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What I did to keep skunks out of my back yard was buy some rubberized wire mesh -- basically a 1-2" grid of rubber-coated wire. Bury one edge and staple the other to the fence, and nothing bigger than a rat will be getting through.
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May 8, 2017 00:04
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I want to secure my computer desk to the wall to stop it from wobbling. I could just screw it into studs with small L brackets underneath the desk but it would lose effectiveness once screwed/unscrewed a few times, I think. Some kind of latch or captive nut thing, maybe? I don't mind messing up the drywall because that desk isn't going anywhere anytime soon, but I want to be able to move it for cleaning and stuff.
internet inc fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 15:04
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My new house has a fenced in back yard, so we want to get a dog but I need to do some dog proofing so he won't try to escape. I figure that's the best way to do it, right? It's a wooden fence on half, the other half is a neighbors chainlink fence, so I can just patch the gaps with that stuff.
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May 8, 2017 15:57
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I want a 2nd story balcony/porch/deck but no contractors seem to return my calls when I leave them messages about it. Is it that hard to build a 2nd story 6' or 8' x 10' or 15' balcony/porch/deck?
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May 8, 2017 18:48
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Another entry in the annals of cascading repair jobs My upstairs bathroom (1950's rambler) had a regular window right in the shower. Bought the house two years ago and planned on doing renovation work for a while, including removing that window. (I've done this before) Taking down the drywall this weekend revealed that there were a half-dozen fist-sized holes through the exterior wall/sheathing that I could touch the Tyvek and vinyl siding from indoors. Drywall fine, vinyl fine, tyvek/wrap fine. When I went outside to remove the vinyl I found the two 8x4 sections of wall/sheathing had a dozen or more of these holes. And some water damage (No real surprise in a shower window). I snapped a picture of the first few before touching them. You can see some of the water damage to the left of the window, I was focused on the holes at first.  Between the holes and the water, the walls were falling apart. I poked at them and they crumbled. Great. So I pulled more of the siding down and found more holes. In all, about 75% of the two sections came down with just my hands. I had originally thought that I could just replace the wall but I ran into some difficulty at the top where the wall goes behind the soffit. You can see it from the inside but it's covered from the outside: Here's the interior view. The brown wall is the original and extends beyond what I can reach from the outside:  Here's the outside view where the temporary board ends and the soffit begins:  And here's a cross-section drawing:  I immediately stopped what I was doing, attached some temporary boards, and started calling repairmen. This is the building season in the Upper Midwest so everyone is booked solid for a while. I have managed to get two people coming by to take a look at it today and tomorrow, so there's light at the end of this tunnel one way or another. If I can't get anyone to fix this ASAP, does anyone have any suggestions?
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May 8, 2017 19:33
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internet inc posted:I want to secure my computer desk to the wall to stop it from wobbling. I could just screw it into studs with small L brackets underneath the desk but it would lose effectiveness once screwed/unscrewed a few times, I think. Some kind of latch or captive nut thing, maybe? I don't mind messing up the drywall because that desk isn't going anywhere anytime soon, but I want to be able to move it for cleaning and stuff. Depends on what you want to detach. If it's the desk from the bracket, try t-nuts (or other threaded inserts for wood) in the desk. https://www.amazon.com/T-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=16410131 If it's the desk and bracket from the wall, maybe threaded drywall anchors, a molly bolt or a snap toggle. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html Personally, I think it'd be easier to detach the desk from the bracket than from the wall.
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May 8, 2017 19:38
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The soffit is probably mounted to that section of paneling, so I don't see how you can remove the paneling without opening up the soffit somehow. There's probably a nailer 2x2 running along the wall to give the soffit paneling something to attach to. So you'll need to open the soffit up and remove sections of that nailer before you'll be able to remove the paneling. Also, that sucks, you have my sympathies. I hope you got the house cheap.
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May 8, 2017 19:39
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I need to figure out the best products/methods to clean my incredibly gross windows, particularly the frame. I live in a third floor walkup with double-hung windows, and until super recently I had no idea that they could open inward for cleaning (I grew up in a very old house). I'm very jazzed to finally do this now that it's warm, but my regular level of cleaning acumen isn't gonna cut it. They have definitely not been cleaned outside in at least four years, and I live in NYC overlooking a busy street, so they are COVERED in sooty grime. When I open the windows and touch the outside part of the metal frame, my fingers come away black. And even when I try to clean the inside parts of the frame (which also get grimy because they're not totally airtight), I can never get them completely clean. So I'm gonna need a new product and/or technique in order to get these window to an acceptable state. The first thing that came to mind was products used to clean the tailpipes of cars (for the metal, not the glass). But I don't know if that's a bad idea or if there's an easier or cheaper way to go about this.
