55
|
|
|
Geoj posted:My concern with the breaker bar is shearing off the bolt head. If that happens there's not much I could do besides trying to drill out the fastener and retap for the next size bolt or helicoil. Yeah, that's my concern snapping off those. In a lot of cases there really is no fix besides taking a hole saw and drilling a hole through a floor board to get to the captive nut.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 20:53
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Sort of confused by your response...sounds like it didn't quite work for you but you were happy with it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 22:16
|
|
|
Geoj posted:My concern with the breaker bar is shearing off the bolt head. If that happens there's not much I could do besides trying to drill out the fastener and retap for the next size bolt or helicoil. If heat and everything else doesn't get you anywhere and you need the subframe out, then just do what you have to.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 23:13
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:No? It worked well enough to finish the job, but it had some limitations that I pointed out. I had to ratchet strap the trans to the platform, and slide it on and off from the ground to fit out from under my car, but it lifted and aligned the trans so I could do it by myself so it was Good Enough. Ahhh...gotcha. That's sort of what I was thinking but wanted to make sure. Now need to work up some rough calcs to see if tranny jack + transmission height < frame rails on jack stands. God help me, might rebuild the drat thing if I can get it in the garage.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2017 23:46
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:On the other hand, it gets the subframe out, and gIves you more room to get at it for removal. I'm attacking it with frequent applications of heat and PB Blaster, also waiting on a set of low profile sockets to arrive from Amazon...going to see if it'll come out tomorrow afternoon/evening with my impact wrench. If not I'm off to the hardware store for a piece of black pipe to use as a cheater bar.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 00:08
|
|
|
This looks like another opportunity to recommend the god-like Kroil, by Kano. Best penetrating oil I have ever used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F09CEA?psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC You can actually buy it for a rediculously reduced price direct from Kano labs: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwiI3HBRDv0q_qhqXZ-N4BEiQAOTiCHiWq_mSMiFnABCvg9h16kOyQe7m0DBmR1j0LznbDQi0aAls-8P8HAQ
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 02:36
|
|
|
Just jammed a cotton ball soaked with acetone-ATF around the rusty bolt head, and held it in place with an old hard drive magnet. Hopefully it doesn't dissolve the boat around it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 02:44
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
always be closing posted:This looks like another opportunity to recommend the god-like Kroil, by Kano. Best penetrating oil I have ever used. Seconding. My dad hooked me up with some a while back and it is The poo poo. Smells up the whole fuckin garage but drat if it ain't worth it. He worked at a power plant and they'd buy that poo poo by the gallon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 03:15
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Seconding. My dad hooked me up with some a while back and it is The poo poo. Smells up the whole fuckin garage but drat if it ain't worth it. He worked at a power plant and they'd buy that poo poo by the gallon. Their engine cleaner is BOSS. Even more so in a recirculating parts cleaner, heated.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 03:47
|
|
|
Wasnt it figured out that Panther Piss is the god of rust breaker sprays?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 07:08
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Wasnt it figured out that Panther Piss is the god of rust breaker sprays? Sixty percent of the time, it works every time.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 07:55
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Wasnt it figured out that Panther Piss is the god of rust breaker sprays? Which is funny, because according to my dad, that's what everybody at the power plant called Kroil.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 16:53
|
|
|
always be closing posted:You can actually buy it for a rediculously reduced price direct from Kano labs: Beware, if you order from them even once they will send you pamphlets (that look like they're from the 60's) for the rest of your life. It's 
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
always be closing posted:You can actually buy it for a rediculously reduced price direct from Kano labs: drat that's a slammin deal. Ordered, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 17:35
|
|
|
always be closing posted:You can actually buy it for a rediculously reduced price direct from Kano labs: I look forward to 60's catalog mail spam
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
What kind of OBDI/OBDII scanner would you people recommend? I need to scan some hot codes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 18:25
|
|
|
razorscooter posted:What kind of OBDI/OBDII scanner would you people recommend? I need to scan some hot codes. A cheap android tablet, copy of Torque, and a Veepeak Bluetooth OBDII dongle from Amazon should suffice for 99% of cars out there. I can even get the P1XXX manufacturer specific codes from my Volvo with mine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 18:35
|
|
|
always be closing posted:This looks like another opportunity to recommend the god-like Kroil, by Kano. Best penetrating oil I have ever used. That website is adorable and/or 
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 18:36
|
|
|
I also ordered from that adorable website that looks like it's never heard of encrypting customer data, such as the credit card information I just entered. But that price was pretty good!
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 18:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 02:13 |
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:A cheap android tablet, copy of Torque, and a Veepeak Bluetooth OBDII dongle from Amazon should suffice for 99% of cars out there. I can even get the P1XXX manufacturer specific codes from my Volvo with mine. Can it do OBDI? I have to be able to read those too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2017 18:50
|
|