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A 50S RAYGUN posted:how likely is it that the body damage needs to be repaired before i can get a new windshield in? i'll edit in some more once i upload them. I've seen a similar situation where the owner just put a new 'screen in and about a week later went over a pothole and cracked it all the way down from where the dent is. Get the bodywork fixed.
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Apr 6, 2017 02:59
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STR and other Honda-knowing folks: My friend has a '87 Civic Si. About a year ago it blew the head gasket, and it's been sitting with the head off since. He wants it gone, and said I could have it if I fixed it. This is an attractive option to me, but I know approx. jack and poo poo about honda motors and stuff. The block has had the cylinders covered with plastic, so crap probably hasn't fallen in there, and I'm planning on checking it out with a breaker bar to make sure it hasn't seized the rings to the bores or anything. Barring a dealbreaker like that, what exactly am I looking at? I am expecting to get the head decked, get a head gasket kit, might as well do the timing belt, tensioner, water pump at the same time? I think he said it needed a cam (maybe it wiped a lobe) at the same time, is there anything complicated with that? Also, I think I read that the '87 is from right before honda legos were a thing, so are parts kinda hard to find? I'm hoping to get this all buttoned up in a week or two, if I'm going to do it at all, and I don't have a lot of money to put into it. Will this bite me? I'm willing to walk away from it (for now or indefinitely) if it will be more than a medium amount of hassle. I'm familiar with engine internals and such, I've just never worked on a honda before this one.
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Apr 6, 2017 03:19
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I just hit 142,000 on a 2003 acura rsx base 5spd. the serpentine belt squeaks when it's wet out. a coworker recommended that i order the serpentine belt, and new pulleys *especially the idle pulley* on rockauto and find a shop that will replace parts that they don't order with markup. Beyond that both headlight assemblies barely let any light through so I'm looking to replace them with new ones. I need to know about which pulleys I should order and if I should eat the $99 per "various manufacturer" assembly on rockauto or find cool ones somewhere else no clue. beyond that i've kept up with all preventative maintenance and it's been a good car for the 52,000 miles i've put on it and i'd like to keep it going even after the eventual timing chain/ water pump replacement and then into 200k eventually replacing the engine/ transmission thanks to sweet prices on ebay motors.
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Apr 6, 2017 03:21
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Raluek posted:STR and other Honda-knowing folks: That's a very early D series (it's mechanically identical to the EW4, but was renamed to a D15 for the 87 model year), but a bit of a unicorn in the D series family. If you can track down an 86-89 DOHC ZC engine (not the SOHC version), that would probably be the easiest performance swap. Otherwise you're pretty much limited to a D15A3/EW4 unless you want to do a bit of work. It looks like this covers a later D series swap into that car in greater detail. Doesn't look as straightforward as I'd hoped (particularly with having to track down 86-89 Integra parts, those all rusted into the ground decades ago even in the rust-free south). d-series.org may or may not be helpful. I've never really read through it, but it comes up a lot in google searches when I'm looking for info on the D series. Keep in mind Hondas of that era don't use cam bearings - they just use caps. Valve adjustments are very much a regular maintenance item (30k) on Hondas of that era, and timing belts/water pumps are an every 60k deal. Cam swap is pretty easy, but make sure to pull the cam (if it's still in the head) and make sure the parts of the head it rides in aren't scored (remember, no cam bearings there). shovelbum posted:What car is most like a 98 civic but can go slightly offroad better? The civic is ok on snowmobile trails in the summer if you keep the gas slammed down but if you gotta slow down it sinks in the sand A 1st generation CR-V would be the most similar. It's based on the 96-00 Civic (much of the interior is the same, even), with an engine based on the non-VTEC Integra engine of that era (it's a bored out version that bumps it up to 2.0L from 1.8L). They can be had pretty cheap these days, and came in both FWD and AWD versions. Plan on changing the timing belt and water pump immediately if you go that route unless the seller has proof that it was done in the past ~90k. They're spartan (... much like a 98 Civic), but generally reliable so long as basic maintenance has been kept up with. The same issues that will sideline a Civic will also sideline a CR-V (lack of timing belt maintenance, main fuel relay, and a couple of ignition system components). havent heard a peep posted:I just hit 142,000 on a 2003 acura rsx base 5spd. the serpentine belt squeaks when it's wet out. a coworker recommended that i order the serpentine belt, and new pulleys *especially the idle pulley* on rockauto and find a shop that will replace parts that they don't order with markup. The timing chain/water pump isn't a maintenance item on the RSX; timing belts/water pumps were an every few years thing on the timing belt driven