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May 8, 2017 20:56
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showbiz_liz posted:I need to figure out the best products/methods to clean my incredibly gross windows, particularly the frame. I live in a third floor walkup with double-hung windows, and until super recently I had no idea that they could open inward for cleaning (I grew up in a very old house). I'm very jazzed to finally do this now that it's warm, but my regular level of cleaning acumen isn't gonna cut it. Simple green if you don't have calcium buildup.
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May 8, 2017 21:31
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showbiz_liz posted:I need to figure out the best products/methods to clean my incredibly gross windows, particularly the frame. I live in a third floor walkup with double-hung windows, and until super recently I had no idea that they could open inward for cleaning (I grew up in a very old house). I'm very jazzed to finally do this now that it's warm, but my regular level of cleaning acumen isn't gonna cut it.
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May 8, 2017 21:33
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H110Hawk posted:Simple green if you don't have calcium buildup. Takes some elbow grease cleaning exhaust but I've used it a lot in generator rooms etc that get a lot of soot for sure
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May 8, 2017 21:37
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And a good razor scraper for the glass if it's not coming off easily. No reason to work harder than necessary.......
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May 8, 2017 21:39
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shovelbum posted:Takes some elbow grease cleaning exhaust but I've used it a lot in generator rooms etc that get a lot of soot for sure Exhaust systems themselves have their byproducts effectively "fired" onto them like you would glaze ceramics. A window is just general crud, grease, and time. Remember that you are inhaling all that crap as well.
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May 8, 2017 22:23
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internet inc posted:I want to secure my computer desk to the wall to stop it from wobbling. I could just screw it into studs with small L brackets underneath the desk but it would lose effectiveness once screwed/unscrewed a few times, I think. Some kind of latch or captive nut thing, maybe? I don't mind messing up the drywall because that desk isn't going anywhere anytime soon, but I want to be able to move it for cleaning and stuff. I figured some kind of bracket with a stud would allow you to put a plate on the desk and slide it onto the stud and put a nut on to hold it. You can install and remove as often as you like. Turns out L-brackets with studs built on aren't common, but looks like undermount sink clips will do the job; stud to wall, bracket to desk, wingnut to hold when in use. This kind is designed to secure with epoxy, but just nail through the flange and you should be good: https://www.amazon.com/Undermount-Sink-Clips-Brackets-Supports/dp/B00YO4TNME Here's some other styles: https://www.braxton-bragg.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/store7catalog.level/bc/0,6760/ This won't let me link the image without hotlinking so just change httpX to https: httpx://www.chemical-concepts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/i/sink-clip.jpg edit: My google-fu was failing; I got the results I wanted after 2 more seconds: https://www.google.com/search?q=plate+with+stud&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQoJeBwOHTAhUr94MKHXuwCuwQsAQIJg&biw=1600&bih=909
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May 9, 2017 00:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The soffit is probably mounted to that section of paneling, so I don't see how you can remove the paneling without opening up the soffit somehow. There's probably a nailer 2x2 running along the wall to give the soffit paneling something to attach to. So you'll need to open the soffit up and remove sections of that nailer before you'll be able to remove the paneling. I went into the attic and that's what it is. Also one of the family business carpenters came by and said that if I flatten the original and fit them together better he sees no problem with it and it would pass inspection. He actually checked out my permits before talking to me. He quoted me $1500 to do the soffit + ledge removal and new sheet installation if I wanted to go that route. (The tyvek/house wrap and reinstalling the vinyl would be left for me to do.) The house both came cheap and has been a very good house thus far. The previous owner was sort of a lovely handyman but they seemed like a nice couple and had lived here 60 years.
