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builds character posted:Dirt bikes, where you have more slack in the chain, have chain guards which make sure the chain goes on the sprocket (and protects it) and serve a similar purpose, no? Yes, chain guides are essential in the dirt, since gains stretch so fast there
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Apr 6, 2017 02:52
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Your chain can't touch these gains!
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Apr 6, 2017 19:09
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Bits of rubber sticking out from between the link plates of my chain is probably a bad sign huh What risks am I running if I keep on using a chain with busted seals? Does it increase the chance it'll lock up, or just increase wear and reduce its lifespan?
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Apr 8, 2017 10:35
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why not both? if you clean/lube it regularly it won't lock up, it will just wear more quickly
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Apr 8, 2017 17:15
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For oring chains, once the rubber goes, the chain is toast. They only work when their internal lubrication is intact - once that goes they can't be lubed enough to keep them from wearing very quickly. Replace it as soon as you can.
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Apr 8, 2017 18:43
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gently caress. I blame sticky lube for this; when my can of non-stick dirt lube ran out I accidentally replaced it with that sticky white race crap, exactly the wrong thing to be running on British roads in winter. Such a ballache to clean off even in good weather, attracts all the grit and mud. Sprockets are rounding out a bit too, guess I'll budget for a new set with the chain while I'm at it. Gonna look into a Scottoiler too, since I clearly can't be trusted to do regular drive maintenance when the weather's a bit poo poo. Ironically I had summoned the effort to tighten the chain today (since it finally went over its upper slack limit) only to find out I don't have a big enough spanner/socket to tackle the axle nut. Sigh. So much crap to buy 
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Apr 8, 2017 20:55
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I know this came up like 2-3 weeks ago but I'm too lazy to search. Which cell phone mount was the one people liked the most? I recall some people saying the phone would fall out of the xgrips one occasionally?
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Apr 8, 2017 21:21
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I'm partial to the model specific holders + whatever kind of RAM ball mount you want. http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP18U
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Apr 8, 2017 21:32
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Buhbuhj posted:I know this came up like 2-3 weeks ago but I'm too lazy to search. Which cell phone mount was the one people liked the most? I recall some people saying the phone would fall out of the xgrips one occasionally? Slip grips + RAM base. Or listen to goons retarded ideas about phone mounts.
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Apr 9, 2017 00:02
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I made my own phone mount out of an otter box, some GoPro mounts, and a piece of metal I powder coated especially for this forum, ask me about my lovely phone mount
Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 00:21
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Renaissance Robot posted:gently caress. I blame sticky lube for this; when my can of non-stick dirt lube ran out I accidentally replaced it with that sticky white race crap, exactly the wrong thing to be running on British roads in winter. I'm confused. Every lube is sticky. E: I've always felt that the white ones seem to "attract" debris because white shows dirt and grime more than others in general. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 03:48
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The can of green Motul off-road lube I was running before was sticky in that it stayed on the chain, sure, but it dried out to a non-sticky state after a while,and never picked up grit. Both cans of white stuff I've had were super tacky and stayed that way even after drying. My rear wheel rim is a mess, it's like I slathered it in glue or something e/ I accept some amount of mess and effort is involved in basic maintenance but my recent experience is comparing very negatively with the lube I was using before. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 09:01
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Maxima chain wax is the best I've found in regards of longevity, very little dirt absorption and actually staying on the chain.
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Apr 9, 2017 09:51
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Supradog posted:Maxima chain wax is the best I've found in regards of longevity, very little dirt absorption and actually staying on the chain. Ever try the Biltema FB-ring chain? It was cheaper than just about anything reputable and I got 40 000 km out of it with loads more life left when the bike got stolen. A dry PTFE-base lube also helped longevity I think, never needed any strong degreasers to get the worst crap off.
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Apr 9, 2017 16:41
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No, but my brother has. Problem is that they're not standard 525 size, so you can't use a master link from biltema on another 525 chain, it's simply too big. Sure, if you use both chain and master link from them it'll work. I've used plenty of oil, lube, misc fasterners, and random gear. 2 different engine mc lifters, front and rear lifters, a ton of tools, air compressors etc. They work, but have no frills. I had snell (xlmoto store brand) chains that got hosed up after 16k, but I suspect I was oveareager with citrus based cleaners on it. Next chain/bike I'll try the dry ptfe lube route, I got the lube, but I want to try that from fresh chain. Supradog fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 19:22
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Found a hipster bike shop near me that will install a chain and rear tire for $127. That seems... really cheap. Cheap enough to patronize a hipster bike shop. Edit: Whoops, forgot the question. Somebody recommend me a tire and chain for my '06 F4i. Pilot Road 3 and... ? Edit 2: Took the time to search and settled on an RK chain. Ordered a 520 by mistake at first. 
Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 16:54
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Save most of the $127 and get sprockets along with the chain and do it yourself. Tire mount and balance shouldn't be much more than $50.
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Apr 10, 2017 20:38
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I am thinking of getting this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/41765/i/bolt-motorcycle-hardware-euro-style-hardware-kit I lost a fairing bolt, and think this may be a decent investment. May look around for one with smaller diameters too. Anyone have recommendations for bolt sets?
