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shame on an IGA posted:bruh. 15" wide path with wheels and a handle for $22. Thank you! That is the coolest thing ever!
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Apr 27, 2017 01:12
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Brekelefuw posted:I need to make a casting of the bore of a tapered tube. Check out SmoothOn's products, they've got a wide range of stuff that might work for you. https://www.smooth-on.com/
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Apr 27, 2017 02:10
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Seconding SmoothOn. Tons of options and I bought through Mcmaster. Mcmaster has a helpful picture showing all the different hardnesses. Depending on the slenderness ratio, I recommend suspending an all thread with some nuts or something else you can use to pull it out. I used shore 80 or so to recast bushings in my car. It came out like hard plastic close to PVC.
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Apr 27, 2017 03:29
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Gunsmiths use low-melt alloys to take impressions of firearm chambers and the like, some are even formulated to shrink by a known amount so you can remove the casting easily while still being able to figure out the real dimensions. Never worked with it, though.
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Apr 27, 2017 16:28
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Gunsmiths use low-melt alloys to take impressions of firearm chambers and the like, some are even formulated to shrink by a known amount so you can remove the casting easily while still being able to figure out the real dimensions. Never worked with it, though. I'm going to give it a shot with my cerrobend, and if that fails I'll get some of the stuff posted above.
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Apr 27, 2017 19:51
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i bought a bunch of Aliexpress special bulk drill bits ages ago but only looked at em carefully now, and lol the geometry on at least half of these is totally hosed, one of the flutes will have negative relief and be a lot deeper than the other (so it throws the drill's center point off). fix yo drill grinding setup my dudes
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Apr 27, 2017 20:22
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*meticulously stones a 1/8" 5-cent drillbit by hand to make it actually useable* i saved money and that's what really counts ok
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Apr 27, 2017 20:23
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Hello and please allow me to introduce you to my glorious shovel. The design is inspired by a tree planting bar aka dibble bar. The objective of the design is to give the user a broad footrest above the shovel head to really drive their heel into their work. I have elected to use two bars rather than an offset bar.       The shovel is squared up and ready to be welded. But before I start it bears mentioning that I have not welded anything since 2003. I may be rusty. So I have some practice scrap. It was cut from the same material as the shovel so I figure maybe I can dial in my settings and then the final product will hopefully suck less.     How am I doing?
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Apr 27, 2017 23:12
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Not great, alternating between too hot and too cold. That said, it's a loving shovel. At least knock off the wire spikes to keep them out of the garden.
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Apr 28, 2017 00:10
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"Too hot" good news. I was worried that my little mastercraft welder would not be able to put out enough heat to penetrate metal of this thickness. Do I need to just watch my travel speed or ...? fakedit: Good advice on the wire spikes. Will be grinding them off on the shovel proper.
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Apr 28, 2017 00:48
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oh man carbide is the freakin bomb for small endmills, just rigid as all hell, it feels like it deflects as much as a HSS mill twice its diameter would.
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Apr 28, 2017 03:10
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yeah carbide is fantastic until you accidentally drop it and 
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Apr 28, 2017 03:31
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Sagebrush posted:yeah carbide is fantastic until you accidentally drop it and Cover your floor in anti-fatigue mats. They won't stop 100% of breakages, but they'll help a lot, and they also have the neat side effect of reducing fatigue!
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Apr 28, 2017 05:45
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sharkytm posted:It's a loving shovel.  Hooray!
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Apr 28, 2017 20:42
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Ambrose Burnside posted:*meticulously stones a 1/8" 5-cent drillbit by hand to make it actually useable* i saved money and that's what really counts ok Once upon a time a travelling roadshow tool sale with crap that Harbor Freight wouldn't even touch with a pole came through town and I had the opportunity to pass on a set of taps with obvious mold parting lines and bubble inclusions in the threads.
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Apr 28, 2017 20:56
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I need to tap a few holes to accommodate a few 1/4"-20 set screws. Would picking up a cheap tap and die set from HF do me okay or should I just get a nice set out of the gate?
