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Olympic Mathlete posted:I need to fit some new brake hoses on the rear of my car. Fitted the fronts yesterday easily enough if you ignore the 'fun' I had with the multiple clips that took an age to wiggle free due to years of road crap and rust. Ever since Ken mentioned that he uses his locking adjustable wrench for brake lines, I haven't used my flare nut wrenches at all, and it's had no trouble. Then again, I haven't done brakes on anything particularly old recently.
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Apr 15, 2017 23:58
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So just how much of a pain in the arse is ripping out old/munted formed carpet and replacing it? I'd probably be doing it solo, is it a couple hour job? 4+ hrs? Anything to really watch out for? simmyb fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 01:56
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simmyb posted:So just how much of a pain in the arse is ripping out old/munted formed carpet and replacing it? What vehicle? I carpeted my Ranger in a few hours but that was literally like a dozen bolts to get the seats/belts out, and shifter off, and run new power/speaker wires for the stereo, amps, speakers and sub.
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Apr 16, 2017 04:11
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Question for the hive mind: I need some sort of seat cushion for my car. The seats are plenty comfortable however they are leather and after any extended driving situation i get some swamp rear end and a damp back. I'd like to have something that will not damage the leather seat, and will also keep me cooler / give me some air flow/heat reduction.
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Apr 16, 2017 08:21
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`Nemesis posted:Question for the hive mind:  I am not joking. They really do work. However, there is a slight image issue.
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Apr 16, 2017 13:29
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I don't care if they are uncool looking, they are cool as poo poo in a car with no ac.
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Apr 16, 2017 15:04
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My old neighbor just had the engine(5 liter v8) replaced in his 88 silverado, and now it has no power in gear. It will rev freely in park or neutral, but in gear it barely revs with the pedal to the floor. Is there something simple that we can check that may have been left disconnected? Or does it sound like something more complicated?
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Apr 16, 2017 16:20
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spog posted:
Honestly it was my first guess, but I am concerned that the beads would damage the leather seat... any thoughts on that?
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Apr 16, 2017 20:02
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They might dimple the leather a bit over time, but those will be the cheapest way to avoid swamp rear end. Mesh seat covers will probably be a bit better for the leather, but you'll spend a bit more on ones that actually fit. FWIW, a set for my front seats is $162 from coverking.com.  (and they only make rears for the sedan's 60/40 bench, the coupe has buckets in the back).
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Apr 16, 2017 20:18
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I replaced the AT extension housing seal on my 94 chevrolet c1500. When I pulled the drive shaft off, this tumbled out of the yoke.  It functions like a poorly shaped bouncy ball. Anywho. I then spent about an hour removing the seal from the housing because nothing is easy and I didn't want to spend the 10 dollars on the removal tool. New seal went in with a bit of gentle hammering, replaced the drive shaft. Then I made the mistake, I put a gallon of AT fluid in because I assumed that it was nearly empty. Drove home, went inside for 2 minutes, came back out, transmission fluid all over the place. It did not come from the seal I replaced, nor did the pan gasket leak. My question is as follows, assuming I added way too much fluid, is there some kind of overflow or release? And if so do I need to bother draining more fluid or will this problem resolve itself?
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Apr 16, 2017 21:47
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It may have come from the dipstick. Did you check that?
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Apr 16, 2017 22:14
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wesleywillis posted:It may have come from the dipstick. Did you check that? As in I did not engage the dipstick correctly? Well alright I'll go check that. Edit: Nope Elusif fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 22:25
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E Equals MC Hammer posted:As in I did not engage the dipstick correctly? Well alright I'll go check that. Having thought about it a bit more, I *think* that there are some transmissions that have some sort of vent device on them. The first thing that came to mind was GM RWD transmissions. Then I looked back at your post, and you have a GM truck. So yeah, could be from a vent or something. Hope this helped.
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Apr 16, 2017 23:27
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I'll keep an eye on it, thanks.
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Apr 16, 2017 23:30
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Majere posted:My old neighbor just had the engine(5 liter v8) replaced in his 88 silverado, and now it has no power in gear. It will rev freely in park or neutral, but in gear it barely revs with the pedal to the floor. Is there something simple that we can check that may have been left disconnected? Or does it sound like something more complicated? Is the tv cable adjusted right?
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Apr 17, 2017 00:54
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Christobevii3 posted:Is the tv cable adjusted right? If the TV cable was wrong, you'd get lovely/no shifts and the trans would eat itself, right? Maybe the transmission is trying to be in a much higher gear than it should be in, but that would indicate it's misreading its own vehicle speed, which doesn't make sense because the trans itself generates that signal. Does the throttle cable/linkage operate correctly? With the motor off I'd make sure the pedal gets you WOT. Then I'd take a look at fuel pressure. Maybe a clogged fuel filter? What does it do when you try to rev it, does it bog and chug or anything, or just literally do nothing as if it thinks it's supposed to continue idling?
