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Why does your boiler have a radiation sign on the door?
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Apr 8, 2017 03:22
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Old timey coincidence, I presume. Radiation hadn't really been invented yet.
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Apr 8, 2017 03:34
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That's a little air vent thing that can be opened or closed to regulate air flow.* *pretty sure anyway
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Apr 8, 2017 04:47
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I have no advice but your boiler is baller as gently caress. If it gets replaced sell it to steampunk idiots for a million dollars.
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Apr 8, 2017 09:04
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Warbird posted:Goons, the garbage disposal at Casta De Burd has stopped working. Thing hums like someone that forgot the words to the hymn in church, but that's about it. All steps have been taken with the breaker for the thing flipped off so I don't kill myself. Have you gotten all the smell out? Because we doan need no steenkin Badgers. No, but seriously, replacing them is technically easy, huge pita. You'll need something to loosen the disposal from the basket- if you don't munge that up, you can reuse it. Keep track of where the gaskets go (under the sink). You'll need something* to loosen the metal ring which holds it tight by friction- it's like the Egyptians invented it, but it works. Wiring is very simple, wire nuts most likely under a cap held in by a single screw, don't be intimidated. It's just grievous on-your-back-under-the-sink poo poo that leaves you with a backache, but you get to drink beer at the end. * and by something, I mean like a bigass pipe wrench or similar. I picked up a 4" one at a pawn shop for this single job, and it was well worth the 
Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Apr 8, 2017 |
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Apr 8, 2017 16:16
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HOLY poo poo that boiler! In service! Wow! That door is for access to the firebox for cleaning and to get at the burners and stuff. The draft comes in at the bottom through that duct and should have it's own damper somewhere, I think. And a feet of water gauge! Amazing.
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Apr 8, 2017 16:22
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Mr. Mambold posted:No, but seriously, replacing them is technically easy, huge pita. You'll need something to loosen the disposal from the basket- if you don't munge that up, you can reuse it. I found undoing them to be trivial at best once I realized that I needed to not fear giving it a good strong twist to unseat it from the gasket. Undo 1-2 hose clamps and the drain pipe, off it comes. This was builder standard rapid construction condo brittle parts but an insinkerator disposal. (Never buy waste king.) I'm sure I was supposed to be nicer to the gaskets but it was a rental. Never leaked. Basically, don't be afraid. If it's wired against code (wire disappears into an inacessible box) you should fix that.
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Apr 8, 2017 17:31
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What's wrong with WasteKing? I got the big 1hp one when it was an Amazon deal of the day like 5 years ago and it still chooches impressively. Nearly-perfect Amazon reviews too
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Apr 8, 2017 17:42
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eddiewalker posted:What's wrong with WasteKing? I got the big 1hp one when it was an Amazon deal of the day like 5 years ago and it still chooches impressively. Nearly-perfect Amazon reviews too This may be a problem that is trivially fixable, but the rubber "mouth" on it is awful. It's impossible to get stuff to actually go into it without pressing it through.
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Apr 8, 2017 17:56
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eddiewalker posted:What's wrong with WasteKing? I got the big 1hp one when it was an Amazon deal of the day like 5 years ago and it still chooches impressively. Nearly-perfect Amazon reviews too Same but sold the house since then so only ran it for 3 years personally but it gave me zero problems and worked great during that time.
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Apr 8, 2017 17:58
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H110Hawk posted:This may be a problem that is trivially fixable, but the rubber "mouth" on it is awful. It's impossible to get stuff to actually go into it without pressing it through. That's kind of a feature. My last one constantly chewed up measuring spoons and children's silverware that slipped through.
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Apr 8, 2017 18:43
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Just moved into a newly-remodeled kitchen, and they hosed up in a couple of really obnoxious spots. Two of the drawers (at 90d to each other) aren't offset enough to keep this from happening at the drawer pull.  The other side isn't as bad, but still hosed:  The drawers are hitting the knob when they're about halfway pulled out. Does anyone know of very low-profile replacement pulls I can buy to fix this? Or force the property manager to fix it. Bonus! This is a massive gently caress-up:  Can't open the dishwasher door all the way, so the bottom rack can't be slid out. The oven has room to slide back and maybe fix the problem, but the plug on the back protrudes about an inch and a half and conflicts with the wall.
