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Skunkrocker posted:I'm writing a script because I'm one of those lovely people who thinks he can catapult his way into a life of luxury (read: not having to borrow ten bucks for gas) by just not being the Big Bang Theory guy. Is there any particular reason you're using Google Docs? I'd suggest getting a program specifically designed for screenwriting because the time you spend loving around with formatting is time you're not spending on writing. Final Draft is the industry standard, it's kind of expensive but it gets discounted sometimes and has student rates. If you want free, Celtx has been the standard for that, although I haven't really used it since it went web-based only. You can still find the old desktop installer around if you look. Only problem with Celtx is that you have to be connected to the Internet to use the PDF exporter. There's more out there, too--I forget what it's called (Writer Duo? Duo Writer? Something like that) but one is a newer web-based one that's designed around collaboration if that's what you need from GDocs.
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Apr 8, 2017 15:29
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CaptainViolence posted:Only problem with Celtx is that you have to be connected to the Internet to use the PDF exporter. There's more out there, too--I forget what it's called (Writer Duo? Duo Writer? Something like that) but one is a newer web-based one that's designed around collaboration if that's what you need from GDocs. cutepdf can convert anything that can print into something that can export as pdf
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Apr 8, 2017 18:41
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Scrivener works pretty well too, it allows you to compile multiple documents into an outline and do lots of reorganization stuff, which is useful for when you're still writing drafts that will be heavily edited. It also has built-in script formatting so you shouldn't have to putz around with that.
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Apr 8, 2017 23:39
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CaptainViolence posted:Is there any particular reason you're using Google Docs? I'd suggest getting a program specifically designed for screenwriting because the time you spend loving around with formatting is time you're not spending on writing. Final Draft is the industry standard, it's kind of expensive but it gets discounted sometimes and has student rates. If you want free, Celtx has been the standard for that, although I haven't really used it since it went web-based only. You can still find the old desktop installer around if you look. Only problem with Celtx is that you have to be connected to the Internet to use the PDF exporter. There's more out there, too--I forget what it's called (Writer Duo? Duo Writer? Something like that) but one is a newer web-based one that's designed around collaboration if that's what you need from GDocs. It's mainly to send new drafts to friends for proofreading and general commentary without having to upload a new version every time, they can just click a link. I didn't really like Final Draft when I first touched it, but it's for people who know what they're doing. I'm not one of those people.
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Apr 9, 2017 15:05
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How do I find clients for my freelance graphic designing in literally the middle of a cultural wasteland? I live in a tiny little barely incorporated village of 300 in the center of Wisconsin. local businesses are either not interested as anything design related is provided by whoever owns that brand. or Small family run businesses that don't want nor need to advertise. I tried to sell my services online but it just feels like I'm shouting into the wind. I apply for any design related job that pops up on the local job boards but I almost never hear back from. Moving isn't an option anytime soon.
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Apr 26, 2017 16:22
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Network in the nearest big city.
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Apr 26, 2017 16:49
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Keep promoting yourself online, finding work is a full-time job in and of itself.
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Apr 26, 2017 23:49
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What's the best place or way to go about getting business cards printed? I'm an Architect and I just obtained my license... eventually I'm going to go on my own or at least moonlight and business cards are a "first step". It's just a hard pill to swallow right now to pay $1+/card, but I also don't want plain rear end cards as a designer. I'm not getting a set off vistaprint or moo. I have my design ideally. I'm intending a solid color front with my monogram/logo inset with a deboss. Reverse would be a single color text. If it's reasonable I'd like a portion to be letterpressed. I'd like the stock to be a heavy uncoated white paper.
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Apr 28, 2017 19:26
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xwing posted:What's the best place or way to go about getting business cards printed? Hire a designer or find a local, reputable print shop that offers design services that don't suck and use them. There's honestly nothing wrong with Moo if you have a good design. I printed mine with them and I'm a designer who hands the cards out to other designers.  You realize if you deboss the front it's going to be visible on the back, right? The way you've described this card, with both letterpress and debossing, you're looking at way more than $1/card unless you print several thousand business cards. If your monogram/logo requires a custom die (it will), that alone will probably cost you a few hundred bucks before you even start talking about printing costs. Granted you usually get to hang onto the die so you can use it in the future.
