Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I think that shade of wood looks best with white but you could match it with pale grey, yellow, or green.
Or stain the cabinets a darker wood color, or paint them black.

Putting something on that big empty wall above the floor cabinet will help distract from kitchen dinge. How about a big magnetic bulliten board?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I want kitchen suggestions too. I had the builders add these massive niches (milk carton for scale) and it's finally time to add hardware. The back is drywall but the thin vertical sides are reinforced with proper wood. The white surface is wipeable wallpaper...

Many small wood shelves? Magazine pockets? Metal grid for things on hooks?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

peanut posted:

I want kitchen suggestions too. I had the builders add these massive niches (milk carton for scale) and it's finally time to add hardware. The back is drywall but the thin vertical sides are reinforced with proper wood. The white surface is wipeable wallpaper...

Many small wood shelves? Magazine pockets? Metal grid for things on hooks?



They're in the kitchen? Depending on how much sunlight they get, you might consider some shelves for fresh herbs.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

peanut posted:

I want kitchen suggestions too. I had the builders add these massive niches (milk carton for scale) and it's finally time to add hardware. The back is drywall but the thin vertical sides are reinforced with proper wood. The white surface is wipeable wallpaper...

Many small wood shelves? Magazine pockets? Metal grid for things on hooks?



Have you considered hydroponics? :2bong:

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


lol are they really a shape and size that's good for ~herbs~

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

peanut posted:

lol are they really a shape and size that's good for ~herbs~

Yeah, you can get vertical hydro kits if you dont want to throw something together yourself.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I was thinking more like thermoses and a snack basket. If weed wasn't so ridic illegal here I'd just grow it in our fields.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
The hell is wrong with my house?

I bought my first house this month. Upon doing some aesthetic crap I started noticing something



The shelving is perfectly level. The left side of that closet is the outside wall of the house. It was built in '83. Is this normal? I don't see any cracking and there aren't any attempts to hide anything like fits of crown molding.

um excuse me fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Apr 12, 2017

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Drop some marbles on the floor. Then drop some on the ceiling?

xwing
Jul 2, 2007
red leader standing by

um excuse me posted:

The left side of that closet is the outside wall of the house.

Slab on grade? They're going to tend to slope a slab to the exterior so that if water ever gets in it would drain to the exterior and not pool inside. It doesn't seem that unusual to me. I once had a door that was so out of wack because of the floor it was amazing it worked.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

um excuse me posted:

The hell is wrong with my house?

I bought my first house this month. Upon doing some aesthetic crap I started noticing something



The shelving is perfectly level. The left side of that closet is the outside wall of the house. It was built in '83. Is this normal? I don't see any cracking and there aren't any attempts to hide anything like fits of crown molding.

This picture is amazing. Can you get down the side of the unit? What hides in the darkness? Is there a hidden room behind your stuck bookcase/door?

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

I've got a section of my very small lawn that previous owners used as a flower bed....except the flower bed contained a fire hydrant, water company line access cover, and a tree stump. This area is 4'x6' in size, so not huge. We want to remove all the old much and siding and just make it grass so it goes with the grass all around it. I've got a guy coming to do the stump removal, but I'm wondering what to do to get the grass growing. I'm in Memphis, TN, so zone 8 and I believe we are in a good time to put some down

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Omne posted:

I've got a section of my very small lawn that previous owners used as a flower bed....except the flower bed contained a fire hydrant, water company line access cover, and a tree stump. This area is 4'x6' in size, so not huge. We want to remove all the old much and siding and just make it grass so it goes with the grass all around it. I've got a guy coming to do the stump removal, but I'm wondering what to do to get the grass growing. I'm in Memphis, TN, so zone 8 and I believe we are in a good time to put some down

Fall is really the best time, but spring works too. It's such a small area there's just not going to be much to it. Find a local place preferably and bring in some of your grass. Like just grab a few pieces. Ask them to ID it and for enough seed to cover your area. Put it down as directed by the package and water the hell out of it every day for at least 4 days. A whole week is even better. It should germinate in a few days, and then just keep off of it and water it a couple times weekly if you aren't getting sufficient rain. You should be good to go in 4-6 weeks for your first mowing depending on temperature and variety.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


whalesteak posted:

I have no idea if they're comfortable or durable, but the giant beanbag company "Lovesac" makes sectionals that come in mix n match pieces.

