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Alright here's model number 3, using the model type I plan on running the most. I had a lot of fun with this one, spent a lot of time squinting at the details and experimenting to find a look I liked. The rusty coloration Reikland Fleshshade and Liberator Gold give is something I really like, and I decided to only use the Xereus Purple in certain parts of the armor instead of anywhere there's purple. I'm not satisfied with the gun, still need to get the proper paints for it but I wanted something at least presentable. I also decided to make the backpack stand out a little more by putting gold on it. There are a few areas of noticeable gold bleeding over the lines onto the purple, but other than these I'm really really happy and proud of this guy, and I've decided to name him Amadeus. Here he is!    
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May 10, 2017 13:33
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You're making good progress! Already looking much better than my first models... 
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May 10, 2017 13:42
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Munchables posted:Alright here's model number 3, using the model type I plan on running the most. Hot drat! Already looking better. Your control is getting much better. I'm not at all a great painter, but if you'd like some advice I have the following: If you have a fine detail brush, dip it in a bit of Seraphim Sepia wash and run it along a very controlled line near the edges i've marked out here:  You can also dip it along the rivets. This will give the model depth. Seraphim Sepia is darker than your Gold, so it will create darker shade areas along those spots. That's not to detract from your work! You're doing great.
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May 10, 2017 15:49
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Zuul the Cat posted:Hot drat! Already looking better. Your control is getting much better. Thanks guys! I wish I was using a better setup for pictures, because I actually have shade on the rivets that give them a nice rusty look and in the recesses of the armor, but I'll keep that in mind.
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May 10, 2017 20:04
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Munchables posted:Alright here's model number 3, using the model type I plan on running the most. This is good poo poo. You're miles ahead of the last few pictures you posted. From table height that guy is gonna look pretty much perfect. Do a bunch of guys like that and put them next to each other and it'll look awesome. The purple looks good and solid now, not at all streaky like before. Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 21:52
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Zaphod42 posted:This is good poo poo. You're miles ahead of the last few pictures you posted. Thanks! Hopefully I can get the dudes I'm trying to strip to actually strip so I can get a squad painted.
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May 10, 2017 21:54
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I just finished the Canoness and was quite happy how she came out, basic base and all. What do you think.
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May 10, 2017 23:32
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big_g posted:I just finished the Canoness and was quite happy how she came out, basic base and all. What do you think. It's fantastic; nice work.
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May 10, 2017 23:57
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My Scale75 paints came in today (thanks Noble Knight Games!) My first impression is that you have to shake the everloving bajeesus out of them e: My OTHER impression is that they stay active on my palette quite alot longer than any of my Citadel or Vallejo paints, which is something I quite like Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 01:35 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 01:23
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I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance!
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May 11, 2017 01:38
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I have never gotten real-actual primer off with Simple Green. It only takes off paint.
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May 11, 2017 01:50
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Awesome, and way cheaper than I'd of thought. Thanks dude!
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May 11, 2017 02:42
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Munchables posted:I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance! If you're in the U.S., I've found that LA's Totally Awesome (aka this poo poo right here:  ) works pretty drat well. What kind of primer and how thick it is on the mini will determine how long it needs to soak, but usually a good week will get rid of just about anything I've used, even weakening superglue bonds significantly. It's also safe for pretty much any kind of mini, whether plastic, resin, or metal, but it doesn't do a goddamn thing to green/brown stuff (which is a selling point, imo). Best part, that jug and other, smaller bottles, are easily found at dollar stores (specifically Dollar Tree in the northeast US).I will say, though, if you're using metal models, just cut the middleman out and drop then into straight acetone. poo poo's strong enough to eat through any paint and primer within minutes. However, it will literally melt any plastics and severely deform/melt resins (depending upon the exact composition), so unless you want some do-it-yourself plague marines stick to metal models only.
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May 11, 2017 04:04
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Nebalebadingdong posted:My Scale75 paints came in today (thanks Noble Knight Games!) Not even kidding, I've ordered a tiny paint shaker for $40, and some actuators. They also take super well to glaze mediums, and retain their matte finish, if you like glazing, or want to get into it, it's a great range for it. Today I finished my first mini painted entirely with Scale, I'll post some pics up later.
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May 11, 2017 04:38
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Here's some Nurgle dude I did to play with the different colours from Scale.  Some observations; Scale 75 has finally given me the paint finish I've wanted since I started painting. Super matte, super smooth, with no extra effort to get it. Ink is super fun to play with, especially green. I've bought a paint shaker, because gently caress me they need it. Highly recommended!
