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Brute Squad
Dec 20, 2006

Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human race

From the shitstorm that is the bathroom overhaul thread. I'm crossposting here because I'm trying to understand plumbing vents better and it got lost in the shitstorm.

There used to be a tub here. The black pipe visible runs to a vertical pipe that I can only assume is a vent pipe.

Another view of the before. For those not following the shitstorm of a thread, yes, he did cut through the top of several engineered joists. That's where the shitstorm really started.

(The real question) Did he just ruin the effectiveness of the vent on the tub drain line? He switched the connection to the vent from coming out of the top of the drain line to coming out of the side.

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Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Brute Squad posted:

From the shitstorm that is the bathroom overhaul thread. I'm crossposting here because I'm trying to understand plumbing vents better and it got lost in the shitstorm.

There used to be a tub here. The black pipe visible runs to a vertical pipe that I can only assume is a vent pipe.

Another view of the before. For those not following the shitstorm of a thread, yes, he did cut through the top of several engineered joists. That's where the shitstorm really started.

(The real question) Did he just ruin the effectiveness of the vent on the tub drain line? He switched the connection to the vent from coming out of the top of the drain line to coming out of the side.

You can roll a vent to the side but the bottom of the rolled wye with a 45 in it has to be above the top of the drain pipe its rolling from.

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009
Okay question about cleaning out storm pipe drains I have got 4 inch plastic piping around the house that takes rain water removes it away. however most of the pipes are pretty well clogged up with dirt and there's some sections I have a lot of sand and small rocks or Pebbles. what would be the best way to clean these drains out? I've already looked into renting an auger with a 50-foot cable on it. is there a head or a blade for the other that would be best suited for this or should just any cutter blade work? the biggest thing I'm worried about is the sand part of it because Water is really not going to move the Sand and rock there's not going to be enough water flow. Any suggestions?

Hexel
Nov 18, 2011




Currently having a major plumbing problem right now. We have an old house built in 1925. It has a wet fire suppression system (sprinklers). The water supply to the system has a leak in the pipe where a previous owner had placed a patch/clamp. This old clamp is rusted and corroded and leaking.

The interesting part is: when we turn our main water shutoff off at the street, water is still coming out of this pipe. We turned the flow off to the system using both available shutoff valves so its not backflow. I've had 2 different plumbers out since yesterday and they both said: they've never seen that before.

I called the city and they said: that cant be possible and they've never heard of a house having 2 different or separate municipal supplies. We scoured our property looking for some kind of overlooked shutoff for this sytem and there is none. We dug as deep as we can in the available space and this supply line goes straight into the ground, theres no way to tell which way it runs across our property. Anyone ever come across something like this? Currently we're waiting on the city to come out and see this for themselves since they dont believe me that theres still water coming to this line after shutting it off at the street level.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


It's not at all uncommon for valves to fail to hold when they haven't been regularly exercised or when they get old. You may just have water leaking past closed valves.

Hexel
Nov 18, 2011




glynnenstein posted:

It's not at all uncommon for valves to fail to hold when they haven't been regularly exercised or when they get old. You may just have water leaking past closed valves.

The line stays fully pressurized while multiple buildings turn off from the water box by the street. Its not a faulty valve.

Anyways, the city came out and looked at it and said they have no idea why our sprinkler system is separate from the main shutoff. They said its about a 3day process to turn the whole block off because they have to figure where and what to turn off then notify all affected residents 24 hours in advance.

They also said its entirely possible theres an old supply line coming from the street thats been paved over for many years. Currently we are digging up our yard trying to find where this line runs until an excavation plumber can come next week and do a wet cut :smith:

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Weird. Commercial buildings often have a separate fire sprinkler line into the building, but I've only see it for high-rise type things.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Orange Red Bull posted:

They also said its entirely possible theres an old supply line coming from the street thats been paved over for many years. Currently we are digging up our yard trying to find where this line runs until an excavation plumber can come next week and do a wet cut :smith:
gently caress, LOL. Let us know the resolution. With pictures!

If it makes you feel any better, when I bought my house out in the county and was remodeling before moving in, I had the well pump turned off, and the system kept getting re-pressurized on its own. I scratched my head and asked everyone I could, was thinking about weird poo poo like the well behaving like an artisan well by some heretofore unseen hydraulic pressure that appeared to defy physics. (I eliminated this of course, haha)

After a couple weeks I made contact with the guy that originally built the place, and he informed me that they used to own the next property over, and there was a connecting pipe between their well and mine. (I think they used one well originally, then left the tie as a backup) He told me roundabout where to find the shutoff.

