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Apparently the Uber credit works for Uber eats too if you don't use it for taxing around.
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Apr 7, 2017 03:45
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Apologies in advance if I should ask this in the newbie thread. I finished grad school about a year ago and have had a steady job since then. I finished all my school with no student loans, no car loan, and no bad credit events (from what I can tell of checking my report), so I got a super-basic credit card through my credit union last year to start building credit. I've been paying the whole balance off monthly for the past 7 or 8 months. Unfortunately my credit union doesn't print my credit score on my monthly statement so I'm not sure what it is. At this point, should I apply for the Discover secured card so I can start getting the score and the rewards, or try for something with more rewards (looking at Delta gold but haven't really reviewed everything else, which I would do first)?
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Apr 12, 2017 04:28
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For the first part of it, CreditKarma has a pretty great free system to track your own credit - I'd definitely check that out to figure out where you're at.
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Apr 12, 2017 04:32
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Badger of Basra posted:Apologies in advance if I should ask this in the newbie thread. If you have a reasonable income and no bad credit events, then you shouldn't have any problem getting a real credit card. Check CreditKarma.com for a free credit estimate. The scores they give you will not be 100% accurate, but they will be within 10-20 points of what it actually is and provide you with a detailed list of your open accounts, credit history, and liklihood of getting approved. If you don't plan on doing any churning, then a Citi Doublecash is a super basic card with a good rewards structure (2% on everything; no limit) and I would look at that. If you do plan on churning, then do the Chase cards (Freedom, Freedom Unlimited, Sapphire Preferred, etc) first. If you know your income, a fairly accurate breakdown of your monthly spending categories, and desired reward payout (cashback, miles, etc) then we could give you a good min/max of what card to get. If you just want the ability to float some cash and get some rewards in an uncomplicated manner, then just get a double cash or a Discover IT for the first year bonus and then get a Doublecash after the first year bonus on the IT runs out. Leon Trotsky 2012 fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 04:34
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Power of Pecota posted:For the first part of it, CreditKarma has a pretty great free system to track your own credit - I'd definitely check that out to figure out where you're at. Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:If you have a reasonable income and no bad credit events, then you shouldn't have any problem getting a real credit card. Thanks for the CreditKarma rec - according to them my credit utilization is too high so that's easy to change. It's still in a pretty iffy range right now (630s) and at least according to CreditKarma the Doublecash approval chance is poor. My fault for not doing my research on the credit utilization ratio.
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Apr 12, 2017 05:08
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Badger of Basra posted:Thanks for the CreditKarma rec - according to them my credit utilization is too high so that's easy to change. It's still in a pretty iffy range right now (630s) and at least according to CreditKarma the Doublecash approval chance is poor. My fault for not doing my research on the credit utilization ratio. If you pay off your entire balance every month, then your utilization doesn't really matter. What is your income? And what does credit karma say are the factors lowering your score? No derogatory marks and a year of payments should have a higher score. You are probably fine to apply for Discover or Citi if you have no other issues and a reasonable income.
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Apr 12, 2017 05:16
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Badger of Basra posted:Thanks for the CreditKarma rec - according to them my credit utilization is too high so that's easy to change. It's still in a pretty iffy range right now (630s) and at least according to CreditKarma the Doublecash approval chance is poor. My fault for not doing my research on the credit utilization ratio. There's no history to utilization, so if you pay it all off and it next reports as very low (under 10%), you're likely to see a large spike in your score. Conversely, if you run a large utilization one month, you'll see your scores tank. CK shows you VantageScore 3.0 from TransUnion and Equifax; this is different from what most lenders use, which is FICO. Sometimes the difference in scores is substantial: my FICOs from the three bureaus (the two above, plus Experian) are all above 830, but I had CreditKarma showing me ~780 a few months back. Run a low balance one month (make sure it's ~5-10% utilization before the statement cuts) and see what your scores are after that. You might see a big enough bump to get your approval odds up on a DoubleCash. Discover It is also a great card due to the cashback being doubled at the end of your first year (so effectively unlimited 2% back on everything and 10% back on the quarterly spend categories, up to $1500 in purchases each quarter), so if your approval odds for that are better than with Citi, try that. Edit - to illustrate the difference in scores, Credit Karma is currently showing me 809 TU, 804 EQ. myFICO, which I pay for because I like their products in general, shows me 844 TU, 834 EQ. Above 760 this doesn't really matter, but a 30 point difference in other brackets can be pretty huge. Your odds may be better (or worse, but probably better) than you think. becoming fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 05:18
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Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:If you pay off your entire balance every month, then your utilization doesn't really matter. Income is $3000/mo after taxes and pension deductions. CreditKarma says the things lowering my score are credit utilization (too high), credit history (not enough of it - 6 months according to them), and total accounts (too few). becoming posted:There's no history to utilization, so if you pay it all off and it next reports as very low (under 10%), you're likely to see a large spike in your score. Conversely, if you run a large utilization one month, you'll see your scores tank. It might be this since my utilization last month in particular was pretty high. I'll leave it this month and see what that does. Badger of Basra fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 05:19
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I just applied for my second ever Amex BGR Business card with no lifetime limitation language. Reading reports online, it seems pretty certain that my 75,000 MR will post...but will they get clawed back 2 months later? Here's hoping not, I'm rolling the dice!
