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Battered Cankles posted:Metal studs don't have the holding power of wood for simple idiots who need to hand something on a wall and can't use a drywall anchor. Good point. It's only one wall that would be metal studs, so anything heavy we could easily hang on the other 3. How do you vacuum ducts? Is it expensive? It's a good idea. NoSpoon posted:Do you need two means of egress from a bedroom in your location? Is it possible with your basement setup? Yep. Stairs and a doorway to the garage which leads outside. glynnenstein posted:I work in commercial buildings and I think the advantages of metal makes a lot of sense there and I'm used to working with it, but I don't think it makes as much sense in residential if you already have wood construction. I think the typical homeowner is probably more accustomed and equipped to work with wood so metal will have some learning curve. I find using NM in metal kinda tedious compared to wood and it's a little harder to fasten typical residential stuff like trim and moulding. If you plan to hang heavy things from the walls then you want to plan to install backing when you build the walls. Thanks. I looked at some metal stud building videos on youtube, and I actually thought they looked easier than wood. What is NM?
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May 9, 2017 16:16
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Non-metallic cable, also called romex. It's easier and cheaper to work with than BX or conduit if you're allowed to use it but you need to use different fasteners and grommets in metal studs.
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May 9, 2017 16:49
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I've got a Brimnes daybed that I'm using as a double-Twin faux King bed, and I'm not very satisfied by it. Changing sheets is kind of annoying/difficult due to the connected twin setup and the kind of confined/deep mattress height where I have to reach in and pull the mattress up to fit the bedsheets on, which is especially annoying when it's up against the wall. I'm considering ditching one of the mattresses, moving it to the (currently kind of bare for seating) living room, and using it as a substitute for a couch while I get a real bedframe to replace it. For some reason, I'm a bit hesitant to do this - is it considered wasteful to get a different bedframe if I don't like my current one? I'd have to spend some extra money, and it'd be more stuff in my apartment, and I've already got a (not very satisfying but) bigger setup... ...writing this out, it sounds really bizarre to be so hung up over this. I think it's reasonable to want to change up furniture now and then, isn't it? Especially for something like this.
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May 10, 2017 17:12
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You're good. Beds are the most important furniture.
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May 10, 2017 18:37
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Two beds pushed together just isn't as good as a Big Bed. Get something that is easy to disassemble and has space for storage. Maybe even a headboard outlet?!? Our queen Francebed matress is one of our best Big Purchases.
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May 11, 2017 00:06
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Pollyanna posted:I'm considering ditching one of the mattresses, moving it to the (currently kind of bare for seating) living room, and using it as a substitute for a couch while I get a real bedframe to replace it. For some reason, I'm a bit hesitant to do this - is it considered wasteful to get a different bedframe if I don't like my current one? I'd have to spend some extra money, and it'd be more stuff in my apartment, and I've already got a (not very satisfying but) bigger setup... You spend a third to half of your life in bed. For centuries, the bed was the most prized possession in the home. Shakespeare left his second best bed to his wife in his will. A good bed is an investment in good sleep, which directly impacts your health and happiness. Upgrading to a better bedframe if you have the dosh to spare is the foremost upgrade in furniture one should make when they have the money. While you're at it, invest in a good mattress. Behold, the history of the British bedroom to illustrate the importance of beds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_WPeZ9U228
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May 11, 2017 03:07
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Subjunctive posted:You're good. Beds are the most important furniture. peanut posted:Two beds pushed together just isn't as good as a Big Bed. Get something that is easy to disassemble and has space for storage. Maybe even a headboard outlet?!? Suspect Bucket posted:You spend a third to half of your life in bed. For centuries, the bed was the most prized possession in the home. Shakespeare left his second best bed to his wife in his will. A good bed is an investment in good sleep, which directly impacts your health and happiness. Upgrading to a better bedframe if you have the dosh to spare is the foremost upgrade in furniture one should make when they have the money. While you're at it, invest in a good mattress. I feel better about this now.  Is there a particular kind of bedframe that's easy to disassemble? Or just get one that looks simple? The Brimnes daybed is a bitch and a half to disassemble, such that I have no idea how the movers got it up here in the first place when I moved. I saw that one Floyd platform bed and although it looks pretty convenient to lug around, I'm not sure what to think of it. And I'm a big fan of good mattresses, too - that'll be top on my list. Might get this Malm frame with some storage, the storage is super useful.One thing's for certain, next frame I get will definitely have a headboard. I have learned this lesson.  edit: For non-IKEA stuff (which I'm perfectly happy to move on from), this one from Zinus looks pretty good - I like how it's packaged. Unfortunately, I don't know if it comes with a headboard...or if I'll even be able to fit one up here. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 05:55 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 05:44
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Ours is basically a Malm and it's p great except it only has storage on one side which limits room arrangements. My parents had something like a Floyd in their guestroom and I bruised the gently caress out of my shins on the corners the first week I stayed at their place.
