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PainterofCrap posted:Weird old-car braking issue: Does it have residual pressure check valves? Could one be broken/ missing?
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May 6, 2017 08:28
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm ready to pull the soft line on the left front. It's not that old, but one of the hoses that was on this car when I bought it (in 2000) had busted the inner-most ply, so that pressurized brake fluid would cause the loose section to flap across the inner hose & block pressure to the wheel cylinder. Impossible to tell visually; I cut & peeled the hose open, later, and found it. Does it have a proportioning valve? Can it be adjusted if it does?
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May 6, 2017 17:03
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wesleywillis posted:Does it have a proportioning valve? Can it be adjusted if it does? I haven't seen one on a single-circuit master cylinder before, and usually if there is a proportioning valve it's front-rear not left-right. But yeah, if he's got one that's set up like that, it would be a place to look. joat mon posted:Does it have residual pressure check valves? Could one be broken/ missing? Aren't those usually in the master cylinder?
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May 6, 2017 21:31
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What you need to do is pull off the drum, inspect the cylinder to make sure it's not seizing, remove all the other hardware and make sure it's not binding up. Then throw all that poo poo in the trash and do a4 wheel disc conversion.
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May 6, 2017 22:14
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Update on 2005 impala with sporadic squeak: I changed out the front brakes and it seemed to go away. I drove probably 500-600 miles over the weekend and didn't notice anything. Got back home and noticed the squeak sporadically comes back. I notice it starts most when I turn the wheel, while driving slow, but the squeak persists until I come to a stop. If I start driving again right away, the squeak continues. If I let my car sit for maybe an hour or so, the squeak goes away until it seems to randomly come back. I am probably gonna do the rear brakes this week some time, but is there anything I should look at up front/back while I've got it jacked up? For what it's worth, I never noticed the squeak at all until after I had my tires rotated...
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May 6, 2017 22:47
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My mother in law has a 2012 Ford Fiesta (grey) and while she was driving back from the shops just now the radio displayed "alarm announcement". Never seen it before, can't see anything in the manual about it. Anyone know what it means? The car doesn't have an alarm.
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May 7, 2017 02:54
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Memento posted:My mother in law has a 2012 Ford Fiesta (grey) and while she was driving back from the shops just now the radio displayed "alarm announcement". Never seen it before, can't see anything in the manual about it. Anyone know what it means? The car doesn't have an alarm. My guess is weather related alarm, much like my cell phone will pop up weather related emergency alerts. Maybe Amber Alert? Edit: Googled around a bit, now I'm not sure. Found a link that said it was battery related...
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May 7, 2017 03:01
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Memento posted:My mother in law has a 2012 Ford Fiesta (grey) and while she was driving back from the shops just now the radio displayed "alarm announcement". Never seen it before, can't see anything in the manual about it. Anyone know what it means? The car doesn't have an alarm. I googled it, and it seems to be related to a dying battery. I suspect there's a subroutine that checks the battery voltage and it gives the alert if it won't be able to power the alarm anymore. It obviously doesn't check to see if there's actually an alarm system present, though.
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May 7, 2017 03:06
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Recently acquired a vehicle. 2015 highlander to be specific. Kids climbing in and out, but it's a bit tall. Good/cheap-ish running boards? who/what/where? All my stupid googling points to generic as hell web storefronts that are sketchy as hell. Anyone? Bueller?
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May 7, 2017 03:13
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Deteriorata posted:I googled it, and it seems to be related to a dying battery. I suspect there's a subroutine that checks the battery voltage and it gives the alert if it won't be able to power the alarm anymore. It obviously doesn't check to see if there's actually an alarm system present, though. That's super weird. I'll tell her to go get it checked, it sits idle sometimes for a few weeks when they're away so it might be on its last legs even though it's only around five years old.
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May 7, 2017 03:27
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A typical car battery lasts 3-5 years; if it's the original battery, it's definitely worth getting the battery tested. I've had batteries last anywhere from an hour to a little over 10 years, but 2-3 years is what I typically get out of one (hot climate here, cooler climate would be closer to 4-5 I would think) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:09 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 07:03
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2007 GTI. Just had an alignment done when I had the steering rack replaced. Swapped my tires this week to my summer tires and I have to hold the wheel just barely off center to keep the car in a straight line. Tread depth is the same on all tires. I trust the alignment job. Air pressure is the same on all tires. What the hell do you guys think happened?
