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SwitchbladeKult posted:I'm scared shitless of dropping my angle grinder and instinctively reaching down to catch it. A friend of the family almost lost a leg doing that exact thing with a loaded firearm. How do you train yourself to not do that? You have to be conscious of it all the time. Anything that falls, unless it's something small and harmless that slipped out of your hand or whatever, move out of the way. If I knock so much as a socket off the workbench I reflexively move my foot out the way and let it hit the floor. If you never try to catch anything, you won't ever catch something dangerous.
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Apr 8, 2017 04:42
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So I was trying to mill some aluminium today using a 2 flute 10mm endmill doing a peripheral cut, and it just wouldn't work. The chips were sticking to the side of the piece. I was doing a 2mm cut width (20% of cutter diameter), 2.5mm cut depth (25% cutter diam), 540rpm, 150mm/min feed rate. The surface finish was awful with chips stuck to the side of the cut face. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Maybe my aluminium is anodized? Imperial: 0.0054 chip load, 5.8 feed, roughly 3/8 endmill I tried a slot cut too at a shallow depth (0.25 - 0.5mm) and this seemed to work a lot better. I also noticed my mill has quite a bit of 'nod' without having any sort of possibility for adjusting this except shimming. 0.20mm difference in height across ~180mm or so, the sweep of the dial indicator. Bad? (edit, changed to 0.1mm with z-locks engaged).. (edit2: I researched this and you have to tram column to spindle (how do you correct errors??) and then column to table, what a can of worms!) Mudfly fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 11:45
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[still a beginner machinist so take this with a gigantic spoon of salt, anybody else feel free to correct me b/c i am incredibly not an authority on much here] You're running that endmill at a very low RPM for a finishing cut. Feeds and speeds calculations are important for establishing the baseline ideal operating condition for a given tool and material, but those become a reference point at best once you're trying to get a particular result that doesn't involve pushing the tool to its limits. Are you clearing chips? Are you using coated endmills and/or getting some cutting fluid in there? Aluminum's sticky as hell and likes to weld to the cutter and gently caress your poo poo up if you don't take pains, and recutting cut chips is horrible for surface finish (and, in tougher materials, for your tooling too). I learn well through experimentation, so I like to do controlled tests when it comes to stuff like this. Do the same cut a bunch of times in some scrap stock, changing one variable each time. Double the RPM for the same feed, spray some WD-40 on the cutter before you get going, etc. You'll be surprised how much of a difference a single thing like that can make. aaaaand yeah tram your mill before you get going on anything meaningful or itll give you nothing but grief. You'll probably have to retram it a bunch in the future so it's good to learn how now. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 9, 2017 |
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Apr 9, 2017 19:11
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Try going a little deeper and a little faster feed. Aluminum finishes usually leave that chippy finish if you aren't engaging enough of the tool. That's why you'll get a pretty finish when you do a slot or drill a hole where the tool is completely engaged, but not when you just mill a bit off the side. You're also supposed to have the tool pressure going against the hard jaw but I don't know all the maths for that, so I'll just say you can also try feeding the opposite direction to see how that affects your finish. And if all else fails, there's always files for that sort of thing. Aluminum can be kind of goofy sometimes because it's so soft.
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Apr 9, 2017 21:25
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More rpm and wd-40 is my gut reaction. YMMV though, I don't have any experience with hobbyist mills. I would guess chatter where the endmill flexes, snaps back, and flexes again. More rpm would reduce the chip per flute and help with that. Wd-40 for the chips sticking. Are you climb milling or conventional milling?
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Apr 10, 2017 00:24
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I'm just an armchair machinist, but my back of the envelope calculations put your spindle speed at closer to 2,000 rpm for a 2-flute endmill of that size in aluminum.
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Apr 10, 2017 01:08
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Chips sticking to the finished surface happens when the end mill is pulling them back through the cut. Keeping the cutter cool will help keep chips from sticking and getting pulled back through. Cutting oil will help a lot. Real cutting oil will work better than wd-40. Climb cutting will leave a better finish if your mill is tight enough. It tends to leave the chip behind the cut instead of pushing it in front.
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Apr 10, 2017 01:20
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EKDS5k posted:If you never try to catch anything, you won't ever catch something dangerous.
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Apr 10, 2017 03:00
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A very cool video series on restoring an old Myford lathe, starts a bit slow but he starts to talk around part 3 then he goes kinda this old tony as things progress. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtKutRzSf0U His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 11:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:A very cool video series on restoring an old Myford lathe, starts a bit slow but he starts to talk around part 3 then he goes kinda this old tony as things progress. Any recommendations on other neat things to watch? I've been on the lookout for good videos on various blacksmithing styles and techniques.
