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So I know this will be shocking, but I actually did more stuff on the boat! Finally finished planking that stupid bulkhead #4 that I already had glued to the keel. Probably would have been easier to unglue it from the keel and then put it back on after planking, but oh well, got it done.  Once that was done it was time to begin setting the bulkheads for the center/main cockpit area. A good & meticulous boat builder would have a fancy building board with a frame designed to keep the tops of the bulkheads even side to side. I do it ghetto style with a loose plank across the top of the bulkheads, my eyeballs, and some clamps.   Of course I'm a big clumsy oaf so I managed to break a bulkhead while using it to size the bulkhead slots in the planked floor pieces. This is the 2nd bulkhead I've broken, they are extremely fragile at this point. I decided to reinforce this one when I fixed it by drilling a hole in both pieces (1.15mm drill) and inserting a small wooden dowel cut from boxwood with a drawplate.    After all the middle bulkheads (but not the main aft bulkhead for the section) are mounted, I dry fit the main cockpit deck, and it required a slight bit of adjustment with an emory board, after which it fits quite nicely. There is not enough room for the main aft bulkhead due to the extra thickness added for the planking on it, so I have to sand about 1/32" off the aft end of the deck pieces before it will fit with the aft bulkhead in place. I reduced the bow end prior to this.  Both main floor pieces have developed a slight warp, a curve from side to side, they are straight in the long direction, so I dampened the back basswood and they are currently both sitting under a significant amount of weight on a flat surface to hopefully remove most of the warp. Will take a while to dry in between the surface and the heavy pieces of wood on top.
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Apr 27, 2017 23:15
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Looking great. This is my personal solution for dewarping even the most stubborn pieces. 2 sheetss of perfectly level and flat carpenters plate and about 25 kilograms of weights. Soak the piece for 12 hours, put between boards, put on weights, leave for a few days until dry. Started on second planking of the Soleil Royal today. 
Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 01:53
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Greyhawk posted:Looking great. This is my personal solution for dewarping even the most stubborn pieces. 2 sheetss of perfectly level and flat carpenters plate and about 25 kilograms of weights. Soak the piece for 12 hours, put between boards, put on weights, leave for a few days until dry. Sounds like a pretty great solution, but that 12 hour soak in this case would have removed all the planking from the basswood backing.  quote:Started on second planking of the Soleil Royal today. Gonna look sweet with all the walnut. Are you going to use scale length planks on the hull for the 2nd planking?
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Apr 28, 2017 02:13
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Oh right, planked already, that would be bad then. No scale length planks for the Soleil Royal, I'm afraid, but there's so much varnish and colour and other stuff going to be thrown onto there, it wouldn't really be visible anyway. I've put up a preview on my wall  Here's a quick thing I threw together for the SO yesterday evening. It's a Herbie Reloaded pendant. The letters are a bit off, but who cares, it's "handmade" and all. Glued a ring to an acrylic base really, stuck in the numbers and filled it with clear resin. Presto jewelry. 
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Apr 28, 2017 16:35
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Probably a dumb question, but why multiple layers of planking? Does it give a different visual effect? Or is it for more frame strength? Or maybe just to be authentic (and then, why do actual ships do it)?
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Apr 28, 2017 16:39
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Kibner posted:Probably a dumb question, but why multiple layers of planking? Does it give a different visual effect? Or is it for more frame strength? Or maybe just to be authentic (and then, why do actual ships do it)? The first layer is flexible yet strong wood to define and strengthen the overall shape of the hull. It's mostly a structural element to provide a base for the second layer to lie on. The second layer is a very thin veneer to make things look like the actual wood used in the actual ship. So why not just make the second layer thicker? The second layer wood, in my case walnut, is often much more prone to resisting bending or will outright break. If my walnut veneer were as think as the limewood planks it would break when I tried to bend it in the correct form. Due to the thinness things get easier. That said, there are ship models where only one layer is used to plank. This has the added disadvantage that things have to perfect on the first try. With two layers you have the chance to correct the shape of the hull by sanding and filling after the first layer . You do not have this with option with only one layer. Every plank needs to fit perfectly from the get go. Then there's hybrids like my fishing boat, which is only planked once, then sanded and filled, but will then be primed and painted. This only works for modern ships though. Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 16:53
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Double planking also let's the kit manufacturer cheap out on the laser cut parts. The shape of the hull is defined by the bulkheads, and to get a good accurate hull form with single planking would require at least double the number of bulkheads. It's far cheaper to throw in a bunch of basswood strips for the first layer of planking than to double or more the large bulkheads. Also if the outside planking is going to be a hardwood, even if it was bendable without breaking, it would cost a lot more than the veneer does.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:29
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Gotcha. Thanks for the answers because I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have guessed that!