Magnus Praeda posted:

Seconding the sectional idea. My current couch is two sectional end pieces (a chaise lounge bit and a regular seat bit) and they're not much harder to move than an overstuffed arm chair. Have you hit up actual furniture stores yet?

A high-quality (i.e. not from Walmart or something) futon may also work for you (seriously, there are some really nice ones out there if you go somewhere that doesn't cater to college kids).

Sectionals might be my best bet here. The plus side is that it'll last past quite a few moves, cause there's no way I'd give them up!

Thanks for the Lovesac recommendation, but wow that poo poo is expensive. What furniture companies should I be looking at if I want something a little cheaper/less fancy? IKEA is the obvious option, but I see still like Jordan's and whatever here which might be another option, but require me to go out of my way... at least IKEA is an easy option.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

So I have a problem and I'm not sure how to fix it

I have some drawers in my newly bought house where the previous owner hosed up and didn't tighten a bracket into place. This means that the drawers collide with the one below them when they are opened and closed.

What's the trick to fixing this. The screw is covered by the counter on top, and there doesnt seem to be any vertical movement in the screw. I can shift it from side to side.

Anywhere else on the forums geared towards sorting this sort of stuff out?


Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Omne posted:

I've got a section of my very small lawn that previous owners used as a flower bed....except the flower bed contained a fire hydrant, water company line access cover, and a tree stump. This area is 4'x6' in size, so not huge. We want to remove all the old much and siding and just make it grass so it goes with the grass all around it. I've got a guy coming to do the stump removal, but I'm wondering what to do to get the grass growing. I'm in Memphis, TN, so zone 8 and I believe we are in a good time to put some down

Just to add a bit to Moronic's advice - The bag of seed will tell you to rake the dirt before seeding - They're not loving around when they say this. Spend the time to really loosen up the top inch of soil. I never had any luck getting grass to grow until I started using a tiller before seeding - It's overkill, but it's easy and effective. Failing a tiller, really work over the soil with a rake/gardening fork, or buy a few bags of topsoil and put down a thin layer over the whole area before seeding.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007



Oh my! I would probably give up on that original screw and put some L brackets on each side to fasten that vertical bit to the underside of the counter.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

peanut posted:

Oh my! I would probably give up on that original screw and put some L brackets on each side to fasten that vertical bit to the underside of the counter.

Tried that lol. Can't get the screw to move. Do I need to saw it out?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Yeah probably lol rip :/

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]
Did they not screw it in enough or did the center of the cabinet sag and pull it out? If it's particle board it wouldn't hold a screw well.

Also it looks like the tops of the drawers are contacting each other? That would happen if the center of the cabinet was sagging.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

dyne posted:

Did they not screw it in enough or did the center of the cabinet sag and pull it out? If it's particle board it wouldn't hold a screw well.

Also it looks like the tops of the drawers are contacting each other? That would happen if the center of the cabinet was sagging.

Didn't screw it in enough. They're touching each other because of the sag in the middle and angling the drawers inwards just a little bit as well

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

w00tmonger posted:

So I have a problem and I'm not sure how to fix it

I have some drawers in my newly bought house where the previous owner hosed up and didn't tighten a bracket into place. This means that the drawers collide with the one below them when they are opened and closed.

What's the trick to fixing this. The screw is covered by the counter on top, and there doesnt seem to be any vertical movement in the screw. I can shift it from side to side.

Anywhere else on the forums geared towards sorting this sort of stuff out?




Take the drawers out, cut the screw, then drive a big long screw up through the vertical bit of wood into the top (and counter) at an angle. In fact so this twice, once from each side. Measure carefully to ensure your screw won't come through the counter top.

There's a general diy questions thread here in diy, called fix it fast.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


What do people do to take care of hardwood floors? My apartment has hardwood floors and I'm used to easy-to-clean carpeted floors which just need some vacuuming, but my attempts at dust mopping these hardwood floors have been abysmal, and dust constantly builds up and gets everywhere (e.g. the bedsheets). Swiffer pads don't work too well in my experience, since it just seems to push the dust and hair around and doesn't "lock in" like it claims to. Microfiber cloths have similar results.

