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Howdy folks, I'm relatively new to the hobby and I was planning on finally getting around to painting my marines today and tomorrow. I've got the color scheme determined, but I realized I don't know what to paint my weapons like. The paints I have right now are the chaos black primer, xereus purple, auric armor gold, and ceramite white. Someone in the 40k thread recommended getting nuln oil for a wash for recesses and highlighting the armor with black. I was gonna see if I can get the gold primer from my LGS, and grab the nuln oil. I was hoping somebody could recommend a good black paint for highlighting, and whether I should get certain paints for weapons, or if there's some cool mix I could do with the paints I have. For reference, I'm using m3 armor, as seen here:  With this color scheme:  Thanks in advance!
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May 5, 2017 01:08
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From another novice, but the purple either needs to be dialed back or distributed more evenly as an accent. Also not feeling the black trim on the shoulders.
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May 5, 2017 01:15
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mango sentinel posted:From another novice, but the purple either needs to be dialed back or distributed more evenly as an accent. Also not feeling the black trim on the shoulders. Thanks for reminding me, I should have mentioned I plan on making the upper shoulder trim plating gold, and the lower part black
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May 5, 2017 01:24
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Munchables posted:Howdy folks, I'm relatively new to the hobby and I was planning on finally getting around to painting my marines today and tomorrow. I've got the color scheme determined, but I realized I don't know what to paint my weapons like. You might want to pick up a base purple to go down first before the Xereus Purple. Otherwise you'll have to do a ton of thin layers to build up to a bright purple. I'd go with Naggaroth Night. Same thing with Auric gold. I'd grab Retributor armour.
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May 5, 2017 01:23
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Munchables posted:Howdy folks, I'm relatively new to the hobby and I was planning on finally getting around to painting my marines today and tomorrow. I've got the color scheme determined, but I realized I don't know what to paint my weapons like. I'd advise going with a few more colors than just the main - to make things look really good, you'll want to build up a few layers from darker shades, and if you're feeling confident, give them some highlights to make them stand out even more. Here's my suggestions: For the gold, Retributor Armor base -> Reikland Fleshshade Gloss shade -> Auric Armor layer -> (optional) Liberator Gold highlights. Check out WarhammerTV's painting tutorial for Stormcast Eternals for a great video tutorial to do this gold, it comes out looking ace. For the purple, Nagarroth Night base -> Druchii Violet shade -> Xereus Purple layer -> (optional) Genestealer Purple highlights For the black, Abaddon Black base -> (optional) Eshin Grey highlights -> (more optional) Dawnstone sharper highlights, will create a stoney warm matte looking black When you're assembling them, I'd recommend not sticking the backpack/head/arms on to the torso - it's a nuisance putting stuff on sticks, but it'll make painting MUCH easier, since you won't have to worry about getting purple in your gold.
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May 5, 2017 02:32
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Thanks a bunch for the tips folks, I've got a good shopping list for paints now, but considering how many more I need to get it might be a bit before I can get around to painting. I'll be sure to post my attempts here 
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May 5, 2017 03:01
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Well, I did it. This drat mini, that I've had sitting on my desk since SEPTEMBER last year, is finally done.     He was originally a submission for the Oath Thread but I can't keep to a four week schedule, apparently... I'm not satisfied with his whip. I thought mottling it would be fine but seemingly not. It gets lost against the stronger pink. His head isn't that well done, either but screw it! He's DONE! He's done! He's done. He's done!    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ssw9xCcMp1M
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May 5, 2017 03:06
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The last few mini posts are good as loving hell across the board.
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May 5, 2017 03:13
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Followed the Alpha Legion example provided and I am into it. Here's hoping simple green can take that tamiya spray off the aspiring champion!
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May 5, 2017 03:21
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I tried to follow that guide and it never came out right = (
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May 5, 2017 03:45
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Yeast posted:Awesome! First of... too drat many. Joking aside its the first space marine I've painted in probably 8 years? When were grey knights absurdly ridiculous?   Excuse the lumpy shoulderpad, I made several failed attempts at drawing the black legion symbol by hand  And don't worry about the crappy bases, I'm waiting on a greenstuff roller from greenstuff world and I'm gonna have some fantastic 32mm chaos ruins bases
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May 5, 2017 06:13
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Awwwww yeah. This is hot. Good work, Warboot.