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Apr 12, 2017 05:31
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Badger of Basra posted:Income is $3000/mo after taxes and pension deductions. CreditKarma says the things lowering my score are credit utilization (too high), credit history (not enough of it - 6 months according to them), and total accounts (too few). An anecdotal idea of what you might expect for credit score. I came to US a year ago started at 0 score, got a prepaid card $2000 limit, paid in full every month, kept balance at new statement usually to under 10% of limit, have 730 credit score after 12 months. The only reporting to the score is my credit card.
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Apr 12, 2017 15:08
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Badger of Basra posted:Income is $3000/mo after taxes and pension deductions. CreditKarma says the things lowering my score are credit utilization (too high), credit history (not enough of it - 6 months according to them), and total accounts (too few). Yeah, you are extremely likely to just be auto-approved for a Discover IT or Citi card. If you want to be really safe, just pay off your balance in full a day or two before the statement posts and then apply for the card a week or two later.
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Apr 12, 2017 15:10
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Looking for recommendations on continuing to improve credit (current 678) and maximize travel benefit. Long story short, I was a dumbass, missed three payments over the last three years and only very recently started checking my credit, seriously managing finances, and considering card benefits while earning a healthy income. Current Credit Factors: -Utilization: 10% ($1,000 of $10,000 - able to pay off this and any credit card utilization immediately) -Payment History: 96.8% (91 of 94) -Derogatory Marks: 0 -Average Credit History: 6yr, 11mon (one account 10yr 1month the other 3 year 9 months) -Total Accounts: 2 -Credit Inquiries: 1 (2.5 years aging) I'd like to get my credit up to a point where I can qualify for the Alaska Signature Card since I have allot of miles already in my Alaska Mileage account and am able to spend enough on discretionary expenses to effectively cover personal travel with miles. In order to ramp up my score quickly so I can qualify, but not get too many hard-checks, what's my best course of action here? Open a secured credit card to increase the frequency of payments and improve payment history more quickly without drawing hard checks? Income is averaging $12k/month for the year after taxes and retirement savings. Fixed expenses at $2,500/month, $7,000 to savings/investing, and $2,500/month in discretionary spending (you can't take it with you...). Anyone got suggestions on the best way to boost credit, secure Alaska signature card, and not get too many credit inquiries so that I can have good flexibility for potential home loan check in the next two years?
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Apr 14, 2017 06:56
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KaiserKarl posted:Looking for recommendations on continuing to improve credit (current 678) and maximize travel benefit. Long story short, I was a dumbass, missed three payments over the last three years and only very recently started checking my credit, seriously managing finances, and considering card benefits while earning a healthy income. What are your two accounts? That is, what card(s) do you have already?
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Apr 14, 2017 07:13
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astral posted:What are your two accounts? That is, what card(s) do you have already? Old is a BofA BankAmericard and the newer one is a BofA Travel Rewards. I was young a dumb.
