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CharlieWhiskey posted:Consider listening to audiobooks/podcasts/etc. with a single earbud instead of through the car's audio system. When I switched to loud winter tires and my exhaust started to rust open, I just popped in an earbud direct from my phone and my car was none the wiser. Keeping in mind this is illegal in a few states. Google result sums it up: http://lifehacker.com/5902802/ever-wonder-if-its-actually-legal-to-wear-headphones-when-youre-driving
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Apr 13, 2017 16:53
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Also not a great idea to further insulate yourself from the outside noise.
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Apr 13, 2017 17:29
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I'm not sure this is the place to ask, but I'm not rated to wear an N95 mask, I always had to wear a positive pressure hood instead. Would a silicone respirator be adequate protection against fiberglass without a hood, or what should I do?
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Apr 13, 2017 19:50
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Also not a great idea to further insulate yourself from the outside noise. Yeah don't do this
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Apr 13, 2017 23:55
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If deaf people are allowed to drive, so should functionally deaf people! 
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Apr 13, 2017 23:58
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I saw a Kia (looked at least 10yrs old) driving around Oregon and want to figure out what model it was. It bore a strong resemblance to the Suzuki Jimny/Samurai or Geo Tracker, with a hard top on the cab but soft top on the bed, quite a small vehicle. Any guesses what model that would be? I just have a huge weakness for little k-car trucks.
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Apr 14, 2017 00:45
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My road trip protocol is earplugs + crank the stereo. Nobody can hear it on the highway, and the earplugs hugely reduce road noise. For an hour commute I'd do the same.
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Apr 14, 2017 00:58
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Dominoes posted:I'm looking for a car; moving from UK to US. It will mostly be used for a 1-hour highway commute with me listening to audiobooks. Can't have much road/engine noise. Can't be twitchy (ie no miatas with a ripped top). I don't plan to have kids anytime soon. Something fun would be nice. I currently drive an R3 RX-8; basically I'd like that, but with good fuel econ. Ie it's reliable, fun, looks great inside/out, nice interior etc. Looking light-moderately used. Maybe the toyota/subaru/etc sports car that came out a few years ago? Or is that not good for audiobook-commuting? I'd consider a tesla, but I think apartment-living will eliminate that option. I have this 2001 Intrepid. e: missed the mileage requirement
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Apr 14, 2017 01:54
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I saw a Kia (looked at least 10yrs old) driving around Oregon and want to figure out what model it was. It bore a strong resemblance to the Suzuki Jimny/Samurai or Geo Tracker, with a hard top on the cab but soft top on the bed, quite a small vehicle. Any guesses what model that would be? I just have a huge weakness for little k-car trucks. 1st gen Kia Sportage 3 door. Wikipedia says it had a 1 star crash rating. 
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Apr 14, 2017 02:01
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The Door Frame posted:I'm not sure this is the place to ask, but I'm not rated to wear an N95 mask, I always had to wear a positive pressure hood instead. Like how much fiber glass are we talking?
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Apr 14, 2017 02:02
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thylacine posted:1st gen Kia Sportage 3 door. Wikipedia says it had a 1 star crash rating. So it *is* a lot like a Samurai...
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Apr 14, 2017 02:41
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Samurai crushed your hip driving it, the sportage at least gave you the room until you crashed.
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Apr 14, 2017 03:16
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Is there any current non-lovely parallel to the Samurai (full hard-top is fine)?
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Apr 14, 2017 03:31
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Is there any current non-lovely parallel to the Samurai (full hard-top is fine)? Not in any 1st world country
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Apr 14, 2017 03:53
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Not really no. All modern cars are loving enormous and I can't think of a single cross over or mini suv that can go off road. Jeep wrangler maybe but it's been virtually unchanged in the last 30 years.