....400' of 1¼" pvc with a buried ball valve on both ends. One was leaking, the other was open. I had to dig up my neighbor's yard but it is absolutely disconnected now!

minivanmegafun
Jul 27, 2004

I have an 1885 post and frame 2-story cottage in Chicago and I've got two water feeds. It's apparently common enough that when I asked the city to install a meter on my property the first thing they did when they got onsite was search for the second feed. I had no idea it existed.

It did solve the mystery of why I have garbage hot water pressure but great cold at my kitchen sink - apparently the only thing on the second feed is my cold water supply for that sink.

Now they get to tear up my sidewalk and install a meter in a vault, hooray. At least it's free for me and it locks in my water rate for 7 years, and even if I followed retail it would still be cheaper than the flat rate I pay for water now.

Jadunk
Feb 27, 2013

Orange Red Bull posted:

The line stays fully pressurized while multiple buildings turn off from the water box by the street. Its not a faulty valve.

Anyways, the city came out and looked at it and said they have no idea why our sprinkler system is separate from the main shutoff. They said its about a 3day process to turn the whole block off because they have to figure where and what to turn off then notify all affected residents 24 hours in advance.

They also said its entirely possible there's an old supply line coming from the street that's been paved over for many years. Currently we are digging up our yard trying to find where this line runs until an excavation plumber can come next week and do a wet cut :smith:

Sounds like you have 2 lines coming in, yeah. Common in commercial buildings and not unheard of for houses in my area. (though still not common) A second feed line the city doesn't know about is something I've seen a couple times, hopefully they're nicer to you than they were to my customer when we notified them about the second line. (they basically tried to go back and charge an estimated fee for past use) If it's leaking badly now you could still try to throw a wrap around repair clamp on there.

Hexel
Nov 18, 2011




Theres actually 2 clamps on it right now: an old corroded one that someone had slapped on many years ago which is the whole cause of the current leak and a new clamp one of the first plumbers i had come out put on it when he went to cut the pipe and the thing started spraying even with our main shutoff off.

I finally got the city to investigate and acknowledge that there is 2 lines here and somebody is supposed to come out Tuesday to show us where it is.

Hexel
Nov 18, 2011




So many years ago a previous owner came across the exact same problem im having now and instead of fixing it proper they put a clamp on it and called it done. Kicked it on down the road of time for me.

I can even see spots in our driveway that were broken up and then patched probably them trying to find where this second line ties in to the city.

Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.
(sorry in advance for the novel)

I've got some modest plumbing experience (changed out sinks, toilets, shutoff valves is about it) but before I call a plumber for a flooding problem I wanted to run it past you guys for a 2nd opinion. Quick backstory:

I've lived in my house since 2009 and this particular flooding problem has happened about 5 times, always while I was at work or while we were asleep (until today). What would happen, is I'd come home and my laundry/utility room, with painted concrete floor, would be covered in about 2 inches of water. The floor is slightly dipped in the middle so of course the water would collect there. To make matters more confusing, there's a sink and a toilet in there too. Apparently the previous owners had thought about renting out the downstairs and wanted an all-in-one room minus a shower. Anyway here's a rough sketch of the room:



Anyway fast forward to today. I come inside (just finsihed 2 hours of mowing) and heard the washing machine drain after a spin cycle. I then heard what sounded like a pitcher of water hitting the floor from chin height. I run downstairs and see the toilet overflowing rushing out from the bowl AND from between the bowl and the floor. Now this happened as recently as 3 weeks ago, and I've had the toilet shutoff the whole time because I've been meaning to replace the wax ring (only toilet I haven't full on replaced in the house) and because I was trying to narrow down the list of possibilities.

So I open the washer lid to stop the draining and proceed to throw 10,000 towels on the floor to soak it all up before it gets under the washer/dryer/desk/litter box/etc. I get all the towels in place, get the rest of the water with a broom and dustpan, and notice some is going under thew all into my garage which shares a wall (never happened before) anyway that's not a big deal. I've got a dryer hose going through the wall so I removed it and slapped a squirrel cage fan in there to dry it all out.

