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It cost about $550, sanded/oiled and delivered to my door (about 50 miles away) from some dude my wife found on craigslist. He charged by the linear foot and that slab was 26"x84". I had him chop off the last 6" and then had our general contractor build a goofy island around this post so the doggo could have a nice place to eat.  edit: Waterlox cost another ~$70.
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Apr 11, 2017 22:28
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That's super neato! Looks great!
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Apr 11, 2017 22:30
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nosleep posted:Thanks for the advice on the hinges. Definitely will be using a drill press to make sure I get an accurate cut and will try on plenty of scrap. Will a 1 3/8 inch bit work as a substitute for a 35mm bit? I actually noticed on my kitchen cabinets which have the same type of hinges they fully overlay the opening with no reveal and still work, so hopefully this come together. I cant remember which one is bigger, I'm thinking 1 3/8" by a hair. Again, see how you feel with a piece of scrap. If it wallows around in a 1 3/8" hole, welp. Trabant posted:On the topic of hinges: what do you call those that allow a cabinet panel to open and then slide into the carcass? You can see them in anything from old-school tool chests (like Gerstner) to, sadly, those mounted in cubicles. Are they sliding hinges? Pivot hinges? I forget the name, but Ive installed them a few times and they're expensive and a bitch. Sliding Track hinges? I saw a bunch for next to nothing at my favorite 2nds door and hardware store last weekend...
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Apr 11, 2017 22:37
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Mr. Mambold posted:I forget the name, but Ive installed them a few times and they're expensive and a bitch. Sliding Track hinges? I saw a bunch for next to nothing at my favorite 2nds door and hardware store last weekend... Yeah, I'm getting the impression they're not worth the hassle or cost. Plus, it gives me the excuse to instead finally try making a tambour door... gently caress, I really need to keep these impulses under control. One project at a time, idiot.
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Apr 12, 2017 01:53
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Skippy Granola posted:For dovetail practise I made a candle box out of 4/4 honduran mahogany decking and finished with orange shellac Better dovetails than I could ever hope to do
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Apr 12, 2017 03:58
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Mr Executive posted:1. Is this enough support for the frame? I have little building experience, and none using oak 2x4s. Do I need another beam (and/or legs) running lengthwise down the middle of the bed? Are oak 2x4s overkill (would 5/4x4 work)? The distance between posts (legs) running from head to foot would be ~36", while the span across the bed will probably be closer to 60". Quoting myself as I still don't know about these. Will 10 oak 2x4s (4 lengthwise, 6 across), cross-lapped and carriage-bolted to notched oak 4x4s at the intersections be enough support? Would using plywood (as opposed to slats) and actually attaching it to the frame provide any worthwhile improvement?
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Apr 12, 2017 15:43
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Mr Executive posted:Quoting myself as I still don't know about these. Will 10 oak 2x4s (4 lengthwise, 6 across), cross-lapped and carriage-bolted to notched oak 4x4s at the intersections be enough support? Would using plywood (as opposed to slats) and actually attaching it to the frame provide any worthwhile improvement? I've been designing a loft bed for a double sized mattress and I'm going to cheat and use the slats + frame for them from an existing bed. My suggestion is to go with slats since that's what most bed frames I've seen use.
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Apr 12, 2017 15:53
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Mr Executive posted:Quoting myself as I still don't know about these. Will 10 oak 2x4s (4 lengthwise, 6 across), cross-lapped and carriage-bolted to notched oak 4x4s at the intersections be enough support? Would using plywood (as opposed to slats) and actually attaching it to the frame provide any worthwhile improvement? You should not put the mattress on a solid surface like plywood, the slats have spacing to let the bottom of the mattress breathe.
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Apr 12, 2017 16:04
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nielsm posted:You should not put the mattress on a solid surface like plywood, the slats have spacing to let the bottom of the mattress breathe. Good point. Thanks If I use slats, then I assume I'm getting basically no added support. I'm not a structural engineer, but I feel like a frame like this made out of regular pine 2x4s would be pretty solid, and oak 2x4s would only be stronger, right? Or am I being dumb in dropping like $400 on 2x4s that won't even be seen?
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Apr 12, 2017 19:48
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Mr Executive posted:Good point. Thanks Pine 2x4s can support multi story buildings. You don't need oak 2x4s for your bed. You could probably use 1x4s.
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Apr 12, 2017 21:50
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mds2 posted:Pine 2x4s can support multi story buildings. You don't need oak 2x4s for your bed. You could probably use 1x4s. That's good to hear. Simply using 5/4x4s would save a ton of money and weight. The only spot I'm worried about is right down the middle, but I suppose I could put another beam down the middle if necessary.