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Apr 28, 2017 20:11
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kedo posted:Hire a designer or find a local, reputable print shop that offers design services that don't suck and use them. There's honestly nothing wrong with Moo if you have a good design. I printed mine with them and I'm a designer who hands the cards out to other designers. I don't need a designer. I have it all in Illustrator and know it can be done. With a sufficiently thick stock the deboss and the letterpress won't show through... I just wasn't sure if there's another way to go about this other trying to find a print shop in google. I guess I was wondering if there was some place online I had no clue about. There's no shop locally to me that can handle it. Maybe an hour away I could find it, but that's enough that I probably should buckle up and pay the cost to order online. I'm looking at $1/card if I order 500. xwing fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 20:58
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Ahh, the ol' "architect who is also a designer who refuses to listen to any advice" cliché. My favorite. I'd offer some more advice, but it doesn't seem like you want to listen to it. So good luck getting your cards printed.
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Apr 28, 2017 22:52
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Google/contact Mama's Sauce. They screen print and letterpress which will give you an emboss or debs feature as needed. And they can do it so it won't show on the other side. Mine are letterpress, foil, thick, and awesome. You pay a price (mine I think were over a buck a piece for 500) but as a designer it's my first impression so it's worth it. e: I know quite a few architects and they're competent designers so I won't make fun of you.
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Apr 28, 2017 23:31
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kedo posted:Ahh, the ol' "architect who is also a designer who refuses to listen to any advice" cliché. My favorite. Some days I spend just as much time in adobe programs (Ps, Ai, Id, etc...) as I do in CAD. But usually I get the same thing from people from who don't think they need an Architect, I'm just drafting "their plans", so whatever. I've got a design. I need help with navigating the printing process and not needlessly pissing away my money. Ferrule posted:Google/contact Mama's Sauce.... You pay a price (mine I think were over a buck a piece for 500) but as a designer it's my first impression so it's worth it. Great and thank you! They're in Orlando too which is close-ish to me. That's exactly why I'd like my cards done well and leave an impression. I really don't have a frame of reference for cost. If the neighborhood of $1/card with a bit of quantity is the going rate I'll just have to bite the bullet. It's an investment.
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Apr 29, 2017 02:44
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would anyone have any recommendations for decent nib or fountain pens for inking over pencil drawings? So far I have a set of beginner nibs that seem to be kinda generically made that scratch up the paper real bad and gives me a real bad feeling when using them. Or is that how nibs are supposed to feel like and they just smooth out over a lot more use? also, are there any good cheap choices for scanners or would I have to shell out a lot of money to get one that doesn't absolutely mangle the physical to digital transition?
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Apr 30, 2017 00:12
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Futaba Anzu posted:would anyone have any recommendations for decent nib or fountain pens for inking over pencil drawings? So far I have a set of beginner nibs that seem to be kinda generically made that scratch up the paper real bad and gives me a real bad feeling when using them. Or is that how nibs are supposed to feel like and they just smooth out over a lot more use? I'd say make sure you're not pressing down too hard and you're not straying too far from the direction the nib wants to go. Might be the paper, the smoother the better.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:33
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dupersaurus posted:I'd say make sure you're not pressing down too hard and you're not straying too far from the direction the nib wants to go. Might be the paper, the smoother the better. Yeah seconding this. A bad feeling from using the nib definitely means that something is off. Pressure, direction and angle of the nib are really important and you can break a nib by going against the grain so to speak. Look for some online tutorials and experiment with it and see if you can get it to feel better. Also not sure what nibs you are using since you say they are beginning nibs but decent quality nibs are really cheap. So I'd go ahead and get something like a few 102 crow quill nibs from Speedball and maybe a 512 nib as well for beefier lines. Avoid boxed sets, as they are overpriced. Crow quills you can get for about a dollar, 512s you can get for about 2 dollars and both nibs are professional quality. Either order online or you can go to your local art store and ask if they sell individual nibs, the ones around here do so hopefully it's the same where you live. If you think paper is a problem and are on a budget you can buy something like HammerMill's Color Copy Digital Paper at an office store. It's a bit heftier than regular printing paper and is extremely smooth, so it's a really nice budget option. (under 20 dollars for 500 sheets). If you want to spend a little more, getting some smooth bristol board would be ideal. Bristol is great to ink on but definitely more expensive.
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Apr 30, 2017 11:46
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I'm slowly writing my own RPG book and I'd like to get it published eventually. Probably though DriveThruRPG. However, I'd like to have a public website about its development where I can get feedback from people before it goes to print. What is the minimal acceptable standard for this? Would making a WordPress page and slapping my name and date on it be enough? I'm paranoid and I've heard harrowing stories of people combating IP theft.