Anyway, I go back in the laundry room and see the toilet bowl is now completely empty. I close the washer lid to start it draining again and boom it's like a geyser squirting up a couple of inches from the toilet and it starts to fill again, and starts to leak out the base of the toilet between it and the floor at about the rate someone taking a piss would piss, not a ton but quite a bit. I shut the lid again before it overflows. The towels wrapped around the toilet soak it all up, and the bowl drains again. I then close the lid again (to try and finish the cycle of baby clothes) and when the toilet fills I take a bucket and manage to dump a few bucketloads into the nearby sink and it finishes draining, then stops backing up/flooding again.

It did rain pretty heavily a few days ago, but we've done COUNTLESS loads of laundry without any issue during all kinds of rain before and I'm stumped as to what the issue could be. Where the washer drains out (right behind it) is BONE dry and nothing appears backed up there. There's a thing in the garage, not sure what it's called, but basically a manhole cover looking thing and the water it is about a foot down so that appears normal too and everything above that foot has never ever been wet since I owned the place, it's disgustingly dusty/dry.

Any ideas or suggestions before I call in a plumber and have him check it all out? Would something as simple as a failed wax ring cause all of this? What the hell is going on?



--- Here in a few hours I'm going to try to do another load of laundry to see if I can recreate this flooding. What blows my mind even more, is there have been a few times over the years when this has happened when the washer wasn't running at all. The dishwasher has ran and/or upstairs toilets may have flushed but I can't find any common cause for this.

--- Quick example of last time it happened a few months back: The dishwasher was started before we went to sleep. I get up the next morning and on my way out for work I go into the room to scoop the litter box and BAM splish/splash it's flooded. But we've ran the dishwasher overnight a zillion other times without issue. Narrowing this down is a real bitch and I hope it's not a huge major issue

Tyson Tomko fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 8, 2017

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Tyson Tomko posted:

(sorry in advance for the novel)

I've got some modest plumbing experience (changed out sinks, toilets, shutoff valves is about it) but before I call a plumber for a flooding problem I wanted to run it past you guys for a 2nd opinion. Quick backstory:

I've lived in my house since 2009 and this particular flooding problem has happened about 5 times, always while I was at work or while we were asleep (until today). What would happen, is I'd come home and my laundry/utility room, with painted concrete floor, would be covered in about 2 inches of water. The floor is slightly dipped in the middle so of course the water would collect there. To make matters more confusing, there's a sink and a toilet in there too. Apparently the previous owners had thought about renting out the downstairs and wanted an all-in-one room minus a shower. Anyway here's a rough sketch of the room:



Anyway fast forward to today. I come inside (just finsihed 2 hours of mowing) and heard the washing machine drain after a spin cycle. I then heard what sounded like a pitcher of water hitting the floor from chin height. I run downstairs and see the toilet overflowing rushing out from the bowl AND from between the bowl and the floor. Now this happened as recently as 3 weeks ago, and I've had the toilet shutoff the whole time because I've been meaning to replace the wax ring (only toilet I haven't full on replaced in the house) and because I was trying to narrow down the list of possibilities.

So I open the washer lid to stop the draining and proceed to throw 10,000 towels on the floor to soak it all up before it gets under the washer/dryer/desk/litter box/etc. I get all the towels in place, get the rest of the water with a broom and dustpan, and notice some is going under thew all into my garage which shares a wall (never happened before) anyway that's not a big deal. I've got a dryer hose going through the wall so I removed it and slapped a squirrel cage fan in there to dry it all out.

Anyway, I go back in the laundry room and see the toilet bowl is now completely empty. I close the washer lid to start it draining again and boom it's like a geyser squirting up a couple of inches from the toilet and it starts to fill again, and starts to leak out the base of the toilet between it and the floor at about the rate someone taking a piss would piss, not a ton but quite a bit. I shut the lid again before it overflows. The towels wrapped around the toilet soak it all up, and the bowl drains again. I then close the lid again (to try and finish the cycle of baby clothes) and when the toilet fills I take a bucket and manage to dump a few bucketloads into the nearby sink and it finishes draining, then stops backing up/flooding again.

It did rain pretty heavily a few days ago, but we've done COUNTLESS loads of laundry without any issue during all kinds of rain before and I'm stumped as to what the issue could be. Where the washer drains out (right behind it) is BONE dry and nothing appears backed up there. There's a thing in the garage, not sure what it's called, but basically a manhole cover looking thing and the water it is about a foot down so that appears normal too and everything above that foot has never ever been wet since I owned the place, it's disgustingly dusty/dry.