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May 9, 2017 03:10
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Jerk McJerkface posted:My new house has a fenced in back yard, so we want to get a dog but I need to do some dog proofing so he won't try to escape. I figure that's the best way to do it, right? It's a wooden fence on half, the other half is a neighbors chainlink fence, so I can just patch the gaps with that stuff. My fenced backyard works really well with my dogs but they're not diggers. Some dogs will escape just about anything so keep that in mind when you first turn him loose. Also mine escaped three times through small gaps before I got it (I think) pretty much escape proof. It was either loose chainlink near the ground/posts or wide gaps in wooden boards. Brute Squad posted:Depends on what you want to detach. Yep, that makes a lot of sense! I'll leave the brackets in place and use those t-nuts. Thanks. E: mr.belowaverage posted:I figured some kind of bracket with a stud would allow you to put a plate on the desk and slide it onto the stud and put a nut on to hold it. You can install and remove as often as you like. Turns out L-brackets with studs built on aren't common, but looks like undermount sink clips will do the job; stud to wall, bracket to desk, wingnut to hold when in use. This is also great and definitely the kind of thing I envisioned. I'll mess around with the 2 methods and see what works best. internet inc fucked around with this message at 04:21 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 04:18
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Is there a standard width I should go with while I am building my fence for entry gate and then a large gate to get vehicles and such in should the need arise? I am at that point in my fence build of setting posts where the gates will be.
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May 9, 2017 19:30
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everdave posted:Is there a standard width I should go with while I am building my fence for entry gate and then a large gate to get vehicles and such in should the need arise? I am at that point in my fence build of setting posts where the gates will be. Personally, I wouldn't build any gate that isn't big enough to fit a fridge or washing machine through.
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May 9, 2017 21:00
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I am redoing my master bath and I have a pretty bad dip right next to where the shower pan is. The floor joists are all level just the sheeting here dips between. Should I use some self leveling stuff or put some more plywood ontop? I am planning on laying down some Ditra then some porcelain tile. 
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May 9, 2017 21:26
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What's the thickness of your underlayment? What size tile are you using? If you have sufficient underlayment thickness given your joist spacing and thickness (1/2" ply at a minimum usually) then I'd just lay your ditra and float out the tile a bit to level the floor assuming it's not mosaic tile.
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May 9, 2017 21:36
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stupid puma posted:What's the thickness of your underlayment? What size tile are you using? If you have sufficient underlayment thickness given your joist spacing and thickness (1/2" ply at a minimum usually) then I'd just lay your ditra and float out the tile a bit to level the floor assuming it's not mosaic tile. The plywood there is 3/4", joists are 16" on center. Tiles are 13" squares 1/4" thick. The old floor was a super thick mud job and I think the weight of it all bowed out that wood. I would like to at least level the area where the shower pan goes to. Floating some thin set would be OK in this case?
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May 9, 2017 21:49
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Lladre posted:The plywood there is 3/4", joists are 16" on center. Tiles are 13" squares 1/4" thick. That's unlikely. I'd put some self-leveling mix down in the area first, then go over it with hardi-board, or if you're so sold on it, Ditra. I'm not familiar with it, is it for floors that have a lot of movement or something?
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May 9, 2017 22:00
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I'm not an expert but I've tiled 5 floors, 4 with Ditra. 2 with unlevel flooring like this. With tile that big I'd just float it out, personally. With tile that big you'll probably be back buttering anyway so I'd just put some extra on and put a level on it. Sounds like your underlayment is adequate so at this point it's just a cosmetic issue, unless you're concerned about something else. I haven't done a shower pan before (I'm in the process of doing my first Schluter shower kit currently) so I won't weigh in on anything in relation to the shower.
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May 9, 2017 22:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's unlikely. I'd put some self-leveling mix down in the area first, then go over it with hardi-board, or if you're so sold on it, Ditra. I'm not familiar with it, is it for floors that have a lot of movement or something? Ditra is an uncoupling membrane so you're exactly right - it's good for floors with movement. I use it because with the Ditra and thinset it's only 1/4" high and you can put right over plywood. Helps to match up transitions by 1/4" as you don't have to lay down .5" of cement board. In bathrooms it's also nice because it's completely waterproof aside from the seams.
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May 9, 2017 22:15
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This is the ceiling light box in my son's room. I want to to put a celling fan there. The box is a little too small to use the bracket included with the fan. I could just use a crossbar adapter to attach it. But then I started wondering if it was safe to hang a fan from that box. Also the fan came with two long wood screws that you can use to attach the bracket but I can't seem to find a joist to attach it to which seems wired to me since the light box itself has to be attached to something? I'm probably going to go with the crossbar as I've attached ceiling fans isn't using them before with no issue but just curious what the group's thoughts are on all that before I go to the trouble of hanging it. 
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May 10, 2017 00:30
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stupid puma posted:Ditra is an uncoupling membrane so you're exactly right - it's good for floors with movement. I use it because with the Ditra and thinset it's only 1/4" high and you can put right over plywood. Helps to match up transitions by 1/4" as you don't have to lay down .5" of cement board. In bathrooms it's also nice because it's completely waterproof aside from the seams. Ditra also sells small and large rolls of membrane to waterproof your walls and corners. The ditra shower kits are expensive but are really quick to install so you save a bit on labor. Plus the grade to the drain is already perfect. I think the modest sized kits are around $600.