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Apr 8, 2017 19:02
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Bozart posted:Why does your boiler have a radiation sign on the door? Because it's rad
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Apr 8, 2017 19:16
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I have a large cable spool table, have had it for about a year now. It's a good height and is quite hefty so I'm not looking to try and find a new one. That said, for whatever reason, this particular spool had a center that was some heavy duty cardboard and metal rods in the center that have held up admirably for nearly a year now. I'm starting to think about reinforcing this thing with some actual boards around the center to give it a longer life. Unfortunately most spools tend to have curved boards around the center to keep it circular, I don't think I will have that sort of luxury, so I've settled on just circling the board with upright 1x4s or 2x4s and through some method attaching them to the existing wood either with brackets or some pocket holes or something and maybe bracing around the circumference with a strip or 2 of something? Looking for good suggestions on how to go about this. 
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Apr 8, 2017 21:38
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Naylenas posted:Just moved into a newly-remodeled kitchen, and they hosed up in a couple of really obnoxious spots. lol
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Apr 8, 2017 22:53
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eddiewalker posted:That's kind of a feature. My last one constantly chewed up measuring spoons and children's silverware that slipped through. Utensils go in fine, but the crud you're trying to push through it with the spoon cheerfully sits on top.
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Apr 8, 2017 23:28
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couldcareless posted:I have a large cable spool table, have had it for about a year now. It's a good height and is quite hefty so I'm not looking to try and find a new one. That said, for whatever reason, this particular spool had a center that was some heavy duty cardboard and metal rods in the center that have held up admirably for nearly a year now. I'm starting to think about reinforcing this thing with some actual boards around the center to give it a longer life. Unfortunately most spools tend to have curved boards around the center to keep it circular, I don't think I will have that sort of luxury, so I've settled on just circling the board with upright 1x4s or 2x4s and through some method attaching them to the existing wood either with brackets or some pocket holes or something and maybe bracing around the circumference with a strip or 2 of something? Home Depot has redwood slats that are about 5/8" x 1.5" x 8' for about $2.50 a pop- if you have a finish nailer with galvanized nails (or just a hammer but I hate having to worry about splitting wood) you could fit those slats directly against the circular core and nail them at an angle into the top and bottom rounds and Bob may very well be your uncle. Because the slats are only 1.5" wide it may take longer to install than using 1x4s but it'll look more roundish and the redwood will last longer, especially if you thrown on a coat or two of spar urethane first.
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Apr 9, 2017 01:00
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socketwrencher posted:Home Depot has redwood slats that are about 5/8" x 1.5" x 8' for about $2.50 a pop- if you have a finish nailer with galvanized nails (or just a hammer but I hate having to worry about splitting wood) you could fit those slats directly against the circular core and nail them at an angle into the top and bottom rounds and Bob may very well be your uncle. Because the slats are only 1.5" wide it may take longer to install than using 1x4s but it'll look more roundish and the redwood will last longer, especially if you thrown on a coat or two of spar urethane first. That sounds like a good plan. I'll look for those and give it a shot.
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Apr 9, 2017 01:19
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Quoting this for a new page. What if I used quick setting concrete (in a couple applications if necessary) to build the damaged parts up to level? I'd also probably surround the pipes with a larger pvc sleeve to ensure that they have room to expand and contract. In theory, the floor joist will take the weight, but if it does start to sag I don't want it to have far to go. Chef Boyardeez Nuts posted:So our old house was built in 1905 but then moved in 1933. When running the boiler lines, the old-timey guy in charge said "gently caress it" and now I have this: Edit: As a bonus, check out this dapper gentleman I found in a crawlspace: 
Chef Boyardeez Nuts fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 01:25
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Anyone recommend a good battery backup sump pump or a batter/AC combo? My sump is doing fine but I don't have a failsafe.