Any ideas or suggestions before I call in a plumber and have him check it all out? Would something as simple as a failed wax ring cause all of this? What the hell is going on?



--- Here in a few hours I'm going to try to do another load of laundry to see if I can recreate this flooding. What blows my mind even more, is there have been a few times over the years when this has happened when the washer wasn't running at all. The dishwasher has ran and/or upstairs toilets may have flushed but I can't find any common cause for this.

You have a plugged drain. It is showing up at the lowest point (which is the toilet ) The clean out (manhole lol) should not have any water sitting in it. The drain should look dry or you should see water flowing in it when you look into it.

Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.

Turd Herder posted:

You have a plugged drain. It is showing up at the lowest point (which is the toilet ) The clean out (manhole lol) should not have any water sitting in it. The drain should look dry or you should see water flowing in it when you look into it.

Thanks for the super quick reply and please forgive my ignorance lol. I've done a lot of random plumbing stuff but this stuff in particular is all new to me but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about.

The "manhole" thing and what I assume is the drain have sat under a desk in my garage since I've owned the place and I've never touched them. Please forgive the nastiness of it all, there's poo poo and dust everywhere that the flash only makes look worse.

Manhole/clean out:


Cover removed showing standing water:


Is this the drain I'd need to work on?



Like I said I'm willing to do anything and get my hands dirty but if I'm in over my head I'm not afraid to call in the pros.

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Tyson Tomko posted:

Thanks for the super quick reply and please forgive my ignorance lol. I've done a lot of random plumbing stuff but this stuff in particular is all new to me but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about.

The "manhole" thing and what I assume is the drain have sat under a desk in my garage since I've owned the place and I've never touched them. Please forgive the nastiness of it all, there's poo poo and dust everywhere that the flash only makes look worse.

Manhole/clean out:


Cover removed showing standing water:


Is this the drain I'd need to work on?



Like I said I'm willing to do anything and get my hands dirty but if I'm in over my head I'm not afraid to call in the pros.

Ohhh that pit you showed isn't what I assumed. Wtf is that. That looks gross . With the corrugated pipe it almost makes me think it was a sump for rain water. But i'm not to sure what that is exactly.

The last picture is a end of the line clean out I assume.

I still think your sewer in backing up thats why you have water coming back up.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Tyson Tomko posted:

Thanks for the super quick reply and please forgive my ignorance lol. I've done a lot of random plumbing stuff but this stuff in particular is all new to me but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about.

The "manhole" thing and what I assume is the drain have sat under a desk in my garage since I've owned the place and I've never touched them. Please forgive the nastiness of it all, there's poo poo and dust everywhere that the flash only makes look worse.

Manhole/clean out:


Cover removed showing standing water:


Is this the drain I'd need to work on?



Like I said I'm willing to do anything and get my hands dirty but if I'm in over my head I'm not afraid to call in the pros.

Uh, no, that's a french drain crock, designed to catch groundwater in your basement. If that starts filling up (which it may do after a lot of precipitation events) you should have a sump pump installed to carry that water away from your house or, if code permits it, into your sewer circuit.

Speaking of which, that is not the sewer circuit. Your problem has nothing to do with your french drain, which is a completely different, and closed, system.

Your toilet (and, hopefully, all of you other house plumbing) drains into your sewer circuit. What you have is a blockage, full or partial, of the sewer line, past your toilet but before it hits the municipal system out in the street. This line could be:

- blocked by crap, "feminine hygiene products," a Barbie doll, etc;
- a broken, collapsed or dislocated spot/section;
- infested & blocked by tree roots, or
- has settled, swayback-style, so that you have a low spot that inhibits good drainage.

As previously noted, that basement toilet is the lowest spot on your soil circuit, which is why it's the fountain of crap when the washer drains.

Why is it intermittent? You'll know when the line is cleaned out or checked with a sewer camera.

If you have a septic system, then boy howdy I have some bad news for you if your soil line is clear out to the leach field.

You will need to pull the toilet, unless you have an actual cleanout somewhere downstream of it (which is what your second photo appears to be; I am guessing that that cleanout is not near, or at least not in line, with the sump pump crock in the first photo) and either:

a) rent a power auger from somewhere and get cracking; or
b) hire a drain cleaning service who can do a) and then also run a camera if/when they hit something solid downstream and tell you why you have a random poo poo fountain.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Apr 9, 2017

Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.

