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scuz posted:Service like "bring it in and they do things to it?" It's not like a dentist check-up where you brush and floss ahead of time. There really isn't anything to do to your car ahead of time aside from clean the interior as best you can to keep whoever does the service from barfing and/or putting a picture of your gross car up on /r/justrolledintotheshop. If this is a recommended service interval (which I'm guessing it is at 50k), just bring it in and let them know that you're bringing it in for its recommended service interval. Apart from the interior clean, I always run a pressure washer over the outside and the wheels before it goes into a garage for anything. If you think I am a nice guy; then it is because a mechanic deserves to have a clean car to work on and not get dirty If you think I am a cynic; it is because it makes it easy to see any damage they do to the bodywork while it is there
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Apr 27, 2017 23:09
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You should make sure to drive the car as long and as hard as possible on one of the hottest days to be sure the tech burns the poo poo out himself. (Don't do this) "hey i just drove in from Phoenix can I get an oil change?" 
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Apr 27, 2017 23:12
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bewbies posted:Thanks for the replies; I do have comprehensive insurance with a $500 deductible; if that won't make my rates rise that probably makes sense. At the very least, your cost will double once you factor in paint. Now factor in the fact that it's faded to some degree, and won't be a perfect match - the body shop will have to blend the rest of the front clip so it's not obvious. There may also be bent metal behind the plastic. It won't cost anything but time to get a body shop to do an estimate. Just do'nt hand over your insurance unless you're ready to make a claim. Now if it winds up being $600 or so for the work, then don't bother with the claim, just handle it out of pocket. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Apr 27, 2017 |
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Apr 27, 2017 23:39
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Stupid question: I moved from Pennsylvania to Colorado in November. Tons of cars here have flashing third brake lights. I've never seen such a thing before. I'm assuming it's an aftermarket modification, but why?
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Apr 28, 2017 00:06
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Because being rear ended is the most common accident.
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Apr 28, 2017 00:10
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Because being rear ended is the most common accident. Well, it's tied with actually rear ending someone else.
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Apr 28, 2017 02:45
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So I doubt anybody remembers but I had a problem with my Fusions power steering failing a month or so ago, and was told by ford to replace the control arms, which I did. Then it happened again, and I spent most of a month arguing with them about getting the steering gear replaced, as are the instructions in their own loving recall notice. Finally got done Wednesday. Pick up the car, battery needs a jump at the dealership. This is a little weird, but whatever. I drive it a half an hour to costco, get groceries, come out a half an hour, car starts up, but not well. I drove it a half an hour home, plus an extra fifteen or so aimlessly trying to give it more time to recharge. Go to start it up today, nothing, so I take my bike to work. Come home and try to jump it, about an hour of trying brought no luck. The battery was very slowly getting enough charge to light more instruments up, but not enough to start it, and eventually I checked around and notice a blown fuse on the battery cable (pictured below). I'm an absolute idiot about things with this car, does anybody know what this particular fuse leads to and if it would've caused the problem I'm describing? Is this an issue with some larger underlying cause, or is it just something they hosed up while replacing the steering gear? Is there an easy place to get this in a hurry (I've called a few auto parts stores and nobody seems to list this part)? Thanks in advance for the help, I'm just absolutely livid at how lovely dealing with Ford has been. 
