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What is the name of that rubbery black tar caulking that will peel off surfaces cleanly if you go slowly? Will Home Depot or whatever sell tubes of it for a caulking gun?
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May 9, 2017 00:19
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Zero VGS posted:What is the name of that rubbery black tar caulking that will peel off surfaces cleanly if you go slowly? Will Home Depot or whatever sell tubes of it for a caulking gun? There definitely wouldn't be caulking with tar in it but sounds like you're just looking for silicone sealant/caulk.
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May 9, 2017 00:49
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Zero VGS posted:What is the name of that rubbery black tar caulking that will peel off surfaces cleanly if you go slowly? Will Home Depot or whatever sell tubes of it for a caulking gun? Only black substance I can think of right off would be that 3m window weld stuff? Doesn't peel off all surfaces though... Like... Windows...
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May 9, 2017 00:54
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PabloBOOM posted:Only black substance I can think of right off would be that 3m window weld stuff? Doesn't peel off all surfaces though... Like... Windows... Ah, I think that's what it is, it's windshield caulk which is urethane-based instead of silicone. At least it seems like I'm dealing with the same poo poo as it's super strong and hard to pull out compared to say silicone bathroom caulk. They were using it in my Ford Ranger Electric to "glue" all the batteries to the fiberglass battery container.
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May 9, 2017 01:06
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Fo3 posted:Is there any way to remove a loose and never sticking clearcoat from a fibreglass canopy? It's been peeling forever and 90% has gone. So there is only 10% of the clear left? Sounds like you could just give it a little bit more time and keep hosing it. Can you pressure wash it without damaging the rest of the paint more than you want to?
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May 9, 2017 01:10
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Pressure washer was my first guess as well Edit: Mr Clean Magic Eraser `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 01:42 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 01:15
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joat mon posted:... I pulled out the PCM and found this: Platystemon posted:Yeah that’s bad. Preoptopus posted:Bummer man i wasn't gonna go there via online forum but it was on my horizon. It was the PCM. Ordered a rebuilt one from pro-rebuild, plugged it in, and it runs as good as new. So OBD-1 Ford folks, if it runs like crap or not at all, the check engine light is on but you can't pull the codes, and the fuel pump runs continuously with key on, engine off, take a close look at the PCM.
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May 9, 2017 01:47
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Zero VGS posted:Ah, I think that's what it is, it's windshield caulk which is urethane-based instead of silicone. At least it seems like I'm dealing with the same poo poo as it's super strong and hard to pull out compared to say silicone bathroom caulk. I work with lead acid batteries, although not in automotive applications, and there's a certain kind of double sided tape/foam that gets all weird and goopy with age. Could it be that?
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May 9, 2017 02:39
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Pretty sure it's called butyl.
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May 9, 2017 03:57
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Breakfast Feud posted:I work with lead acid batteries, although not in automotive applications, and there's a certain kind of double sided tape/foam that gets all weird and goopy with age. Could it be that? Nah, whatever this was it was put in with a caulking gun. I'm considering putting a coat of Plastidip inside the floor of the fiberglass tub before I put the new batteries in, because I don't want them to slide around and want to protect against moisture, that's what Plastidip is best for right? Edit: This is what I'm working with, also you can see the goop on the inside bottom corners. I removed the mat from the bottom of the tub which had copper loops in it to heat the batteries: 
Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 04:21 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 04:14
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Anyone know a good way to get duck tape residue off rubber parts? My grandma's power windows went out years ago and the windows have been held up with duck tape ever since. Last week we got sick of looking at it and had the motors and regulators replaced. The glass cleaned easy enough with soapy water and a razor blade but the rubber gets more cut than scraped. Tried an awful lot of carb cleaner and it doesn't seem to touch the stuff. Gunk off the rubber keeps sticking to the glass and making it hard to impossible to put the windows up.
dis astranagant fucked around with this message at 06:08 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 06:05
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Try rubbing alcohol. Get some on a paper towel (or a cloth towel you don't care about), rub it in, try to get some of it off with the towel, let it dry, try to scrape it off with something like a spoon or something else that's not sharp. Repeat as needed. Normally Goo Gone is the go-to for adhesive, but it absolutely destroys rubber.