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May 11, 2017 05:46
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Munchables posted:I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance! All you can really do is give it more time and scrub more. I did get off some primer with simple green but not all of it, but I imagine more time would do the trick. Like probably a week minimum if you went crazy overboard on the primer. Yeast posted:Here's some Nurgle dude I did to play with the different colours from Scale. This is 'eavy metal quality, amazing. So vibrant!
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May 11, 2017 06:01
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Yeast posted:Here's some Nurgle dude I did to play with the different colours from Scale. drat, yeast- you're really knocking it out of the park. Is it all a glaze job?
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May 11, 2017 06:47
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The Impaler posted:drat, yeast- you're really knocking it out of the park. Is it all a glaze job? Thanks man! Nah, not so much on this guy - airbrushed the armour panels and then used the "Inktensity" Green to turn it hyper green. Some glazing on the horns and the skin lesions, but not too much. mainly just brush work.
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May 11, 2017 08:55
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Munchables posted:I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance! Whereabouts in the world are you? If you're in the UK (maybe some other European countries) brown Dettol works pretty well. I've had mixed results with Simple Green, I don't know if they've changed the formula or something but it doesn't really get the job done for me even if I leave stuff soaking for weeks.
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May 11, 2017 10:15
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Zark the Damned posted:Whereabouts in the world are you? If you're in the UK (maybe some other European countries) brown Dettol works pretty well. I'm in the US, so I'll probably try Super Clean or LA's awesome (whatever it's called).
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May 11, 2017 11:06
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Yeast posted:Not even kidding, I've ordered a tiny paint shaker for $40, and some actuators. I am indeed doing some glazing these days. Which medium do you like to use? I've had the same pot of Lahmian for a long time but it's almost out so I can switch
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May 11, 2017 11:38
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Yeast posted:I've bought a paint shaker, because gently caress me they need it. This is a great idea! I have recently started switching over my paints to Scale75 and would be very interested in hearing now useful something like this would be.
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May 11, 2017 12:47
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I am indeed doing some glazing these days. Which medium do you like to use? I've had the same pot of Lahmian for a long time but it's almost out so I can switch I use the Vallejo glaze medium - works well, you need a tiny amount and it lasts forever. Also increases drying time as it has a retarder in it. Lahmian is great for thinning paints, but I struggle to glaze with it as well as the Vallejo, someone smarter than me can explain what's in the Vallejo glaze medium that makes it better. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Val7...jo+glaze+medium Most paints play really well with it, I'm yet to see one that doesn't. Lord_Hambrose posted:This is a great idea! I have recently started switching over my paints to Scale75 and would be very interested in hearing now useful something like this would be. eBay says it should be here in a couple weeks, so until then I'll keep shaking my paints manually like an animal
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May 11, 2017 12:57
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big_g posted:I just finished the Canoness and was quite happy how she came out, basic base and all. What do you think. I think you need to get some closeup shots, because that is a great paintjob. Yeast posted:Here's some Nurgle dude I did to play with the different colours from Scale. Munchables posted:I'm in the US, so I'll probably try Super Clean or LA's awesome (whatever it's called).
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May 11, 2017 13:51
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Munchables posted:I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance! I don't know about SImple Green, but I've had good results with Super Clean - it's an engine degreaser, sold in these big purple jugs. Doesn't stank up the place, safe to handle, and does a hell of a job on chewing up paint while not damaging plastic or metal (although an experimental piece of Finecase resin I tried ended up going all :flaccid_ on me after several days of a soak, so be warned). There's also the  option of going with isopropyl alcohol - this is antifreeze stuff they sell at gas stations for mixing into your fuel. The stuff you want is essentially industrial-grade, near-as-pure-as-they-can-make isopropanol - it's not too expensive, and it softens up the paint on your model in about an hour or so. It's pretty safe to use, too, though of course you want to handle it in well-ventilated areas.
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May 11, 2017 13:57
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Drake_263 posted:I don't know about SImple Green, but I've had good results with Super Clean - it's an engine degreaser, sold in these big purple jugs. Doesn't stank up the place, safe to handle, and does a hell of a job on chewing up paint while not damaging plastic or metal (although an experimental piece of Finecase resin I tried ended up going all :flaccid_ on me after several days of a soak, so be warned). You have to be careful with resin - Super Clean is a degreaser and can damage resin due to the oil content. Resin mixes aren't as stable as actual plastics (ever see "weeping" resin?)