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Apr 28, 2017 17:41
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 Made a tarp out of aluminum foil and a rubber box insert out of construction paper. The spare tire will not fit where it belongs on the kit so I'll set it on the tarp and make some old Coors cans out of sprue to scatter around the box. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 00:14
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I like the way the tarp came out. Looking good! Boat stuff... Next up after the middle bulkheads/frames was the aft cockpit bulkheads/frames. These all fit fairly loose so had to be aligned as I went in both directions. Wasn't too bad, and I got all of them set fairly quickly.  Once the bulkheads were dried, I did the final adjustments to the floor and seat for the aft cockpit and glued them in place. This is in the instructions after the main floor, but it was spending a couple of days under a heavy stack of wood trying to get most of the warping out of it.  After about 48 hours of crap stacked on the floor of the main cockpit I figured it was good enough, and I did the final adjustments and glued it in place.  Once the deck is in place, the next step is to assemble the coal bunkers. These are the final step to align the frames and make them rigid enough for planking, so the next step is to begin the hull planking once all the glue is well dried. 
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Apr 30, 2017 01:08
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Thanks. I tried it with a plastic shopping bag but the foil holds its shape better. Final thing then I'm calling it until I decide to do the decals: spare tire and an empty tall boy of Coors in the truck box 
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Apr 30, 2017 03:50
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Apparently lead foil is the way to go for tarps, but I haven't found any.
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Apr 30, 2017 04:04
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clutchpuck posted:Thanks. I tried it with a plastic shopping bag but the foil holds its shape better. I kinda think it needs a dog in the back as well to complete the look.
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Apr 30, 2017 04:38
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Nice. I'll keep an eye out for a 1:25 dog. Such an oddball scale...
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Apr 30, 2017 04:54
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clutchpuck posted:Nice. I'll keep an eye out for a 1:25 dog. Isn't that a pretty common scale for car models?
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Apr 30, 2017 05:21
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The Locator posted:Isn't that a pretty common scale for car models? Even weirder, I see both lots of 1/25 and 1/24 kits, while the military model market has pretty much settled on 1/35 and 1/72 as the main scales.
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Apr 30, 2017 09:48
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Except big aircraft are 1:32 to this day for some reason.
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Apr 30, 2017 15:41
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1/25 is pretty much only used by US manufacturers. Europe and Japan stick to 1/24.
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Apr 30, 2017 22:11
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Continuing to search for a camo pattern for a Ratte: experiments on mice   
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Apr 30, 2017 22:22
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Some WIP pictures of a Star Wars Speederbike I'm working on. I tried airbrushing a Flory weathering wash and ended up with this weird spotting all over it. Kind of a cool effect, but not exactly what I was after. After about an hour with a wet Q-tip and a brush, I got it blended and streaked and looking good enough for me. When I tried to mount the pack roll to the rear deck, it wouldn't press down all the way. This is because it is a snap together kit and the tolerances are very tight on the mounting posts. With my posts being painted, I couldn't get the pack to push down flush with the rear deck. The solution was to slightly drill out the female holes to make some room. As you can see, I went a little to deep and drilled all the way though. I'm going to try to fill it and touch up the paint in the affected area, but I have a feeling I'm going to have to repaint the whole thing. 
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May 1, 2017 00:59
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lilljonas posted:Even weirder, I see both lots of 1/25 and 1/24 kits, while the military model market has pretty much settled on 1/35 and 1/72 as the main scales. ^^^Dude that looks really cool 1/35 literally exists because Tamiya was doing motorised tank kits and that happened to be the best size for housing whatever batteries they were using. Radical 90s Wizard fucked around with this message at 01:03 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 01:01
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SkunkDuster posted:Some WIP pictures of a Star Wars Speederbike I'm working on. I tried airbrushing a Flory weathering wash and ended up with this weird spotting all over it. Kind of a cool effect, but not exactly what I was after. Yikes, that's a big hole. Get a helmet and put it on top, maybe? It's going to be a massive pain in the rear end to touch up.
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May 1, 2017 05:18
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lilljonas posted:Even weirder, I see both lots of 1/25 and 1/24 kits, while the military model market has pretty much settled on 1/35 and 1/72 as the main scales. 1/48 is also big for planes, and naval stuff is 1/700 and 1/350 usually
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May 1, 2017 07:59
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There are a buttload of random common scales, like 1/76 existing to fit into HO/OO scale train set terrain, which just exist because something else was made in that scale and people wanted to park one thing next to another in the same scale on the shelf.
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May 1, 2017 08:21
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NTRabbit posted:1/48 is also big for planes, and naval stuff is 1/700 and 1/350 usually 1/200 is becoming increasingly common for large ship models. In wooden ships, 1/48 was the 'de-facto' scale for centuries, as that is the scale that the ship builders used to make the admiralty models which they presented to the Naval Board to get approvals for construction. Modern (i.e. last 100 years) wooden ship kits are all over the place though, and usually a smaller scale. While 1/48 can be found and is still common in scratch building, 1/64 and 1/72 are much more common, but other kits are in all sorts of bizarre scales like 1/87, 1/92, 1/50, 1/54, 1/80.. it's crazy.
