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Leave the gas cap off for about 10 minutes, turn the key to the on position, listen for the fuel pump priming.
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Apr 22, 2017 08:45
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Not sure this is the best place to ask but: I'm getting rid of my 92 Camry. There is something wrong with it and I've spent too much trying to fix it. I just want it to be gone. So I was considering donating it to some foundation, like you hear about. My concern is all my Googling talks about "It's so easy, it's so fast" so now I am wondering what is the catch. Is there something to be aware of? Or is it really win-win?
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Apr 22, 2017 14:37
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Magnetic North posted:Not sure this is the best place to ask but: I'm getting rid of my 92 Camry. There is something wrong with it and I've spent too much trying to fix it. I just want it to be gone. So I was considering donating it to some foundation, like you hear about. My concern is all my Googling talks about "It's so easy, it's so fast" so now I am wondering what is the catch. They tow it way, you get a letter thanking you for your donation for your tax records. That's it.
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Apr 22, 2017 14:37
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Check the fuse for the fuel pump, verify it is actually petrol and not diesel, smear the windshield with garlic to fend off evil. Check fuel filter, make sure there are no puddles under the vehicle. If the fuel filter got replaced incorrectly at some point a little bit of air might be bleeding into the pump. Otherwise to verify a fuel pump is even working I suppose you would disconnect the output on it and see what happens?
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Apr 22, 2017 15:28
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Oh there might be a relay that conked out.
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Apr 22, 2017 15:30
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Magnetic North posted:Not sure this is the best place to ask but: I'm getting rid of my 92 Camry. There is something wrong with it and I've spent too much trying to fix it. I just want it to be gone. So I was considering donating it to some foundation, like you hear about. My concern is all my Googling talks about "It's so easy, it's so fast" so now I am wondering what is the catch. Most cars are worth $200-$300 for the scrap metal alone. Call around to scrapyards and ask what the going rate is for your car. If it runs, drive it and collect the bounty. If it doesn't run, have it towed to the scrap yard for $100 and collect the bounty less the cost of tow. You can still be philanthropic and donate the car to a charity of your choice and they will either have kids wrench on it for fun or they will part it out/scrap it and collect the bounty.
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Apr 22, 2017 16:46
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Most cars are worth $200-$300 for the scrap metal alone. Call around to scrapyards and ask what the going rate is for your car. If it runs, drive it and collect the bounty. If it doesn't run, have it towed to the scrap yard for $100 and collect the bounty less the cost of tow. I sold my dead 1994 Escort wagon to LKQ for $350. I would have gotten another $50 if I could have driven it to their yard. Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Apr 22, 2017 |
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Apr 22, 2017 17:01
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It tubs our that the anti squeak goo is pretty critical when doing pads and rotors. It's always fun to take a job apart again to fix what you forgot :0
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Apr 22, 2017 17:24
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport (3.5l) w/ 140k that has some issue. It has a nasty resonant wobble in what seems like the passenger-side front wheel from 45-65mph. The wobble/vibration only happens when the transmission is in gear. The wobble seems to match wheel speed, not engine speed. When hard on the accelerator, the wobble begins around 30mph and is at its maximum around 55mph, then gets less, and there is nothing noticeable at 70mph. If I put the car in neutral, there's no wobble as it either accelerates up from 45-60, nor down from 60-40. It has recently gotten worse, and is now squeaking/chirping for a minute or so until it warms up. I put that corner up on jack stands, and the wheel doesn't rock any. The tie rod ends appear to be in good condition. The CV axle didn't move or wobble. The shock seemed normal, but there's no more rubber in the cup holding the bottom of the spring. There's sometimes a clunking as I turn a corner, and when the clunk happens, the wobble is worse for a bit. Followup: I took it into the shop. Both CV joints and axles were completely thrashed. There's also no rubber left in the subframe bushings in the front end. The subframe bushings are what's causing the clunk. Unfortunately, those aren't stocked, so I ordered a set from rockauto and will do them myself.
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Apr 23, 2017 00:42
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You're name is fitting for dealing with a mid 90's 3.5L chrysler and not just burning it
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Apr 23, 2017 02:32
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Memento posted:Friend has a 2007 Ford Mondeo, petrol 2.0, no start. Cranks fine, I've tested spark (fine), what's the best way to test fuel pressure? I have essentially zero tools right now, maybe a set of pliers and some screwdrivers. I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump but I'd like to be 100% before I get another one and slap it in. working on old fashioned diagnostics here, you could just spray some easy-start/starting fluid into the intake while you crank it over and see if it briefly runs. If so then you definitely have a lack of fuel issue. If this is the case then you could check if the fuel pump is actually running - There is probably an access hatch to get at the top of the tank. The fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on to build some pressure up. See if you can hear/feel it doing this as someone turns the key. Check for voltage with a multimeter (or just a spare bulb and some wire if you don't have a multimeter). You could also crack off a fuel line somewhere and then see if fuel comes out under pressure when you try and crank it, or pull an injector (then leave it plugged into the loom and put it into a jar or something while cranking and see if it squirts any fuel). to check how much fuel pressure you have your going to need a gauge.