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Apr 14, 2017 07:27
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KaiserKarl posted:Old is a BofA BankAmericard and the newer one is a BofA Travel Rewards. I was young a dumb. How late were the missed payments? 30d? e: And how recent was the last one? astral fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 07:35
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astral posted:How late were the missed payments? 30d? All 30d (7/2016, 8/2015, and 9/2014)
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Apr 14, 2017 07:42
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KaiserKarl posted:Old is a BofA BankAmericard and the newer one is a BofA Travel Rewards. I was young a dumb. KaiserKarl posted:All 30d (7/2016, 8/2015, and 9/2014) I think at this point you might be good to get a non-secured card. BofA might be a bit leery about extending you much, if any, additional credit, but you could probably shift credit with a reconsideration call. You'd need an approval of at least 5k to get the Alaska Visa Signature; they're notorious for approving people for less than 5k instead, which means you'd get Alaska Visa Platinum with the worse benefits. My personal recommendations, though: 1) Look into writing BofA what's called a "goodwill letter". Basically you'd explain whatever hardships or circumstances led to one or more of those late payments, and ask nicely that they remove the negative mark from your report. Having a good recent payment history will help with this, but since you've got one every 11 months or so it might be a harder sell. You can find more info about goodwill letters online. 2) If you haven't already, see if they'll remove one or more of the late marks if you enroll in autopay. If you already have setup autopay, I'd suggest including that in the aforementioned letter as part of how you're making sure something like that doesn't happen again. 3) When you're ready to apply for a new card, make sure you've paid your balances down to a good utilization (I'd suggest letting one card report 0% and the other ~10%) before the statements cut. Then about a week later (giving those low statement balances a chance to report to the CRAs), apply for the card(s) you've decided on. 4) Consider Chase bank for your next card. Being approved for a new line of credit will help your score more than just shifting lines around with BofA. Chase has some really solid travel cards, and you might be able to swing one of them: the Chase Sapphire Preferred. You can read more about the benefits here. Although Alaska isn't a transfer partner for ultimate rewards, they're still some of the most flexible points out there with the CSP - you're able to transfer them 1:1 to their partner airlines and hotels, redeeming them as cash at 1c per point, or spending them on their travel portal where each point buys 1.25c of travel. The trip delay reimbursement and the trip cancellation/interruption insurance that the card offers are fantastic as well. You're currently at the lower end of scores for approvals for the CSP from what I remember reading about, but the keyword there is approvals - there should be a pretty decent chance, especially if your score goes up from getting any lates removed or if it goes up a little bit from any improved utilization. Failing that, you could apply for a Freedom or Freedom Unlimited to help further build up your score/relationship with Chase Bank. If you time things right, you could start early on a weekday, make a first application (CSP) -> call the Chase reconsideration line the same day if your application goes to pending or is immediately denied -> if reconsideration fails, a second application on the same day (Freedom or Freedom Unlimited), and the hard pulls from the applications would get combined instead of stacking up against you. If for some reason none of those cards get approved and reconsideration fails, you almost certainly could get approved for the Slate, which is their rebuilder/balance transfer card. Sidenote: If you do go for the CSP, Freedom, or Freedom Unlimited, I'd recommend seeing if any of your friends or family have any of those cards, as they can score a bonus for referring you for whichever of those they have. Don't let that guide your decision though. e: all that and I forgot to say Good luck! astral fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 08:36
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astral posted:I think at this point you might be good to get a non-secured card. BofA might be a bit leery about extending you much, if any, additional credit, but you could probably shift credit with a reconsideration call. You'd need an approval of at least 5k to get the Alaska Visa Signature; they're notorious for approving people for less than 5k instead, which means you'd get Alaska Visa Platinum with the worse benefits. Thank you very much for the detailed recommendations! I think i'll probably see if I bump up to 700 in the next couple of months (failing that go with the same day reconsideration), push for CSP, and then ride that until I'm up above 750 for the Alaska VSC.
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Apr 14, 2017 16:06
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pig slut lisa posted:I just applied for my second ever Amex BGR Business card with no lifetime limitation language. Reading reports online, it seems pretty certain that my 75,000 MR will post...but will they get clawed back 2 months later? Here's hoping not, I'm rolling the dice!
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Apr 15, 2017 02:49
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Pleasantly surprised to see the full $99 annual fee on my recently closed Chase SWA Premier card be refunded. Opened it in January and got my companion pass a few weeks ago (between that card and the Business SWA). Always like it when the companies make it too easy and free to accomplish this stuff. Well, I haven't yet closed my business card so don't know if that'll also be refunded.
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Apr 15, 2017 12:03
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Small White Dragon posted:Where's this offer? Is it targeted? Yes, targeted. I received a notification on my online account which currently has three personal cards and formerly had the BGR as well.
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Apr 16, 2017 04:25
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Being able to transfer points to airline programs can get great redemption values but it seems to make it so much more complex to figure out the best way to redeem. Especially if there are transfer delays.