Turd Herder posted:

Ohhh that pit you showed isn't what I assumed. Wtf is that. That looks gross . With the corrugated pipe it almost makes me think it was a sump for rain water. But i'm not to sure what that is exactly.

I knew it was for water overflow to an extent but ignorant me didn't know exactly what for. The previous owner said it had never gotten above a certain line (way down into it) and the fact I live on a little mound of a hill I'm sure does me all sorts of favors there too.

The flash being on made it look way grosser than it actually is. Most of that scuzz is a very fine layer of dried dirt/dust/sawdust that's worked its way under the little metal shield. I admit I didn't realize there were a few dead bugs down there. Once I get this whole situation taken care of I'm cleaning that sucker up. Knowing it's called a french drain crock (DUH I've got french drains/weeping tiles) makes nothing but sense now looking back on it.

I'm totally fine with getting a sump pump for it if necessary but it's never came close to overflowing in the years I've lived here. There's a fine layer of dust near it that's to my knowledge never once been interrupted... at least until today when the water rushed in so hard it went under the wall. More on that in a sec.


PainterofCrap posted:

Uh, no, that's a french drain crock, designed to catch groundwater in your basement. If that starts filling up (which it may do after a lot of precipitation events) you should have a sump pump installed to carry that water away from your house or, if code permits it, into your sewer circuit.

Speaking of which, that is not the sewer circuit. Your problem has nothing to do with your french drain, which is a completely different, and closed, system.

Good deal! Like I said just above duh makes sense now, I've known about weeping tiles for a bit but never put 2 and 2 together. I just wanted to included all the info I could just in case.

PainterofCrap posted:

If you have a septic system, then boy howdy I have some bad news for you if your soil line is clear out to the leach field.

You will need to pull the toilet, unless you have an actual cleanout somewhere downstream of it (which is what your second photo appears to be; I am guessing that that cleanout is not near, or at least not in line, with the sump pump crock in the first photo) and either:

a) rent a power auger from somewhere and get cracking; or
b) hire a drain cleaning service who can do a) and then also run a camera if/when they hit something solid downstream and tell you why you have a random poo poo fountain.

No septic system, so that's one thing I don't have to worry about thankfully.

I'm game for pulling the toilet, but to answer your next question yeah it's all relatively close actually.


(the fact water rushed under the wall, then was dried with a fan left all kinds of dirt/dust/sawdust everywhere I need to clean up still, I've only pulled the baseboards at this point. Of course this happened when I hadn't swept)

The sketch of the laundry room and toilet shares a wall with what is pictured here (back of toilet and back of dryer are up against said wall). I've done some googling around on cleanouts and have learned a shitload. My front yard is treeless so I should be ok root wise but the previous owners had several girls so I wouldn't be surprised if there are some super long term tampons hanging around. This problem has mostly likely existed in some for or another for a long time, and may even explain our occasional toilet flushing/low drainage issues. It feels really drat good to be almost to the bottom of things.

I'm either going to bust into the toilet and/or that cleanout with an auger or may cave and hire someone to do it for me. Any other suggestions or advice before I get cracking?

-- Actually googling around for random diagrams of cleanouts and how it all connects to the main city sewages lines makes me realize I'm in over my head here. I was thinking it would be a few feet of pipe similar to a clogged toilet/sink but if it's anywhere between the cleanout and the end of my long rear end driverway (under dirt and concrete) all the way to the main sewer that's a long rear end distance. There are no trees in that area thankfully (my driveway is a part of a circle drive type layout) but all of our utilites are ran underground (no overhead lines rule) and gently caress me if anything needs dug up. Thanks for the good rear end diagnosis my goon friends!

Tyson Tomko fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Apr 9, 2017

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Tyson Tomko posted:

I knew it was for water overflow to an extent but ignorant me didn't know exactly what for. The previous owner said it had never gotten above a certain line (way down into it) and the fact I live on a little mound of a hill I'm sure does me all sorts of favors there too.

The flash being on made it look way grosser than it actually is. Most of that scuzz is a very fine layer of dried dirt/dust/sawdust that's worked its way under the little metal shield. I admit I didn't realize there were a few dead bugs down there. Once I get this whole situation taken care of I'm cleaning that sucker up. Knowing it's called a french drain crock (DUH I've got french drains/weeping tiles) makes nothing but sense now looking back on it.