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Apr 9, 2017 03:09
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scuz posted:Our washing machine isn't doing such a hot job of washing things, only started a week or so ago: What style of washing machine do you have? I got a top load may tag that does that as well. Googleing around and it's apparently a known issue with the machine I have.
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Apr 9, 2017 03:12
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I tried the Tide washing machine stuff and boy, that did nothing at all besides make my basement smell like a bleach plant.
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And while we're asking questions, my wife wants to ensure we didn't gently caress a few things up before closing the walls. We live in southwest Idaho, which is high desert. Summers are hot, winters are reasonably mild, but we do average at around 30 degrees Fahrenheit in December. We're renovating an old house to turn a small bathroom, a closet, and a weird mud room (that used to be a porch) into two bathrooms and a laundry room. We read a lot of conflicting information about what needs vapor barriers and whatnot, and we've made a few decisions. Now seems like a good time to see if those were horrible decisions before we go any further. So first, this is an exterior east-facing wall that will be a walk-in shower. The exterior is old stucco over a wood frame. We used 3 inches of closed-cell sprayfoam insulation on the theory that the disparity between the hot shower and the cold exterior wall could create moisture and rot regular faced insulation over-time. The two black pipes are vent pipes and the silver hose is the exhaust from the bathroom fan.  Second, this is a north-facing exterior wall where we'll have a lavatory sink. We put Armaflex pipe insulation around the pex where it will be in the exterior wall. Also, I transposed the hot and cold lines because I'm an idiot.  Third, this is the rigid dryer exhaust on the same north-facing exterior wall. Its wrapped in Reflectix foil insulation.  With all three of these, my wife is worried about the potential of the walls or pipes sweating inside the walls and then molding/rotting them from the inside. If you see something that may or ABSOLUTELY needs fixing, I'd appreciate the critical eye.
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Apr 9, 2017 03:42
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I have a brand new Whirlpool clothes washer (model: WFW90HEFW0) that turns on (the lights come on) and then two seconds later it turns off. I've unplugged it and plugged it back in and it still does it. Any ideas?
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Apr 9, 2017 04:54
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That seems like a "call customer service" thing. Like its either a simple fix or a simple return.
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Apr 9, 2017 05:12
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Turns out I just had to unplug it for 15 minutes and now it works. Strange thing is that the tip I found that told me to do this also instructed me to hold the power button for ~30 seconds to drain the stored power. Sure enough, when you unplug it you can still turn it on a couple times. Spooky.
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Apr 9, 2017 05:24
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This is the mounting spot for our storm door closer. There's one on top of the door as well, but I'd like to double up. The wood is split where the two door-side screws go in. Is this a multitool-cut and replace thing, or should I just toothpick and glue it? The wood feels mostly fine, but near the split it's a little soft.
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Apr 9, 2017 15:22
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Turns out I just had to unplug it for 15 minutes and now it works. Capacitors, how do they work?  (That's what is holding the charge and the computer in a wedged state.) I would still call them and get a case number. Go through the troubleshooting with them on the phone and then have it "start working" - this way if it becomes a bigger issue down the line you can reference your attempt to have it repaired when new.
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 15:53
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Turns out I just had to unplug it for 15 minutes and now it works. I don't envy the support reps that have to try and explain how power cycling works to ma and pa homeowner. What a time to be alive! Garbage disposal got installed with a minor hitch, which was me trying to turn it on without putting the breaking back in place and wondering why it didn't work. Also caulked the separated baseboards, put in actual drywall anchors for our sliding door curtains (previous owners' handyman was an idiot and just screwed in the screws raw), and stabled the ethernet cord going do the stairs. This is way too productive for me and I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop. We've got a new sectional coming in and I've gotten some Guardsman Fabricote at the recommendation of a relative that used to work in the furniture industry. Our first level (where the sectional will stay) is pretty much a loft style open floor plan. If I open all the windows and doors and turn on the fans do you think I can get around having to haul the pieces outside to the driveway to coat them down? I don't really mind having to do so, but the wife is a hair over 100 lbs and won't be much help in moving the pieces.
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Apr 10, 2017 16:01
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edit: ignore this, wrong thread
Mr Executive fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 16:42
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I have a tree in my front yard that drops an obscene amount of branches anytime it storms. The drat thing is half dead so I'm going to get it cut down. The problem is that the last time I was picking up branches, what looked like carpenter ants started spilling out of a branch that I cut in half. Should I have the ants killed off before I have the tree cut down so they don't try to attack the house, or will having the tree removed fix the problem?
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Apr 10, 2017 16:54
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BobbyDrake posted:I have a tree in my front yard that drops an obscene amount of branches anytime it storms. The drat thing is half dead so I'm going to get it cut down. The problem is that the last time I was picking up branches, what looked like carpenter ants started spilling out of a branch that I cut in half. Should I have the ants killed off before I have the tree cut down so they don't try to attack the house, or will having the tree removed fix the problem? I'd have the perimeter of the house and the area around the tree treated at least a week before removing it. You won't get them all until that tree comes down, but you'll get some and the rest should die on their way to your house/away from the tree.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:07
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uwaeve posted:This is the mounting spot for our storm door closer. There's one on top of the door as well, but I'd like to double up. The wood is split where the two door-side screws go in. Is this a multitool-cut and replace thing, or should I just toothpick and glue it? The wood feels mostly fine, but near the split it's a little soft. Minwax sells a wood hardener (heh) that you just brush on and let soak in. That + toothpicks might be enough to solidify and prevent any further damage to the area.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:14
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Motronic posted:I'd have the perimeter of the house and the area around the tree treated at least a week before removing it. You won't get them all until that tree comes down, but you'll get some and the rest should die on their way to your house/away from the tree. Thanks. We have a dog, so what I think I'm going to do is spread some diatomaceous earth around the tree and the perimeter of the house to be safe.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:52
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BobbyDrake posted:Thanks. We have a dog, so what I think I'm going to do is spread some diatomaceous earth around the tree and the perimeter of the house to be safe. DE is a good plan, but not as good as the standard for carpenter ants: permethrin. Which is also what is in flea and tick collars for dogs.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:38
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Zahgaegun posted:I'm repairing a cement block wall - interior, basement. Update: Nothing much helped, almost all the nails took out a superficial chunk of cinder block as they came out. Time for cleaning and patching.
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Apr 10, 2017 21:47
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Thumposaurus posted:Minwax sells a wood hardener (heh) that you just brush on and let soak in. That + toothpicks might be enough to solidify and prevent any further damage to the area. I'll give it a shot, thanks. Lord knows I need my wood hardened.
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Apr 11, 2017 14:00
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Warbird posted:I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop. Forgot to take out the dishwasher plug thingy. Goddamn it.
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Apr 11, 2017 14:05
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Can I improve my attic ventilation? I have soffit vents along the length of the house, and a single gable vent at one end. I live in SoCal, ice damming is not a concern. I don't know if there's really anything wrong with this, all I can say is that it's very hot in the attic.
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 17:13
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FogHelmut posted:Can I improve my attic ventilation? I have soffit vents along the length of the house, and a single gable vent at one end. I live in SoCal, ice damming is not a concern. are you having a particular problem that you think (know) is caused by inadequate ventilation you're trying to fix? edit: attics get hot. As long as you have enough insulation between it and the living space, and there's no moisture problems, you're fine.
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Apr 11, 2017 17:17
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Is there anything to be done about about a cold (finished) basement other than getting a space heater? I assume my thermostat is not turning on the furnace because it's a nice 70 degrees upstairs, even though the basement is a good 10 degrees cooler. Would leaving the furnace fan "on" instead of "auto" help circulate the air and even out the temperature?
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Apr 11, 2017 17:20
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