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Apr 14, 2017 03:55
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Preoptopus posted:Not really no. All modern cars are loving enormous and I can't think of a single cross over or mini suv that can go off road. Jeep wrangler maybe but it's been virtually unchanged in the last 30 years. Maybe kinda sorta if you get a 2 door 5 speed if you can even find one. But nowhere near the tin box Samurai (that I love)
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Apr 14, 2017 04:01
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quote:Not in any 1st world country These are those points we'd have in South America and Africa where we'd just shrug and say "why did we ever live in America again?" Though when a colleague caught cerebral malaria and had to be evacuated to a hospital in Senegal that was a good reminder. Preoptopus posted:Not really no. All modern cars are loving enormous and I can't think of a single cross over or mini suv that can go off road. Jeep wrangler maybe but it's been virtually unchanged in the last 30 years. Setting aside offroad, what would be the closest parallels? And I'm really just tire-kicking at the moment since I won't know until fall where I'm moving so I might need no car, or might be in some city where a car is mandatory for daily life. But if I go back to Africa and work in the bush again I really want a drat Suzuki Jimny.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:39
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Preoptopus posted:Not really no. All modern cars are loving enormous and I can't think of a single cross over or mini suv that can go off road. Jeep wrangler maybe but it's been virtually unchanged in the last 30 years. The basic stripper model JK Wrangler is a more capable off-roader than anything Jeep has offered ever. V Booze and a hill with any Jeep is going to have interesting results. Godholio fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:54
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So is a barbie jeep with enough booze and downhill
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Apr 14, 2017 05:03
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Asking for a coworker. ABS and traction control lights came on. Dealer pulled codes, says it needs a new ABS computer. Is this paired with the rest of the vehicle electronics, or can he snag a used one and throw it in? (I'm expecting the former, but figured I'd ask) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 10:30
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Appreciate the car recs! Unrelated: After sitting for a week, my RX-8 won't start. Fuel pump makes a sound, battery's fine. I had it towed to a shop and they have no idea WTF and said to take it elsewhere. Suggested something about engine compression. Guides online said could be coil packs/spark plugs (I had them replaced a month ago), but the shop didn't seem to like that idea. Any ideas? I think I have to just wait until shops open again next week and shop around for someone who can diagnose.
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Apr 14, 2017 10:32
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Did you try cranking it for a few seconds while holding the gas pedal all the way down, then trying again without touching the gas?
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Apr 14, 2017 12:52
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1995 Ford f150, 4.9L I6, 5 speed manual, 250+ miles. I think the truck has a transmission/clutch problem, but I'm not sure. The videos I got turned out to be crap audio wise so I'll make and post a better video later. I hate when people give too much background in a problem when I'm helping them with their PC but since I'm not sure what's really wrong I'm going to include just a bit of history. The truck has dual fuel tanks, and when I bought it one of the tanks didn't work (switching to that tank via the dash switch just made the engine die). Previously, the truck had some problems starting - the starter would turn over the engine but the engine wouldn't really start, like a fuel problem. When the issue occurred the problem seemed to be to just try it some more until it worked. So, I took it took a reputable repair shop, told them to pull the bed, check both tanks and pumps, the works. It turns out the truck apparently was close to killing me? I wish I still had the picture - the shop insisted I come down and look at the vehicle with the bed pulled. Essentially one of the pumps' wires was caught under the strap for the tank, and I believe badly damaged, and could have caused a spark that would blow me up? Anyway, they fixed that, and they replaced the other tank, which had a burned out pump, and a terrible rusty tank. All in all I believe they replaced both pumps, and one of the tanks, and I've never again had any trouble starting the truck. About a week or two after that repair (which may be entirely unrelated, sorry), I started to notice problems with the truck that seem to be classic clutch problems: while driving I can give the truck gas and the engine RPM will increase, but the truck doesn't accelerate anywhere near as much as I'd expect. But even more noticeable, the truck would start shaking/almost stalling; this would mostly happen right after changing gears, and more so on the lower gears ie: I'd have to feather the clutch and be content to sort of crawl along at ~10mph when leaving first, for a few seconds, until the shaking/stalling died down. It seemed to get better the more the truck warmed up? So, I know a guy who makes a living as a mechanic, I generally think of him as competent and trustworthy (the only reason he didn't do the fuel pump work is because I had trouble getting a hold of him). He tells me to buy a clutch kit, flywheel, rear main seal, and slave cylinder. I buy all that, he puts it all in. I get the truck back and there is, as far as I can tell, zero change in how the truck acts. That brings us to today, a couple months after the clutch repair. The truck still shakes/shudders, it still seems to get a bit better once the truck's warm/gone some miles, and the truck's lack of power when you put the gas pedal down has only gotten worse. My speedometer is broken but I'd guess the truck has trouble clearing 40mph in 4th, previously I could get it up to like 65 on the on-ramp before I really felt like I should shift. I just moved into a house with a two car garage, I bought this truck with the original intent of working on it myself, so let's do it. In Summary: truck shakes/shudders, it seems to get a bit better once the truck's warm/gone some miles, and RPM's don't bring power like they used to. I've had replaced/inspected: fuel pumps, clutch kit, flywheel, slave cylinder. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 13:58
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Go get a compresion and/or cylinder leak down test done.
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Apr 14, 2017 14:58
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EightBit posted:Did you try cranking it for a few seconds while holding the gas pedal all the way down, then trying again without touching the gas?
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Apr 14, 2017 15:42
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Jack B Nimble posted:
Does it behave any differently depending on which tank you're running on?
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Apr 14, 2017 22:26
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I'll check that and the compression tonight and report back.
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Apr 14, 2017 22:59
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2012 Subaru outback. I feel shaking when I break going downhill. Google suggests warped rotors. Is this pretty much it, or are there other potential culprits?