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Apr 11, 2017 18:35
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His Divine Shadow posted:A very cool video series on restoring an old Myford lathe, starts a bit slow but he starts to talk around part 3 then he goes kinda this old tony as things progress. This is very good. How ever I've watched so many of AvE's videos that it just doesn't seem right if a video doesn't end with "Keep your dick in a vice" SwitchbladeKult posted:Any recommendations on other neat things to watch? I've been on the lookout for good videos on various blacksmithing styles and techniques. Keith Fenner, This Old Tony, and Clickspring are all very good.
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Apr 11, 2017 20:34
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I tried welding for the first time ever tonight. Below are my first four attempts, top to bottom. Any input from the experts?  
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Apr 12, 2017 03:55
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BTW if we can request videos, does anyone know if there's a video with anyone restoring an old lathe with V-style ways and restoring it by hand? The myford lathe has flat ways so that guy just had it machined flat and then shimmed the tailstock to make up for the lost material. That's a pro of flat ways, perhaps the only one? But in my quest for an old lathe I might find myself having to restore and scrape the ways, so it'd be cool to find someone doing that online...
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Apr 12, 2017 07:37
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Bad Munki posted:I tried welding for the first time ever tonight. Below are my first four attempts, top to bottom. Any input from the experts? They look cold. The bead should sink into the base metal, rather than sitting on top. If it looks like hot glue, it's cold. Turn up the voltage, slow down the wire speed, etc. Definitely check out welding tips and tricks on YouTube. Welding is really fun, it just takes practice. If you post you machine settings, we can help more.
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Apr 12, 2017 12:35
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His Divine Shadow posted:BTW if we can request videos, does anyone know if there's a video with anyone restoring an old lathe with V-style ways and restoring it by hand? The myford lathe has flat ways so that guy just had it machined flat and then shimmed the tailstock to make up for the lost material. That's a pro of flat ways, perhaps the only one? I've been reading up on the different styles of lathe beds / ways and my updated conclusion would be it's not that black and white. As I mentioned earlier, the bit about machining the lathe bed flat when it wears is a bigger deal than I thought, mostly because it's cheaper than I thought it would be, and bringing a V style way back to shape is a much more daunting task than I thought. There are pros and cons, but if you as a hobbyist buy an old lathe and it's too clapped out, then having flat bed seems like it could be a really good thing to have... http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/flat-bed-vs-v-ways-lathe-poll-167776/index4.html
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Apr 12, 2017 15:34
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been reading up on the different styles of lathe beds / ways and my updated conclusion would be it's not that black and white. As I mentioned earlier, the bit about machining the lathe bed flat when it wears is a bigger deal than I thought, mostly because it's cheaper than I thought it would be, and bringing a V style way back to shape is a much more daunting task than I thought. There are pros and cons, but if you as a hobbyist buy an old lathe and it's too clapped out, then having flat bed seems like it could be a really good thing to have... We use Turcite for our machines when the wear is excessive. We use it on grinding machines, but you see Turcite going on all kinds of poo poo. Check YouTube, and the usual spots. Getting it on correctly is the key. http://mtsandtg.com/turcite-application http://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d/Turcite/
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Apr 12, 2017 16:45
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Bad Munki posted:I tried welding for the first time ever tonight. Below are my first four attempts, top to bottom. Any input from the experts? As sharkytm said, they are a bit cold, you can see the improvement as you move down due to the preheating of the base metal from the previous beads. Play around with the voltage/wire speed, and work on moving the puddle at a consistent speed.
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Apr 12, 2017 20:27
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For the record, that was with 6013 1/8" stick, on a chunk of 1/4" thick welding steel. I think I hard the welder set to 105? I'm not looking at it right now but I think it steps from 105 to 120, I had it at one of those two. Will probably be playing with it more through the weekend, I'll be back with future results, thanks! Is it worth taking a torch to the metal to preheat things first, or is my biggest hindering factor just myself at this point? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 20:38
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I'm saving up to buy a forge and I'm trying to decide on coal vs gas. I've been reading a lot of opinions in various corners of the Internet on the pros and cons of each. What are the opinions among you wonderful people?
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Apr 13, 2017 00:22
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Bad Munki posted:For the record, that was with 6013 1/8" stick, on a chunk of 1/4" thick welding steel. I think I hard the welder set to 105? I'm not looking at it right now but I think it steps from 105 to 120, I had it at one of those two. For most stick welding you're dragging the molten puddle along in front of the slag. For a good bead in flat position you pretty much want the slag following along immediately behind the molten puddle. If you see the slag start to move forward and wrap around the edges of the puddle to the front you're moving too slow.