I'm totally fine with getting a sump pump for it if necessary but it's never came close to overflowing in the years I've lived here. There's a fine layer of dust near it that's to my knowledge never once been interrupted... at least until today when the water rushed in so hard it went under the wall. More on that in a sec.


Good deal! Like I said just above duh makes sense now, I've known about weeping tiles for a bit but never put 2 and 2 together. I just wanted to included all the info I could just in case.


No septic system, so that's one thing I don't have to worry about thankfully.

I'm game for pulling the toilet, but to answer your next question yeah it's all relatively close actually.


(the fact water rushed under the wall, then was dried with a fan left all kinds of dirt/dust/sawdust everywhere I need to clean up still, I've only pulled the baseboards at this point. Of course this happened when I hadn't swept)

The sketch of the laundry room and toilet shares a wall with what is pictured here (back of toilet and back of dryer are up against said wall). I've done some googling around on cleanouts and have learned a shitload. My front yard is treeless so I should be ok root wise but the previous owners had several girls so I wouldn't be surprised if there are some super long term tampons hanging around. This problem has mostly likely existed in some for or another for a long time, and may even explain our occasional toilet flushing/low drainage issues. It feels really drat good to be almost to the bottom of things.

I'm either going to bust into the toilet and/or that cleanout with an auger or may cave and hire someone to do it for me. Any other suggestions or advice before I get cracking?

-- Actually googling around for random diagrams of cleanouts and how it all connects to the main city sewages lines makes me realize I'm in over my head here. I was thinking it would be a few feet of pipe similar to a clogged toilet/sink but if it's anywhere between the cleanout and the end of my long rear end driverway (under dirt and concrete) all the way to the main sewer that's a long rear end distance. There are no trees in that area thankfully (my driveway is a part of a circle drive type layout) but all of our utilites are ran underground (no overhead lines rule) and gently caress me if anything needs dug up. Thanks for the good rear end diagnosis my goon friends!

You can figure out how far the clog is. Run a garden hose into the washing machine drain till it starts to back up out of the toilet (this may take minutes or 25 minutes. Then go get yourself a stick of 3" abs (im assuming its 3" and not 4".) can one end of the ten foot stick and time how long it takes. Now divide how long the toilet began to back up by how long that 10 ft stick took to fill and you can get a rough distance.

Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.

Turd Herder posted:

You can figure out how far the clog is. Run a garden hose into the washing machine drain till it starts to back up out of the toilet (this may take minutes or 25 minutes. Then go get yourself a stick of 3" abs (im assuming its 3" and not 4".) can one end of the ten foot stick and time how long it takes. Now divide how long the toilet began to back up by how long that 10 ft stick took to fill and you can get a rough distance.

Ok that's a really smart rear end idea that makes 100% sense. My only concern there is I don't think it's a complete clog, otherwise my thousands of loads of laundry/dishes would have been all backed up somewhere (unless there's a break in the pipe somewhere or some jazz) but either way I'll give it a shot, thanks!


Now for a MUCH simpler and less scary question, and what I planned on posting today before this minor flood disaster happened. The same toilet we've been talking about has a leaky shutoff valve and I've been meaning to replace the water line with stainless and put on one of those metal rings to cover the hole in the drywall.

Here's a pic before my question:



So I want to replace the valve. I've worked with copper a ton but not much plastic/PVC. Does the existing valve just unscrew here? I'm worried that it's glued or something else and the last thing I need to have happen now is to bust a water pipe requiring me to shut off the entire house's water to stop. Would it be as easy as grabbing the plastic/pvc end with a wrench and grabbing the valve when a wrench and turning?

Lladre
Jun 28, 2011


Soiled Meat
Is PEX and or Shark Bite still a no go for a bathroom?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Lladre posted:

Is PEX and or Shark Bite still a no go for a bathroom?

PEX is not a problem, but I still consider shark bites to be temporary. If it's easily accessible.........eh.....you'll be fine. Just have an extra on hand.

Lladre
Jun 28, 2011


Soiled Meat
I see why I was confused, they apparently sell some sort of easy on easy off thing. (Video I saw was for a compression band thing)

I was thinking more of the compression ring with plex. It's going to be in a finished wall with no access.

Jadunk
Feb 27, 2013

Turd Herder posted:

(im assuming its 3" and not 4".)

Huh, do they not require sewers to be 4" where you live?

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Jadunk posted:

Huh, do they not require sewers to be 4" where you live?