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May 10, 2017 03:21
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's unlikely. I'd put some self-leveling mix down in the area first, then go over it with hardi-board, or if you're so sold on it, Ditra. I'm not familiar with it, is it for floors that have a lot of movement or something? stupid puma posted:Ditra is an uncoupling membrane so you're exactly right - it's good for floors with movement. I use it because with the Ditra and thinset it's only 1/4" high and you can put right over plywood. Helps to match up transitions by 1/4" as you don't have to lay down .5" of cement board. In bathrooms it's also nice because it's completely waterproof aside from the seams. I already have the Ditra and like Stupid Puma said, it doesn't raise the floor as much and has the benefit of making the place mostly waterproof. I found a seven pound bag of self leveling stuff over at Home Depot (it's a small bathroom and a small area that's bowed), going to put that down tomorrow. I wouldn't even stress it if it wasn't pitching the wrong way for the pan.
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May 10, 2017 03:24
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Lladre posted:The old floor was a super thick mud job and I think the weight of it all bowed out that wood. maybe they notched the joists. have you noticed any missing windows in that bathroom?
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May 10, 2017 04:10
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SoundMonkey posted:maybe they notched the joists. have you noticed any missing windows in that bathroom? It's a small 8*6 bathroom with a window. All the joists are fine. It is bowed just in that one area, which is odd since it was dry and not any different from the rest of the floor. I did want to move the toilet to where the sink is and move the sink over so I could have a better spot for the shower. However unlike OP, cutting into the joists was not on the table. I wouldn't even post about it except it slopes the wrong way for 16-18 inches of where the shower pan is going to be and it requires a level floor.
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May 10, 2017 16:45
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Fermented Tinal posted:Just wanted to say thanks again guys, the hangers are gonna run me under a hundred bucks and now I only need to buy one 2x8. My order comes in in about two weeks and if I remember to I'll post some pictures of my repair work for your criticism. This reminds me of when people go to excavate their foundation to fix something and the whole house just collapses. I can't find videos right now, but here's a great diy home foundation story
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May 10, 2017 17:27
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vulturesrow posted:This is the ceiling light box in my son's room. I want to to put a celling fan there. The box is a little too small to use the bracket included with the fan. I could just use a crossbar adapter to attach it. But then I started wondering if it was safe to hang a fan from that box. Also the fan came with two long wood screws that you can use to attach the bracket but I can't seem to find a joist to attach it to which seems wired to me since the light box itself has to be attached to something? Since no one answered, boxes are usually attached to a joist on one side. I can't see any from the picture so it may be hidden by the angle. That will give you some wood to attach the fan to. I wouldn't hang a fan just from drywall. It's a lot heavier than a light fixture and you have the motion of the motor.
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May 10, 2017 17:44
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Lladre posted:Since no one answered, boxes are usually attached to a joist on one side. I can't see any from the picture so it may be hidden by the angle. Yeah they're not perfectly balanced it can gnaw its way through drywall pretty good.
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May 10, 2017 17:46
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vulturesrow posted:This is the ceiling light box in my son's room. I want to to put a celling fan there. The box is a little too small to use the bracket included with the fan. I could just use a crossbar adapter to attach it. But then I started wondering if it was safe to hang a fan from that box. Also the fan came with two long wood screws that you can use to attach the bracket but I can't seem to find a joist to attach it to which seems wired to me since the light box itself has to be attached to something? Isn't that a joist to the left of that box in the picture? Anyway, you need to use an old work ceiling box that's fan rated, either one with the backer bar (might be hard to get the new box to line up to the old drywall hole), or one with big rear end screws that screw into the joist. Don't worry, you can usually install them without going up into the attic, but you will need to remove the old box first. Remove that wire clamp first, then jam a big rear end flathead screwdriver in between the joist and box. Pry around to make a gap big enough to stick a saw blade in. Next, use a compact hacksaw or an oscillating tool to cut through both nails holding the box to the joist. Poke the cable through the hole in the box and you should be able to maneuver the box out the hole in the ceiling. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 19:12
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kid sinister posted:Open the cabinet underneath. Do you see the lifter arm on the back of the drain? Unscrew the nut holding it onto the drain. With one hand hold the stopper in the proper orientation in the drain, then with your other hand try and thread the lifter arm through the hole on the bottom of the stopper. You'll be doing most of this by touch. It helps if you have long arms. Once you got it threaded, tighten back up the lift arm nut. Mom helped me finally fix this during a visit today by looking down the drain while I was under the cabinet. The part of the lifter arm that extends into the drainpipe had in fact rusted away, but the parts kit was only $7.50 at Ace. The drain line and the socket/cup thing must be some non-standard size, because I had to take 1/8" off the new arm with a bench grinder (or else it wouldn't let the ball seat), plus I had to double up on washers and re-use the old collar to get a good seal, but it now works, doesn't leak, and I let the plunger rest on the arm instead of threading it through one of the holes so now I can just lift out the plunger to clear the drain instead of having to take the whole ball/collar/arm assembly off. Belated thanks for your assistance!