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Apr 23, 2017 12:34
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Stupid question: How hosed am I? I bought a boat and a trailer, which the previous owner informed me that the surge brakes were inoperable. It looks like at some point in the past someone disconnected the master cylinder so it would never build pressure. The actuator is a Dico Surg-O-Matic model 5. I'm taking a look at it today to see what I'll need to do to fix it. It looks like I might be able to disassemble the coupler/actuator and remove the old master cylinder. From peeping in the hole, the master cylinder looks similar to the Model 6 (can't find any references to the Model 5 anywhere). Failing that, is it possible for me to replace the Actuator as a unit. It looks like the 'fixed half' is welded to the trailer frame. Is there any standardization in the fixed parts? Or am I going to have to cut and grind, and weld a new actuator in? 
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Apr 23, 2017 21:18
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Boys who love boys
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Saab 9-5 2006 1.9TiD Sorry this might be a bit european although I thought americans were now at the forefront of dealing with our newly modern and wonderful diesel engines. Of ten years ago. Can I just say Diesel Particulate Filter. p1901 error code all the bloody time on the ODB reader thing. This has been ongoing for several years now. Going to the garage and paying them to force a regen which I find ridiculous. Sure, a classic car not liking the way you drive it and acting accordingly but a £30k new executive car that can't do a pretty standard uk lifestyle without needing expensive counseling? the car is worth next to nothing now, but its immaculate and I refuse to lose this battle. DPF, EGR valve, the differential pressure sensor and all the pipework I can reasonably understand as relevant have been replaced. For new. Within 500miles it goes tits up again. Took a bunch of bits apart, like no effort bits and it works again! for another 200miles and bugger me its gone again. Following my dad home from the pub I realise I can't keep up. Pull over, restart and it works again, for 2mins then back into limp home mode. At this point just kill me. All I can find online is 8 year old forum posts advising to drill holes in the DPF. Sure... but I bought a whole new one that worked fine for the first 100k miles so I don't want to drill holes in it and just no. Lets actually solve the issue. Also a saab specialist have remapped and updated all the computery bits a couple of times to no avail. Other than that one reset left the car seemingly completely unable to accelerate anyway, so I suppose solving the issue. I'm totally calm. I can reset the fault log that turns off the limp home mode using my phone and bluetooth ODB, but it goes wrong again every 2minutes. Except sometimes it doesn't and I get a couple hundred miles no problem. I'm thinking I'm just going to gaffer an old phone under the dash that fires the bluetooth reset code every 30 seconds so I can carry on regardless. Any thoughts? Cheers.
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Apr 23, 2017 23:12
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Personally I would set aside 1 hour on the first Sunday of every month for a bloody good run. Take it to the coast and back, or up and down your nearest motorway for a few junctions, with some motorhead on the radio. Diesels really don't like the city commute and you need to blow away the cobwebs on a regular basis. You can also stick a can of BG44 in the tank at the same time and give it a clean out.
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Apr 23, 2017 23:35
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spog posted:Personally I would set aside 1 hour on the first Sunday of every month for a bloody good run. Thanks for the response and yeah that lines up exactly with what I've been told. I'm just... a bit exasperated... Really thats all we've got? Thrash the poo poo out of it every now again? Hour long motorway runs in third gear. I mean so thats diesel cars done then yeah? As you might imagine Ive read up on the issue a bit and I understand that the car needs to maintain a high enough temperature for a long enough period for the brain to decide to burn off the... stuff. But thing is the car was fine for 100k. I've replaced everything that seems like its related to this and yet still I can only manage maybe 200miles before it goes again. I've just paid a local garage for a regen with the new dpf and its gone again, on about 300miles. It just seems like there must be something else? Why is the internet not full of morons like me writing posts like this?
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Apr 23, 2017 23:54
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They probably drive their vehicles properly. 