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May 4, 2017 02:50
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Are there any "canonical" books for fashion illustration? Like, something which is to fashion illustration what Loomis' books are to figure drawing? And on that note, would those books teach me anything that won't already be covered by just doing a lot of costumed figure drawing?
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May 4, 2017 13:54
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Hi everyone! I am working on a little art project - one thing I need to do is be able to attach a lightweight piece of wood (about the size of a silver dollar) to a surface like a cubicle "pushpin" surface or a cork board. One way to do this would be to drive a small nail through each piece. The reason I don't like this is that if a piece falls off and someone steps on it they could get a nail (albeit a small one) in their foot! Especially due to the shape it would almost be like a caltrop! Another way might be to hot-glue an individual staple on each piece. Not quite as dangerous as nails. I might also be able to use the "hook" side of hook-and-loop (Velcro) to get it to stick. Any ideas on how best to do this? 🤔 Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:02 on May 13, 2017 |
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May 13, 2017 13:58
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Childish question, but are we allowed to post fanfiction work we have written or is it only original stuff? I'm looking for feedback beyond two sentence reviews on FF.Net
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May 15, 2017 18:22
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Three-Phase posted:Hi everyone! Hot glue can be pretty weak. Use wood glue, specifically Gorilla Glue. Wood glue is best for wood (hence the name) and will bond to the cork extremely well. Just be sure to either clamp the pieces or weigh them down (books or something) and let sit for a few hours.
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May 16, 2017 16:50
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What do I need to know for purchasing and painting on wood panels? I use acrylics. I was just going to go to Michael's or Joanne's.
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May 19, 2017 16:51
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Franchescanado posted:What do I need to know for purchasing and painting on wood panels? I use acrylics. You could probably find cheaper wood at the hardware store to paint on. Or maybe one of those wood supply shops, there are a few around here that have nice sales on panels every now and then. You'll probably want it decently thick, sometimes thin panels can warp especially if you live in a high humidity kind of place. Painting acrylic on wood is pretty straight forward. You don't have to worry about the paint not adhering to or degrading the wood and you don't even need to prime if you don't want to. Gesso is pretty much white acrylic anyways. If you don't prime, the wood will suck up some paint but it's nothing additional layers won't fix. Though if you want you could prime with a layer of a single color and then work on that to make sure you have good coverage. That's a good idea if you don't want the wood grain to peek through in areas (but some people love that effect). Also if the wood has any defects (like depressions) you might try to cover those up by gesso'ing and sanding the entire panel down a few times. That can be very time consuming though be warned. Though if you don't care about the defects or you buy a piece of wood that is perfectly smooth then you don't have to worry about that at all. Nice thing about expensive "art panels" from craft stores is usually they'll be pretty smooth and thick but they will overcharge you by a lot for that. But long story short, unlike oil paint, there aren't really many special considerations for acrylic on wood. So experiment and have fun with it. JuniperCake fucked around with this message at 00:05 on May 20, 2017 |
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May 20, 2017 00:03
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JuniperCake posted:You could probably find cheaper wood at the hardware store to paint on. Or maybe one of those wood supply shops, there are a few around here that have nice sales on panels every now and then. You'll probably want it decently thick, sometimes thin panels can warp especially if you live in a high humidity kind of place. Cool, thank you so much. I'll drop by the hardware store tomorrow.
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May 20, 2017 01:49
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If you go to the hardware store and get lumber, you should sand the surface down (like, 120 grit). This gets rid of some imperfections and actually will help paint adhesion. I haven't painted on wood in years but I do a lot of wood-working and I always sand before staining. Also, if there is a depression like mentioned above that you don't want, you can fill it with wood putty. Let it dry, and then sand it smooth. A little easier than filling a hole with gesso, plus, the putty is darn close match to the wood color so it's almost invisible. edit: pine should be pretty cheap and gives a nice base color. avoid plywood unless you buy the pre-sanded stuff (but that can be costly). Ferrule fucked around with this message at 16:51 on May 20, 2017 |
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May 20, 2017 16:48
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How important is a high quality business card? I get that first impressions are everything, but is it worth it to spend $500+ on cards from places such as Mamas Sauce or Anders Printing?
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May 22, 2017 19:58
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Rusty Bodega posted:How important is a high quality business card? Not that important unless your business depends on appearances. Get a nicely weight paper (over 100lbs) and a clean design and don't overthink it. If someone says, "no, you really need letterpress and a deboss and this foil stamp and a UV coating and..." they are wrong. Not a single person in the world has decided to work with one plumber over another (for example) because of the quality of their business cards. Source: I am a designer who designs business cards for people.