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May 5, 2017 08:21
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Figure this should go here over the 40k end thread. Tonight's photo of scratch built exorcists since those sob stand ins from the last tgg kick-starter should be arriving Soon™ (supposedly)  To do: sand panels lines smooth, fabricate doors/hatches (and come up with a way to make tiny Fleur de lis easier than all by hand), add missile ports, and rivets. It's down to a manageable list that doesn't fill me with dread. It's actually been really great practise for scratch building with plastics so I can apply that material better on other art projects though. They're almost exactly the size of a stock rhino, and my angles are pretty much spot on, compared to my last attempt that's very much not any of those things. Question on the side armour: the normal exorcist has that doofy angel/wing relief. I'm wondering if it's better to just leave these panels bare, and paint them a contrasting colour, rather than filling them by sculpting in even more detail. They're already really busy up top with the reliquary launchers.
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May 5, 2017 08:40
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The whole thread posted:Lots of cool stuff recently!
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May 5, 2017 09:12
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VolatileSky posted:Figure this should go here over the 40k end thread. I love then. They look clean and symmetrical, which I find very hard to achieve.
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May 5, 2017 09:36
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VolatileSky posted:(and come up with a way to make tiny Fleur de lis easier than all by hand) http://www.thorminiatures.com/gold-ornament-1-transfers-decals-sheet/13/
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May 5, 2017 11:57
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Texmo posted:For the gold, Retributor Armor base -> Reikland Fleshshade Gloss shade -> Auric Armor layer -> (optional) Liberator Gold highlights. Check out WarhammerTV's painting tutorial for Stormcast Eternals for a great video tutorial to do this gold, it comes out looking ace. As an aside, something you could do (and I've done myself with really neat results) is to shade the gold not with Fleshshade, but with the same Druchii Violet you'd already be using for the purple. I'd definitely try it out on a bit of sprue or spare bits first, just to see how you like it. I'd also recommend against the gold primer, as you're gonna have a hell of a time going over that with the purple and not having the metallic flakes show through. Just stick with the black primer though I'd rather use a Krylon or Rustoleum rattlecan from walmart, as it's cheaper and actually primer, because metallics just look better over a darker primer. Hell, if you do it right and have a steady enough hand, you can just prime black all over, put the gold where you want it, and fill in the shoulders with the purple, skipping over the black base for the trim completely and just highlighting it.
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May 5, 2017 17:31
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Aniodia posted:As an aside, something you could do (and I've done myself with really neat results) is to shade the gold not with Fleshshade, but with the same Druchii Violet you'd already be using for the purple. I'd definitely try it out on a bit of sprue or spare bits first, just to see how you like it. tbh I agree, but given the distribution of the gold it shoudn't be too bad. He could just spraycoat the torsos and legs in gold and everything else in black.
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May 5, 2017 21:58
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Gooch181 posted:Followed the Alpha Legion example provided and I am into it. Here's hoping simple green can take that tamiya spray off the aspiring champion! Looks good. I notice some pooling on the elbow there, so you might want to not use as much wash next time around. Pooling is Satan incarnate and should be avoided at all costs. mango sentinel posted:I tried to follow that guide and it never came out right = ( Personally I've never tried it, but if I were to I'd probably use an airbrush. Quicker, easier, little chance of pooling, and would make the coverage more even. But hey, Gooch181 seems to be doing something right.
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May 5, 2017 23:11
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Yeah, part of why I just got an airbrush is so I can do proper candy coats for Alpha Legion.
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May 5, 2017 23:15
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That alpha legion tester looks rad, gonna use it for my Chaos Kill Team for sure.
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May 5, 2017 23:18
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I have a basement full of 20 year old CSM. I think its time to strip some minis!
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May 5, 2017 23:31
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It was dead simple, but as noted above it's way too thick. The first two coats of glaze i essentially applied like I would a wash and it pooled up. Next time I'll focus on much thinner layers. My aspiring champion is taking a simple green bath, but I'm not confident that tamiya stuff will come off so easily.
Gooch181 fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 23:30
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What what's your technique? Leadbelcher, highlights, blue glaze, green glaze?
