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Cleaning out the garage, I just found 4 window rollers I forgot I had. I no longer have a Saab, who wants them?
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Feb 18, 2017 15:40
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spog posted:The door switch needs replacing? West SAAB Story posted:Also suggesting testing the switch or getting a cheap Chinese Tech2 to watch the result before you tear into the door. It of course makes the most sense that it would be the sensor itself, especially considering that I can affect it by manipulating the door, but I think some rudimentary testing would be good first. What are the best options for cheap Chinese Tech2? I'd be interested for other purposes as well.
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Feb 21, 2017 03:18
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I was looking at all the cheap Saabs on the local Craigslist and thinking "Hey one of these might be neat." Thanks thread, you talked me out of it.
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Feb 21, 2017 03:20
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PCOS Bill posted:I was looking at all the cheap Saabs on the local Craigslist and thinking "Hey one of these might be neat." They are neat cars and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat because I'm an insane person
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Feb 21, 2017 03:52
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SCA Enthusiast posted:They are neat cars and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat That and they're super cheap since they depreciate sooooooo quickly. I've already told my wife that if we have to replace my Saab, it's going to be another Saab since A) they're cheap and B) I can pretty much do all the work on them.
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Feb 21, 2017 11:32
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SCA Enthusiast posted:It of course makes the most sense that it would be the sensor itself, especially considering that I can affect it by manipulating the door, but I think some rudimentary testing would be good first. If the switches are identical on both sides, swap them over and see if the error message moves to the other door. You could try adding a continuity tester to the switch, close the door and bounce up and down on the car to see if the switch state changes while the door is closed. quote:If it's anything like a 9K then there is a small plastic sensor on the door locking mechanism and the "reed" inside has failed. I am sure that I have seen something on here about them and the chances are that you have to buy the whole mechanism rather than just the sensor. The alternative is to connect the two wires (black?) together to give a false "door closed" signal, but obviously this is a safety issue and will not alert the driver when the door is open. It is however, a good way to tell if it is a sensor problem.
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Feb 21, 2017 12:34
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spog posted:If the switches are identical on both sides, swap them over and see if the error message moves to the other door. That's a really good idea, thanks!
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Feb 21, 2017 15:54
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JayKay posted:That and they're super cheap since they depreciate sooooooo quickly. I'm selling a 2006 9-3 2.0T with 114,000 miles on it for a  $2000 (OBO). Great little car, under-drove it, I replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it would start mis-firing when you redline the turbo. I'm in San Diego if anyone is interested. Just needs new shocks on the front, good to go. White on gray. Someone please buy it, I do not have enough space in front of my house and it's a pain in the rear end to keep moving it every 3 days Duccy fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Oct 5, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2017 21:38
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Regarding my previous door sensor thing I found out that its because the plastic covering the bracket that the door latches to is cracked and splitting, giving the door juuuust enough play to flip the switch on and off. So that should be pretty easy to work around. Next task is finding out why the dash will no longer illuminate the portion of the speedo above 90 mph, as if it was in night panel constantly.
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Mar 19, 2017 21:30
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Regarding my previous door sensor thing I found out that its because the plastic covering the bracket that the door latches to is cracked and splitting, giving the door juuuust enough play to flip the switch on and off. So that should be pretty easy to work around. My dash does this too, I figure the bulb in the section is burnt out. It's between 70 and 90 though
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Mar 20, 2017 03:49
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I'm pretty sure mine is more than a burned bulb because the swath from 90-max is too large to be just one. I have another bulb burned out in the tach and it's just a dim spot. That said as I'm typing this I realize they probably put a barrier at that point on the dial so there would be no bleed from the other speedometer lights. Eh, how often do I go faster than 90 at night anyway?
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Mar 20, 2017 04:12
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My 2007 Saab 93 is always burning through headlight bulbs. They are the halogen bulbs. My wife drives a ton so I'm replacing one every month. Are there any bulbs out there that can stand up to the daytime running torture? Also I have front suspension knocking. What is common for light knocking when moving over small bumps or weight transfer? I can also make it knock when hand bouncing the car. Front right side. I tried to identify it but spring tension makes it impossible to narrow down when I have it off ground. A arms look ok. No movement in the tires when shaking horizontal and vertical. My wife has taken it to a shop and they haven't found it. Also for those wondering this is the car that was scrubbing through right side tires and vibrating. Apparently the wife took it to an alignment shop for the 3rd time with tire replacement and things have been fine for months now. Bad alignment after bad alignment kept tearing up tires. It's like nobody knows what they are doing.
