|
bbcisdabomb posted:Awesome, I'll snag the Select V2. Have they announced a new version? All I could find was hackaday talking about a new mini and delta. And talking about resin printers coming out, because Peachy didn't get my hopes up far enough. I took another look, apparently they actually appear to be phasing out the v2 in favor of the plus, which they don't seem to be improving further, despite advertising it alongside the rest of the new models.
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 01:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
Revol posted:While swapping them out, I noticed something that might be important. When I was manually extruding the old material out, I noticed that the extrusion immediately curls up into the nozzle. It wasn't doing that a couple weeks ago. What could cause this? Burned crap in the nozzle can cause this. Have you thoroughly cleaned it lately?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 03:19
|
|
|
Hey, I figured out the problem! Wanna know how? I replaced the nozzle.  Issue isn't completely resolved, but it is a day and night difference. I've still got a bit of a line bulging out at what looks to be the beginning of the layer, but I think that is just a matter of tweaking the settings, nothing more. And if I can't get it perfect, I feel confident I can get close enough that it won't bother me. I've got cleaning filament and replacement nozzle cleaner drill bits coming in tomorrow. Anyone have tips on how to clean the nozzles themselves? I've got about 4-5 of them, but all have been used and then replaced because they got a little messy, all with PLA. I'm thinking maybe I can put them in the oven for a while to melt the PLA down, but I'm still not sure how I'd actually get the remaining material out, other than manually picking at it. That's always a hassle, because the nozzles (and thus the material) cool down so fast.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 15:42
|
|
|
Some folks soak them in an agitating vat of MEK to get PLA out (really dangerous), others just mount the nozzle in a vise and hit them with a torch for a few minutes to melt/burn out the PLA and then let the nozzle cool before taking it out of the vise. My personal bit of maintenance is to just run a short segment of cleaning filament (50-60mm) through any time I change spools, then purge the filament through until the cleaning filament is out of the nozzle. I haven't had to remove and clean the nozzle I'm using right now since I installed it last year, but it's an SST nozzle and I print 100% PETG. YMMV if you're using Brass.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 15:57
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Some folks soak them in an agitating vat of MEK to get PLA out (really dangerous), others just mount the nozzle in a vise and hit them with a torch for a few minutes to melt/burn out the PLA and then let the nozzle cool before taking it out of the vise. A couple of times i took a reject piece of the same type of plastic, got the heatblock to barely glass temp , then drove the nozzle (and nothing else) into the reject piece worked after letting everything cool down. The reject piece would be scorched and black but you'll see a tiny string of the filament from inside the nozzle. I bought the upgrade kit from makerfarm to turn my i3v into a Pegasus 12 and had to get a new e3d extruder and one thing I love is their included silicon bootie for the heatblock. One problem I always had was the heatblock sometime touching plastic leaving a perm mark on the heatblock. Not even brake fluid worked on getting it out. But with the bootie everything is super clean. This upgrade is also introducing me to mesh bed levelling and holy poo poo. I don't need to spend a half hour constantly adjusting the bed to get it perfectly dead on level. It's not a solve all since the the resolution of the adjustment ,which I am going to change, (since .10 is too big of a step for an anal person like me) and the fact you still need to get your bed somewhat level but getting bang on awesome levels instead of finding out that it slightly becomes too thin on one edge of the bed compared to the other is super good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 16:25
|
|
|
I did the torch thing but just ended up with a no longer clogged but pretty nasty looking nozzle. I was putting work into getting it clean afterwards with solvents, brushing, and ultrasonic cleaning but thought "wtf am I doing?" and tossed it as junk and moved on with my life. Maybe I did it wrong, or maybe advice on the subject lacks detail & context 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 16:28
|
|
|
Usually I have to come back and hit the nozzle again (after letting it cool) if it's looking black and sooty still but it's usually pretty clean by the time I'm done with the torch. I'll also do that to the heat block (with everything removed) if I've had a bad leak and have PLA melted everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 16:33
|
|
|
duffmensch posted:Usually I have to come back and hit the nozzle again (after letting it cool) if it's looking black and sooty still but it's usually pretty clean by the time I'm done with the torch. I'll also do that to the heat block (with everything removed) if I've had a bad leak and have PLA melted everywhere. I tried the torch method but I found it can clog things even more. The pla bubbles up when you sear it and that can make things worse. I like doing cold pulls now even though I know it's hell on the nozzle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 16:42
|
|
|