SwitchbladeKult fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 21:33
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SwitchbladeKult posted:I need to tap a few holes How many? And; In what? are probably relevant. If you're slow and careful then cheap taps might see you through. Maybe.
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Apr 28, 2017 22:07
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Rapulum_Dei posted:How many? And; In what? are probably relevant. If you're slow and careful then cheap taps might see you through. Maybe. 6 holes in some 3/8 black iron pipe. It's a real small job and I've never needed to tap a hole before which is why I'm considering cheap taps. I'd just hate if they were so cheap they failed to do the job. SwitchbladeKult fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 22:39
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SwitchbladeKult posted:6 holes in some 3/8 black iron pipe. It's a real small job and I've never needed to tap a hole before which is why I'm considering cheap taps. I'd just hate if they were all cheap they failed to do the job. I would think you'd be fine. Taps are cheap as hell if something goes wrong.
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Apr 29, 2017 01:35
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SwitchbladeKult posted:6 holes in some 3/8 black iron pipe. It's a real small job and I've never needed to tap a hole before which is why I'm considering cheap taps. I'd just hate if they were so cheap they failed to do the job. Hope you like efforts in futility. Decent taps in cast iron pipe aren't fun. You'll want to grind or file a flat on the pipe to get the hole started. Use thread cutting oil, go forward a half turn then back half a turn to break the chip.
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Apr 29, 2017 02:22
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Weld a nut on that bitch.
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Apr 29, 2017 02:35
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SwitchbladeKult posted:. I'd just hate if they were so cheap they failed to do the job.
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Apr 29, 2017 07:46
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Rapulum_Dei posted:'Fail' in this context means snapped off and stuck in the hole which could be fun times indeed. *shudder* Oh yea. I've become so used to having an Edm to burn out taps at work I forget that most people can't do that
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Apr 29, 2017 12:38
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Sinker, right? How's that work? You have a custom electrode that's the diameter of the tap shank?
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Apr 29, 2017 13:28
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Did a little light welding just now, and discovered that my lil' red FCAW machine has failed in an interesting way -- it always works when I pull the trigger, but stopping when I let off the trigger is 50/50. I.e., I set it down and it keeps feeding live wire out the tip. So I guess fixing that will be my project for next weekend. Also, I haven't burned steel in like three years, and have lost all my skills -- even aside from the malfunctioning machine, the welds are atrocious, and when I pulled out the tiny stick buzzbox to use instead, I couldn't even strike an arc, just made sparks.  But I did manage to get the job done and didn't have to call the fire department, so I'll call it a success. As they say, "a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't."
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Apr 29, 2017 17:07
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Still looking for an anvil and found this amazing post on Craigslist.  Anyone got a Jeep Wrangler or "self defense items" they are looking to get rid of?
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Apr 29, 2017 19:37
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sharkytm posted:Sinker, right? How's that work? You have a custom electrode that's the diameter of the tap shank?  Just happened to take this picture the other day, it's a small hole edm,we have 4 of them. Similar concept to a Sinker, we just have a bunch of electrodes in diameters ranging from .3mm to 6.0mm. Burn out the middle of the tap and it breaks into pieces. Also note my sweet (crappy) homemade v block
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Apr 29, 2017 21:38
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I have some 3mm plate, about 200x200mm square, that I would like to try and make completely flat. Would putting it on the mill and taking to it with a face cutter be a bad idea? A friend said it should be ok, take light cuts and secure it at the ends with 4 clamps. Then cut off the pieces obscured by the clamps, or move them to mill that area. I'd like to place something between the mill bed and the piece though, as someone who damaged their mill base was once told "now you know why you eat on a plate rather than the polished mahogany wood while you are cutting up a steak". For this purpose what would work? I am thinking I'd need to mill a second thicker piece of plate first into a roughly flat large 'parallel' - this would be my dinner plate.