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May 7, 2017 09:09
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Is it actually pulling to one side, or is the steering wheel just off center? If it's pulling, it might be that either the previous tires or your summers are slightly different tread depths side to side; different diameters can make the car pull. Maybe measure the tread depths and rotate your tires so matching pairs are on the front/rear axles. If the winters were off, it could have thrown off the actual alignment, but I'd expect the shop to have caught that.
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May 7, 2017 14:13
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Enourmo posted:Is it actually pulling to one side, or is the steering wheel just off center? If it's pulling, it might be that either the previous tires or your summers are slightly different tread depths side to side; different diameters can make the car pull. Maybe measure the tread depths and rotate your tires so matching pairs are on the front/rear axles. Hey yeah as mentioned the tread depth is the same on all tires.
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May 7, 2017 14:23
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Derp, the one sentence I skim over. Well, as I mentioned, were the winters also like that?
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May 7, 2017 14:47
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If it doesn't pull, they hosed up the alignment
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May 7, 2017 14:49
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Raluek posted:Could it be that the shoes aren't adjusted the same left to right? First application of the pedal moves the shoes into position, and one side grabs first. Then they haven't retracted all the way when you apply the second time, so both sides are near the drum, and they apply at the same time and don't pull. I have adjusted the gently caress out of the shoes. The only time I ever (temporarily) solved the issue was by adjusting the opposite wheel tighter. Worked fabulous for a while. edit: tires were replaced two years ago & the alignment is good, while that subject is coming up... joat mon posted:Does it have residual pressure check valves? Could one be broken/ missing? wesleywillis posted:Does it have a proportioning valve? Can it be adjusted if it does? As noted, yes, it has a front-to-rear block, not adjustable. It's 51-years old & built with stone-age tech. Enourmo posted:What you need to do is pull off the drum, inspect the cylinder to make sure it's not seizing, remove all the other hardware and make sure it's not binding up. I replaced the front wheel cylinders about four years ago; no change. Replaced the shoes less than a year ago:  Enourmo posted:Then throw all that poo poo in the trash and do a4 wheel disc conversion.  I have three sets of shoes (front & back) and two sets of hardware/spring packs. It's wearing the factory drums, and I intend to keep it that way until I die. (by the way, Enourmo, your av cracks me up, every time) PO took really good care of this car. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 15:22
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:If it doesn't pull, they hosed up the alignment It doesn't pull. The wheel is just off center.
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May 7, 2017 16:50
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VelociBacon posted:It doesn't pull. The wheel is just off center. It should be just a matter of adjusting the tie rods properly. They're probably fine relative to each other, but are both 1/4 inch to the right or something.
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May 7, 2017 17:12
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Anyone? Bueller? here?
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May 7, 2017 17:28
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Thanks. I'll give them a look. I just want sure if there was any brand to avoid, or even just anecdotal evidence anyone had to offer.
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May 7, 2017 18:30
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I have never heard of anyone having a preference as to brand/type/style. They're not really performance parts and I can't see there being too much of a difference. I'd check your local classifieds or maybe see if you can go use an earlier model year's running boards on yours and pick some up at the junkyard?
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May 7, 2017 19:39
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Can someone link me to a decent website to buy a ton of washers for my oil gasket plugs? Scion 2007 TC and Toyota 2014 Prius. I assume they are the same size?b
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May 7, 2017 23:56
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Amazon has 10 packs for $8.66 https://www.amazon.com/Drain-Crush-...il+crush+washer 100 for $23 metal type https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Gas...4JKDV55VRQ&th=1
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May 8, 2017 01:41
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PainterofCrap posted:I replaced the front wheel cylinders about four years ago; no change. Replaced the shoes less than a year ago: I've got an av cert waiting to get something not-salty, just haven't seen anything yet that strikes my fancy. Glad to know it makes someone happpy. With all that it's almost certainly hoses, if you got 'em why not swap 'em on and see? VelociBacon posted:It doesn't pull. The wheel is just off center. How long ago was the rack/alignment? If it was within the last month or so you might be able to sweet-talk them into fixing the centering. Or, I don't know your shop, maybe yelling at them to use the steering wheel lock this time might be the way to go.