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Apr 17, 2017 02:50
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wesleywillis posted:Having thought about it a bit more, I *think* that there are some transmissions that have some sort of vent device on them. Yup, should be a 700R4 (or maybe early 4L60E). Same thing mechanically, and they do have a vent tube: 
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Apr 17, 2017 04:56
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For future reference, pretty much every (real, as in uses a torque converter) automatic has most of the fluid in the torque converter and cooler. You probably overfilled it by a couple of quarts. Start it, let it idle until it's warm, run it through every gear position (stopping for a second or two on each gear) from park to 1, then back to park. Then check the dipstick and drain as necessary. May have to loosen the pan bolts around one corner if there's not a drain plug. Try not to deform the pan, but no reason to completely drop the pan. Been there done that.
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Apr 17, 2017 06:08
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I'd probably crack open a cooler line before trying to drop the pan a little, because pan gaskets suck, but there are a bunch of ways if you don't have a drain plug. Least messy would be suction out the dipstick tube, if you have a siphon or something like that. Improvise!
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Apr 17, 2017 20:28
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Looks like my dad's 2003 Ranger has the factory coolant in it so it's time for a flush. I see some rusty build up on the rad cap and inside the rad, are there any chemical based flush products that actually work? Or should I just pull the rad and pressure flush it?
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Apr 17, 2017 21:01
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SHAQ4PREZ posted:Looks like my dad's 2003 Ranger has the factory coolant in it so it's time for a flush. I see some rusty build up on the rad cap and inside the rad, are there any chemical based flush products that actually work? Or should I just pull the rad and pressure flush it? treatment my shop uses. I can't tell you how effective it is with an at home approach. Honestly coolant flushes are one of thoes things your better off just paying a shop 100 bucks to do. Avoid all the mess have them run a high pressure machine to pump out all the new and put in the new with cleaner and conditioner. Plus the bleed. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 17, 2017 |
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Apr 17, 2017 21:27
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So, I just purchased a car out of state, and as part of the purchase, I went to the bank with the seller to pay off his lien. They didn't have the title on hand, so they had the DMV send it to me. This is where I should have started asking questions-- I now have a title with the sellers name as the owner and myself listed as the lienholder. Has this happened to anyone else? Do I need to mail the title back to the seller and get him to sign it, and then sign a lien release for myself, and then register it under my name? Or is the bill of sale plus the lienholder title enough to register it?
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Apr 18, 2017 04:10
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Leo posted:So, I just purchased a car out of state, and as part of the purchase, I went to the bank with the seller to pay off his lien. They didn't have the title on hand, so they had the DMV send it to me. This is where I should have started asking questions-- I now have a title with the sellers name as the owner and myself listed as the lienholder. Sounds like you need to contact the DMV and/or the bank and get the title registered properly. He's not buying the car from you, you're buying it from him - but if the lien is cleared it will be his car. It's fundamentally screwed up and you need to get it straightened out.
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Apr 18, 2017 04:23
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Leo posted:So, I just purchased a car out of state, and as part of the purchase, I went to the bank with the seller to pay off his lien. They didn't have the title on hand, so they had the DMV send it to me. This is where I should have started asking questions-- I now have a title with the sellers name as the owner and myself listed as the lienholder. Holy crap that is messed up, don't mail the seller anything man
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Apr 18, 2017 17:18
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Preoptopus posted:Go get a compresion and/or cylinder leak down test done.
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Apr 18, 2017 18:42
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Deteriorata posted:Sounds like you need to contact the DMV and/or the bank and get the title registered properly. He's not buying the car from you, you're buying it from him - but if the lien is cleared it will be his car. It's fundamentally screwed up and you need to get it straightened out. So I spoke with the seller's bank, who basically said it was a clerical error and to contact the DMV. I also spoke to the DMV, who said they need a signature on the title. Short of flying out there to get the signature, it sounds like I just have to send the guy the title. When he sends it back, I can release the lien and register it. Let's hope for the best.
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Apr 18, 2017 19:17
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Odd squeak from my front driver side wheel. Only really noticeable sometimes, seems related to speed of wheel. I recently had my tires rotated, so I wonder if it could be a sporadically sticking brake pad, maybe a bad strut? (I need new struts and brakes EVENTUALLY but I'd love to put the job off if I can)
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Apr 18, 2017 19:58
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Another "what's this noise" post... '99 E350 with the 6.8 V10. Just had the coils and plugs all replaced (and I just changed the oil) and now this is happening. It sounds like something is loose and rattling around but I can't see anything obviously out of place. Haven't noticed any difference at all driving, the sound is really only apparent at idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vir-sM-Z2p0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_O0Aosxi5Y Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 18, 2017 |
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Apr 18, 2017 20:26
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We're moving into a new house and the driveway is fairly steep. Is there a smart way (best practice) to engage my emergency brake? Usually I wouldn't be concerned but since we'll be parking every day on the incline I want to make sure. Our transmission is automatic and usually I hit the regular brake, put the car in Park, and then engage the emergency brake. When I leave the driveway I hit the pedal brake, release the emergency brake, put it in Drive, and go. Is this okay for every day parking?