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Apr 10, 2017 21:43
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Save most of the $127 and get sprockets along with the chain and do it yourself. Tire mount and balance shouldn't be much more than $50.
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Apr 10, 2017 22:15
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So this is a weird one: My friend has a 2015 or 2016 FZ-09, unmodded except for fender eliminator. We've ridden a bit here and there, and he's always complained of hand/grip pain from his throttle hand. I thought he was exaggerating, but we were messing around in town last night and switched bikes (Grom and FZ-09 are a bit mismatched), and in the 10ish minutes I was on the bike, my hand was killing me. I've never experienced this on any of my other bikes. Any likely culprits or fixes for this? He's putting new bars/grips on the bike soon, but my money is on the throttle cable tension being too high or something like that. I'd like him to get this figured out cause I'm likely buying a 2017 FZ-09 this year. robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 12:51
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Are you guys short? The stock bars were slightly too high for me and it was causing some discomfort in my hands as well, I put some rizoma bars on and it's been better.
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Apr 11, 2017 13:21
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Buhbuhj posted:Are you guys short? The stock bars were slightly too high for me and it was causing some discomfort in my hands as well, I put some rizoma bars on and it's been better. I'm 5'8" he's 5'9"+. We're not tall, but I'm comfortable on the bike, especially compared to my DRZ. It's specifically the throttle hand though which is the main concern, although I understand your left hand gets a lot more 'rest' on a bike overall.
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Apr 11, 2017 14:40
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robotsinmyhead posted:So this is a weird one:  Grip with your legs and make a conscious effort to tighten your core and back to stay off your wrists. Edit: Might not be quite what you're experiencing, but this is just about dead-on for me. Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 14:52
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That sounds pretty reasonable. Hopefully his new bars will alleviate the problem.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:04
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I'm looking at buying a Ducati Monster that has a rebuilt salvage title. What should I look out for, and how much does a rebuilt salvage title affect the price? I read that it could be anywhere between 20% and 60%. South fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 15:31
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Let's see that ducati. Yes, it affects the price. No, you probably shouldn't buy it unless you want a track toy.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:53
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If you don't have experience with these things, I'd recommend avoiding buying salvage title bikes. Everyone's bikes get "salvaged from a low speed drop!", but you can't really visually detect bent forks/frame/swingarm, and without having the frame computracked or otherwise verified, you can't actually know if it's still straight. I once almost had a friend buy an R6 that rode okay before we noticed both forks were bent back equally about 2 inches. Only way to tell visually was the belly pan was a little too close to the front tire.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:57
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https://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/6067436181.html I've always loved the look of the Monsters. I even went to the factory in Bologna.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:59
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pokie posted:I am thinking of getting this Seems fine, but IMO just go to Fastenal and get a handful of the most common sizes (M5, M6 and M8 on Japanese bikes) and the associated nuts and washers. A $10 bag will last forever with occasional use. You can also be cheap like me and buy only the longer bolts, then cut them down with a hacksaw and trim with a file and die any time you need a shorter one, which is great if your time is worthless.
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Apr 11, 2017 19:52
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Protip: thread a nut on the bolt first, then cut it and back the nut off, cleaning up the threads and retapping the end in one shot. If you're gonna to half rear end it you may as well save time.
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Apr 11, 2017 20:00
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you sound like the kind of guy who wouldn't even chuck the cut bolt into a lathe to re-chamfer the tip
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Apr 11, 2017 20:25
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Protip: thread a nut on the bolt first, then cut it and back the nut off, cleaning up the threads and retapping the end in one shot.  Motherfucker, that's exactly the kind of redneck engineering I was raised on.
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Apr 11, 2017 20:35
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Or just own a tap and die set and a couple fine files like someone who wasn't raised by wolves.
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Apr 11, 2017 20:54
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dies? what are we, farmers? make your own bolts on a CNC lathe as required
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Apr 11, 2017 20:59
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brb, gotta tend to the foundry out back behind the garage
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Apr 11, 2017 21:02
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Cutting long bolts to make them smaller? LUXURY We WISHED we could cut long bolts when we needed smaller bolts. When I was a lad...
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Apr 11, 2017 21:23
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Yeah, don't cut long bolts, just use a billion washers
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Apr 11, 2017 21:26
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Sagebrush posted:Seems fine, but IMO just go to Fastenal and get a handful of the most common sizes (M5, M6 and M8 on Japanese bikes) and the associated nuts and washers. A $10 bag will last forever with occasional use. Good idea! I will check that place out.
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Apr 11, 2017 21:36
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captainOrbital posted:Cutting long bolts to make them smaller? Bolts? You were lucky to have bolts! We had to make our own fasteners out of loctite and spare twigs.
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Apr 11, 2017 21:42
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We called my grandpappy "Screwtooth" because he'd used his dentures as a die for the cedar bolts on his Appalachian-style cafe racer (Ducati bevel drive 350 if you must know) He was a hit down at Jo's, but I think Smelly Pete and his RnineT with the maple syrup still gas tank continues to hold the most props. They got a photo of it on the wall, next to the 12-pointer with handlebars for antlers.
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Apr 11, 2017 22:45
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