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May 10, 2017 21:05
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hogmartin posted:I let the plunger rest on the arm instead of threading it through one of the holes so now I can just lift out the plunger to clear the drain instead of having to take the whole ball/collar/arm assembly off. You're assuming the stopper won't rotate. You're going to have a real fun time picking it up when it does. That's what the holes are for.
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May 10, 2017 22:47
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vulturesrow posted:This is the ceiling light box in my son's room. I want to to put a celling fan there. The box is a little too small to use the bracket included with the fan. I could just use a crossbar adapter to attach it. But then I started wondering if it was safe to hang a fan from that box. Also the fan came with two long wood screws that you can use to attach the bracket but I can't seem to find a joist to attach it to which seems wired to me since the light box itself has to be attached to something? Is this upstairs/ceiling open in an attic? You can pull that old box and just throw in a fan box (with the cross bar). There are "old work" boxes that can do that, but the new work ones are easier to install if you can get at it from above.
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May 11, 2017 00:43
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Ok guys, I'm all for doing things myself but here I'm not sure what I'm looking at and not sure what to do since my experience is more in cars than house projects. So in my garage, there are a couple walls where I'm seeing the drywall get a little damp and discolor when it rains. See below by the red gas cans. This is on a brick exterior wall with a sidewalk right outside.   The black stuff feels like dense foam or something and is able to move around a bit. Anyway, I took off the molding and cut into the drywall to see what was going on.  As you move from the back of the garage towards the garage door, it seems to get more wet, but I'm not sure where it's coming from and what to do to address it. It seems like there's concrete block on both the wall side and the floor, but there's a gap where they're butted up together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XU9sQP9zzw Where should I go from here? What do you see that my unknowing eyes do not? I was hoping that they just ran the drywall to the floor under the molding instead of leaving a gap and it was the concrete wetting it. Yeah, there are those pieces of wood every few feet for some reason (to fill the gap on the molding from the studs/drywall?) that are wet but not sure if that's the real issue here. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 00:58 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 00:54
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kid sinister posted:You're assuming the stopper won't rotate. You're going to have a real fun time picking it up when it does. That's what the holes are for. I've rotated it through a full 360º. There's a 'saddle' that it rides on; if it gets misaligned, it'll just ride up higher and won't close. In any other position, it works fine.
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May 11, 2017 01:04
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Larrymer posted:Ok guys, I'm all for doing things myself but here I'm not sure what I'm looking at and not sure what to do since my experience is more in cars than house projects. So in my garage, there are a couple walls where I'm seeing the drywall get a little damp and discolor when it rains. See below by the red gas cans. If that spot by the gas cans is the only damp spot, I'd check the windows. By far the most likely explanation IMO is that there's a leak somewhere in the window framing or flashing or something that's allowing water in, and it's dripping down the wall and collecting at the bottom. If you're getting dampness all along the wall, then that's a less likely explanation. 
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May 11, 2017 01:50
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If that spot by the gas cans is the only damp spot, I'd check the windows. By far the most likely explanation IMO is that there's a leak somewhere in the window framing or flashing or something that's allowing water in, and it's dripping down the wall and collecting at the bottom. Mostly at the bottom, some places away from the window. There's a few random spots that aren't on the bottom either, just circular spots in the lower part of the wall that look like damp drywall. There's another recent spot near an old milk box (whatever it's called, where the milk man would put your milk where there's a door outside and inside that's since been "sealed" off), and on another interior wall near the floor. The brick was repointed before we bought a house a couple years back but there are still some small holes here and there missing mortar. They don't really correlate to where the dampness is inside though so I'm not sure where it's coming from. What would you do in my position?
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May 11, 2017 03:00
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