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Apr 18, 2017 20:46
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me your dad posted:We're moving into a new house and the driveway is fairly steep. Is there a smart way (best practice) to engage my emergency brake? Usually I wouldn't be concerned but since we'll be parking every day on the incline I want to make sure. Our transmission is automatic and usually I hit the regular brake, put the car in Park, and then engage the emergency brake. When I leave the driveway I release the emergency brake, put it in Drive, and go. Is this okay for every day parking? The transmission as a pawl that engages in Park to keep the car from rolling, so there shouldn't be much stress on your emergency brake. You should be fine.
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Apr 18, 2017 20:49
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Deteriorata posted:The transmission as a pawl that engages in Park to keep the car from rolling, so there shouldn't be much stress on your emergency brake. You should be fine. Thanks!
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Apr 18, 2017 20:53
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If you want the car to rest on the brake instead of the pawl, the best method is to apply the brakes, shift to neutral, apply parking brake and let off the foot brake. Once the car settles shift it into park.
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Apr 18, 2017 22:43
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Captain Yossarian posted:Odd squeak from my front driver side wheel. Only really noticeable sometimes, seems related to speed of wheel. I recently had my tires rotated, so I wonder if it could be a sporadically sticking brake pad, maybe a bad strut? (I need new struts and brakes EVENTUALLY but I'd love to put the job off if I can) does it squeak when you turn left to right while stationary? Likely ball joints. If it squeaks while driving id be looking at the brakes.
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Apr 18, 2017 22:44
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Preoptopus posted:does it squeak when you turn left to right while stationary? Likely ball joints. If it squeaks while driving id be looking at the brakes. You know I'll have to pay more attention the next time I hear it. Thank you!
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Apr 18, 2017 22:48
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:If you want the car to rest on the brake instead of the pawl, the best method is to apply the brakes, shift to neutral, apply parking brake and let off the foot brake. Once the car settles shift it into park. This is the best advice, and I would strongly recommend following it when parking on an incline. Parking pawl failure is something that AI seems to be overreactive about, but if you're going to be doing this every day then no reason to not do it the right way.
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Apr 19, 2017 00:11
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Dominoes posted:Thanks. I think I'm boned. The Mazda dealership doesn't have any openings until Mid May, and I have to sell the car because I'm leaving the country shortly after. (not to mention bumming rides to work everyday is less-than-ideal). Going to try other local shops, but already had another one tell me it would be pointless, because "RX-8s always break at 60k miles, we won't be able to do anything, I've seen this many times before". - which smells like Bull because neither the shop that checked the batt, nor the ones that refuse seem to really want to investigate before assuming critical engine failure. :/ What year rx-8 is this? An earlier one failing at 60-80k is entirely believable on them. Another option might be seeing if mazda will honor the recall on the motor even though its out of the time frame. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 03:11
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I drive a Volkswagen Golf. Manufacturer recommend 32psi tyre pressure for two passengers and some luggage. Last time I checked my tyre pressure was way back, maybe last July / August. I just topped my tyre pressure up now, and cold tyres showed a pressure of 24-26psi, varying between the two front and two back tyres. My question is: how much damage have I done by not regularly checking my tyre pressure, and how often should I check in future? Is the only damage I've done increased wear by having them underinflated? Also, how OCD should I be about "cold tyres"? The drive from my house to the garage is about ten minutes, and I kept to a speed of 30mph to not heat the tyres up too much. Will this give me an accurate reading of tyre pressure?
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Apr 19, 2017 03:47
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Loopoo posted:
No damage, If any. It will be more apparent if your alignment is bad. Twice a year fall/spring. Yes, but unless you drive like a maniac/race, you won't see any difference. quote:Also, how OCD should I be about "cold tyres"? The drive from my house to the garage is about ten minutes, and I kept to a speed of 30mph to not heat the tyres up too much. Will this give me an accurate reading of tyre pressure? 1 PSI per 10 degrees F.
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Apr 19, 2017 03:55
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Tyre pressure isn't really all that big a deal then, if I can go an entire year without checking it. I'm almost certain tyre pressure was at 26psi for a good 3 or 4 months, cause that's about when I noticed my handling got a bit crappy. Cheers for the answers man.
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Apr 19, 2017 04:03
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Loopoo posted:I drive a Volkswagen Golf. Manufacturer recommend 32psi tyre pressure for two passengers and some luggage. Last time I checked my tyre pressure was way back, maybe last July / August. I just topped my tyre pressure up now, and cold tyres showed a pressure of 24-26psi, varying between the two front and two back tyres. Under-inflated tires run hot, which decreases their overall tread life. Roughly 10% decrease in tread life for every 10% it's under-inflated. So your tires were wearing about 20% faster than they would have if properly inflated. If you drove 1000 miles that way, you lost about 200 miles of tread. Not a big deal. Get them back up to proper pressure and you'll be fine.
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Apr 19, 2017 04:08
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