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Apr 24, 2017 02:14
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spog posted:Personally I would set aside 1 hour on the first Sunday of every month for a bloody good run. Historically known as an "Italian tune-up"
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Apr 24, 2017 03:17
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NotJustANumber99 posted:Thanks for the response and yeah that lines up exactly with what I've been told. I'm just... a bit exasperated... PainterofCrap posted:Historically known as an "Italian tune-up" Ah, no you don't need to give it an ITU and go bouncing off the rev limiter:you just need to get the engine up to temp and stay there for at least 30 mins to let the system burn off all the crap. It might also trigger the regen cycle which needs a hot engine and up to 15mins to complete. That said, I always think that an occasional screaming junction pull-out is good for the engine. As to why: well, I guess they made the assumption that people who bought diesels would be doing longer runs, since the economics for buying a new diesel only made sense if you were doing 12k per year. quote:It just seems like there must be something else? Why is the internet not full of morons like me writing posts like this? You are far from a moron. Less than a month ago: http://metro.co.uk/2017/03/30/livid-range-rover-owner-vandalises-own-car-then-dumps-it-outside-dealership-6542556/  quote:A Range Rover has been covered in graffiti, dumped outside a Mayfair car dealership and its owners threatened to set it on fire. All because the owner of the £70,000 car claims the vehicle is showing warning lights telling him not to drive the car.
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Apr 24, 2017 08:44
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ITT: people that don't understand DEF burnoff cycles
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Apr 24, 2017 08:57
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I'm back with more stupid driving stick questions. I'm starting to get the hang of it and have made a bunch of trips now without stalling or seriously loving up. The one piece I'm having an issue with is smoothly coming to a stop at a red light or a stop sign. I can do it pretty easily by just shifting into neutral and using the brake but a lot of people say that's the wrong way, and you need to sequentially downshift so that you can accelerate if needed. I can't figure out how to get smooth shifts down while I'm braking. Let's say I'm doing 50km/h in 3rd and I've got a red light coming up a fair distance away (and for argument's sake, let's say I have no idea if it's going to turn green before I get there). In an automatic car I would keep my speed at 50 until I was fairly close, and then I would start braking until I came to a stop. In the car I've been learning on I usually upshift to 3rd at around 40km/h, so if I downshifted to 2nd at 50 I think I'd be revving pretty high. If I just keep it in 3rd and then start braking and then try to sneak a downshift in at the same time it feels like I'm trying to do a weird dance with my feet (brake, clutch, bad blip attempt, more brake, clutch out, car shudders disapprovingly). What's the right way to do this?
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Apr 24, 2017 20:07
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In my car, I can keep in 3rd gear until I'm slowed to about 15-20mph. So I usually just use 3rd as long as I can, then straight to neutral for the remainder of the stop. If I have a lot of notice, I might squeeze a down shift into 2nd, but this would need to be a pretty leisurely deceleration and stop. If a light turns on me too quick or I don't have enough warning for other stops, gently caress down shifting. Brake and clutch in, stop in neutral. That said, being good at down shifting quickly helps with all of this, and mine has improved since watching this charming fellow explain his practice method in detail: https://youtu.be/3Kdhe6vwDv8
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Apr 24, 2017 20:17
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prom candy posted:I'm back with more stupid driving stick questions. I'm starting to get the hang of it and have made a bunch of trips now without stalling or seriously loving up. The one piece I'm having an issue with is smoothly coming to a stop at a red light or a stop sign. I can do it pretty easily by just shifting into neutral and using the brake but a lot of people say that's the wrong way, and you need to sequentially downshift so that you can accelerate if needed. I can't figure out how to get smooth shifts down while I'm braking. Let's say I'm doing 50km/h in 3rd and I've got a red light coming up a fair distance away (and for argument's sake, let's say I have no idea if it's going to turn green before I get there). In an automatic car I would keep my speed at 50 until I was fairly close, and then I would start braking until I came to a stop. In the car I've been learning on I usually upshift to 3rd at around 40km/h, so if I downshifted to 2nd at 50 I think I'd be revving pretty high. If I just keep it in 3rd and then start braking and then try to sneak a downshift in at the same time it feels like I'm trying to do a weird dance with my feet (brake, clutch, bad blip attempt, more brake, clutch out, car shudders disapprovingly). If I'm coming up to a light, I'll put the clutch in and coast, using the brake as necessary. I also downshift to the appropriate gear as I slow in case I need to get started again before stopping. There isn't any "right" way to do it in that it doesn't matter. Do whatever works for you. When I'm sitting at a light, I try to put it in neutral and let the clutch out. It saves a lot of fatigue in my left leg. Shoving it back into first and getting going takes about 1/2 a second after the light changes.
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Apr 24, 2017 20:36
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So you're moving the shifter into the appropriate gears as you slow down but you're keeping the clutch in the whole time? So if you needed to you could clutch out and accelerate but you're not using engine braking to slow the car?
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Apr 24, 2017 20:45
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prom candy posted:So you're moving the shifter into the appropriate gears as you slow down but you're keeping the clutch in the whole time? So if you needed to you could clutch out and accelerate but you're not using engine braking to slow the car? Generally, yes. Engine braking helps a lot when you're going downhill, but the load on your brakes on flat terrain isn't that much. They can take it. Engine braking matters a lot on long downhill stretches, and I use it frequently then.