Honda engines, but the chain is a lifetime part on the K series engine, and the water pump can be replaced without removing the timing chain. The earlier timing chain tensioners had issues, but there's a lot of aftermarket parts out there that fixes that issue. (beyond that I don't know much about the K series though, since i've never owned one) 200k is barely broken in for that engine, so long as you keep up with basic maintenance. If you don't keep up with oil changes, the VTEC solenoid oil screen will eventually clog up and piss off the ECU, but it's a relatively easy fix from what I've seen. I would listen to your friend about the serpentine belt. 142k, if it's never been done, is really pushing it. A quick look at Rockauto only shows a tensioner pulley (you can replace just the pulley on it, or the entire tensioner). I'd just order the complete tensioner and be done with it; all 4 of the brands they stock for your car are fine. I don't see an idler pulley in the belt diagram, just the tensioner. I don't see any reason to replace any other pulleys either. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 04:33
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Car: 1966 Corvette Engine: 327, 300hp Color: Sunfire Yellow Problem: This probably has a simple solution that I'm too annoyed to see. I'm getting the Corvette ready for the summer now that it's finally warm enough to work in the garage. In the following diagram, Part 27 is just a brass 90* elbow that screws into the side of the fuel pump. 5034-S is a steel(?) tube with a flare fitting on the bottom, that screws into 27. The rubber hose fits over 5034-S and connects it to the main steel fuel line. *Diagram representative, but generally accurate.  There was a tiny fuel leak where 27 fits into the inlet. It wasn't even snugged down and turned freely. I had to remove 5034-S to turn 27, because 5034-S is too long and contacts the frame rail before 27 was even close to snug. As you can see in the photo, the elbow isn't exactly lined up properly. I was expecting it to be pointed roughly upward, but it's pointed directly at the frame rail, about 90* too far. There's no way to fit the next piece in like this; and it's not really that tight yet anyway. I can probably get it another 1/8 turn or so, but there's no way it's spinning another 3/4 to point upward. Is there a trick to this or am I just missing something painfully simple? That's the frame rail across the bottom of the pic, so the engine block is out of frame at the top. 
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Apr 6, 2017 05:50
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ordered the belt, tesnsioner assembly, and i scored two headlight assemblies for $84 total on ebaymotors.
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Apr 6, 2017 06:05
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Godholio posted:Car: 1966 Corvette Is it a straight thread, or a pipe thread? I'd probably just throw some (liquid PTFE) thread sealant on it, then line it up to where it's supposed to be. No tape on fuel fittings. Usually NPT fittings have enough give that you have a pretty generous range between it starting to seal up and threatening to break. But you probably have as much experience with this stuff as I do  Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That's a very early D series (it's mechanically identical to the EW4, but was renamed to a D15 for the 87 model year), but a bit of a unicorn in the D series family. Thanks for the input. Friend tells me he has recently done the timing belt and water pump, so that's dealt with. However, since there's no lifters or anything, I'm thinking it might be a good idea to do the rocker arms at the same time as the cam, since I don't want a worn out rocker to score the new cam. Good idea? I can't find anything cheaper than 12x$10 on Rockauto, but I guess it costs what it costs. E: Looks like you can get them resurfaced, I'll ask the machine shop about that when I have the head decked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGCFIPcu_jc Not exactly the same, because VTEC yo, but same sort of pad thing. Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 06:30
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How long has it been sitting? If it's been awhile, I'd be inclined to replace the timing belt anyway (dry rot etc), along with the cam seal (cam seal only because it's going off for head work anyway), but keep the other components (water pump, tensioner, idler, crank seal). Rockauto has a Gates timing belt for $15 + shipping, and that's one of the most expensive timing belts they stock for it (Gates and Goodyear are my preferred brands for belts/hoses). They have one for less than $5, but  more for a brand I know and trust on a timing belt on an interference engine...  No idea on the rockers, I've never had to deal with replacing them. They're cheap enough overall that I can't imagine new ones being a bad idea, especially if you're going with a new cam. That's rapidly getting into my "book knowledge only, no hands on experience" area, I've just R&R'd existing stuff and known good stuff on the ones I've owned. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 07:41
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:"Clean title" just means "not salvage", and your title would definitely say something about it being salvage, rebuilt, etc if that were the case. and by title you mean the official state title that the seller and buyer has to sign after I sell the car? The same piece of paper that I provide to the police officer if he or she pulls me over?