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Apr 28, 2017 02:57
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DeesGrandpa posted:So I doubt anybody remembers but I had a problem with my Fusions power steering failing a month or so ago, and was told by ford to replace the control arms, which I did. Then it happened again, and I spent most of a month arguing with them about getting the steering gear replaced, as are the instructions in their own loving recall notice. Finally got done Wednesday. Pick up the car, battery needs a jump at the dealership. This is a little weird, but whatever. I drive it a half an hour to costco, get groceries, come out a half an hour, car starts up, but not well. I drove it a half an hour home, plus an extra fifteen or so aimlessly trying to give it more time to recharge. Go to start it up today, nothing, so I take my bike to work. Come home and try to jump it, about an hour of trying brought no luck. The battery was very slowly getting enough charge to light more instruments up, but not enough to start it, and eventually I checked around and notice a blown fuse on the battery cable (pictured below). I'm an absolute idiot about things with this car, does anybody know what this particular fuse leads to and if it would've caused the problem I'm describing? Is this an issue with some larger underlying cause, or is it just something they hosed up while replacing the steering gear? Is there an easy place to get this in a hurry (I've called a few auto parts stores and nobody seems to list this part)? Can't tell you how it happened but something shorted that out. I know that's not very helpful. Is there any possible way you had the wires crossed when you jumped it? Good news is its cheap as poo poo for being a main 200 amp. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251411939872 Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 03:07
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Uh.... I'd guess the dealer moved the alternator out of the way, didn't bother disconnecting the battery, and boom goes the dynamite. Whoever was working on it that day probably had to go home and change their pants. Go raise hell with the dealer. When it runs, do the electronics function, or is it wonky? Hooking jumper cables up backwards generally pops that fuse, and takes out a lot of the car's electronics on the way out. Hopefully it was just a dipshit tech shorting something out and popping it, and not someone swapping cables around. The car shouldn't even try to start with that fuse blown. e: vvvv I agree, normally nothing in the car except for the hazards should have power with that blown. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 03:11
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It's weird that it would start with it blown tho. Looking at it I see that only the 200 one is blown and not the 140 or whatever. Makes sence one goes to alternator and the other to smart junction box then pcm wich controls the starter. So it blew you could start it but the alternator wasn't charging and you drained your battery. Question is when did it blow. When you jumped it or when they jumped it or if they did some welding with uour battery while under the hood Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 03:12
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Didn't realize it was 2 fuses. I guess the 200 probably goes to the alternator side?
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Apr 28, 2017 03:14
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I can confirm the jump was done correctly, beyond that I've got no ideas beyond "loving rear end in a top hat Ford fucks". I'll call them and yell tomorrow. Also all the electronics (that I've used at least) worked fine.
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Apr 28, 2017 03:23
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Yea I'd wager they cocked up and didn't notice cause it started. Get some free oil changes out of it
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Apr 28, 2017 03:35
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Yeah I'll shoot for that. Ford is towing it into their shop and hopefully unfucking it. It's a shame, up until this problem I was really pretty impressed with Ford and this car, especially compared to the Fords I remember my parents owning in the 90s.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:38
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What year Fusion is it and how many miles?
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Apr 28, 2017 17:39
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DeesGrandpa posted:Yeah I'll shoot for that. Ford is towing it into their shop and hopefully unfucking it. It's a shame, up until this problem I was really pretty impressed with Ford and this car, especially compared to the Fords I remember my parents owning in the 90s. The older focuses had an inline fuse to the alternator that was part of the wiring harness. I found out the hard way when I popped it dropping a screw driver on the battery. You have to replace the whole harness 140 bucks and dealer only.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:55
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When did Jeep stop offering smaller tires on the Wrangler? The 90s?
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Apr 28, 2017 22:12
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:ITT: people that don't understand DEF burnoff cycles Hi, bit late back to reply, but yes I am that person, can you offer me any help? I have owned the car from new, been doing the same commute for the entire life time of over 10 years now. Why did the problem not present for these first 100k miles like the angry range rover man, but only later on. I replaced everything i could think of rather than mutilate bits once it transpired that the regens were not going to be a long term fix. By the way I've done nothing and the car is fine at the moment so... I just dunno, hence the question? Aside from the fact that I think companies selling a car should not be able to then resort to: Metal Geir Skogul posted:ITT: people that don't understand DEF burnoff cycles
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Apr 29, 2017 00:01
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FogHelmut posted:When did Jeep stop offering smaller tires on the Wrangler? The 90s? Define "smaller." Low-end JKs come with 29s, but by far most sold have ~31-32s (depends on the specific tire). TJs came with anywhere from 28s to 31s.