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May 22, 2017 23:18
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Rusty Bodega posted:How important is a high quality business card? Legibility trumps any fancy printing methods or design tricks you may be tempted to use, it's more important that the design fit your business and the work you're looking for. Listen to kedo, pick a paper that feels nice in your hand and is heavy enough that it won't easily crease and focus on making it legible and accentuating your business. Alternatively, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YBxeDN4tbk
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May 23, 2017 00:17
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Also a designer chiming in that they don't matter much, unless the design makes it harder to read your contact information. Might also want to consider a good amount of whitespace to allow for notes on the card, if that's your thing.
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May 23, 2017 02:30
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Arcsquad12 posted:Childish question, but are we allowed to post fanfiction work we have written or is it only original stuff? I'm looking for feedback beyond two sentence reviews on FF.Net yes, certainly. you will get some ribbing but probably useful feedback as well. if it's a longer piece post it in its own thread, if it's shorter then there's a fiction farm thread that I'll bump in a mo. that said, thunderdome is the best place for writing feedback around here, but unfortunately it doesn't like fan fiction.
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May 23, 2017 08:44
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The Dave posted:Also a designer chiming in that they don't matter much, unless the design makes it harder to read your contact information. Good to know. Simple look with a heavy paper (from posters above) and some space for notes. 
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May 23, 2017 15:16
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In Photoshop CC (Mac), when I Quick Export an EPS file as a PNG (which I do all day long to create low-res proof images for my customers), the default folder is the source document's folder, which is exactly what I want. But when I do the same thing to a PDF, the default folder is the USERS -> myname folder. And then I have to manually select the source doc's folder, which is a very minor pain in the rear end, but a pain nonetheless. I make a lot of these proof images, and it's so much easier to just hit Enter to save the Quick Export. Why two different save behaviors based on the source image's file type? In Preferences, the two options for Quick Export Location are: • Ask where to export each time (I have this selected) • Export files to an assets folder next to the current document (definitely not what I want)
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May 23, 2017 16:38
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Rusty Bodega posted:How important is a high quality business card? I had mine printed at mama's sauce. They're gorgeous. But i wanted the weight and the letterpress look and the foil. It's minimal and legible (they do great work) but yes, pricey. So to reiterate what others have said: if it works for the design, it's worth it but don't do it just because it's there.
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May 24, 2017 15:36
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Are there any decent CD booklet layout programs still floating around? I'm working on a mixtape and I'm thinking about putting together a little booklet with album thumbnails and a little blurb about each track. Ideally I'd be able to tell it 14 or 16 pages and it would generate a booklet template and keep everything in the proper scale and page order so it all shakes out correctly when you print everything out and fold it in half. Barring that, is there a good resource for templates for this kind of thing for Word or Gimp or something?
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May 26, 2017 00:31
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InDesign is the standard program for print layout like that.
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May 28, 2017 17:56
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Rusty Bodega posted:How important is a high quality business card? The best business cards are the ones that tear out of a little booklet. Not because they impress people (even though they do), but because they don't separate and get lost in your bag. My company gets theirs from Hallocard and I doubt they're very expensive knowing my company. Just don't do what we did and make the back black. Plain white for notes is best. Edit: yeah, they're dirt cheap - ~$0.20/card. And I still get more compliments on them than my last company's $1/piece self congratulatory bullshit cards. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:27 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 19:22
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I once worked for a marketing/mobile app company who's owners were super pretentious and had massive imposter syndrome inferiority complexes and all of our business cards were printed on little business card-sized brushed aluminum plates. They came with little individual faux-leather sleeves to put them in. I worked there for 3 months and the company was out of business within 6 months of my leaving. My point is just go with something simple.
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May 30, 2017 21:23
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What are good websites for finding high resolution images of photos and art? Trying to print stuff off for posters and wall-art. So far I've just been in the aptly named "HighResPrints" subreddit. e: using Costco's photo center to make posters. JIZZ DENOUEMENT fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 07:24
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Just saw this one on reddit: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection
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Jun 2, 2017 03:19
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Yo I was going to put a neat graphic design on top of a piece of wood and then I realized I know gently caress all about how colors go together, and I could use some advice Here's what I'm looking to use (it's just a mock-up, the real thing will be stenciled on top of stained wood)  It looks "ok" to me, as in it doesn't hurt my eyes, but I'm not completely sure if this shade of reddish brown goes with this shade of violet and black. And maybe black doesn't go with reddish brown at all? maybe I'm overthinking this Minorkos fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jun 7, 2017 |
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Jun 7, 2017 00:14
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