EVIL Gibson posted:I bought the upgrade kit from makerfarm to turn my i3v into a Pegasus 12 and had to get a new e3d extruder and one thing I love is their included silicon bootie for the heatblock. One problem I always had was the heatblock sometime touching plastic leaving a perm mark on the heatblock. Not even brake fluid worked on getting it out. But with the bootie everything is super clean. Sounds like we have a very similar setup; I've got a Pegasus 10", with E3D (yes, the sock is nice, helpful to control temp when using a fan) and auto leveling with BLTouch. That final upgrade has made such a difference for me. When I first got into 3D printing, I think the biggest mistake I made was underestimating the problems inherit with manual leveling, and the benefits of auto leveling. Well, actually, the biggest mistake I made was having the PSU set on the wrong voltage and frying some of my drivers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 17:24
|
|
|
Revol posted:Sounds like we have a very similar setup; I've got a Pegasus 10", with E3D (yes, the sock is nice, helpful to control temp when using a fan) and auto leveling with BLTouch. That final upgrade has made such a difference for me. When I first got into 3D printing, I think the biggest mistake I made was underestimating the problems inherit with manual leveling, and the benefits of auto leveling. Did not spend money on the upgrade with the bed extenders (I can and am printing them now lol) and I am okay with doing the manual levelling which is slower than auto level but once I do it I assume it's going to be good for awhile. The other thing I was kind of back offish about the auto level probe is then I'll have to widen my print head radius (since it hangs off the side)which will cause problems with slicer not being able print several pieces sequentially instead doing them all.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 17:41
|
|
|
Nozzles are so cheap isn't it easier to just treat them as the consumables they are?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 20:19
|
|
|
So what sorts of things does everyone actually print? So far it's been VR and drone mods for me, but I want to try out some other practical stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
I just print more parts for other 3d printers 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 22:59
|
|
|
I've printed a couple of useful things, a stand for a Bluetooth speaker, a headphone and controller stand. Right now I'm printing printer upgrades and accessories in the quest for a quiet printer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 23:08
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:I just print more parts for other 3d printers I'm printing an upgraded X carriage so I can go E3d-v6 on my i3 clone. Its a sickness.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 23:10
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:I just print more parts for other 3d printers same.... same. After struggling with octoprint on my raspberry pi zero w and physically destroying the knock-off camera, I have ordered a pi 3 with official camera v2. Excited to see how octoprint runs with multiple cores.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 23:22
|
|
|
My favorite functional print is this:
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 23:42
|
|
|
My focus in printing in the last month had been on my Nintendo Switch, trying to find a new, better grip for the Joy Con. Right now I'm working on a project for my mom's birthday. And then eventually I should get around to the major project I had in mind when I got this, custom sized magazine holder type boxes for putting comic books on shelves. And then there is all the cool random poo poo I find on Thingiverse.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2017 23:42
|
|
|
Pretty much all my prints are for camera mounts, or some sort of plate for a mini quadcopter. My most utilized print is this knockoff pair of Fatsharks to fly my quads:  Gets 4-8 hours of use every weekend and makes me happy
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
I've mostly printed printer parts and tools to date but my printer's finally humming along fairly well so I'm making more just-for-fun models. I've made a few things for my wife (Nintendo-themed things) and my sisters-in-law (random models from Thingiverse), and right now I'm working on a Tachikoma model for my desk. I picked up 3D printing to make stuff for my fishtank but it turned out that all I print with is PLA which would just dissolve 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 00:15
|
|
|
Mostly functional parts. Check out my Thingiverse page for most of them. I have a slew of things not on there, because I don't think they're good enough to publish. Basically any time I go "I wish I had a plastic jobbie to hold <thing> <here>," I design one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 01:14
|
|
|
csammis posted:I picked up 3D printing to make stuff for my fishtank but it turned out that all I print with is PLA which would just dissolve  What are your fish swimming in? PLA should be fine in fish tank water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:20
|
|
|
App13 posted:So what sorts of things does everyone actually print? I make and sell Raspberry pi cases for aviation weather receivers. http://imgur.com/a/j2WsM The most poplar version is about to be injection moulded so my printer will get a well deserved rest.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:28
|
|
|
I use it for work; whenever I need a specialized part or shape that is geometrically straightforward but would be a huge pain in the rear end to make by hand? To the printer! But work stuff is boring so it's fun to do other poo poo too, like these P-08 grips with a Hydra logo on 'em  Or this scratch-built lightsaber which I was pretty happy with because it was the first most complex thing I ever modeled, complete with screw holes and mating surfaces, etc.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:32
|
|
|
helno posted:I make and sell Raspberry pi cases for aviation weather receivers. Those are badass, BTW.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:33
|
|
|
helno posted:I make and sell Raspberry pi cases for aviation weather receivers. That's cool as hell, congrats on getting your design injection moulded.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:42