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Apr 29, 2017 22:44
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For practical purposes, the milling machine is good enough. If you want it really flat, get three of it and rub 'em against each other until smooth.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 23:28
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How dangerous is making a forge out of an old propane tank? While I was considering it I watched a video on YouTube about a guy that died trying to weld casters to an old acetone barrel and I'm having second thoughts.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:15
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SwitchbladeKult posted:How dangerous is making a forge out of an old propane tank? While I was considering it I watched a video on YouTube about a guy that died trying to weld casters to an old acetone barrel and I'm having second thoughts. I made a foundry out of a 30lb tank. The main safety lesson is first to fill the tank with water overflowing to ensure zero zero ZERO remaining gas. Once I did that I was able to grind and weld just fine.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:49
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Mr. Bill posted:I made a foundry out of a 30lb tank. The main safety lesson is first to fill the tank with water overflowing to ensure zero zero ZERO remaining gas. Once I did that I was able to grind and weld just fine. The way you phrase that makes it sound like you didn't first start by filling it with water. What happened?
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Apr 30, 2017 00:58
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I assume he means he just didn't try until that point. That's what I've done when I've screwed with stubby canisters too; even when you feel comfortable that there isn't any meaningful lingering gas, a physical confirmation of that impossibility is what you want, and "just fill it with water until it overflows" is definitely the fastest/cheapest way to do so. You can flood it with inert gas too, but for a small vessel water is ubiquitous, easy and more certain.
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Apr 30, 2017 02:12
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Took some photos of the inside of my compressor tank when I was having apart some connections anyway:  Seems to be some light pitting, I dunno what material this is suposed to be, there's zero rust outside despite a harsh 30-35 year old life so I thought it was stainless, but the inside looks pitted?
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Apr 30, 2017 08:06
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Ambrose Burnside posted:You can flood it with inert gas too, but for a small vessel water is ubiquitous, easy and more certain. Though if you have a mig or tig machine, you have a big bottle of argon handy anyway ... but yeah, water is more visibly obvious that it's fully purged. I kinda want to get a mig machine to replace my wonky FCAW, just so I can use the argon to drive out/murder the spiders living in a pair of boots I haven't worn in awhile 
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Apr 30, 2017 10:20
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Mudfly posted:I have some 3mm plate, about 200x200mm square, that I would like to try and make completely flat. Would putting it on the mill and taking to it with a face cutter be a bad idea? A friend said it should be ok, take light cuts and secure it at the ends with 4 clamps. Then cut off the pieces obscured by the clamps, or move them to mill that area. Surface grinder all day errday
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Apr 30, 2017 14:25
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shame on an IGA posted:Surface grinder all day errday Something that big, I'd say blanchard grinding.
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Apr 30, 2017 14:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:Took some photos of the inside of my compressor tank when I was having apart some connections anyway: The compressor pump shoves atmosphere into the tank. That atmosphere contains lots of water. As you slowly release air from the pressure vessel, the pressure drop inside the tank causes moisture to condense. Eventually you wind up with water all over the inside of the tank, and in severe cases you can get a puddle of water in the tank too. Store it like that for a long time and it will rust. Stainless steel is resistant to rust but not rust-proof. Your tank might be stainless, I dunno, but it's never surprising to see water inside a pressurized air tank.
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Apr 30, 2017 19:57
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At work I'm assisting with intro machining classes for high schoolers, they get brought in from the handful of technically-oriented high schools that still exist here. Over a month and change they make a couple simple tools, grind their own lathe bits, and machine + assemble simple steam engines. The kids are... unexpectedly great?? They don't screw around nearly as much as I'd have thought, they're into what we're doing, and are legitimately eager to learn. My boss wants me to design, build and demonstrate some jigs to streamline a couple repetitive drilling tasks to demonstrate a bit of how actual manufacturing streamlining/iteration goes. It's excellent stuff!
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Apr 30, 2017 21:18
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I'm not sure I like how I mounted baby's first DRO on my lathe cross slide but this was the best I could figure out, I didn't want to mount it on the head stock side so this is what I came up with. Anyone have a better idea?  Not sure how I'm going to route the cable for it either. I'm working on printing a guard for it but I can't figure out how to separate these two bodies in Fusion 360 after doing a cut operation on it (it won't fit on my printer table): 
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May 2, 2017 15:28
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