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Apr 13, 2017 02:02
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Yooper posted:We use Turcite for our machines when the wear is excessive. We use it on grinding machines, but you see Turcite going on all kinds of poo poo. Check YouTube, and the usual spots. Getting it on correctly is the key. I wasn't made much wiser by what I found on youtube. Best I can tell from forums, it's some kind of material you glue on, then machine and scrape into form. I suppose the advantage there is you can keep original dimensions and don't need to shim up a tailstock on a flat bed, or make new gibs (or shim them) to compensate for lost material. Seems you still need to scrape and machine it after application based on what I read.
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Apr 13, 2017 09:12
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That's pretty cool, since there's no way I know of to add cast iron selectively to a base. I stopped by some other forums recently and got reading about epoxy granite DIY cncs - it's amazing what people are doing with new compounds. By the way, what would be some common feed & cut parameters for a benchtop mill with a 3/8 cutter and a max speed of 1500rpm, going into aluminium? I'm having vibration issues as soon as I go above 0.5mm depth of cut. What's vibration usually a sign to do? Increasing the feed does not help, but decreasing the amount I'm taking off does. Mudfly fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 13, 2017 11:43
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His Divine Shadow posted:I wasn't made much wiser by what I found on youtube. Best I can tell from forums, it's some kind of material you glue on, then machine and scrape into form. I suppose the advantage there is you can keep original dimensions and don't need to shim up a tailstock on a flat bed, or make new gibs (or shim them) to compensate for lost material. Seems you still need to scrape and machine it after application based on what I read. You're correct. You prep the surface, use a special glue to adhere it, clamp it tight, and then bring it to size. We first started using it on a high wear spot on a slide, you can only recut a guide so many times before you run out of iron. It's an added step for sure, but depending on how tore up your ways are it might be worth a go. We have a Studer that is granite, Granitan, or whatever they call it. Nice stuff, definitely dense.
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Apr 13, 2017 12:18
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I haven't even found a lathe yet, and I don't really have room for one until I build a whole new shed to move stuff into  I like to prep in advance though...
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Apr 13, 2017 12:41
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Mudfly posted:That's pretty cool, since there's no way I know of to add cast iron selectively to a base. I stopped by some other forums recently and got reading about epoxy granite DIY cncs - it's amazing what people are doing with new compounds. How stable is your fixture? That's not very much tool pressure so either the machine is really, really light, in which case you're poo poo out of luck, or your method for clamping the workpiece isn't doing the job. If you're using a vice try clamping it a bit tighter. Can't hurt to verify that the tool is tight in the collet as well. As far as feeds, .005 - .008 should be fine. Are you using a 3/8 end mill or an actual cutter like a Woodruff?
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Apr 13, 2017 13:29
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Speaking of machining videos, I thought this was pretty cool. A german guy, he's got an old timey shaper, one of the best videos I have seen on scraping: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG5mOnjrd2Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8Oo-IwBO1Q Seems to be a lot of cool videos in his channel.
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Apr 13, 2017 13:33
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Volkerball posted:How stable is your fixture? That's not very much tool pressure so either the machine is really, really light, in which case you're poo poo out of luck, or your method for clamping the workpiece isn't doing the job. If you're using a vice try clamping it a bit tighter. Can't hurt to verify that the tool is tight in the collet as well. As far as feeds, .005 - .008 should be fine. Are you using a 3/8 end mill or an actual cutter like a Woodruff? I had a small aluminium TIG wire piece in the vice on the back jaw as I'd seen in a video on the net when squaring up a block. I had the piece _very_ tight in the vice, but I did notice one parallel fall over like a domino after I was done. I remembered afterwards I saw the video guy lightly hammer the piece in the vice down onto the parallel. Maybe clamping is my issue. My machine is a benchtop Rong Fu 45 type clone (Tormachs are 12k-30k in Aus), and about 300kgs / 660lbs. It's not bolted down currently, I didn't figure that would be a problem but perhaps it is. I'm using a 2 flute 10mm end mill.
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Apr 13, 2017 14:06
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SwitchbladeKult posted:I'm saving up to buy a forge and I'm trying to decide on coal vs gas. I've been reading a lot of opinions in various corners of the Internet on the pros and cons of each. What are the opinions among you wonderful people? Coal forges are much easier to build yourself, if you're so inclined. Gas forges are very fiddly to build. Gas is available everywhere, but coal can be hard to come by - especially high quality blacksmithing coal. So, I would recommend buying a gas forge now, and building a coal one when you need it. It will be cheaper to operate, unless you have a source for mineral coal.
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Apr 13, 2017 14:21
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Mudfly posted:I had a small aluminium TIG wire piece in the vice on the back jaw as I'd seen in a video on the net when squaring up a block. I had the piece _very_ tight in the vice, but I did notice one parallel fall over like a domino after I was done. I remembered afterwards I saw the video guy lightly hammer the piece in the vice down onto the parallel. Maybe clamping is my issue. Yeah, you definitely want to tap the part down with a rubber mallet. Before you start the spindle up, reach down inside the vice and give the parallels a little push. They don't need to be rock solid, but you do want them to both be snug before you run it. I'd bet that will fix your issue.