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Apr 15, 2017 18:50
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Can't you pull a fuse to make the headlight switch actually work so you can turn off daytime running lights? But I know that works for 2000-2004 at least...
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Apr 15, 2017 19:45
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Aeka 2.0 posted:My 2007 Saab 93 is always burning through headlight bulbs. They are the halogen bulbs. My wife drives a ton so I'm replacing one every month. Are there any bulbs out there that can stand up to the daytime running torture? You sure you don't have any cracks in your headlights?
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Apr 15, 2017 20:45
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I will check but everything looks clean when I remove the bulbs. How many hours should a bulb last? She puts a minimum of 15 hours a week on them.
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Apr 16, 2017 01:45
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The cheapos I got last week said 100 hours
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Apr 16, 2017 03:27
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I will check but everything looks clean when I remove the bulbs. How many hours should a bulb last? She puts a minimum of 15 hours a week on them. Even that should be no problem. I dd'd a Saab 9-5 wagon for 4 years commuting 100 miles a day minimum and only had to change bulbs 3 times.
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Apr 16, 2017 04:42
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No cracks either. Perhaps I will switch brands. Also what coolant goes in a 2007?
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Apr 16, 2017 17:39
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I'd bet that the front end knocking is just sway bar end links. If you take the wheels off you can probably rattle them by hand.
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Apr 16, 2017 18:25
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I'd bet that the front end knocking is just sway bar end links. If you take the wheels off you can probably rattle them by hand. Yeah, I think that would be it. I'll check when I can.
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Apr 17, 2017 06:57
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Hi Saab thread! Is there anybody left here with pre-GM Saabs? I started working on my 99T again this weekend and made some new metal wheelarches to replace the filler and rust that was there before. 
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Apr 24, 2017 11:03
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Tomarse posted:Hi Saab thread! Is there anybody left here with pre-GM Saabs? If there were no limiting factors such as space and reason, I would surely have a couple of old Saabs. Would not mind a 1980's 99 or 900 Turbo. Right now however, I'm fixing a friends 2003 9-5 (wagon, 2.3t automatic). The rear brakes need a complete overhaul, they were seized up and rusted to poo poo after sitting parked all winter. I got all the other bits that need replacing (rotors, pads, shoes, some mounting bits), except the hand brake expanders. A little 2-piece bracket thing that the wire connects to that pushes the brake shoes apart. Looks like this when it is still made of metal and not oxide and dirt:  Given that that thing always seems to become a rusty non-expanding (or in this case non-contracting) mess, it's surprisingly hard to locate. The one I've found is said to be for 1993-2003 Saab 900 and 9-3 (YS3G), not 9-5, and it's the only type they have. Another place has separate items for 9-5 and 9-3, none of them available, but they are exactly the same price and they share the exact same product image. Does anyone know for sure if these are different between the models? If not, I might take a chance on the 9-3 ones, it's only about $30 for the pair after all.
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Apr 24, 2017 16:12
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ionn posted:Given that that thing always seems to become a rusty non-expanding (or in this case non-contracting) mess, it's surprisingly hard to locate. The one I've found is said to be for 1993-2003 Saab 900 and 9-3 (YS3G), not 9-5, and it's the only type they have. Another place has separate items for 9-5 and 9-3, none of them available, but they are exactly the same price and they share the exact same product image. Maptunparts only specify them as for the 9-5 Mom broke the turbo on her 2000 95 wagon, it was past 28.000 km anyway. It's not a complete wreck yet, it just pisses oil into the exaust and with all the other problems with the car she decided we're scrapping it for parts. I've also decided i'll never get started on fixing my 2000 aero wagon so i'm getting rid of it, it's been in a shed for 2 years or so now.