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Apr 16, 2017 15:17
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What's a good use for SkyMiles or AmEx MR points if you want to earn MQM? I'd rather pay out of pocket and get MQM (I'm trying to get Diamond this year) than buy seats on a flight. I just realized I have around 210k skymiles and about 115k mr points and am lazy about using them. I guess I could use them to buy seats for people traveling with me, but was hoping maybe there is something I'm not aware of. Is transferring to SPG worthwhile? I know the points are moved around 1000 -> 333, but I know that SPG points generally seem to be worth a bit more anyway (although I don't know about 3x as much). I wish there was something similar to chase where I can use the points at 1.5x to book flights straight up. I can do pay with miles because I have the Delta Platinum, but that's only 1 cent per point - not too bad though once I exhaust my ultimate rewards points. Vomik fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 20:44
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That's pretty much it, pay with miles or Amex pay with points are both 1c/point for revenue tickets; the only exception is if you get the business platinum, which allows 2c/point for membership rewards redemptions
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Apr 18, 2017 07:04
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I got the Citi AA card, because I'm going to be taking my family on an AA trip this summer, so I figured I'd pay with that, meet the minimum spend, and get our bags free + $100 statement credit on the booking. I also got the Chase Sapphire Preferred to start building up my UR points. I'll meet the minimum spend organically in about two months, at which point I guess I'll get the Ink Preferred card? That would put me at 130k UR points before I make the leap to the CSR. I'm at 3/24 right now and I think that the Ink doesn't count towards 5/24, so I could get the CSR or some other card with a decent sign up bonus and still be fine to get the CSR if they increase the offer again. Am I missing something?
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Apr 18, 2017 14:16
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Does anyone know if you get a pre-approved offer through Chase's "Selected for You" / "Your Offers" section on your account, if it bypasses the 24 month rule for signup bonuses? I'm reading that it DOES bypass the 5/24 rule, but unclear about the bonuses. I've got a CSP 50k offer, but already got the bonus last year. Edit: Upon reading the fine print, it looks like you cannot get the bonus even if the previous bonus you got did not have the 24 month language.
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Apr 18, 2017 14:23
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If you got the bonus for the CSR, can you get the bonus for CSP? I actually got a CSP first and then hosed up the spend and didn't get the bonus... Downgraded the CSP to a CFU once I got th CSR, and just recently got an offer for 50k UR from a CSP and I'm wondering if it's worth applying for.
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Apr 18, 2017 23:56
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ohgodwhat posted:If you got the bonus for the CSR, can you get the bonus for CSP? I actually got a CSP first and then hosed up the spend and didn't get the bonus... Downgraded the CSP to a CFU once I got th CSR, and just recently got an offer for 50k UR from a CSP and I'm wondering if it's worth applying for. Yes, they're different products.
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Apr 19, 2017 00:16
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No Butt Stuff posted:I got the Citi AA card, because I'm going to be taking my family on an AA trip this summer, so I figured I'd pay with that, meet the minimum spend, and get our bags free + $100 statement credit on the booking. The Ink counts towards 5/24 as Chase knows you got it. The same applies to any business card from Chase or any business cards that show up on your credit report.
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Apr 19, 2017 00:52
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US Bank is coming out with an interesting new premium travel card next month.
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Apr 19, 2017 02:52
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asur posted:The Ink counts towards 5/24 as Chase knows you got it. The same applies to any business card from Chase or any business cards that show up on your credit report. From what I've been reading on Reddit chase business cards don't count toward 5/24 but chase can deny you one if you're over 5/24 via other cards. Also Chase does not report business cards to consumer credit unless you're super delinquent.
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Apr 19, 2017 10:35
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Hi there. I'm looking into getting my first credit card. I've been using a Chase checking account for the past eight or so years and they have this new free credit score checking thing so I tried it out. My credit score is 548 according to them, I have zero credit history, and a debt of $60 dollars with "22 Missed Payments". I have no idea what I'd qualify for or how to go about this since I've never really looked into credit cards or anything like that but you need them to properly adult. I'd appreciate any and all help with this since I like seeing numbers going up.
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Apr 19, 2017 11:34
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Skoll posted:Hi there. What did you miss 22 payments on? The best way to build your credit is to pay off all of your debt on time, wait for the delinquent payments to fall off your record, and get a secured credit card (Discover Secured is usually the easiest to get) and pay it off. Since you already have missed payments, the only way to build it up is to pay your debts on time and wait it out. It will go up over time.
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Apr 19, 2017 14:02
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Skoll posted:Hi there. You do have a credit history then, 22 missed payments. That's why your score is so low. You're going to have to rebuild from that and be pretty limited in the meantime.