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May 11, 2017 14:08
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Do you know what sort of primer was used on the models? If they are plastic models, I believe there are certain kinds of sprays that will basically bond to the plastic and aren't going to come off no matter what you soak them in and you just have to deal with it.
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May 11, 2017 14:33
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Assuming it wasn't over-primed and that you make sure to really clean all the stripper off of it, would the primer still be okay to use?
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May 11, 2017 14:35
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Assuming it wasn't over-primed and that you make sure to really clean all the stripper off of it, would the primer still be okay to use? Honestly, I'd just slap a new primer on just to be safe. For actual content, I've been toying around with possible color schemes for my 30K Imperial Fists:            I'm currently leaning more towards the more yellow-on-metallic-black schemes on the left over the more traditional 'shitlots of yellow' paintjobs, mainly because gently caress painting all that yellow
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May 11, 2017 14:52
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Getting hyped for Lizardmen in Total War: Warhammer 2, so I painted my first fantasy mini since my 6th ed. Tomb Kings (RIP  ) :    
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May 11, 2017 15:00
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Ashcans posted:Do you know what sort of primer was used on the models? If they are plastic models, I believe there are certain kinds of sprays that will basically bond to the plastic and aren't going to come off no matter what you soak them in and you just have to deal with it. I suspect this may be the problem people are having with Simple Green. All the models I've stripped are metal and primed with brushed-on Vallejo primers, and they've never needed to soak more than a couple hours.
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May 11, 2017 15:08
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Getting hyped for Lizardmen in Total War: Warhammer 2, so I painted my first fantasy mini since my 6th ed. Tomb Kings (RIP looks fantastic! A quick question, I occasionally see bases with foliage sometimes and I was wondering where you found it?
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May 11, 2017 15:27
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Yeast posted:Here's some Nurgle dude I did to play with the different colours from Scale. Holy poo poo dude, you've really outdone yourself on this one.
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May 11, 2017 16:08
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R0ckfish posted:looks fantastic! A quick question, I occasionally see bases with foliage sometimes and I was wondering where you found it? Thanks! If you mean the large plants and stuff it's a mix of games workshop jungle plants (they don't sell them anymore, found a box on ebay) and some stuff from here: http://www.fieldsofglorymodels.co.uk/?s=jungle+plant&post_type=product If you mean the leaf scatter on the ground that's from Secret Weapon, and the lichen stuff is Army Painter summer undergrowth.
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May 11, 2017 16:09
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The lichen stuff is reindeer moss. You can also find it in craft stores for fairly cheap. I've used aquarium furniture plants to some success before. However, you do need to mess with 'em a bit, adding in a few highlights, cleaning up any obvious mold lines, maybe adding a touch of yellow in, that sort of thing. It doesn't take long to have them looking reasonably good.
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May 11, 2017 16:11
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Chill la Chill posted:Assuming primer is used, is there anything that would cause paint that was applied by an airbrush to flake off a mini easily? Would using water instead of a proper thinner/ flow improver do it? Real late on this, but is the primer also flaking off? There might be some mold release residue on the model. If there's a lot of flaking, you might want to consider stripping the models, then giving them a light scrub in warm water with dish soap, then try re-priming when dry. (This is a step I tend to forget myself, especially on metal models. I boil my Bones plastic models, which seems to work in the same way, but hard plastic, resin and metal models all can benefit from a gentle wash.)
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May 11, 2017 16:37
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Yeast posted:I use the Vallejo glaze medium - works well, you need a tiny amount and it lasts forever. Also increases drying time as it has a retarder in it. What Shaker did you buy? Amazon has a seemingly popular one but motor seems to fail sometimes? I like the idea of being a non-savage and having a paint Shaker.
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May 11, 2017 16:47
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Get a Sawzall, the Mixkwik, and the Mix Tube. Never look back. 
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May 11, 2017 17:17
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Getting hyped for Lizardmen in Total War: Warhammer 2, so I painted my first fantasy mini since my 6th ed. Tomb Kings (RIP As someone that's about to start painting a box full of Lizardmans, i'm mightily impressed. What did you use for the stone slab on the base?
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May 11, 2017 17:38
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Zuul the Cat posted:As someone that's about to start painting a box full of Lizardmans, i'm mightily impressed. What did you use for the stone slab on the base? Thank you! It's a resin piece from the old GW deathworld forest basing kit.
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May 11, 2017 17:40
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