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Apr 15, 2017 00:46
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Could be that, bad tire, failing ball joints/bushings, struts, tie rods, etc.
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Apr 15, 2017 00:54
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theHUNGERian posted:2012 Subaru outback. I feel shaking when I break going downhill. Google suggests warped rotors. Is this pretty much it, or are there other potential culprits? Vibration under braking is a warped rotor 90% of the time. There's not a lot else that will vibrate specifically while braking - most other stuff vibrates at a specific speed or all the time or other situations.
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Apr 15, 2017 01:27
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Deteriorata posted:Vibration under braking is a warped rotor 90% of the time. There's not a lot else that will vibrate specifically while braking - most other stuff vibrates at a specific speed or all the time or other situations. Thanks. I'll drop it off at the mechanic on Tuesday.
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Apr 15, 2017 01:33
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Truck stuttering/stalling and low power update So it may be fixed? I didn't mention this before but a couple days ago I googled the issue, read that my egr valve could be letting in too much exhaust gas and leaning out the engine, so I plugged it up. That didn't really seem to fix it at the time but at the end of that session I unplugged the negative battery terminal for a few minutes (and didn't drive it again). So tonight I start the truck up, switch to the other tank, and take it around the block without issue. No stuttering or stalling, and the power seems as good as it ever has (for this truck). But then I switch it back to the first tank (thinking to reproduce the issue on video) annnnnd nothing; truck seems fine. So yeah, maybe it was just the EGR valve? It wont break my heart if the issue returns, if it does I'll let you know. Now, I was going to do the compression check just because I'd already rented the tool and have never done one, but now I have another stupid question: The online instructions I'm using mention :"On vehicles with distributors: Pull the big wire that leads to the coil from the center of the distributor cap, and lean the metal connector against an unpainted metal surface as far away from the spark plugs as possible." And I don't see what that big wire is on my distributor. I figure this is so the plug wires don't just randomly spark all over the drat engine bay while I'm turning the engine over. Here's pictures of my distributor cap (is the issue that I'm looking at the cap and not...another part?):  
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Apr 15, 2017 03:46
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It's the middle one. Should be the only one that doesn't lead to a spark plug.
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Apr 15, 2017 03:51
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Crap, and I even thought that's what it would be, touched them all to count them, and arrived at the number six. Anyway, thanks, I'll carry on then. Edit: Killed my battery before I'd finished checking the third plug. I really have to turn the engine over 36 (6x6) times for a compression test? I turned it over some before hand trying to figure which/how many fuses were needed to kill the gas, but I still don't think I'd make it through 36 turns. Then again, just now the very first car I looked up on you tube goes "turnturnturnturnturn" whereas my truck, even at the start, was going " t u r n ... t u r n ... ". The battery is 2 or 3 years old and I don't live in a cold climate. Eh, I'll jump it off tomorrow, diagnose why the battery was weak and died, and then do the test again. For what it's worth it showed 125 psi on #1, 100 psi on #2, so it's already shown that my engine is worn out (no poo poo). I didn't pour a teaspoon of oil into the worn cylinder to see if was a piston ring. Anyway, thanks for the help all, I'm still fairly happy with how it turned out, a bum battery is no big deal, but that's all for tonight. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Apr 15, 2017 |
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Apr 15, 2017 03:56
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36 times? 5 seconds is what I usually do. edit: \/ Sorry I missed the by hand part. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Apr 15, 2017 |
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Apr 15, 2017 18:00
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His battery is dead. Five seconds by hand isn't going to accomplish much.
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Apr 15, 2017 18:28
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Looking at used cars, got a few leads on camry-class cars waiting for email replies. In the meantime I'm looking at ~'95-'05 model year full-size pickups (I'm too big for small trucks). I know about what to expect from the V8s, but how do the manufacturers' various V6 options stack up? All I know is the Chevy 4.3 is an amputated 350.
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Apr 15, 2017 19:45
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I have an 06 F150 with the 4.2l V6. Works fine for me as a DD and has hauled anything I've needed to, like mulch, small uhaul trailers, etc. Haven't towed a car or anything with it. Runs great and has 239k miles on it, just loses a little oil between changes.
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Apr 15, 2017 21:09
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I need to fit some new brake hoses on the rear of my car. Fitted the fronts yesterday easily enough if you ignore the 'fun' I had with the multiple clips that took an age to wiggle free due to years of road crap and rust. So I tried to get the hard line unscrewed from the existing hose and I feel like if I twist any harder it's going to round off. I soaked it in penetrating oil but that didn't seem to help. What else can I try?
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Apr 15, 2017 23:06
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Use a torch on it. Just be careful how hot you get the fitting, you don't want it glowing. If that doesn't work you'll probably need to trace the line back to the nearest long/straight segment and splice in a new length with a new fitting.
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Apr 15, 2017 23:21
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