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May 9, 2017 06:08
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As an aside, if you're ever too cheap to have your power windows fixed: Scotch clear duck tape applied to clean windows will last about 3 years.
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May 9, 2017 06:16
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Zero VGS posted:Nah, whatever this was it was put in with a caulking gun. Electronics potting compound? Platystemon fucked around with this message at 06:19 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 06:16
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Tomarse posted:So there is only 10% of the clear left? Sounds like you could just give it a little bit more time and keep hosing it. The 10% of clear coat remaining is the well stuck on bits. I was going to try take it some where with a pressure washer, but the ute is unlicenced so I'm limited to what I can do at home. I was going to respray it before licencing it (some damage around the tail light I need to beat out anyway before I get new tail lights to pass inspection). I guess I can just remove the canopy and store it somewhere and respray it later after going through inspection.
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May 9, 2017 06:17
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Zero VGS posted:Nah, whatever this was it was put in with a caulking gun. My guess would be Silastic.
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May 9, 2017 07:10
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Tomarse posted:I have sprayed with Hammerite too. The hammered one gives a nice metallic finish. Missed this answer, but I didn't forget to clean my spray gun, I did clean it with the thinner recommended by the paint (which isn't brand hammerite, just that style). My question is more, can a gun that has sprayed a silicone paint ever be "safe" to use with other finishes?
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May 9, 2017 11:21
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Zero VGS posted:Nah, whatever this was it was put in with a caulking gun. I'm not sure how far plastidip will go in this application. It's pretty weak as a coating, and if your batteries are moving around (which they shouldn't, but plastidip won't stop them from doing so) they will wear through the coating pretty quick.
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May 9, 2017 12:06
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dis astranagant posted:Anyone know a good way to get duck tape residue off rubber parts? WD-40, followed by alcohol
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May 9, 2017 13:25
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Woo hoo, car service went well, motor feels better to drive, oil changed, filters changed, tyres pumped, new spark plugs, fluids etc. Only 110 quid as well, well chuffed.
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May 9, 2017 13:29
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DeesGrandpa posted:So I need to fix the heat/AC blower in my 2011 fusion. My understanding is that I should replace the motor, pigtail connector, and resistor. This is the automatic/dual zone climate control system, are there any brands of parts I should steer towards? This is at least one repair that looks simple enough to do myself Any ideas on which parts I should look for? Maybe just wander into a parts store and get what's cheapest?
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May 9, 2017 14:53
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The post cat sensor has damaged wiring from a rodent - the emissions fuse pops as soon as I start the car, so it's unplugged. Even if it was plugged in, only 2 of the 4 wires are still attached to the sensor, and those wires don't have any insulation left. The primary sensor (and wiring) wasn't touched. You need this fine product https://www.amazon.com/Honda-4019-2317-Rodent-Tape/dp/B00AJTG3N0 I believe Hyundai Elantra brake fluid sensor wires are a rodent delicacy as well. Trailblazer fuel injector wiring. TASTY TASTY WIRES!
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May 9, 2017 18:23
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Let's say I bring my car to the dealer a week before the warranty expires and instead of replacing the parts I'm having problems with they simply clean them up and regrease them. A few days after getting the car back (now out of warranty) the problem pops up again. Is it normal for the dealer to cover the repair since I first made the complaint while it was under warranty?
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May 9, 2017 18:46
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Yes. You should have a warranty for the work they did - generally 30-90 days in the US - even if the car itself wasn't still under warranty.
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May 9, 2017 19:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yes. You should have a warranty for the work they did - generally 30-90 days in the US - even if the car itself wasn't still under warranty. Thanks, I'll ask them for the details!
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May 9, 2017 23:10
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Anyone ever replace the ac clutch bearing on a 90's chevy? My 94 s10 needs it, and I wanted to know if a special tool is required to remove the pulley, or if I'll be able to do it with a traditional gear puller. Also where I can pick up a cheap dye set for our shop press.