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Apr 6, 2017 08:15
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I think you're mixing up "title" and "registration". The title is a piece of paper you should never keep in the car (ideally it should stay in a safe deposit box). It's the document that proves you own the vehicle, and it's what you (and the buyer) sign when transferring ownership. It's a document that's issued only once per owner, unless lost, in which case you file for a lost title. Depending on the state, that process ranges from "a single document, ID, a few bucks, and standing in line for 30 minutes" (my state) to a massive headache. Did I mention you never leave the title in the car? The title also doesn't show when your registration expires, so it's not a substitute for a registration document. A registration is what you provide to a cop when pulled over (hence the typical "license and registration"), and in most states, is issued at the time that you renew your registration (yearly, every other year, etc). In some states they're not even required to be carried in non-commercial vehicles; Texas, for example, just gives a sticker that you place on your windshield. That sticker shows the expiration month/year in big bold print, with a partial VIN, full license plate, and county of registration (I do get a receipt, but I'm not required to keep it in the car unless it's registered as a commercial vehicle). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 08:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:How long has it been sitting? If it's been awhile, I'd be inclined to replace the timing belt anyway (dry rot etc), along with the cam seal (cam seal only because it's going off for head work anyway), but keep the other components (water pump, tensioner, idler, crank seal). Rockauto has a Gates timing belt for $15 + shipping, and that's one of the most expensive timing belts they stock for it (Gates and Goodyear are my preferred brands for belts/hoses). They have one for less than $5, but I'd end up about doubling my parts cost if I do the rockers, which is why I'm hesitant. I'll see what the machine shop has to say. It's been sitting for a year, and he must have replaced it less than a year before that. For $15, though, I'd agree with you. Easy insurance. Busy Bee posted:and by title you mean the official state title that the seller and buyer has to sign after I sell the car? The same piece of paper that I provide to the police officer if he or she pulls me over? In California, the thing you keep in your car is a proof of registration, a new one of which they mail you every year. This is not the title. The thing you keep safe and sign over to a new buyer is the title. You definitely shouldn't keep it in your car, so that if someone steals the car they can't sign the title over to themselves.  This is a normal title.  This is a salvage title. It will look somewhat different in every state, I'd imagine.
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Apr 6, 2017 08:26
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That's... almost identical to a Texas title, except the signatures go on the back when assigning it to a new owner (original owner still signs the front, but also signs the back, I think). At least the first example is like a TX title. A salvage-rebuilt title in TX has a brown border, IIRC, but it's been over a decade since I owned a salvage car. It's also been a long time since I even saw a title. Still waiting on Carmax to send me mine.  I should probably call them and figure out why I haven't received it.
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Apr 6, 2017 08:31
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Oh, one more question while I have your attention - any preference for gasket companies? I was going to go with Felpro, since I'm familiar with their quality coming from domestic stuff, but I don't know what common brands are for imports. I remember a VW-owning friend telling me that felpro stuff is no good for German cars. No idea what the done thing is for Japanese cars. I figure a gasket is a gasket, if you're sticking with stock-replacement stuff, but I figured I'd check.
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Apr 6, 2017 08:41
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I think you're mixing up "title" and "registration". Ah, that's right. Thank you for the clarification. So if there are no comments on my car being "Salvage" or "Rebuilt" on my Title then I can advertise the car as having a "Clean Title"?
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Apr 6, 2017 09:07
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Busy Bee posted:Ah, that's right. Thank you for the clarification. So if there are no comments on my car being "Salvage" or "Rebuilt" on my Title then I can advertise the car as having a "Clean Title"? Yes. Clean just means that it hasn't been branded as "salvage" or "rebuilt;" in my example, I guess it means that the red rectangle where that would be noted is "clean" of any blemishes of character 
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Apr 6, 2017 09:19
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I am not a lawyer (and I'm definitely not your lawyer, and I'm not offering legal advice, etc etc etc), but if a vehicle has been branded as salvage, prior rental, prior taxi use, etc, it's generally made very obvious on the title.Raluek posted:Oh, one more question while I have your attention - any preference for gasket companies? I was going to go with Felpro, since I'm familiar with their quality coming from domestic stuff, but I don't know what common brands are for imports. I remember a VW-owning friend telling me that felpro stuff is no good for German cars. No idea what the done thing is for Japanese cars. I figure a gasket is a gasket, if you're sticking with stock-replacement stuff, but I figured I'd check.  I try to go for OEM, otherwise it's whatever is cheapest out of Felpro, Mahle, or Victor-Reinz. Basically OEM or name brand, store brand as a last resort? Not sure about an 87 (the oldest I've owned has been a pair of 88s), but every Honda I've owned basically used formed rubber gaskets for nearly every gasket except head gaskets. Valve cover gaskets were usually tacked in around the cam opening corners in the valve cover with a drop or two of Hondabond (which is basically Permatex Ultra Grey), oil pan gaskets installed the same way around cutouts for the crank. Hondabond/RTV were basically used to make sure the gasket stayed in place during assembly, and to stop any leaks that might form on sharp corners. edit: if you do take this on, I demand pictures. It's been a long time since i've seen a 3rd gen Civic (I couldn't even find one at Pick n Pull last week), 4th gens are getting pretty rare too (only found two at Pick n Pull). I'd love to have a 4th gen (88-91) with a 92-00 D16Z6/D16Y8 (the EX trim VTEC) engine. That's basically easy mode for Honda legos, but anything outside of a D swap on a 4th gen and you start having to make some sacrifices (like air conditioning) or getting creative to retain a/c. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 09:23
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I am not a lawyer (and I'm definitely not your lawyer, and I'm not offering legal advice, etc etc etc), but if a vehicle has been branded as salvage, prior rental, prior taxi use, etc, it's generally made very obvious on the title. Fair enough. I'll make a thread if/once I decide to go forward with it. I'm at sort of a disadvantage since I didn't do most of the taking apart, so I just have a pile of parts in someone else's backyard. But I like a challenge.