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May 8, 2017 01:44
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Anyone have a trick on reducing the gap on iridium plugs? Too tough to do by hand with the coin style tool and I can't seem to find any place that sells those pliers that will gap them for you.
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May 8, 2017 02:51
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ROFLburger posted:Anyone have a trick on reducing the gap on iridium plugs? Too tough to do by hand with the coin style tool and I can't seem to find any place that sells those pliers that will gap them for you. Reorder? I don't think you can change the gap on precious metal plugs. I think it is very likely you would destroy the electrodes attempting to do so.
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May 8, 2017 03:06
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Boys who love boys
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Yeah use copper plugs when tuning to find the best gap and then measure it and order precious metal plugs in that gap.
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May 8, 2017 03:19
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balls. everyone on this tuning site seems to suggest buying iridium and gapping to 20. I'll just buy copper and reorder properly gapped iridium
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May 8, 2017 03:33
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Tap it on the table a bit to close the gap up. I've changed the gap on iridium plugs where the gap was set wrong from the factory for customers before without issue, just don't pry on the electrode if you have to reopen them. And this is the part where our resident spark plug engineer comes in to say why its a bad idea, etc. Edit: To clarify, you probably shouldn't regap a precious metal plug, but it is most certainly possible if you are careful. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:25 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 04:19
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Anyone? Bueller? Find the part # of the oem Toyota accessory. Look on eBay. Sometimes there is a dealer who has that poo poo like 50% off retail
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May 8, 2017 04:31
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So I've noticed my car has been pinging a bit now that it's getting warm again. I know it has a small vacuum leak (which will be fixed when I get paid Tuesday - throttle body gasket, and it's only been bad for a couple of weeks at most), but I looked at OBD2 data tonight, and... long term fuel trim is sitting around -11%, short term was bouncing around between -5 to -15%. So the ECU seems to think it's running a bit rich and pulling fuel? It has the original primary oxygen sensor - think it could be causing this? totalnewbie, you around? 2006 Saturn Ion, 2.2 Ecotec, 170k miles. Pretty much zero oil consumption (1-2 quarts consumed between 8-9k oil changes), if that makes a difference. e: just remembered it has the original MAF too. it's been cleaned once since I owned it with MAF sensor cleaner. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:56 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 07:47
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Is there any way to remove a loose and never sticking clearcoat from a fibreglass canopy? It's been peeling forever and 90% has gone. 30% came off today with a low pressure hose and some more comes off with a light scrub. Sanding is not an option as it's a textured finish (think I dunno, reptile skin. Haven't been able to google a close up image of what aussie ute canopies look like). Is there some sort of solvent that can take it off? I don't care about paint damage as I can respray it, I just can't sand it and there's a few stubborn bits.