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Apr 24, 2017 19:29
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underlig posted:https://shop.speedparts.se/sv/prod/9-5-98-10/broms/handbroms/18-6947.html Ooh, I forgot that place existed, thanks. They have the same part listed for 900, 9-3 and 9-5, which I think confirms my suspicion that it's exactly the same part. They even seem to have them in stock, so I'm ordering the stuff from there. I would have thought this part would be a lot easier to find in Sweden, I've seen this seize from rust in more than one Saab so it should be a fairly common thing to replace. Still, the common parts people don't have it apparently.
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Apr 24, 2017 23:39
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Selling this (blew the turbo and got a 2012 GTI), will negotiate via pm/text/email but not in thread. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/6095700060.html Not getting much interest locally, let me know if you have any suggestions for the ad.
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Apr 26, 2017 16:35
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You're gonna want interior shots. I know it's a pain in the rear end. Since you'll prob get Saab people first I'd mention the crankcase ventilation deal too
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Apr 26, 2017 21:54
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ionn posted:If there were no limiting factors such as space and reason, I would surely have a couple of old Saabs. Would not mind a 1980's 99 or 900 Turbo.  quote:Right now however, I'm fixing a friends 2003 9-5 (wagon, 2.3t automatic). The rear brakes need a complete overhaul, they were seized up and rusted to poo poo after sitting parked all winter. I got all the other bits that need replacing (rotors, pads, shoes, some mounting bits), except the hand brake expanders. A little 2-piece bracket thing that the wire connects to that pushes the brake shoes apart. Looks like this when it is still made of metal and not oxide and dirt:  . 2 x front calipers, 2 x discs, front pads and a master cylinder has just cost me £330 . How does this compare to 9-5 bits?The brake backplates are also hosed and I cant find ones for front handbrake vehicles for sale anywhere
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May 7, 2017 23:37
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Tomarse posted:Like this one?: Basically, yes.  Tomarse posted:My brakes were all seized up and rusted to poo poo too Got rear rotors, pads, shoes, mounting kit and those expanders for about €140 total. Calipers seem fine, so not replacing those.
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May 9, 2017 13:24
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1996 900 SE Turbo manual, ~110k miles, needs clutch, about $1k. Worth pursuing?
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May 20, 2017 21:46
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EVERYWHERE 
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1k seems a little steep, honestly, but if its in good shape and runs well I'd be very tempted.
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May 21, 2017 00:43
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SCA Enthusiast posted:1k seems a little steep, honestly, but if its in good shape and runs well I'd be very tempted. False alarm... too many little issues along with the inop clutch (that sounded more like master or slave than cluch proper, but either way, it's a pass...)
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May 21, 2017 00:51
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Regarding the 2003 9-5 2.3t mentioned earlier. Having done the completely seized rear brakes (all of which went just fine, handbrake is happy now), it can now be moved again and I could better access the front to give that a look. Needs new pads and rotors, no biggie. However, it also turned out that one of the wheel bolts on the left front is broken off. Then 19 other bolts were torqued like hell (some local tire shop applying way too many brrrapps when putting the winter tires on last year) but nothing seemed deformed or damaged once I got them off. On the broken one however, I can see little metal spirals of chewed up thread, so I'm fully assuming this broke from overtorquing and likely would be a real motherfucker to get out. Also possible the threads in the hub are damaged. I'll give it a try with some heat and a bolt extractor, but I don't have high hopes for that. The broken part is just inside where the thread starts in the hub, so there is no room to weld anything on there either. However, I saw that used bearing/hub things can be found cheaply, due to all the other 9-5's around being junked. From the looks of it, it's just three bolts on the back where it bolts to the steering knuckle, remove the driveshaft and it's out. Can someone confirm that this is the case? If I don't have to go messing around with disassembling balljoints or tie-rod ends or pressing out bearings, this seems to me like a reasonably simple job and decent way to get around the issue. How much of a hassle is it to change this part out?