|
|
|
Mister Sinewave posted:Those are badass, BTW. Thanks mewse posted:That's cool as hell, congrats on getting your design injection moulded. Getting snippets from crazy conversations with the Chinese factory has been the best part. They had to make surprisingly few changes to the design to make it doable. I'll make a better write up once they get the first shots done.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 02:47
|
|
|
csammis posted:I've mostly printed printer parts and tools to date but my printer's finally humming along fairly well so I'm making more just-for-fun models. I've made a few things for my wife (Nintendo-themed things) and my sisters-in-law (random models from Thingiverse), and right now I'm working on a Tachikoma model for my desk. PETG laughs at water, print stuff in that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 03:27
|
|
|
Anyone here order a Monoprice Mini V2 yet? I'm still fighting my pegasus, so I'm thinking of picking it up just so I can do some printing. Waiting for the first set of reviews to roll in next week first. A lot of what I want to do is on the smaller side, so it'd work well as a supplementary printer if I ever get the 8" thing up and running.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 05:20
|
|
|
Not personally but the Facebook group is pretty active with the new version and the experiences seem to be good so far. No reports of DOA printers or anything like that yet so it's just the usual how to clear jams and troubleshooting slicers at this point. Thankfully they're now including enough filament sample to fully print the beckoning cat, instead of just enough for half a cat (and a possible stuck bit of filament).
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 05:26
|
|
|
echo465 posted:What are your fish swimming in? PLA should be fine in fish tank water. It's a reef aquarium, so saltwater under strong lights. I haven't tried it myself but 3D printing enthusiasts and reef aquarium enthusiasts - which don't overlap as much as you might think - have indicated that PLA has a relatively short lifetime compared to ABS (or PETG, thanks for the tip!).
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 17:57
|
|
|
csammis posted:It's a reef aquarium, so saltwater under strong lights. I haven't tried it myself but 3D printing enthusiasts and reef aquarium enthusiasts - which don't overlap as much as you might think - have indicated that PLA has a relatively short lifetime compared to ABS (or PETG, thanks for the tip!). I am a reefer and have converted my printer to print abs. I want to print connectors and top and bottom pieces for a tube media reactor poo poo like that. I made a dosing tube holder in pla and as it's not in the sump it works fine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
When I made some custom parts, I fell in love with Autodesk 123D. It was simple enough not to learn CAD and still do amazing things with STLs. For example, you could select a face and pull that face out to extrude it while keeping all the internal design intact. It allowed for creating a pattern and dropping it down into an object to remove material in the shape of the pattern all the way down. You could select the inside of a tube and could move the inner diameter either in or out which allows to tighten up or loosen a hole. You could create a pattern around a design and then repeat it around it allowing me to easily make gripped surfaces for something I was very close to making a deal with a partner to start mass producing it. It was super simple and reminding me of QOOLE when I started doing Quake maps. Autodesk closed down and the site is referencing replacement tools that is utter garbage (Tinkercad) to signing in to the Autocad suite of tools that could probably figure out, but hell if I want to learn it. Plus I only have 30 days where as I would have to pay hundreds of dollars for to just stretch models. I am not making a mechanized, over engineered, product over here, I just want to do the above features. I used Meshmixer before (actually came with 123D) which I used from time to time to fix models from online, but when that tool does not want to do something, MAN, it will refuse to go and not tell you why. tl;dr: I want to put a star on top of a cube, have the editor detect the pattern when I select it, and allow me to drop it down into the cube or extend it up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 21:11
|
|
|
Fusion 360.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 21:37
|
|
|
On the subject of modeling, do you guys have any recommendations for software to turn my ideas into reality? Available tutorials would be a huge plus since I have zero experience in any kind of art, CAD, or modeling software. I don't mind jumping in head first if it means I won't have to learn another program later.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 21:48
|
|
|
Fenom posted:On the subject of modeling, do you guys have any recommendations for software to turn my ideas into reality? Available tutorials would be a huge plus since I have zero experience in any kind of art, CAD, or modeling software. I don't mind jumping in head first if it means I won't have to learn another program later. BMan posted:Fusion 360.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
Yeah was checking it out after I posted, seems like it might do the trick.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 22:11
|
|
|
Here's the tutorial I used to get started, it goes over some of the best practices that I wouldn't have thought to use coming from other software. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbSkwvZyU_0
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 22:15
|
|
|
BMan posted:Fusion 360. That is the software with the 30 day trial before you have to pay. I'm trying to find something else other than that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
OpenSCAD. Programmer approach to design.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 22:44
|
|