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May 8, 2017 13:34
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Tap it on the table a bit to close the gap up. I've changed the gap on iridium plugs where the gap was set wrong from the factory for customers before without issue, just don't pry on the electrode if you have to reopen them. And this is the part where our resident spark plug engineer comes in to say why its a bad idea, etc. Hey, that's me! Your edit is completely correct. ROFLburger posted:Anyone have a trick on reducing the gap on iridium plugs? Too tough to do by hand with the coin style tool and I can't seem to find any place that sells those pliers that will gap them for you. Do you have a set of pin gauges? If not, I recommend against trying to regap precious metal plugs because of the potential for damage to the center electrode when trying to measure the gap itself. Otherwise, there's no tool to regap precious metal plugs. To close the gap, I recommend lightly tapping on the GE with a softer metal or something with a rubber-coated tip. It doesn't take much to move it, so start with a gentle touch. To open the gap, find something with a hole that's not too big and just pry it back. I personally use this thing: http://www.moto1.nz/plug-gap-feeler-gauge-ngk-ngkfg but I have no idea how you'd get one. I don't use the gauge bit of that thing, just the hole. Again, start with a light touch; it doesn't take much to move the gap, especially when you're looking for fractions of a millimeter. But unless you've got some weird plug design, you can almost always find something with the right gap. If you're having trouble, post a PN for the overall design you need and then your desired gap. VelociBacon posted:Yeah use copper plugs when tuning to find the best gap and then measure it and order precious metal plugs in that gap. You'll actually want to avoid tuning with nickel plugs and switching to iridium; the ignitability performance is vastly different between the two designs. Of course, this is not as much of a consideration at high RPMs. If you're tuning a car you plan to drive around, definitely use the plug you plan to use during turning. If you've got a drag car or something then you can probably just use nickel plugs. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:So I've noticed my car has been pinging a bit now that it's getting warm again. Not a mechanic! As in, I have no idea! But, you can check the O2 sensors for damage (harness, etc.) if it's easily accessible but I would fix the throttle body gasket and see how it does before replacing the sensors themselves. If, for example, the leak is causing less air to get into the engine than it expects then that would cause the ECU to pull fuel. Also, it could mess with the MAF sensor because the air going past it may not be the same flow pattern as it expects (due to the leak), throwing off the reading. Anyway, if you think later that you'll need to replace the O2 sensors, you can still do that - it's not like you'll save yourself very much effort doing that when the throttle body gasket is being replaced). totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:57 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 17:35
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So I need to fix the heat/AC blower in my 2011 fusion. My understanding is that I should replace the motor, pigtail connector, and resistor. This is the automatic/dual zone climate control system, are there any brands of parts I should steer towards? This is at least one repair that looks simple enough to do myself
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May 8, 2017 18:00
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totalnewbie posted:Not a mechanic! As in, I have no idea! But, you can check the O2 sensors for damage (harness, etc.) if it's easily accessible but I would fix the throttle body gasket and see how it does before replacing the sensors themselves. If, for example, the leak is causing less air to get into the engine than it expects then that would cause the ECU to pull fuel. Also, it could mess with the MAF sensor because the air going past it may not be the same flow pattern as it expects (due to the leak), throwing off the reading. The sensors are easy to get to, and one of them is already bad (secondary). No codes for the primary sensor. But thanks, I'll try the throttle body gasket first. It's a lot cheaper and I know it needs to be done. I don't THINK the ECU uses the secondary for anything except emissions monitoring, but it needs to be replaced.
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May 8, 2017 21:17
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Oh, well if you know you have a bad post sensor then yeah, that will cause your fuel trim to be way off. As you say, the system monitors catalyst efficiency with the post sensor and if it senses that exhaust is continually rich or lean, it will assume the pre sensor is not working correctly (or is skewed) and change fuel injection to accommodate. However, if your post sensor is bad (e.g. open heater wire) then resistance goes up, signal goes down, and your car will start dumping in fuel because it thinks that you're constantly running lean (despite being rich from the extra fuel). That's a common way for your fuel economy to take a dump from a bad O2 sensor. But negative fuel trim means the ECU is reducing fuel injected, so that's probably caused by your leaky throttle gasket, as not enough air is getting into the engine. Or at least this is what Dr. Google seems to tell me. But engineering and mechanic-ing are not the same thing so take what I've got to say with a grain of salt. It's typically a lot easier to translate spark plug engineering stuff into things useful for a mechanic than O2 sensors, because there's so much system-related stuff when it comes to the O2 sensor.
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May 8, 2017 21:47
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The post cat sensor has damaged wiring from a rodent - the emissions fuse pops as soon as I start the car, so it's unplugged. Even if it was plugged in, only 2 of the 4 wires are still attached to the sensor, and those wires don't have any insulation left. The primary sensor (and wiring) wasn't touched. My fuel economy is still right where it should be though - if anything, it's gone up recently. Part of the engine harness also got chewed on, but AFAIK I got all the damage repaired (except for the pigtail for the secondary sensor, easier to just replace the sensor). tl;dr gently caress it I'm just gonna replace the gasket and secondary sensor before I try to figure anything else out. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 21:57
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These forums have really done a number on my post sensor
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May 8, 2017 22:15
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That could be age too. 
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May 8, 2017 22:22
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