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Apr 6, 2017 09:50
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So I'm an idiot and was rushing to finish up the oil change on my 2014 Mazda3 2.0L and I put in all 5 qts forgetting that i'm only supposed to put in 4.4 qts. Is this going to be a problem, should I drain some? Also I read differing views whether or not you should pre-fill your oil filter before installing a new one. Thoughts?
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Apr 6, 2017 12:49
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Please don't lose your title because if you need to get a salvage title bond there's a very good chance it'll come across my desk eventually and I don't wanna do it
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Apr 6, 2017 14:50
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Raluek posted:Yes. Clean just means that it hasn't been branded as "salvage" or "rebuilt;" in my example, I guess it means that the red rectangle where that would be noted is "clean" of any blemishes of character I've also heard "clean" used more loosely to imply there are no liens on the car, which can be a fun surprise at time of sale.
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Apr 6, 2017 15:01
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yamdankee posted:So I'm an idiot and was rushing to finish up the oil change on my 2014 Mazda3 2.0L and I put in all 5 qts forgetting that i'm only supposed to put in 4.4 qts. Is this going to be a problem, should I drain some? How's it look on the dipstick? If it's over the full line there after you've at least started it long enough to build oil pressure, then I'd take some back out. Easy if you've got a vacuum extractor. Not sure how you'd do it without one since I've never overfilled an engine without having one handy On pre filling the filter: the only thing it can hurt is making a mess. At the same time there's plenty of engines that have filters oriented so that they're impossible to effectively fill, such as horizontal, upside-down, and cartridge filters. I still do it if I can, but otherwise it just gets a small splash so I have some to spread onto the gasket.
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Apr 6, 2017 15:01
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:the other day, my neighbor's treelimb fell onto my windshield, breaking it. it also did some minor damage to the actual roof of my car, but i can't tell just how cosmetic that damage is. Stupid question, but shouldn't that be covered by your neighbor's homeowners insurance?
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Apr 6, 2017 15:11
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yamdankee posted:So I'm an idiot and was rushing to finish up the oil change on my 2014 Mazda3 2.0L and I put in all 5 qts forgetting that i'm only supposed to put in 4.4 qts. Is this going to be a problem, should I drain some? Over filling your oil can create crank airation. Basically your crank will turn into an egg beater and you will create air bubbles in the oil. The same air bubbles can strip oil off your crank bearings and wear them out. That said, half a quart probably won't hurt that much. Nobody I've come across in the industry pre fills there filters. But generally there are two different specs one with filter one without and then of course the complete engine overhaul. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 15:29
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Raluek posted:Is it a straight thread, or a pipe thread? I'd probably just throw some (liquid PTFE) thread sealant on it, then line it up to where it's supposed to be. No tape on fuel fittings. Usually NPT fittings have enough give that you have a pretty generous range between it starting to seal up and threatening to break. I believe it's NPT. I've got some fuel line-safe sealant that I intended to use, but I didn't think that would be enough to hold it in place and sealed through engine vibration. Tape would probably fix the looseness, but yeah I have no interest in trying to ungum the carb.
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Apr 6, 2017 15:41
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Sealant on the threads might lubricate it enough to get that extra turn.
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Apr 6, 2017 15:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Stupid question, but shouldn't that be covered by your neighbor's homeowners insurance? trees are a dicey issue because surprise insurance companies hate paying for other people's poo poo. even though the tree limb was dead, only fell because it was dead, and my neighbor knew it was dead, i'm still not really expecting to get anything from their insurance. in a vacuum, yeah, they'd pay my insurance company back and get me my deductible back, but i'd still be on the hook for it in the interim.