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Apr 24, 2017 20:48
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Just put it into neutral then instead of wearing out the throw out bearing
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Apr 24, 2017 20:50
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The Ferret King posted:That said, being good at down shifting quickly helps with all of this, and mine has improved since watching this charming fellow explain his practice method in detail: This is really good, thanks!
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Apr 24, 2017 21:03
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I just leave it in whatever gear it was in until I'm closing in on the engine's idle speed, at which point I'll pop it in neutral and stop the rest of the way. It's really not hard to just grab another gear if you need to start accelerating instead.
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Apr 24, 2017 22:57
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That's what I do too. Plus by downshifting all the time, you'd be putting a lot of extra wear on your clutch.
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Apr 25, 2017 00:44
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Deteriorata posted:Generally, yes. Engine braking helps a lot when you're going downhill, but the load on your brakes on flat terrain isn't that much. They can take it. I always thought it was for curvy downhill decents during slippery conditions as it prevents wheel lock up while maintaining power to the wheels through corners helping keep controll.
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Apr 25, 2017 03:00
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Preoptopus posted:I always thought it was for curvy downhill decents during slippery conditions as it prevents wheel lock up while maintaining power to the wheels through corners helping keep controll. It does that, too. You can also overheat your brakes by using them too much going downhill - then they stop working, which is a problem when you're going downhill. Engine braking helps both. It doesn't have to be one or the other.
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Apr 25, 2017 03:10
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2001 toyota celica 2zz-ge so im thinking of removing my power steering pump, however my brother has told me doing so is idiotic since the engine was designed to have power steering and will break something eventually if i remove it. so should i remove it and put on a smaller belt or keep it? Status_Surge fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 05:25
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Is there a manual steering rack that you can swap on in place of the power one? Alternatively, is the power steering rack on that car known to be one that can be "depowered" (like the Miata's steering rack) without causing long-term wear? On the engine side, as long as you can route the belt in a way that maintains enough belt wrap around other accessories, there's nothing wrong with it. You might need to add an idler, though.
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Apr 25, 2017 06:03
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Status_Surge posted:2001 toyota celica 2zz-ge Your steering will be far heavier than it would be had the car been designed without power steering - you're still pushing the power steering fluid around in the rack. And as IoC said, you may be causing extra wear on the steering rack. The engine won't give two shits. Why were you considering removing it?
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Apr 25, 2017 06:17
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Im not sure if theres a manual steering rack or not but i will check into it, I'll also check into depowering the steering rack as well. I'm considering removing it just to get a tiny bit more power and weight reduction, and since i haven't swapped my engine yet i figure i might as well remove what i don't need before dropping it into the celica.
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Apr 25, 2017 08:17
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Status_Surge posted:Im not sure if theres a manual steering rack or not but i will check into it, I'll also check into depowering the steering rack as well. A quick look says the pump weighs 7lbs: taking a dump and wearing a lighter jacket would have the same effect and you can still park the car without gorilla forearms.
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Apr 25, 2017 08:37
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If the car was ever offered with a manual steering gear then there will most likely be a different sized belt available too. Manual steering can be a lot of fun, but also a pain in the dick if it's your daily.
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Apr 25, 2017 12:01
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Ugh, I clipped my tire on a low brick wall that I didn't see as I pulled into a very tight space at work.   For general scale:  I measured it with vernier calipers and it's 1.5mm at its thickest point. In case the photo doesn't make it apparent, it's pretty much only on the rim protector part of the tire. 4 hours later it appears to be holding air just fine and it survived 60km/h without any noise or vibrations. Is this gonna be safe to drive on or should I see about repair/replacement? I probably would have considered replacing the tires but they've still got a lot of tread on them and it's a AWD Subaru so I would need a full set unless I can find a place that does tire shaving but preliminary searches don't look good on that front.
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Apr 25, 2017 14:12
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RillAkBea posted:1.5mm. I wouldn't worry. That part of the tire is usually pretty thick and designed to handle curbing. I'd just watch it the next few weeks, and if nothing changes not worry about it.
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Apr 25, 2017 18:05
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My wife's 2009 Toyota Matrix needs new pads and rotors up front. I think I have just about everything I need for tools, and the Hayne's manual is in the mail. I've never done automotive disc brakes, but am handy and have done a few motorcycle brake rebuilds. Anything I should know up front? Also, do I need a special socket for the spindle nut, or is it likely to just be a bigass 12-point?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:20
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You shouldn't need to touch the axle nut. There should be two bolts holding the caliper to the slide pins (with flat spots machined on the slide pins to hold with an open-end wrench while you loosen the bolts) and then another two bolts holding the caliper carrier to the spindle itself. Remove the caliper & carrier and the rotor can be removed.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:24
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