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Apr 13, 2017 14:25
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Is a diesel forge an optional (comedy) option? Just saying because after messing with the fuel oil burning foundry setup I have, I cannot imagine using anything lesser for foundry work, so I have to imagine it would work at least OK for forge work.
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Apr 13, 2017 14:33
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mekilljoydammit posted:Is a diesel forge an optional (comedy) option? Just saying because after messing with the fuel oil burning foundry setup I have, I cannot imagine using anything lesser for foundry work, so I have to imagine it would work at least OK for forge work. A non coal forge has three components. A burner, a liner, and insulation. If you want to run a diesel burner and you know how to maintain it, then I don't see why it wouldn't work. I've come across many plans for oil fired blacksmith forges in old books, so it's not as crazy an option as you'd think. However, you still need to build a forge with a refractory liner and insulation. That would be about the same as if you built a propane forge.
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Apr 13, 2017 18:18
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Pagan posted:A non coal forge has three components. A burner, a liner, and insulation. If you want to run a diesel burner and you know how to maintain it, then I don't see why it wouldn't work. I've come across many plans for oil fired blacksmith forges in old books, so it's not as crazy an option as you'd think. Talking to Slung about it, I think I may just build one for shits and grins out of stuff I have sitting around - which is to say, I can move the burner between my foundry and a potential forge, I have a bunch of scrap steel and I think I have about 50 pounds worth of leftover DIY castable refractory from making the foundry. What the heck, free is a good price, right?
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Apr 13, 2017 18:44
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Just got a contract gig manning a tool crib. Gonna start learning a lot of poo poo real soon, apparently their tooling is all "hella dire" so I'm gonna get good at sharpening drills and lathe bits and poo poo.
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Apr 13, 2017 19:50
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Grinding lathe bits is one of the most satisfying things you can do, congrats
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Apr 13, 2017 20:28
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shame on an IGA posted:Grinding lathe bits is one of the most satisfying things you can do, congrats This is a joke right? Cause gently caress that. Indexable carbide for life
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Apr 14, 2017 01:13
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Volkerball posted:Yeah, you definitely want to tap the part down with a rubber mallet. Before you start the spindle up, reach down inside the vice and give the parallels a little push. They don't need to be rock solid, but you do want them to both be snug before you run it. I'd bet that will fix your issue. Cheers I tried this, but the parallels just wouldn't stay put. I went ahead and milled anyway, after leaning like a gorilla on the vice. This weird metal 'parting like the red sea' effect occurred when I tried to mill a slot with a 12mm (1/2" bit):  I'll try shimming the vice tomorrow to stop the jaws kind of angling up which I guess is whats causing the parallels to slip around underneath no matter how much I hammer the piece down. Given that they're slipping around, I can't see how it's not secure as any downward movement would lock them in place. FWIW, my previous 10mm bit from those other passes is now completely blunt around the tip. I'm either doing something very wrong or have very difficult to machine aluminium.
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Apr 14, 2017 08:41
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Mudfly posted:Cheers I tried this, but the parallels just wouldn't stay put. I went ahead and milled anyway, after leaning like a gorilla on the vice. It can be a little touchy trying to get the part to sit flat on the parallels. If the vice is too tight, the part won't move when you hit it. So you kind of snug the vice up, tap the part until the parallels are flat with the part, and then tighten it the rest of the way. You can also have issues where the part can bounce back up off the parallels if you hit it too hard, so it can take some playing with. And you shouldn't have to crank the part down that hard, since you're not dealing with much tool pressure. Just so long as it isn't loose. That said, your finish is god awful and something is hosed up bad. Here's some things you can investigate. Is the table level and square? Is the vice itself level and square? Is the vice tightened properly to the table? Are the jaws in the vice tightened? When the part is tightened, do the jaws sit flush against the part on both sides, or is there a gap? Are the jaws all chewed up and not making good contact with the part? Are the parts bent, crooked, or not square? Does the end mill have corners broken off? Is it deep enough in that collet? Is it tight? Is the spindle hosed up? Do you hear any nasty noises when it's running? Does a tool spin perfectly around itself, or does it look like it might be wobbling side to side a bit? Volkerball fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 09:27
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Jesus christ I had the mill running in reverse.  Flipped the switch and everything is working great.At least I didn't start taking into consideration the curvature of the earth? Or try and return the aluminium?
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Apr 14, 2017 10:14
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Lmao. It happens.
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Apr 14, 2017 10:24
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Some cool 1960's forging videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqt-t8FVvg4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APiSx64c4G0
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Apr 14, 2017 13:04
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