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May 6, 2017 00:28
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For that test model it was black primer, then leadbelcher, followed by a little bit of ironbreaker silver. I did three coats of the blue, two of the green, and a final of the blue glazes. The picture said only two bottom coats of blue but i think I had too little faith in the glaze coverage; my next one will hopefully be thinner. I also noticed when I started the third coat that I had been sort of spreading the glaze around like I would a wash; I'm pretty sure that contributed to my feeling that it needed an extra blue coat as it was pooling and not staying on the raised spots on the shoulders. I corrected myself by getting a good coat on but being sure not to disturb it with my next brushstrokes.
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May 6, 2017 02:12
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So originally this was going to be a plain black figure on a purple background, but now I've started to paint the background to make it more exciting. Is there a color you guys would recommend for the black figure? Does he still look alright as-is? Also, I will be painting a light saber soon. It's Kylo Ren so it's supposed to be red but would orange work well? Mask is all sorts of messed up. The vents are making it hard in that area and from some angles it's more recognizable than others. 
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May 6, 2017 06:22
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Anyone know where I can get a mini that resembles this? I know it will probably need some conversion, but if I can at least get the main body with a skirt that would be a great start.
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May 6, 2017 15:18
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where I can get a mini that resembles this? I know it will probably need some conversion, but if I can at least get the main body with a skirt that would be a great start. Dunno a specific model but Soda Pop minis should probably be your first stop http://sodapopminiatures.com
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May 6, 2017 15:23
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Crossposting time. Blood Raven Contemptor Dreadnought finally based and finished.  Surprisingly nice job even if I couldn't pose all that interestingly since I got it pre-assembled. Finished painting it a couple of weeks ago and just been waiting to base it. Decided to go with a glass wasteland instead of going with rocks. Had picked up a whole bunch of polished pieces of glass near the beach that I thought would've looked great. Funny enough green pieces when applied to a base makes them look a bit like Tiberium Crystals. Need to remember not to thin out the texture paint as much for next time. Had that happen to another test model.
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May 6, 2017 15:57
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where I can get a mini that resembles this? I know it will probably need some conversion, but if I can at least get the main body with a skirt that would be a great start. https://www.reapermini.com/figurefinder#detail/50176 https://www.reapermini.com/figurefinder#detail/50228 https://www.reapermini.com/figurefinder#detail/50304 https://www.reapermini.com/figurefinder#detail/50314 https://www.reapermini.com/figurefinder#detail/50334 I can most assuredly troll up some minis from other manufacturers later, but I've got errands to run.
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May 6, 2017 17:55
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Thanks guys. I didn't realize reaper made so many dumb one-off figures, but I guess that's what they do. I did find this from soda pop too. I'm just really sad that all these poses, reaper and pop, are so static and ditzy with the stupid knees together pose. There's not a single ganbatte! pose.
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May 6, 2017 18:07
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Chill la Chill posted:Thanks guys. I didn't realize reaper made so many dumb one-off figures, but I guess that's what they do. I did find this from soda pop too. I'm just really sad that all these poses, reaper and pop, are so static and ditzy with the stupid knees together pose. There's not a single ganbatte! pose. I'm sure they exist. Like I said, I'll check later. Also, Heroforge is pricey but might be able to bash out what you want.
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May 6, 2017 18:10
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where I can get a mini that resembles this? I know it will probably need some conversion, but if I can at least get the main body with a skirt that would be a great start. Remembering to look through this now that I'm home, but it looks like Relic Knight is doing a kickstarter so lord knows when this will actually get fulfilled, but: http://sodapopminiatures.com/princess-malya-questing-knight-1225 
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May 7, 2017 05:36
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Chill la Chill posted:Anyone know where I can get a mini that resembles this? I know it will probably need some conversion, but if I can at least get the main body with a skirt that would be a great start. Go for something more reasonable and support a fellow goon at the same time! The Dice Bag Lady sells this model based  You can pick one up here! http://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Raging-Annie/p/82090950 [/plug]
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May 7, 2017 06:17
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Annie rocks buy from her
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May 7, 2017 07:53
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HardCoil posted:I love then. They look clean and symmetrical, which I find very hard to achieve. Thanks! You can do it too, it's just practise every now and then as you get more experience/ambition. Ages ago I started with just adding very tiny details, extra armour to modes. I've made some large stuff like my "hell prawn" for the world eaters, but free form stuff is relatively easier than trying to make a copy of pre existing things even with paper craft blueprints.  The left thing was my first ever attempt at scratch building rhinos (or anything bigger than just tiny details) 5 years ago or so. It's like a bloody land raider, and I've never had the heart to go back and fix it. Those are actually really wicked! But because I hate myself I decided the 3d relief would give the sides a bit more depth and detail! 