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Apr 29, 2017 01:33
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Astonishing Wang posted:Isn't it just pushed into the hold and held in with the one bolt? Looks like he torqued it sideways pretty hard and monkey-hosed it. Preoptopus posted:Well my thinking is that your car is running in a limp mode where its always assuming DTC but has no way of knowing if its right or not. I could be completely wrong tho but I dont know what other diag it could possibly be running unless its sole purpose is to give you engine speed in RPMS for the sake of the transmission cause I see that it does go to your Trans control module. Do you have VVT on that thing? Did a bit of research. Apparently this happens a fair bit. Rust buildup locks it in there and then yeah. If I want it out it's going to be a bunch of work to yank it out. Apparently Pathfinders do have VVT. It's a manual so I think limp mode isn't really an issue here? Either way it's driving fine. I took it on a 600km round trip on Monday and got it over 3000 rpn and hit about 120kph (75mph) and if anything it's driving better than before. That's probably becasue I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty gross but it's running super clean and getting 8.2 km/L (should be about 7.5 km/L for my year and model). The exhaust smells totally clean with no fuel smell at all so I'm assuming there's no negative impact on engine function.. At this point I'm going to roll the dice. I think it really is just used to monitor for emissions testing or is a redundant part or something. Obviously I'll let you know when hubris strikes and it explodes on an interstate somewhere. Outrail fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 06:03
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2007 Honda Accord sedan, 2.4, 5 speed, just under 101k Is there an AI recommended guide to diagnosing poor fuel economy? I get about 20 city and 27 highway. 23/31 is the EPA mark. I kind of suspect a leaky injector as when I changed the oil a month ago, the oil smelled of gas, but I'd like to do as much prep diagnostic work as I can before I take it to a shop. No CEL, and I have a scan tool, but I haven't checked anything with it yet. Spark plugs are new, old ones didn't show anything terribly interesting even with 100k on them, all uniform in color and wear. Air filter was changed with the spark plugs. I ran some seafoam through the gas tank, haven't run it through a vacuum line yet, that'll happen before the next oil change. Not lugging the engine, and I drive pretty conservatively in general. `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 06:16
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`Nemesis posted:2007 Honda Accord sedan, 2.4, 5 speed. Might be time to replace the O2 sensor(s) if they're original at 100k? Something to consider after you do the vac-line seafoam.
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Apr 29, 2017 06:54
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Might be time to replace the O2 sensor(s) if they're original at 100k? Something to consider after you do the vac-line seafoam. Oh yea, it's just shy of 101k right now, I'll edit the post.
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Apr 29, 2017 06:58
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Alignment question - Reinstalled my front subframe tonight, according to the Focus-specific forums you can use an adequately large deep-well socket in place of Ford's specialty alignment pins (which range from $100-300). I tried lining the rack up using this method but I'm sure it isn't precisely aligned. If I take it to a normal shop (I'm thinking of taking it to a Goodyear service center for their unlimited 3 year deal) should they be able to correct for this or will I need to buy the pins or take it to a dealer?
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Apr 29, 2017 07:15
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Anyone that has a VQ35DE with a lifter tick - has replacing the fuel damper made it go away? I test-drove a 2003 350Z last night, and it had this tick.
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Apr 29, 2017 08:38
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Geoj posted:Alignment question - They should be able to do it, and that's what I would do. It's worth the cost just for peace of mind if you're not sure. Cheaper than new tires.
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Apr 29, 2017 09:01
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`Nemesis posted:2007 Honda Accord sedan, 2.4, 5 speed, just under 101k Does your tools do live data? Check out your fuel trims. A small vacuum leak could also be a culprit as well as a faulty or dirty mass air flow.
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Apr 29, 2017 15:12
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Anyone know if Hyundai's protection plan is worthwhile on a used car of theirs? Finance guy added a whopping 2500.00 to total assuming I wanted it. I, in ignorance, walked out. Edit: it was a 2016. The guy made the case that newer cars have computer stuff that can go wrong and that this covers it and everything else Mokelumne Trekka fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 16:31
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Stick the same money into an account instead.