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Apr 19, 2017 15:55
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Thoguh posted:You do have a credit history then, 22 missed payments. That's why your score is so low. You're going to have to rebuild from that and be pretty limited in the meantime. I have absolutely no idea from what then. I've never had a credit card or anything before and I mainly deal in cash for almost everything. I never buy something unless I can pay for it outright, etc etc.
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Apr 19, 2017 16:02
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Skoll posted:I have absolutely no idea from what then. I've never had a credit card or anything before and I mainly deal in cash for almost everything. I never buy something unless I can pay for it outright, etc etc. My score was about where yours is several years ago after I defaulted on my first credit card for $3k plus whatever interest and fees they tacked on. I also had a defaulted loan of like $10k. I applied for a Kohls card for some reason and was approved. I only used it a couple times and still have it. A year later I got a First National Bank of Omaha card, it had a $19 annual fee, but whatever. Now I have a score in the 700's and it is going to get higher soon when those 2 negative events drop off (it has been over 7 years, but they still show up in the negative section explaining my FICO score). I have like 5 cards now and always pay off the balance every month, plus get cash back and sign up bonuses. Basically, try to apply for a store card just to get some credit history, or a secured card like others have mentioned. e; out of curiosity, since he only owes $60 compared to several thousand would that make his score go up quicker, or do they only care about non payments, not the amounts? Michael Corleone fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 16:14
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Skoll posted:I have absolutely no idea from what then. I've never had a credit card or anything before and I mainly deal in cash for almost everything. I never buy something unless I can pay for it outright, etc etc. Get your actual credit reports. If it's actually not real, dispute it. Best case scenario, you end up with no credit history. You'll still need a secured card. It will take time to get to the point where you're in a place to take advantage of credit cards with sign up bonuses and car loans that don't cost as much in interest as they do principal monthly, but you can get there. I had a score of 540 or so 8 years ago. All of my bad accounts have now fallen off. For two years the only credit I had was a secured card with a 250 dollar limit from my bank. After those two years, they issued me a new card that wasn't secured with a $16k limit for some reason. I'm on my third mortgage now, and don't really have any trouble with credit any more. I think my score was at 780 when I grabbed my last Citi card. I'm sure it'll drop some, although my utilization is next to nothing, which may help in the long run. Don't get discouraged, just start slogging in the right direction. For you, that direction is to get those credit reports at annualcreditreport.com, find the information about the account, and dispute it with those agencies. They should investigate it and may end up removing a bogus account from your file. Look for a student card or a secured card AFTER that.
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Apr 19, 2017 16:22
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Skoll posted:I have absolutely no idea from what then. I've never had a credit card or anything before and I mainly deal in cash for almost everything. I never buy something unless I can pay for it outright, etc etc. You should pull your credit reports and see what specifically is causing this. With a debt of only $60 that you don't know about there's a good chance you can dispute it and get it dropped from your report, or it could be a mistake. annualcreditreport.com is the official government sanctioned site where you can get your reports from all three bureaus once a year. CreditKarma.com is nice too, you get the reports from 2/3 bureaus for free and updates are available weekly. 22 missed payments is extremely bad for your credit, your credit score is going to remain low for as long as that is on your reports. EDIT: I am a dumbass who posted the wrong official government link. It is now corrected. THF13 fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 16:28
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I live pretty frugally so a "low credit limit" won't bother me since I try not to do anything outside my means. What would be the best secured card to get in this case, with the lowest fees, etc? I'm in the middle of a move right now but once I finish that I'll track down what I supposedly owe money on. The only thing I could even think of is a hospital bill but I was under the impression those don't show up on credit reports.
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Apr 19, 2017 16:30
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Skoll posted:Thanks for the advice, guys. I live pretty frugally so a "low credit limit" won't bother me since I try not to do anything outside my means. Discover is unquestionably the best. It has no annual or monthly fee, earns rewards and will eventually convert to a standard credit card (IE: they return your deposit). I've seen redditors with bad credit get denied for this so I think they might targeting it for people without credit history and not people with bad credit. I'd still apply for it and call their reconsideration line if they deny you though. The only two things you really need though are a card that reports to all three bureaus and a card with no annual or monthly fee. Capital One is a good second choice if you can't get Discover's. But you should really, really, really pull your credit reports and see if you can get that debt and its missed payments dropped.
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Apr 19, 2017 16:45
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