In washington it has to be 4" out of the building but up to the exit of the building it wouldn't be. What does your code require?

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system
I've got a toilet that is constantly running. I can see ripples in the bowl water, but the tank never refills by itself, so I am unclear in where the water is coming from. I've lowered the float level, so the water is well below the overflow.
I've also replaced the flapper valve (about 3 months ago for an unrelated issue) and it still runs.
Where else can a leak come from?

minivanmegafun
Jul 27, 2004

Drop some food dye in the tank and see if it goes into the bowl (it almost certainly will). Your flapper is likely leaky.

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system
If the flapper was leaky, the tank level would drop and it would refill?

This doesn't happen, it's a constant flow. I'll try that anyway, just in case.

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008

JimbobDobalina posted:

I've got a toilet that is constantly running. I can see ripples in the bowl water, but the tank never refills by itself, so I am unclear in where the water is coming from. I've lowered the float level, so the water is well below the overflow.
I've also replaced the flapper valve (about 3 months ago for an unrelated issue) and it still runs.
Where else can a leak come from?

Flush the toilet, and then lift up the float. Does the refill valve totally shut off? Some of the water is directed down the overflow while the tank fills.

minivanmegafun
Jul 27, 2004

JimbobDobalina posted:

If the flapper was leaky, the tank level would drop and it would refill?

This doesn't happen, it's a constant flow. I'll try that anyway, just in case.

Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, i'm just a clumsy homeowner.

However, you don't seem to know how toilets work. For a quick demo, grab a bucket of water and slowly trickle it into the bowl. The water level should stay where it is, as water slowly gets pushed over the edge of the bend and into the waste side.

Now refill the bucket and dump it in - you'll get a flush.

The first scenario is what a leaky flapper looks like. You just slowly waste water into the bowl.

Oh, also, as the poster above said, you could be dumping water down the overflow.

Jadunk
Feb 27, 2013

Turd Herder posted:

In washington it has to be 4" out of the building but up to the exit of the building it wouldn't be. What does your code require?

4", though there's talk they might finally update it to reflect the reality of 1.28 or less toilets / HE washers and reduce it to 3" at some point. The way you phrase your previous comment made me think you were allowed to run 3" out.

JimbobDobalina posted:

I've got a toilet that is constantly running. I can see ripples in the bowl water, but the tank never refills by itself, so I am unclear in where the water is coming from. I've lowered the float level, so the water is well below the overflow.
I've also replaced the flapper valve (about 3 months ago for an unrelated issue) and it still runs.
Where else can a leak come from?

Sounds like either your flapper has failed again, fill valve is shot or some combination of both. Swap 'em both out and call it a day.

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008

minivanmegafun posted:

Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, i'm just a clumsy homeowner.

However, you don't seem to know how toilets work. For a quick demo, grab a bucket of water and slowly trickle it into the bowl. The water level should stay where it is, as water slowly gets pushed over the edge of the bend and into the waste side.

Now refill the bucket and dump it in - you'll get a flush.

The first scenario is what a leaky flapper looks like. You just slowly waste water into the bowl.

Oh, also, as the poster above said, you could be dumping water down the overflow.

The tank would need to refill eventually as the flapper valve leaked. That's what they are saying isn't happening, but if it's slow enough they may have just not seen it yet.

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system

Guy Axlerod posted:

The tank would need to refill eventually as the flapper valve leaked. That's what they are saying isn't happening, but if it's slow enough they may have just not seen it yet.

It's been leaking like this for months, and it's never once refilled the tank on it's own. My city doesn't charge for water usage, so even though it's a bit wasteful it's been low on my list of things to get fixed...

I put red food colouring in the tank over an hour ago as someone else suggested, and while I can still see the ripples in the water there is no sign of any red. The tank water is bright red. Thus I can say a leaky flapper valve is not the cause.

Now, there is a small tube, about 1/8" dia that goes from the valve straight down the overflow pipe. I can't tell if any water is going down that all the time. I've tried to lift it out, but it is so far down that I can't bend it enough at the top that the end of it becomes visible.

I cannot hear any water flowing past the valve, and I have lifted the float up as high as it can go and trapped it in place. The leak appears to still be happening.