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May 11, 2017 10:16
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Yeah, what peanut said. It would take me less than a week to get pissed off at that lip and the bruises it leaves on my shins. Plus the malm has handy storage areas that you might actually use. Someone in the woodwork thread just made their own with a funky feature of an inbuilt shelf with down lights that looked schmick as, and im pretty sure im going to try and steal the idea when I build mine.
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May 11, 2017 13:15
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This makes me wonder how having storage drawers on the same side of the bed as the nightstand is supposed to work. gently caress it, I'll figure it out somehow. If the Malm is a good choice, I can go for it. That Zinus is tempting though, especially since it apparently has a slot for adding a headboard...with that in mind, I don't see why I can't go for it over the Malm. Is there something I'm missing? I wouldn't be surprised if there's a bit of an art and science to choosing a bedframe.
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May 11, 2017 15:00
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Pollyanna posted:This makes me wonder how having storage drawers on the same side of the bed as the nightstand is supposed to work. gently caress it, I'll figure it out somehow. In my experience, poorly. I bought a fancy 4-drawer boxspring and all 4 drawers are hard to open, but the two at the head of the bed are only for long term storage because it's such a nuisance.
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May 11, 2017 15:32
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We don't have a nightstand on the side with the drawers. One drawer holds sheets and pillowcases, the other drawer is full of picture books for babby who sleeps on a futon next to the bed. My phone just gets smothered among the extra diapers and stuffed animals as it charges every night.
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May 11, 2017 15:41
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Pollyanna posted:This makes me wonder how having storage drawers on the same side of the bed as the nightstand is supposed to work. gently caress it, I'll figure it out somehow. Thats why I like the idea of the headboard containing a shelf. No need for nightstands.
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May 11, 2017 15:43
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That's even more space and dosh, though. Nightstand on the non-drawers side works for me.
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May 11, 2017 15:52
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GIS for "pallet headboard" brings up plenty of possibilities... VVV hot dog u cracked it mate peanut fucked around with this message at 03:36 on May 12, 2017 |
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May 12, 2017 02:37
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Pollyanna posted:This makes me wonder how having storage drawers on the same side of the bed as the nightstand is supposed to work. gently caress it, I'll figure it out somehow. 
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May 12, 2017 02:44
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That's clever but still looks like a pain in the dick
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May 13, 2017 06:33
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w00tmonger posted:That's clever but still looks like a pain in the dick Works great. I never have to move the nightstand, drawers come out smoothly and easily, no trouble getting stuff in and out. Highly recommended. What looks like a pain in the dick about it?
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May 13, 2017 12:30
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Subjunctive posted:Works great. I never have to move the nightstand, drawers come out smoothly and easily, no trouble getting stuff in and out. Highly recommended. Getting to the part of the drawer directly under the nightstand
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May 13, 2017 13:55
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The Sexual Shiite posted:Getting to the part of the drawer directly under the nightstand Oh, I haven't had a problem, but I keep linens there mostly. With other stuff, yeah, it could be a bit annoying.
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May 13, 2017 14:25
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Last year I did the bricks, then autumn and winter sapped my interest in the outdoors, but now summer has returned and on sunday I started on the mold for the concrete countertop, this will be 5 meters long: Going to cast it in two sections with as small a seam as I can manage, to reduce the risk of cracks. I also got fiberglass for concrete to mix in as well, I spent all last year looking for acid stain products but cannot find any, it's a US thing, or atleast not a thing in Finland or Sweden. So I will probably add in some pigment when mixing the concrete. Not sure if I want dark gray or something in earth tones... If I could have gotten my hands on acid stain I would have gone with something "coffee" style.
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May 23, 2017 13:20
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drat dude that is an ambitious patio.
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May 23, 2017 23:25
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Thanks, I got lots of garden projects ongoing and planned for the future. I want it this big so we can sit and eat there, cooking on the left, eating on the right. I want to build bar stools later that can be stored underneath the open section. This way I don't have to build a wooden outdoors table that has to be put away for the winter (for which I have no storage room). Last year I put the garden stones down and finished the terrace, this year I have made a tar / linseed / turpentine mixture, tinted with brown and red pigment to get the right color, so we'll treat the whole thing when temperatures start climbing above 18C regularly, it's only like 17C at its warmest now:  Shoulda put something underneath the stones to prevent grass growth! Ants also like to build nests down there, not that we mind ants, comes with living near the forest and they keep other things away, but when they get this close they find their way into the house. After that I suppose it's time to tackle the japanese style pergola / garden swing...
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May 24, 2017 06:34
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I did a quickie project last week because I hate the hose reel, it's always falling over and pissing me off. I had some scrap metal though. 
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May 31, 2017 13:03
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Kawaii ！！(゜ロ゜ノ)ノ We got one of those soft expanding hoses. It's easier than a reel but looks like crap. I'll brainstorm ways to copy your idea.
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May 31, 2017 13:15
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I finally got a shelf for our storage closet. It's already full and I need another one!
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Jun 1, 2017 15:27
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Brick dust makes for good god rays.