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May 10, 2017 03:37
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Do any of you live in IL? I live in IL and i'm planning buy a car in Indiana in a few days, a private sale. The dude still owes money on this car and I am taking out a loan from the same bank, for the same amount he owes. That will be his payoff, right, so I am paying his account to get the title and start my loan. Plus he'll get some more $ from a cashier's check that I'll bring to get us to the final sale price. I'm a bit lost now on driving the car home and registering it. I'll have a bill of sale, some loan info bullshit from the bank, insurance whatever, the registration from my old car (which I haven't sold yet)..... should I bring the plates from my old car, to at least get the thing back home? Am I hosed if I get pulled over? I'm not going to have the title on this drive home, the bank will still have it and said they'll mail it to me a few days later. I am real dumb so bear with me 1) Can I drive home unregistered with no title? Will I get arrested & hosed or is there a grace period/leniency? I am dead set on only going to Indiana once (it's far, not an hour) and I'm also not buying the car sight unseen. 2) Why is the bank even mailing me the title? Shouldn't they just change themselves and keep it? I mean the same bank is going to own the stupid thing. 3) Can I register the car in IL before the title arrives? Seems like no from their website, but can I at least get something temporary? Or do I keep using my old car and not sell it until the title comes etc. Thanks
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May 10, 2017 04:09
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You...what? You get the title because you took out a signature loan on it, it sounds. The bank doesn't care about the car, they care about the money now. You can get insurance immediately on your phone from any company by giving them the VIN. There are even apps that do this. I added my bus (bought in OR, drove to AZ) to my Progressive account right there in the OR DMV. I was in the DMV because... The local DMV can issue you a travelers permit that usually sticks in the back window. They'll require proof of insurance to do so. Use thay to drive home. I think IL's is good for 72 hours. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...OXJhrk3-S6K1fDg Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:29 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 04:15
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Satellit3 posted:1) Can I drive home unregistered with no title? Will I get arrested & hosed or is there a grace period/leniency? I am dead set on only going to Indiana once (it's far, not an hour) and I'm also not buying the car sight unseen. Someone who knows IL law specifically is going to have to chime in on the details, but over here in California, the way it works is this: 1) If it was properly registered to the old owner, you have a (30 day?) grace period to get it legal in your name. However, here the license plate stays with the car, not the driver, so I don't know how that detail works out. 2) You'll need to take the title to the DMV to register it in your name, even though really it's the bank's. They'll (probably) be named as a lienholder on the title, i.e. the title can't be transferred until they sign off on it. But you'll still need the signed-off title from the previous owner to do the paperwork to get it in your name at the DMV. 3) Nope, you need the signed title in order to transfer ownership. But you should be able to drive the car in the mean time, because of that grace period. Make sure you have insurance on it, though. Yes, you can insure cars you don't legally own. Again, your situation might differ significantly from what I've posted here, since you're 2/3 of the country away. So I hope I'm not too far off! E: The temp permit gierskogul mentioned is a good idea if you are without plates/registration. Dunno how that works!
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May 10, 2017 04:18
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It's usually an option to transfer the plates with the car or get new ones. I always get new ones to ensure there's no confusion. You can get a 30-day temp tag while the paperwork is being processed. The DMV won't give a rip about the old registration or plates. All they need is the title. Sometimes a bill of sale is the purchase price is significantly less than the average market value. Check the DMV site in IL to see the exact details about registering a car there.