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Apr 13, 2017 15:23
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Mr Executive posted:It cost about $550, sanded/oiled and delivered to my door (about 50 miles away) from some dude my wife found on craigslist. He charged by the linear foot and that slab was 26"x84". I had him chop off the last 6" and then had our general contractor build a goofy island around this post so the doggo could have a nice place to eat. PUPPY STATION
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Apr 13, 2017 15:58
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Alright well based on the advice here and things I've read elsewhere Waterlox seems to be pretty popular and should make Walnut look great and offer a little more protection than just Danish oil etc. I picked up the Original Satin finish. It's the "new formula" which apparently is not as good as the original, but I'm hoping it will still look nice enough. Of course there are a hundred different recommendations for how to apply it. All ranging from its fool proof and the easiest thing to apply to it being bad about leaving streaks, bubbles, etc. I'm putting on this cabinet and I want a nice natural looking finish with no gloss, so I'm not doing the other original sealer as initial coats followed by the satin at the end which seems to be the basic instruction. Hopefully this will be OK. I have some foam brushes but could also using a cotton rag stuffed in some panty hose. Should I do light coat, let it dry 24 hours, then further light coats just until I get the look I want? I think I'll only sand between coats if it looks like any dust or anything settles. I don't need to have a ton of protection on it but I think this will give it a slight amount vs pure oil finish. Any thoughts or other tips on Waterlox for this particular piece? Thanks!
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Apr 14, 2017 00:14
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If you have any experience and/or skill, it should be very easy. That butcher block was my first ever attempt at actually putting any effort into staining anything. I used foam brushes for all seven coats and they worked well once I discovered you're supposed to put it on pretty heavy and let it self level. There's also no need to sand between coats unless you're dumb like me and slop a thin coat on back and forth really fast and introduce a ton of air bubbles. I have no idea if skipping the base coat of original Waterlox is kosher, I'm a rule follower.
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Apr 14, 2017 01:40
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Let's say I have a 1"x12"x24" board and I chop it into (2) 1"x12"x12" boards. Whats the best way to securely reconnect the boards into a 1"x12"x24", while still being able to disassemble into separate pieces?
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Apr 14, 2017 19:32
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Mr Executive posted:Let's say I have a 1"x12"x24" board and I chop it into (2) 1"x12"x12" boards. Whats the best way to securely reconnect the boards into a 1"x12"x24", while still being able to disassemble into separate pieces? Pocket holes, dowel joints? A lot probably depends on how you are going to use it, and what kind of stresses will be on it.
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Apr 14, 2017 19:44
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Mr Executive posted:Let's say I have a 1"x12"x24" board and I chop it into (2) 1"x12"x12" boards. Whats the best way to securely reconnect the boards into a 1"x12"x24", while still being able to disassemble into separate pieces? The kind of connectors Ikea and other pre-manufactured furniture uses? Two parts: male side that screws into one and the female side uses a cam nut you give like a half twist to have it grab and tighten the post. I guess it's called a furniture cam lock and nut. This kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Co...MTRWGEQJR88W0KS
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Apr 14, 2017 20:03
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Yeah, I'm kinda looking for the same broad idea as the ikea connectors. This is going to be hidden, so I was thinking there's gotta be some sort of bracket I can attach to each side of joint that latches them together. Ideally with some sort of screw/etc mechanism that lets you really clamp the pieces together tightly.
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Apr 14, 2017 20:58
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Festoon is releasing breakdown components that fit in a domino hole. Looks cool but not a practical answer for a small project.
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Apr 14, 2017 21:27
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Atticus_1354 posted:Festoon is releasing breakdown components that fit in a domino hole. Looks cool but not a practical answer for a small project. 1) festoon is a hilarious but accurate name. 2) holy gently caress when did this come out?!?!?
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Apr 15, 2017 00:02
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Tim Thomas posted:1) festoon is a hilarious but accurate name. My phone apparently has strong opinions on tool brands. I don't know when it came out but I happened to see it a little while ago. They look pretty cool and if I someday buy a domino I will definitely use that feature.
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Apr 15, 2017 00:35
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So I just finished making my own bed. It's literally the first wood working project I've ever done and I'm really happy with how it came out. Mine cost about $300 in the end with paint and I couldn't recommended this project more for someone who wants to build something nice but doesn't have a ton of tools to work with. I have people seriously asking me to build them one. My next project will be matching night stands
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Apr 17, 2017 16:17
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um excuse me posted:So I just finished making my own bed. It's literally the first wood working project I've ever done and I'm really happy with how it came out. Mine cost about $300 in the end with paint and I couldn't recommended this project more for someone who wants to build something nice but doesn't have a ton of tools to work with. That looks great (especially for a first project) -- good work.
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Apr 17, 2017 16:42
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Indeed, really nice project independent of the fact that it was your first.