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 17:09
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I've got a question that I'm hoping someone here will have more knowledge about than me: I have a gate on the side of my house and I am trying to figure out how to latch it more securely than a metal stake dragging on the concrete walk. The issue I'm dealing with is that the latch would have to mount to the corner of the house and my house has vinyl siding (presumably over clapboards, though I've never taken any siding down to actually check my hypothesis) and there's a void behind the corner trim of at least 1/4"-1/2" before you can feel it hit the solid wood corner board behind it. Now how do I securely fasten a latch to that without warping the siding by screwing straight through it or having to take off the whole corner piece to put a backer in behind it (if that's even possible without damaging it)? Arachnamus posted:Brick dust makes for good god rays. I always like shots of a workspace in use. Are you doing a patio or wall or what?
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Jun 1, 2017 22:26
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Magnus Praeda posted:I always like shots of a workspace in use. Are you doing a patio or wall or what? That room's my kitchen-to-be. The stacks of T&G ply under the mitre saw will be installed upstairs soon (goodbye sunbeams). The ply at the back is covering the opening for the bifold doors. It's being used as a temporary workspace because the entire house has been gutted.
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Jun 1, 2017 22:55
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Magnus Praeda posted:I've got a question that I'm hoping someone here will have more knowledge about than me: Could you drill a hole in the concrete, mount a board to that, and add the latch to the board? That way you're not messing with your siding or attaching the fence directly to the house.
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Jun 2, 2017 12:48
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post
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Jun 2, 2017 13:18
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Is this a reasonable place to ask about pool maintenance? I've been watching YouTube videos, but it's a lot more complicated then I was expecting, and I have questions.
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Jun 2, 2017 15:58
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I have a pool and have kept it from turning into a green poo poo pit for five years or so. Ask away.
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Jun 2, 2017 17:22
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How is measuring the PH different from measuring the alkalinity?
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Jun 2, 2017 17:33
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Squashy Nipples posted:How is measuring the PH different from measuring the alkalinity? You dump in a different white powder to fix it! One thing I recommend is the Pool Time app and test strips. You enter info about your pool and when you dip the strip it tells you how much and what to dump in the pool. Don't buy the supplies from them though, go to Amazon or In the Swim.
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Jun 3, 2017 00:19
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Squashy Nipples posted:How is measuring the PH different from measuring the alkalinity? pH is the acid-base balance, Total Alkalinity is the quantity (in ppm) of dissolved alkaline substances. This difference matters because if you have a balanced pH but a low TA then a small shift in chemistry (from chlorine, gross sweaty goon bodies, etc) can cause a big pH shift. Buffer chemistry can get kind of complicated, but basically you want to make sure your TA is at a level that will give you a stable pH, then balance the pH itself. http://orendatech.com/total-alkalinity-role-water-chemistry/ Also, skip the strips and get yourself a Taylor kit: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-2006-CHLORINE/dp/B004BGF7TI Hubis fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 3, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 02:06
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Strips or kit is a matter of preference, in my opinion. Kits are more accurate, but a time consuming pain in the rear end. I'm content to dip a strip, dump some poo poo in the water, and enjoy the summer. I probably use more chemicals, but the water is fine. Some people prefer to play mad scientist poolside and get it exactly right. Up to you!
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Jun 3, 2017 22:23
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Leviathan Song posted:Could you drill a hole in the concrete, mount a board to that, and add the latch to the board? That way you're not messing with your siding or attaching the fence directly to the house. I'm not sure what you're suggesting, unfortunately. Are you suggesting just putting in a post next to the house? I could, but I'd have to tear up the walk to do so and it would reduce the width of the opening by at least a couple inches and it's already fairly narrow. peanut posted:post Here's some pics I took of the gate this weekend:     You can see that the metal rod doesn't even connect at the bottom of the gate properly anymore (though it wasn't exactly a secure latching mechanism when it did). As for nudes, how about a handsome man laying on his back seductively?  
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Jun 5, 2017 17:20
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Could you use a latch closure affixed vertically somehow? With a block to hold the latch part above, maybe It'd stick out a bit, but I'm not sure that's avoidable without remounting the gate so it can be flush against the wall. E: actually yeah, can you move that fence post back a bit? Then you can just use a normal latch anchored to the house, I think. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 17:28
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Subjunctive posted:Could you use a latch closure affixed vertically somehow? With a block to hold the latch part above, maybe Actually the gate's pretty close to the wall as is. The gate location is not really a problem. The issue is that I'm not sure how to secure anything to the house through the siding--either the vertical corner board or the horizontal "clapboards" (for lack of a better term). It's vinyl siding and it seems to have about 1/4" of air gap between it and the actual wood of the house. Which means if I did attach anything to it, it would either distort the siding or possibly break it. If it was just wood siding, attaching a gate latch to the house would be literally a five minute project but I've never had to deal with vinyl siding before and don't want to gently caress it up.
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Jun 5, 2017 17:55
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