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May 21, 2017 08:06
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I did that job on a 2000 9-5 and it wasn't too bad at all. I was a complete novice. This video is relevant. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooWrMnSc4vM Edit: the 2000 Saab is different, so I had to remove the entire steering knuckle and take it to a shop along with the new hub to get pressed out/in. Your job should be considerably easier. ltugo fucked around with this message at 13:50 on May 21, 2017 |
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May 21, 2017 13:48
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https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/08/...ottom-well&_r=0
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Jun 12, 2017 21:36
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I'm no expert, but they don't look very Saab-ish 
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Jun 12, 2017 23:06
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Haha, you dentist-car-driving dicks are doomed. I finally figured out a way to get ahold of a Saab that wouldn't make my friends and family abandon me. I finally registered, insured and drove home my new-to-me 2005 Saab 9-2X Linear. The only complaint I have about it so far is that the VIN is entered as an Aero, which means that someone at the docks probably hosed up filling out the form when it was first imported. It has some bilingual stickers as well, which might just have been removed by the PO on the ancient Subarus I previously gooned around in. All the records got included; the original owner sure got boned when she bought this thing. Next stop, 9000 CSE Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 18, 2017 |
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Jun 18, 2017 23:24
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Last weekend I replaced the wheel bearing and front brakes on the aforementioned 9-5 with barely any hassle at all. So mechanically everything seems fine, but two computer/electronics-related LOLSAABLOL things have popped up. Not sure if they were there before or not. First off, the ABS goes off between about 20 and 50km/h. Whenever you touch the brake there's the typical "rumbling" heard and clearly felt through the pedal. I don't think I committed any violence to the ABS sensor when I was moving the steering knuckle about, but it's possible. It doesn't show any warning lights though, so I'm guessing the sensor isn't completely dead. I did clean out some mud and gunk from the teeth in the sensor ring, but if anything that should improve the signal from that side. If I pull the ABS fuse everything is perfectly fine (except the four warning lights and no speedometer). How does one ascertain what is going on here? Just buy ABS sensors and randomly replace until it's good? Clean the teeth on the other side? Second, the engine has gone into some kind of limp home mode. It's as if I only have 1/3rd throttle available. Driving slowly and carefully it is just like normal, but it's just dead if I want to accelerate more. If I floor it the kickdown takes it to about 4000rpm, and it won't get past that. Getting up to highway speed (on a long uphill onramp) was a challenge, but driving along on the highway at 110-120km/h was just fine. The car has been sitting powerless for a few months, can that have caused it to go into the "throttle body limp home mode" I've heard about? Basically it seems like normally there is a cable going to a position sensor by the throttle body, but it's not physically moving the throttle (which is electronic). It can however apparently "snap in" to directly move it mechanically, and it can then be reset by engaging some spring and cocking it back. Is this limp home mode something that can happen from being unpowered (and trying to restart it on a weak battery)? Would that make it behave in this weak way? Seat Safety Switch posted:the original owner sure got boned when she bought this thing. Isn't that the case for just about any new car? Though SAABs might excel at it. Also, I guess we'll see you in a mid-80's 900 Turbo soon enough.
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Jun 22, 2017 14:33
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ionn posted:Isn't that the case for just about any new car? Though SAABs might excel at it. ionn posted:Also, I guess we'll see you in a mid-80's 900 Turbo soon enough. quote:Nobody could save me from Saab. Wherever I looked, I would find sub-$500 GM-Swedish abominations pulling at my purse strings. Help us, the cars said, we’re weird.
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Jun 22, 2017 14:48
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By the way the dude who owns the 9-5 said he might give it to me, since I spent so much time fixing it for him and more problems just keep showing up. I really don't need more cars, but I somehow like the idea of being subjected to Saab humor once again.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:06
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ionn posted:Second, the engine has gone into some kind of limp home mode. It's as if I only have 1/3rd throttle available. Driving slowly and carefully it is just like normal, but it's just dead if I want to accelerate more. If I floor it the kickdown takes it to about 4000rpm, and it won't get past that. Getting up to highway speed (on a long uphill onramp) was a challenge, but driving along on the highway at 110-120km/h was just fine. The car has been sitting powerless for a few months, can that have caused it to go into the "throttle body limp home mode" I've heard about? Basically it seems like normally there is a cable going to a position sensor by the throttle body, but it's not physically moving the throttle (which is electronic). It can however apparently "snap in" to directly move it mechanically, and it can then be reset by engaging some spring and cocking it back. Stupid question: you aren't still using the fuel that sat in the car for a few months?
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Jun 22, 2017 15:51
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