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Apr 6, 2017 16:13
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Is there anywhere I can buy only the long, flat 3/8 breaker bar from a serpentine belt kit? My harbor freight one broke and I don't need the other parts of the kit because I already have them. I can't fit a regular 3/8 breaker bar in there and need the flat one.
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Apr 6, 2017 16:20
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Godholio posted:I believe it's NPT. I've got some fuel line-safe sealant that I intended to use, but I didn't think that would be enough to hold it in place and sealed through engine vibration. Tape would probably fix the looseness, but yeah I have no interest in trying to ungum the carb. Go to a parts store and ask for high pressure fuel line hose clamps.
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Apr 6, 2017 16:23
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Preoptopus posted:Nobody I've come across in the industry pre fills there filters. But generally there are two different specs one with filter one without and then of course the complete engine overhaul. I think of pre-filling as something for much larger engines, never really heard much about it in the automotive world.
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Apr 6, 2017 17:22
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Pympede posted:Buying off road tires for my Tacoma, 265/70R17, thinking of going with BFGoodrich K02. How big of a difference is there going to be between the E load rating and the C load rating? I've heard that the C is better for offroading if you're not planning on hauling but I don't know how big of a difference there will be. Any advice?
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Apr 6, 2017 17:59
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Dealer did me a favor by only charging me 1 hour labor ($130+tax) to take off carpet, seats, wiring etc. and they are still unable to find the source of my Fiesta leak/soaked footwell.  apparently they're not seeing any water, ran it through car washes and sat it out in the rain. Which leads me to believe it is coming from the bottom of the car maybe while I am driving.I bet a body shop would be able to narrow it down but I'd have to pay for the whole furniture moving shabang again. Thing's a goddamn 2015 lemon. If only I could get a solid yes/no from Ford Corporate without going through the Phillipines call center and re-explaining everything each time. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 18:48
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Michael Scott posted:Dealer did me a favor by only charging me 1 hour labor ($130+tax) to take off carpet, seats, wiring etc. and they are still unable to find the source of my Fiesta leak/soaked footwell. Sit in the back while someone drives through a touchless autowash with underbody flush. Comedy Options 1) drive it into Lake Michigan and see where the air bubbles are coming from 2) tell Trump, I hear he is looking for leaks 3) put some soil and seeds where the water collects and grow a marijauna hemp weed plant
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Apr 6, 2017 18:56
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Michael Scott posted:Dealer did me a favor by only charging me 1 hour labor ($130+tax) to take off carpet, seats, wiring etc. and they are still unable to find the source of my Fiesta leak/soaked footwell. This is your punishment for buying, and suggesting others buy, a former rental.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:05
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Michael Scott posted:Dealer did me a favor by only charging me 1 hour labor ($130+tax) to take off carpet, seats, wiring etc. and they are still unable to find the source of my Fiesta leak/soaked footwell. Front passenger footwell? Leaking heater core bruh.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:23
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Michael Scott posted:($130+tax) Holy poo poo, that's 1 hour? Is that normal? This is why my girlfriend uses a mechanic in a shack in her rural hometown with a $10/hr labor rate.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:28
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Typical dealer rate. Most charge 35 just to pull the car into the garage. Our chain shop is 110 an hour and we are on the cheaper side of being competative in our local market. I usually charge 50 an hour for side work.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:32
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Preoptopus posted:Front passenger footwell? Leaking heater core bruh. Rear passenger I think this is a curse of a used car in general. You could argue that because this car didn't have 1 owner for 2 years, maybe the leak wasn't noticed the same, but other than that it is no different than a nonrental. This is just extreme bad luck. Oh well! I will still be optimistic about life :-/ shovelbum posted:Holy poo poo, that's 1 hour? Is that normal? This is why my girlfriend uses a mechanic in a shack in her rural hometown with a $10/hr labor rate. Yes, it sucks. The chains and regular mechanics are 90-110 around here in a major city and 130 is a normal dealer rate. They must make bank.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:36
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Well if you are a little two bay shop where the owner and maybe one other guy are wrenching then yes. Big stores have huge overhead. We pay 2500 a month in heating alone during winter months. When you break it down your aiming for a 70 percent profit margin on service work which is still pretty high I admit but consistantly hitting that is a big task.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:45
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Preoptopus posted:When you break it down your aiming for a 70 percent profit margin on service work which is still pretty high I admit but consistantly hitting that is a big task. Does this mean 70% margin for just mechanic salary vs. labor rate?
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Apr 6, 2017 20:39
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No it doesn't include overhead (including salary) Just parts and labor rate.
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Apr 6, 2017 20:45
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