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May 7, 2017 10:15
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I did it! I painted my FIRST model! My 30k guys have to be stripped because I screwed up priming them, but I put together a snap-fit AoS Khornate and grabbed a Marine from a box my friend gave me years ago. I primed them both to practice the right way to do it and they came out great, so I decided to paint the Marine to practice that and check out my color scheme in action. Here are my results, I know it looks reeeeeally amateur, it's my first model ever, so I'd love some feedback and tips (sorry in advance for the image quality).  Here he is just after applying the base coats. I ended up not coloring the gun, holster and dagger beyond the black basecoat because I'm still not sure what look I want for weapons, and I didn't know what to paint it as for now.     And here are a few shots from once I finished. I had a lot of trouble with the shading and highlighting, mainly the purple. I'm pretty sure I need to use a smaller brush (I used size 0) and a steadier hand. Also, I couldn't see this until I looked at the pictures, but I missed a significant area on his forehead, so I'll keep better lighting in mind as well. I really like the colors for the golds, so thank you very much for suggesting those, I made a shopping list and grabbed them all yesterday. The Reikland Fleshshade gives such a great rustic look to the joints and recesses. I was worried at the start about the purples however, because the base (Naggaroth Night) seemed very dark, but the layer paint brought the brightness out more. I must have done something real wrong with the shading though, because I don't think it ever popped out for me. When I applied the Genestealer Purple to the edges, it helped define it more, but I didn't put it on well, so it looks messy, though some of the edges on the arms look nice and I really like how the backpack came out, besides the messiness. I'd like to have a brighter or more metallic purple though, possibly, so if anybody has recommendations I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for all your tips and advice, and thanks in advance for any more and any feedback! Edit: Wow looking at it blown up like this I can see a lot of stroke marks and splotches, really sorry about that. I'll probably strip some of the marines I've got in this box and use them for more practice before I work on my 30k guys.
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May 7, 2017 12:53
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Edit: Posted in the wrong thread.
mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 17:19 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 17:01
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Hey man, don't be down on starting to paint. I mean poo poo, you not only put paint to mini (which is more than I can say as of lately due to work), but it actually gets the concept scheme across as well. Hell, it doesn't look  either, which is a big thing for new painters (myself included). Suggestions: -definitely go get other brushes. Again, maybe not so much GW stuff, as it's fairly expensive, but for now I'd say even a collection of brushes from Walmart (or your equivalent) should be enough to get you started. Once you get the concept down, you should look into picking up the higher quality tools, but I wouldn't drop  on kolinsky sable brushes when you're still getting basics down.-thin your paints. I still have a dry palette (one of the cheap-o plastic circle ones from Walmart), and it's a habit at this point when starting a new color to dip the brush into my water, put it on the palette, then take a brushful of paint and mix. Unlike the bargain Apple Barrel paints, most mini paints (Vallejo, GW, Reaper, P3) can be thinned really, really far down and still retain a decent amount of pigment. However, with few exceptions (mostly airbrush paint, I've found), paints do need to be thinned right out of the pot. Exactly how much depends upon the color, the brand, and what effect you're trying to achieve, but start getting into the habit of adding even one brushful of water to your paint before putting it on the mini. -more of a general thing to do, but start from the innermost areas and work your way out. That way, any mistakes you may be making on the inner parts (like getting paint where it shouldn't be) will be covered over by the rest of the paintjob. Just saves time, as opposed to going over the same part 5 different times because you keep accidentally getting paint from another section on it. -lighting issues: I've found that it's easiest for me to paint during the daytime by a large window, so that way I have natural light to work by. Other people may not be as Again, man, you took your first step,
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May 7, 2017 18:59
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Dr. Phildo posted:Annie rocks buy from her She also has a great selection of conversion bits as well. The Statuesque line have heads scaled to Warhammer bodies and slimmer ones.
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May 7, 2017 20:16
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