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Apr 17, 2017 16:47
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This came up a while back and I didnt save the link... can someone recommend a good, reliable moisture meter that wont break the bank. I moved to the country and now have tons of space. My plan is to build a decent sized kiln next to my shop.
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Apr 17, 2017 17:23
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Just manage to score a 3' long slab of 8/4 cumaru for free 
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Apr 17, 2017 20:58
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Super Waffle posted:Just manage to score a 3' long slab of 8/4 cumaru for free I'm jealous. What are you planning on doing with it? Something for a deck or patio, perhaps?
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Apr 17, 2017 21:21
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um excuse me posted:So I just finished making my own bed. It's literally the first wood working project I've ever done and I'm really happy with how it came out. Mine cost about $300 in the end with paint and I couldn't recommended this project more for someone who wants to build something nice but doesn't have a ton of tools to work with. I also just finished up a bed frame, like usual I didn't have an actual plan but I think it turned out pretty well. Poplar on the outside, spf on the inside, with lights, paint and stain it came out to just under 200.  
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Apr 18, 2017 00:54
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That bed looks great too. Love how you can see the grain behind the paint. Backlighting is an awesome idea
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Apr 18, 2017 02:21
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So if you soak a gunstock in lye solution to get rid of a botched dye job (soaked too deep to be able to sand off), the wood gets real weird, real flexible, so much that when it dried, the forestock (1873 winchester stock replica) had bowed out significantly. Solution... soak it again, then mount it in the gun (wrapped in plastic wrap) and clamp it to dry in place. Well I hope that's the solution, if not I guess have a piece of walnut in the right size, so I could learn to make a new stock. I might do that even so, with some cheaper wood. Good skill to have I think.
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Apr 19, 2017 05:01
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I'm super mad at my router and router table, I setup everything perfectly to cut some slots, tightened everything. Did a test cut on a scrap piece of wood and it came out perfectly. Made all 8 cuts, then discovered that after about cut 3 or 4, the depth of the bit started slipping down, and the whole loving router started moving during cuts.  I'm going to have to fix it by hand now and put some wedges in to hold the loose joint.
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Apr 22, 2017 14:25
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That's the worst. My first router was a monster 15 amp Hitachi plunge, and the collet was complete garbage. I had bits slip down while running constantly. I think it gave me mild PTSD, because I only recently managed to start trusting my newer Milwaukee plunge/fixed combo.
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Apr 22, 2017 14:47
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Cherrywood cheeseboard / serving tray for my mom. Didnt come out perfect but a fun and quick project. http://imgur.com/a/Desul
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Apr 23, 2017 05:36
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Making a new forestock for my '73 uberti lever after I ruined the factory one (stained it, hated it, removed stain but the process warped it to heck). Fortunately I have some walnut in the right size. Tonights work, I started on a prototype from pine since walnuts too expensive to test your way ahead with. It's funny how much harder it is to work softwood than hardwood when it comes to chisel work, based on the name you'd think it'd be the other way around...  The barrel is tapered, so the cutout has to be tapered too, I measured the barrel at the front and base of the stock and by hot gluing some shims of the right thickness to the sides I could produce the required taper on my table saw and then router table for the octagonal profile. I hogged out roughly where the stock meets the receiver with the table saw and finished it with chisel and mallet. I need to buy a 16mm drill thats long enough to go through the whole thing next to fit the tubular magazine. A ball end mill could also work I think, hog out as much as possible first with the table saw.
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Apr 23, 2017 08:05
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That's pretty much how I make forestocks, except I only effort matching the stock to the barrel at the front, and bed it in the rear with filler putty.
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Apr 23, 2017 19:47
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I might have to resort to putty at the rear actually, the front will match to a cap that will hide most of the front so I can actually be less forgiving there. Less contact except at the receiver I think is better anyway.
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Apr 23, 2017 20:36
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No contact is ideal. Consistent contact is better than inconsistent contact. Also the difference is unlikely to matter at iron sighted levergun range.
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Apr 23, 2017 20:59
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Made another one of these kitchen helpers/kids stepstool I had some -really- cheap curlyish maple that turned out more interesting than I expected with finish. It looks a little silly, to be honest.       
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Apr 24, 2017 01:20
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If I was going to make a butchers block style workbench, and don't have access to a thicknesser/bench planer, what alternatives do I have for making the faces straight for gluing? I feel like tablesaw is the wrong answer here.
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Apr 24, 2017 15:11
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Spookydonut posted:If I was going to make a butchers block style workbench, and don't have access to a thicknesser/bench planer, what alternatives do I have for making the faces straight for gluing? Get thee a jack plane son. I actually didn't even face plane my boards when I laminated my bench top. As long as you select relatively straight pieces and use a lot of clamps they'll hold together fine. At least mine did anyway.
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Apr 24, 2017 15:16
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