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Apr 29, 2017 16:40
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Anyone know if Hyundai's protection plan is worthwhile on a used car of theirs? Finance guy added a whopping 2500.00 to total assuming I wanted it. I, in ignorance, walked out. Lol our cars with a factory 100k + warranty are poo poo and will break. Buy this so I have some play money at the end of the month.
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Apr 29, 2017 16:53
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Preoptopus posted:Lol our cars with a factory 100k + warranty are poo poo and will break. Buy this so I have some play money at the end of the month. I'm also interested in older year like 12 or 13. I wonder if buying it is a better idea when car is older with like 80k miles
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Apr 29, 2017 17:05
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Anyone know if Hyundai's protection plan is worthwhile on a used car of theirs? Finance guy added a whopping 2500.00 to total assuming I wanted it. I, in ignorance, walked out. You can buy a hell of lot of repairs with $2500. In reality, by the time your car needs that much it won't be worth it. Save the money and spend it when you need to. Paying up front for repairs you may never make is silly.
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Apr 29, 2017 17:12
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:I'm also interested in older year like 12 or 13. I wonder if buying it is a better idea when car is older with like 80k miles I'm interested to hear AIers' thoughts on this. They seem to like older cars like you're describing because they're able to repair any issues they have with no shop labor cost. My opinion is yes, I love the idea of buying a severely depreciated car. However, my concern with that is once I am ready to sell the vehicle, because I tend not to keep cars until the wheels fall off, it will have almost no good value and it'll be a bitch to sell for anything that isn't a pittance and I'd take a bigger loss than if I had bought a newer used car in the first place. This is also dependent on what class you're talking about, econo shitbox, luxobarge, etc. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 17:53
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2012 Kia Soul+ How hard is the driver front wheel bearing/hub to replace? Hearing some light grinding when I'm not braking. Unless something funky is going on with the brakes, I'm thinking wheel bearing. Lots of dust on that wheel, too, and none on the passenger side.
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Apr 29, 2017 23:48
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QuarkMartial posted:2012 Kia Soul+ Pretty annoying they are pressed in if I'm correct. Tou would have to tqke the spindle off and take ot to somewhere with a press unless you have access to one. I dony think thats your problem tho. I'd wager you have a brake pad siezed in the caliper bracket and not releasing properly. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 23:50
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QuarkMartial posted:2012 Kia Soul+ Wheel bearings will change their sound depending on which way you're turning. If it's constant, it's more likely a seized brake caliper like Preoptopus suggested.
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Apr 29, 2017 23:53
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It's sporadic. When I get home, I'm going to pull the tire and look at it. It's just a very slight grinding sound, almost like a bad pulley, except it's clearly coming from that tire.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:10
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QuarkMartial posted:2012 Kia Soul+ Check your axle nuts are torqued correctly too. They have a tendency to loosen up and make funky noises on the smaller kia/hyundai platforms.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:33
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Too tired to pull the wheel tonight, but driving back home (we were on a short day trip) I am now 90% certain it's a stuck pad. It sounds like a rotor being turned ( ) and when it does make the noise, it definitely gets worse under braking. I tapped the brakes on and off a few times and it sync'd exactly.Guess I'm doing brakes tomorrow! (I still plan to check everything else mentioned to be safe.)
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Apr 30, 2017 02:35
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Deteriorata posted:Wheel bearings will change their sound depending on which way you're turning. Specifically, if you have a failing bearing it will make more noise when you turn in the opposite direction of the side with the bad bearing - as the car's weight shifts in the opposite direction of the turn. So if you turn left and the sound gets worse or turn right and the sound gets better or goes away your right side bearing is shot. You can also check by lifting that corner off the ground, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and see if the wheel can move relative to the hub. e: could also be something simple, like the dust shield (if equipped) being bent so its touching the rotor or even a small rock or pebble jammed between the caliper carrier and rotor.
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Apr 30, 2017 03:05
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