Is it worth replacing the valve? I can't see any company markings on the tank, so I am not sure which one of many to buy.

tyler
Jun 2, 2014

Flush valve nut could be loose.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Not sure where best to ask this, maybe this thread works:

I just ordered a pond aeration kit, going to work on restoring my pond a bit. So I want to put the pump in my barn, which is about 100' from my pond. No big deal there, but I'll need to run the air line to the pond and then transition to the weighted tubing as it goes into the water. My question is: does anyone have a recommendation for what sort of tubing I can use for a shallow direct burial? It's only going to be running at, like, 20psi (the relief will trip around 40psi), just enough to push the air down through the submerged hose, so whatever shore-side tubing I use doesn't need to be crazy, I just want something that isn't going to fall to pieces after being in the dirt for a few years. Thoughts?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bad Munki posted:

Not sure where best to ask this, maybe this thread works:

I just ordered a pond aeration kit, going to work on restoring my pond a bit. So I want to put the pump in my barn, which is about 100' from my pond. No big deal there, but I'll need to run the air line to the pond and then transition to the weighted tubing as it goes into the water. My question is: does anyone have a recommendation for what sort of tubing I can use for a shallow direct burial? It's only going to be running at, like, 20psi (the relief will trip around 40psi), just enough to push the air down through the submerged hose, so whatever shore-side tubing I use doesn't need to be crazy, I just want something that isn't going to fall to pieces after being in the dirt for a few years. Thoughts?

Well line would be my first thought on this. It's made to be in the ground for decades, those kind of pressures are totally within spec, and it's cheap.

lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
Bought a new house and the plumbing in the master shower sucks.

The faucet is just one handle that turns on the shower head. It starts at cold with fairly high pressure and as I move it toward hot or warm whatever. The pressure cuts off and it's literally just hot water. There really is no warm water. In the meantime I have been setting the tankless water heater to 115f and taking a shower with the faucet at max hot.

Now the question is i think the issue is with the water temperature stop limiter. Is it broken or should I be replacing it?

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

lol internet. posted:

Bought a new house and the plumbing in the master shower sucks.

The faucet is just one handle that turns on the shower head. It starts at cold with fairly high pressure and as I move it toward hot or warm whatever. The pressure cuts off and it's literally just hot water. There really is no warm water. In the meantime I have been setting the tankless water heater to 115f and taking a shower with the faucet at max hot.

Now the question is i think the issue is with the water temperature stop limiter. Is it broken or should I be replacing it?

What brand of valve is it? You may just need to replace the cartridge or there could be some adjustment in the valve itself.

Jadunk
Feb 27, 2013

lol internet. posted:

Bought a new house and the plumbing in the master shower sucks.

The faucet is just one handle that turns on the shower head. It starts at cold with fairly high pressure and as I move it toward hot or warm whatever. The pressure cuts off and it's literally just hot water. There really is no warm water. In the meantime I have been setting the tankless water heater to 115f and taking a shower with the faucet at max hot.

Now the question is i think the issue is with the water temperature stop limiter. Is it broken or should I be replacing it?

Sounds like there's possibly something wonky going on with the pressure balance unit. I'd swap the cartridge and see what happens. (assuming the plumbing everywhere else works normally)

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Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.

Tyson Tomko posted:

Ok that's a really smart rear end idea that makes 100% sense. My only concern there is I don't think it's a complete clog, otherwise my thousands of loads of laundry/dishes would have been all backed up somewhere (unless there's a break in the pipe somewhere or some jazz) but either way I'll give it a shot, thanks!


Now for a MUCH simpler and less scary question, and what I planned on posting today before this minor flood disaster happened. The same toilet we've been talking about has a leaky shutoff valve and I've been meaning to replace the water line with stainless and put on one of those metal rings to cover the hole in the drywall.

Here's a pic before my question:



So I want to replace the valve. I've worked with copper a ton but not much plastic/PVC. Does the existing valve just unscrew here? I'm worried that it's glued or something else and the last thing I need to have happen now is to bust a water pipe requiring me to shut off the entire house's water to stop. Would it be as easy as grabbing the plastic/pvc end with a wrench and grabbing the valve when a wrench and turning?

Update!

First of all I replaced the valve by cutting that bitch and gluing on this cute little quarter turn. I still need to replace the supply line with a stainless one and DAMNIT I forgot to slide that metal disc/circle dealio on before I glued the new valve on, oh well. I'm sure I can get it on there even if I have to cut the drat thing.



So that entire time I was saying it couldn't be a tree root clogging my drain...it was! The plumber in town was very reasonable and $135 later everything in my house drains better than it has the 7+ years I've lived here.

I'm relieved and happy!

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