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May 1, 2017 14:22
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Arquinsiel posted:There are a buttload of random common scales, like 1/76 existing to fit into HO/OO scale train set terrain, which just exist because something else was made in that scale and people wanted to park one thing next to another in the same scale on the shelf. A lot of this stuff is actually 1:72 with the label changed and then sold for more money. I think Airfix is the biggest offender. Alternatively, maybe their 1:72 stuff was actually 1:76 all along.
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May 1, 2017 14:34
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Ugh, gently caress, I was excited for a new Crusader model, but turns out the Tamiya one is just a slight upgrade of the ancient Italeri model. Still has vinyl tracks, too.
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May 1, 2017 17:31
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Ensign Expendable posted:A lot of this stuff is actually 1:72 with the label changed and then sold for more money. I think Airfix is the biggest offender. Alternatively, maybe their 1:72 stuff was actually 1:76 all along. It's the second one, except for planes which were always 1/72.
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May 1, 2017 18:57
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George Zimmer posted:1/25 is pretty much only used by US manufacturers. Europe and Japan stick to 1/24. Revell has a bunch of 1:24 car kits, but this "TRUCKSSSSS" product line is all 1:25. My guess is they figured they could save a buck per kit with a smaller scale.  Next thing, a Lockheed Vega. Amelia Earhart flew a Vega solo across the Atlantic and from Hawaii to Los Angeles. I think it's the plane she was flying when she was lost? This one is a Shell livery kit, but I am going with Earhart's red and gold stripes. If I can find some custom lettering I will do her FAA #s too. Big fit gaps on this one. Friend of mine left some Citadel "liquid green stuff" putty at my house so I am using his expensive stuff instead of my milliput.   ... drat near killed him! My wife expressed interest in having her dining room table back, so we went to Ikea and got a new dining room table for not the dining room... 
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:15 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 19:12
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clutchpuck posted:Next thing, a Lockheed Vega. Amelia Earhart flew a Vega solo across the Atlantic and from Hawaii to Los Angeles. I think it's the plane she was flying when she was lost? Nah she was flying a custom Lockheed Electra when she was lost
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May 2, 2017 04:02
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clutchpuck posted:My wife expressed interest in having her dining room table back, so we went to Ikea and got a new dining room table for not the dining room... I need a better work lamp. Do you know what that one is? My lighting sucks so much, I can't see poo poo.
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May 2, 2017 22:18
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Just some cheap LED thing from Amazon with a magnifying lens.
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May 3, 2017 03:49
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So my dungeons and dragons campaign went off the rails. The party just hijacked a panther tank, and now we're headed to what I assume is a Nazi base.  I wanted to make sure the dungeon master had an allied tank, in case he needed it. I ordered and assembled a 1:72 Trumpeter Sherman for this purpose.  It's a nice little kit. The instructions say the rubber tracks can be glued with plastic cement. Either this is a lie, or I'm doing something wrong. Still a solid kit, though.
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May 3, 2017 03:53
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Nope, that's a lie. The only rubber tracks you can glue with plastic cement are Dragon Styrene tracks, which only come with Dragon kits. The Trumpeter PT-76 I assembled had the same claim and it also didn't work.
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May 3, 2017 04:07
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Metal Steam Train. We've got sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUe8_bnia7A Next up: moving gears.
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May 4, 2017 12:11
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Nice steam whistle! Now make is use real steam.
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May 4, 2017 17:07
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I would put in a smoke generator but I don't think that would go over well in the office
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May 4, 2017 17:41
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Ensign Expendable posted:Nope, that's a lie. The only rubber tracks you can glue with plastic cement are Dragon Styrene tracks, which only come with Dragon kits. The Trumpeter PT-76 I assembled had the same claim and it also didn't work. Tamiya's newer releases can be glued with regular cement. I did their early Sherman - not a new kit by any stretch - and its tracks glued a-ok.
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May 4, 2017 19:30
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Lots of good work in this thread, I've started on a Merkava IID after coming across from miniatures. I always knew scale is a money sink, but weathering products... oh my god.
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May 5, 2017 10:02
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Tentacle Party posted:Lots of good work in this thread, I've started on a Merkava IID after coming across from miniatures. I always knew scale is a money sink, but weathering products... oh my god. It's looking good! If you want to invest less for the same results, oils and a proper solvent can do wonders. Washes, filters, rendering...(detail painting with blended oils, both dry and wet) Gewehr 43 posted:Tamiya's newer releases can be glued with regular cement. I did their early Sherman - not a new kit by any stretch - and its tracks glued a-ok. I've always glued them with cyanocrylate. Good results, the joint is strong enough.
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May 5, 2017 16:57
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