What's the typical process to taking care of a hardwood floor? Or is it easier to just put some area rugs down and clean around those?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


We have vintage hardwood floors at work (school). They get swept and mopped daily (washable towel rags in a clip mop) and waxed once a semester.
Getting the kids to do it is faster but they always miss spots.
(Not my pic.)

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
Keep vacuuming your floors. Your vacuum should have a "floor" setting to turn off the roller bar and avoid scratches, or you can use a floor attachment for a canister vacuum. Then all that dust goes into a bag you can periodically throw away.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I always wondered about those pads they push around. It doesn't seem like such a bad approach, since it gives you more control than an extended pushmop does.

It might be that I just need to sweep more, since you mentioned it was daily. Twice a week, I guess? :sigh: It's spring cleaning time anyway, so I might as well do a deep clean.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


At home I vacuum about twice a week, or whenever the pube tumbleweeds bother me. Decorative rugs (and quilts!) are cool and fun.

VVVV No shoes indoors!!! The best advice you'll ever get. My friends and family in the US have such gritty floors.

peanut fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Apr 23, 2017

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Pollyanna posted:

I always wondered about those pads they push around. It doesn't seem like such a bad approach, since it gives you more control than an extended pushmop does.

It might be that I just need to sweep more, since you mentioned it was daily. Twice a week, I guess? :sigh: It's spring cleaning time anyway, so I might as well do a deep clean.

Your hardwood doesn't absorb any crud, so everything normally hidden by your carpet is always right on top. You can both see it and feel it on your feet. Assuming you don't have a pet (small children are included in this,) you should be able to get away with every other week. Stop wearing your shoes inside, get a doormat that actually brushes them off, and make sure your vacuum is actually trapping dust. Get a HEPA filter/bag for it, get a mini-pleated filter for your AC (nordicpure), and overall be a little more conscious of "crud." After a few weeks of this, and washing your bed linens, the baseline level of dust and dirt in your house should be reduced dramatically. If you leave your windows open you are likely pulling in dust from outside which will increase your cleaning frequency.

Pigsfeet on Rye
Oct 22, 2008

I'm meat on the hoof

peanut posted:

At home I vacuum about twice a week, or whenever the pube tumbleweeds bother me. Decorative rugs (and quilts!) are cool and fun.

VVVV No shoes indoors!!! The best advice you'll ever get. My friends and family in the US have such gritty floors.

Definitely coming around to this. I keep house slippers to wear indoors and leave my shoes on a carpet at the door, saves a lot on crud getting in.

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Pollyanna posted:

What do people do to take care of hardwood floors? My apartment has hardwood floors and I'm used to easy-to-clean carpeted floors which just need some vacuuming, but my attempts at dust mopping these hardwood floors have been abysmal, and dust constantly builds up and gets everywhere (e.g. the bedsheets). Swiffer pads don't work too well in my experience, since it just seems to push the dust and hair around and doesn't "lock in" like it claims to. Microfiber cloths have similar results.

What's the typical process to taking care of a hardwood floor? Or is it easier to just put some area rugs down and clean around those?

Get one of these:

null_pointer
Nov 9, 2004

Center in, pull back. Stop. Track 45 right. Stop. Center and stop.

Lawn care chat:

I overseeded several patches on my lawn and like a dummy, didn't mow the lawn before. Now, the lawn is looking mighty shaggy, my wife is telling me it's time to mow, and I'm guessing that I'm pretty much boned and the walk-behind lawnmower is just gonna suck up the seeds and cut them up. I'm not seeing any new growth in the areas I seeded, but it's only been a few days.

If I mow, today, should I just consider whatever I put down to be lost and just try again, later?

VERTiG0
Jul 11, 2001

go move over bro

Pigsfeet on Rye posted:

Definitely coming around to this. I keep house slippers to wear indoors and leave my shoes on a carpet at the door, saves a lot on crud getting in.