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May 10, 2017 04:29
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God this sucks and I am a dumbass when it comes to anything car related so forgive me. 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5 sl. About 30 minutes ago I feel like my transmission hosed up on me. Heading up a hill my car couldn't make the shift from first to second (automatic transmission) and it just started chugging forward and backward. Luckily I was able to make it home as I was just down the hill from there and could kind of roll to the house. There was a slight sweet burning smell when I got out of the car. I'm assuming it's impossible to gauge without seeing it but how hosed am I? Is this at all a common thing that could easily be resolved with a change of the transmission oil or am I literally looking at at least 2 grand to fix the fucker? I bought it about 8 years ago and the dealer said they had put a new transmission in it then. I have put about 55,000 miles on it in that time frame. I seriously don't know anything about cars so please forgive the vague if not stupid post. Also what are things I should ask about/prep myself for at the shop in order to not be completely boned or ripped off?
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May 10, 2017 05:16
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:You...what? You get the title because you took out a signature loan on it, it sounds. The bank doesn't care about the car, they care about the money now. FWIW, I didn't get the title on my car until I paid it off, though I did buy it from a dealer (and financed through them), and the dealer mailed me the plates a couple of weeks later. They printed a temporary tag when I picked up the car. This is one of those things that varies from state to state, and even depending on your bank, but like others said, you may be able to get a temp tag from the DMV.
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May 10, 2017 06:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:Missed this answer, but I didn't forget to clean my spray gun, I did clean it with the thinner recommended by the paint (which isn't brand hammerite, just that style). My question is more, can a gun that has sprayed a silicone paint ever be "safe" to use with other finishes? I've got 2 different types of fakerite here and one is water based acrylic and the other is xylene based (so cellulose). What is in the one you have found? I don't think you have an issue swapping paint types as long as you clean it all properly and spray some thinners thru first each time you change so as to stop and contamination of the actual paint
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May 10, 2017 09:52
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:FWIW, I didn't get the title on my car until I paid it off, though I did buy it from a dealer (and financed through them), and the dealer mailed me the plates a couple of weeks later. They printed a temporary tag when I picked up the car. I thought he got a signature loan to pay off the otger guy's bank vehicle loan. Therefore, he'd get the title, as a signature loan is just to the person. The fact they share a bank is irrelevant. Unless he got an auto loan to buy a used car at private sale, which is weird?
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May 10, 2017 10:23
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Depends on the car. I certainly financed my Sting Ray.
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May 10, 2017 14:50
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It sounded more like he was using the car as collateral for the loanSatellit3 posted:2) Why is the bank even mailing me the title? Shouldn't they just change themselves and keep it? I mean the same bank is going to own the stupid thing.
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May 10, 2017 17:15
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UK AI folks: what's the best way to maximise income from scrapping a car? I've got a Ford Mondeo TDI estate sitting doing nothing. Front drivers side spring is snapped, and it needs work done on the control arms, front brakes, and a few other things. I'll be moving to London, and won't need it. It's SORNed, and on private land, so it's costing me nothing. Never had to do this before - any advice?
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May 10, 2017 18:38
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I got a leaky M5R2 manual transmission in my 1988 Ford F150. It's been sitting in my driveway for the past month and I see a dark red drop on the back bottom of it. How big of a pain in the butt is that to fix? How about a leaking power steering system? Basically, my truck leaks everywhere. So far I've fixed the fuel, coolant and oil systems, even the wiper system. I'll probably need to drop the tranny anyway. My clutch pedal is slow to come back up and it might be the concentric slave cylinder. While I'm at it, what's the best way to clean off all the grime from all these different leaks? I've been wiping everything down with those thick blue paper towels.
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May 10, 2017 19:52
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Can someone talk me out of this? I offered the guy 5k and he accepted. http://www.ebay.com/itm/172668142357?ul_noapp=true#viTabs_1 It seems like the only thing I can think of is the 4-speed SROD transmission. I dont plan on giving the car any more power though, should I stay away?
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May 10, 2017 20:39
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Jeherrin posted:UK AI folks: what's the best way to maximise income from scrapping a car? I've got a Ford Mondeo TDI estate sitting doing nothing. Front drivers side spring is snapped, and it needs work done on the control arms, front brakes, and a few other things. I'll be moving to London, and won't need it. It's SORNed, and on private land, so it's costing me nothing. Try sticking it on ebay with an honest description? Someone might want it
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May 10, 2017 23:14
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