It is super weird to me as a Canadian that so many Americans just wear their shoes in the house. I have never understood that.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Idk grass seeds seem pretty durable.
Our lawn isn't doing very well. Some patches are already dying, but keeping the kids off the grass until it's perfectly grown out is impossible...

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

null_pointer posted:

Lawn care chat:

I overseeded several patches on my lawn and like a dummy, didn't mow the lawn before. Now, the lawn is looking mighty shaggy, my wife is telling me it's time to mow, and I'm guessing that I'm pretty much boned and the walk-behind lawnmower is just gonna suck up the seeds and cut them up. I'm not seeing any new growth in the areas I seeded, but it's only been a few days.

If I mow, today, should I just consider whatever I put down to be lost and just try again, later?

it can take up to 2 weeks for you to see some sprouts. Mowing is def. not ideal, but life happens -- sent the mower a little higher than usual and hope for the best.I don't think you will pull that much up. If you can wet down the patches you overseeded (or ideally not mow the patches at all depending on how big/patchy they are) that would help.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Can you section off that bit of the lawn to let it grow?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

VERTiG0 posted:

It is super weird to me as a Canadian that so many Americans just wear their shoes in the house. I have never understood that.

In the northern part of the country where it snows and you get a lot of mud, it's common to have a mudroom or at least some dedicated shoe place by the door, which is a convenient place to take off your shoes. In the south, you don't get as much mud, so you either take off your shoes in the garage (imperfect solution at best) or wear them in the house. Even in the south, I'd say that half of families are no-shoes-in-the-house families.

Basically, it's none of your business what other people do in their own homes.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
I need some advice on a couple of home projects - putting in flooring, and framing in a room.

My wife and I bought a house, we close next week. It's a ranch style house with a finished basement.

Among the projects that I'll be tackling before we move in are:

1. Ripping out all the carpeting that is throughout the house. They previous owners had cats, and my wife is allergic.

2. Installing laminate flooring just about everywhere (the exception is the living room and the master bedroom. Those will have new carpets installed by Home Depot for free.)

3. Framing in one wall of a room in the basement to be an additional bedroom.

My questions:

I remember reading someone somewhere say something about if they were to do laminate over again, they would have gone with a thicker underlayment. The laminate we chose is this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...-HL91/202026300 It's an 8mm laminate with attached underlayment. Thoughts on this?

Additionally, is there anything else I will need to do to install this in a basement? I had planned on putting down a vapor barrier first, and then installing.

Re: the framing out of the room. My father had recommended I use metal studs instead of wood. I looked into it (having never used metal before) and they look super easy to install. There also shouldn't be any moisture/rot issues with metal. These studs won't be forming any outside walls, so heat transfer shouldn't be an issue (learned that from Holmes on Homes!). Is there anything I should be aware of about using metal studs?

Lastly, I had planned on using mold-resistant drywall for that room.

Am I missing anything?

Battered Cankles
May 7, 2008

We're engaged!
Metal studs don't have the holding power of wood for simple idiots who need to hand something on a wall and can't use a drywall anchor.

Have you considered having the ducts vacuumed? In most cases, a person who is allergic to cats is allergic to their saliva, which is on all of their fur and dander because of their hygiene.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

3. Framing in one wall of a room in the basement to be an additional bedroom.
Do you need two means of egress from a bedroom in your location? Is it possible with your basement setup?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Re: the framing out of the room. My father had recommended I use metal studs instead of wood. I looked into it (having never used metal before) and they look super easy to install. There also shouldn't be any moisture/rot issues with metal. These studs won't be forming any outside walls, so heat transfer shouldn't be an issue (learned that from Holmes on Homes!). Is there anything I should be aware of about using metal studs?

I work in commercial buildings and I think the advantages of metal makes a lot of sense there and I'm used to working with it, but I don't think it makes as much sense in residential if you already have wood construction. I think the typical homeowner is probably more accustomed and equipped to work with wood so metal will have some learning curve. I find using NM in metal kinda tedious compared to wood and it's a little harder to fasten typical residential stuff like trim and moulding. If you plan to hang heavy things from the walls then you want to plan to install backing when you build the walls.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply