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Alokgen posted:Here's hoping Cat Face Joe gets another promotion at work. Love the base and skin tone. It might just be me, it the shading on the front of her stomach looks a little too gray/dark, and kind of looks like a snail trail of hair. (When I zoomed in it looked better, so it might just be my eyes getting confused) How did you do the little waterfalls? Was it just export like the guildball bases?
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May 12, 2017 18:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have two battlewagons. One is significantly lighter than the other. I like how the lighter one looks. Any ideas on how to fix the darker one? Maybe wash/glaze the lighter one to tone it down? I love them both, they are so old-school Epic Ork. Are they offical models? I found yet another way to store paint. I bought one of these crazy things to organize all my nerd stuff: http://www.traevarer.dk/finerkasse-6426 The smaller drawers snugly fit 36 paint bottles. A local maker-space had a laser cutter intro day, and I made this:  Now the bottles stack very nicely:  This way I can just pull out the drawers and arrange them at 45 degrees when I want to do some work. Now I just need to make 8 more and figure out how to mount them in the drawer.
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May 12, 2017 19:39
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Aniodia posted:See, man? I told you, the more you practice, the easier it gets. With you posting each model you're doing, it's clear to see how much you've improved even in such a short amount of time. Actually I love that, thanks for making it! Would it be too risky in terms of thickness to paint the purple in those spots over the gold that's already there? Stripping has become a phobia.
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May 12, 2017 20:05
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HardCoil posted:Maybe wash/glaze the lighter one to tone it down? I love them both, they are so old-school Epic Ork. Are they offical models? The base vehicles are standard BWagons that have been widened. The blades on one are from the Stompam the other one has struts from stompa arms and a roller made from a Tehnolog Chemical Plant tank with spikes added. Pretty awesome overall, kinda wish I had the patience to bisect a BWagon lengthwise to copy this 
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May 12, 2017 20:09
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Is the Fantasy range still ultra-matte? I didn't see any labels claiming it was, so I didn't buy any I just bought the fantasy collection, so I'll let you know once I get some paint to mini. I doubt it's as matte, as the resin is harder to prevent chipping
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May 12, 2017 23:28
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Is the Fantasy range still ultra-matte? I didn't see any labels claiming it was, so I didn't buy any It is not as matte as their normal paints, but still pretty worth using.
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May 13, 2017 01:30
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I guess I should probably learn to properly matte-varnish stuff if I'm gonna use this fancy-rear end paint. I haven't painted a full model with it yet as my colors are still limited, but it is indeed the bees knees
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May 13, 2017 01:33
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HardCoil posted:Maybe wash/glaze the lighter one to tone it down? I love them both, they are so old-school Epic Ork. Are they offical models? I could do that, but I really like the look of the lighter one and would prefer to keep it that way if possible. They're official models in the sense that they started as GW battlewagons. Zark the Damned posted:The base vehicles are standard BWagons that have been widened. The blades on one are from the Stompam the other one has struts from stompa arms and a roller made from a Tehnolog Chemical Plant tank with spikes added. It's really easy. Take the model, build it, cut it in half with a bandsaw, widen it by half an inch, and then patch up the holes with bits of plasticard.
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May 13, 2017 02:01
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Munchables posted:Actually I love that, thanks for making it! Would it be too risky in terms of thickness to paint the purple in those spots over the gold that's already there? Stripping has become a phobia. You'll be fine painting over the gold. Stripping is rarely necessary.
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May 13, 2017 02:07
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I spent close to 3 hours cleaning this table, and I need to take a photo. This will most likely be the last time it's ever this clean again.  
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May 13, 2017 02:09
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MasterSlowPoke posted:You'll be fine painting over the gold. Stripping is rarely necessary. Seconding this. As long as you don't glob the purple basecoat on in an attempt to compensate and cover the gold underneath, you'll be fine. That guy's legs might be a little shinier than his brothers, but I doubt anyone will even really notice or give a drat if they do. Holy poo poo, that's a ton of paints. I mean, yeah, you did just get a bunch of Scale75 stuff, but there's way more there than that. I don't even think I have a third of that in actual mini paints. Thinking about it, I don't even know what I'd do with that many outside of painting with them, obviously.
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May 13, 2017 03:11
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Dr. Phildo posted:Love the base and skin tone. It might just be me, it the shading on the front of her stomach looks a little too gray/dark, and kind of looks like a snail trail of hair. (When I zoomed in it looked better, so it might just be my eyes getting confused) The skin is definitely more on the grey side than I hoped for. Next time I hope I can get into more pinks. The main form and rocks were done with layered cork then covered and sanded with green stuff. For the waterfalls, I cut up a smooth part of a 20oz soda bottle. I used woodland scenics water effects as glue for the archs then brushed on more water effects to create the texture. Then dry brushed white on the ridges. Think I went a bit heavy on the dry brushing. The guildball bases were done using a 2 part epoxy that is better suited for deeper pours. If you're interested in doing something similar, maybe I'll do a tutorial on hem when I get back to working on them. Thanks for the feedback.
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May 13, 2017 03:55
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God the Scale75 paints look fantastic. gently caress. I need to not spend money on this, but, but...
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May 13, 2017 03:56
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Aniodia posted:
Honesly, I'm horribly addicted to paints. I love experimenting with different colours and ranges. It is my meth
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May 13, 2017 05:11
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Yeast posted:Honesly, I'm horribly addicted to paints. I love experimenting with different colours and ranges.
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May 13, 2017 05:37
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Alokgen posted:The skin is definitely more on the grey side than I hoped for. Next time I hope I can get into more pinks. Tutorials about modelling/painting are always welcome! O god I am such a nerd Could covering the greyer part of the shading with a pale pink glaze work? To keep it dark but just a little pinker?
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May 13, 2017 11:54
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Dr. Phildo posted:Tutorials about modelling/painting are always welcome! Probably so. My skin initially had a lot of Ryn Flesh (creamy pink tone from P3) in it then I read about shading with an olive green and deep browns in addition to my base color and it kind of wiped out the pinks. I'm entering this model in a competition today, so ran out of time to be able to go back and work it more.
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May 13, 2017 13:48
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Good luck! I wonder how it looks under different lighting. I think the nmm sword, smoothness of skin and pretty base will work for you
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May 13, 2017 15:59
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I just finished up the entirely too busy but still lovable Terminator Chaplain model today:      Also finished up 10 of Karl Franz's Pyjama Pals:      
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May 13, 2017 23:40
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That Chaplain is awesome.
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May 13, 2017 23:49
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:That Chaplain is awesome. Were you still looking for yellow schemes? Found a pretty great one today: http://dicepoolplays.blogspot.com.au/2016/09/htp-shading-yellow-with-weathering.html?m=1
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May 14, 2017 01:14
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Yeast posted:Were you still looking for yellow schemes? Found a pretty great one today: Wow, that looks great! My tentative plan is to try to go super cheap and see what happens. I'd love any feedback on this: 1. Basecoat with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Gloss Khaki 2. Spray overhead with Gloss Ivory to achieve a zenithal undercoat. 3. Highlight raised edges with VMC Glossy White. 4. Glaze with a thinned application of Liquitex ink! Transparent Burnt Sienna. 5. Highlight extreme edges with VMC Glossy White. 6. Glaze with Liquitex ink! Yellow Orange Azo. 7. Apply VMC Basalt Gray to black areas. 8. Apply VMC Glossy White to highlights of black areas. 9. Glaze black areas with Liquitex ink! Carbon Black. 10. Paint the rest. Thoughts?
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May 14, 2017 01:44
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I'm having some drying issues with my wet pallette. I made it in a tupperware container with parchment paper on top of a paper towel. The paints seem to be drying pretty quickly, even though the paper towel is still soaked, and the parchment paper was barely damp after a few days, even when I replaced it and put in more water. Is it possible I'm spreading the paint too thin on the pallette and I need larger amounts of it on the paper, or do I just need more water underneath?
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May 14, 2017 03:21
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Munchables posted:I'm having some drying issues with my wet pallette. I made it in a tupperware container with parchment paper on top of a paper towel. The paints seem to be drying pretty quickly, even though the paper towel is still soaked, and the parchment paper was barely damp after a few days, even when I replaced it and put in more water. Is it possible I'm spreading the paint too thin on the pallette and I need larger amounts of it on the paper, or do I just need more water underneath? Some parchment paper is too well coated. Try boiling a piece for 2 minutes and see if that improves the ability for water to migrate through it.
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May 14, 2017 03:23
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Munchables posted:I'm having some drying issues with my wet pallette. I made it in a tupperware container with parchment paper on top of a paper towel. The paints seem to be drying pretty quickly, even though the paper towel is still soaked, and the parchment paper was barely damp after a few days, even when I replaced it and put in more water. Is it possible I'm spreading the paint too thin on the pallette and I need larger amounts of it on the paper, or do I just need more water underneath? Is the parchment paper clearly wet? You should see immediately that it becomes damp. I prefer using a sponge over wet paper towels. Might be worth a shot.
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May 14, 2017 03:24
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Munchables posted:I'm having some drying issues with my wet pallette. I made it in a tupperware container with parchment paper on top of a paper towel. The paints seem to be drying pretty quickly, even though the paper towel is still soaked, and the parchment paper was barely damp after a few days, even when I replaced it and put in more water. Is it possible I'm spreading the paint too thin on the pallette and I need larger amounts of it on the paper, or do I just need more water underneath? dexefiend posted:Some parchment paper is too well coated. Try boiling a piece for 2 minutes and see if that improves the ability for water to migrate through it. Yeah its pretty important that you soak the membrane paper in hot water for a good while first. Otherwise it won't be permeable enough for the moisture to pass through.
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May 14, 2017 03:32
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bonds0097 posted:My first painted mini! Just going back a few pages and didn't see you get a reply- I think because you replied to yourself. Most important things you've already addressed (thin your pants!) and starting out, maybe just thin with water. Apart from that, all advice given to Munchables is good stuff (I've watched those Duncan vids for the first time now and am really digging them/kicking myself for not "getting" some basic stuff till now).
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May 14, 2017 04:11
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Dr. Phildo posted:Just going back a few pages and didn't see you get a reply- I think because you replied to yourself. Most important things you've already addressed (thin your pants!) and starting out, maybe just thin with water. Apart from that, all advice given to Munchables is good stuff (I've watched those Duncan vids for the first time now and am really digging them/kicking myself for not "getting" some basic stuff till now). Yeah, Duncan's videos are really helpful for understanding the process and making sure you paint in a way that has the easiest mistakes to correct, and to give you an idea of how the paints will look. The best advice though is definitely thinning. I'm really glad I went out of the way to make the wet pallette because it makes it so much easier to get the right thickness. I usually apply at least 5 or 6 coats of each kind of paint before I'm done, and the details don't get flushed out because of the control I have over the thickness of the paint. Multiple thin coats is 100% the way to go, it's so much easier to add small amounts of paint to reach the right thickness than to try to decrease the thickness already on the model. Edit: Also bonds0097, I hope you keep posting because I'd love to see another new person's progress along with me
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May 14, 2017 04:34
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
Sounds pretty good, I'm assuming you're airbrushing step 4 onto the models? Otherwise hand brushing a glaze over a gloss may be tricky to do without leaving brush marks, but tbh experimentation here will be key. Great process though, post pics!
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May 14, 2017 04:46
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Yeast posted:Sounds pretty good, I'm assuming you're airbrushing step 4 onto the models? Otherwise hand brushing a glaze over a gloss may be tricky to do without leaving brush marks, but tbh experimentation here will be key. I'll probably handbrush the sienna since it's intended to be a shading effect and I'll probably end up focusing on the recesses. Depending on how it looks I might skip a white highlight pass. The yellow ink glaze will almost certainly be airbrushed.
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May 14, 2017 04:57
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:1. Basecoat with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Gloss Khaki Trying to use spray paint instead of primer for this especially multiple layers will probably obliterate your details. I accidentally used some Rustoleum black paint in that same line instead of primer and even at one coat it was noticeably thicker. You might also run into adhesion issues it being gloss and not primer. I think Rustoleum makes a red/brown primer I've commonly seen in stores you could try if you don't want to go black or grey for zenithal priming.
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May 14, 2017 06:00
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I got given some Space Hulk Terminators, and I want to paint them like Deathwing (since when I started collecting in 2nd Edition, Dark Angels were so cool!). I also want to include my chapter colours. The old marines I've got from 2nd/3rd are here: Which of these look better?  I'm leaning towards shoulderpads-only...
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May 14, 2017 12:17
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darnon posted:Trying to use spray paint instead of primer for this especially multiple layers will probably obliterate your details. I accidentally used some Rustoleum black paint in that same line instead of primer and even at one coat it was noticeably thicker. You might also run into adhesion issues it being gloss and not primer. I've never had problems with this brand in the past, but I'll keep this in mind if I run into problems. The paint is marketed as also being a primer, but I agree that the gloss might cause adhesion issues. One way to find out!
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May 14, 2017 12:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I've never had problems with this brand in the past, but I'll keep this in mind if I run into problems. The paint is marketed as also being a primer, but I agree that the gloss might cause adhesion issues. Never not Sandable Auto Primer! I use Grey myself, but black is also quite the popular choice.
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May 14, 2017 14:28
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Southern Heel posted:I got given some Space Hulk Terminators, and I want to paint them like Deathwing (since when I started collecting in 2nd Edition, Dark Angels were so cool!). I also want to include my chapter colours. The old marines I've got from 2nd/3rd are here: I think shoulderpads for sure.
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May 14, 2017 15:51
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Out of curiosity has anyone here actually tried the Rust-Oleum paint and primer cans?
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May 14, 2017 16:00
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I decided to pull out my paints after they've been in a box for years. Ended up throwing out roughly $100 worth of GW paints. These ancient pots were still good though.  I wonder if these are still usable.  Also, this poo poo. Still good too. 
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May 14, 2017 17:22
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Out of curiosity has anyone here actually tried the Rust-Oleum paint and primer cans? I have, and it seems to be very thick. It's okay for stuff like vehicles and terrain, but finer details get blurred on little dudes.
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May 14, 2017 17:22
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Dr. Phildo posted:Just going back a few pages and didn't see you get a reply- I think because you replied to yourself. Most important things you've already addressed (thin your pants!) and starting out, maybe just thin with water. Apart from that, all advice given to Munchables is good stuff (I've watched those Duncan vids for the first time now and am really digging them/kicking myself for not "getting" some basic stuff till now). Munchables posted:Yeah, Duncan's videos are really helpful for understanding the process and making sure you paint in a way that has the easiest mistakes to correct, and to give you an idea of how the paints will look. The best advice though is definitely thinning. I'm really glad I went out of the way to make the wet pallette because it makes it so much easier to get the right thickness. I usually apply at least 5 or 6 coats of each kind of paint before I'm done, and the details don't get flushed out because of the control I have over the thickness of the paint. Multiple thin coats is 100% the way to go, it's so much easier to add small amounts of paint to reach the right thickness than to try to decrease the thickness already on the model. Thanks guys! I painted the other 2 marines in the painting set box, albeit with vallejo paints. Edge highlights were pretty messy but good practice.  Then decided to practice black on a guardian. Highlights came out a lot better imo. Planning on doing a saim hann and biel tan too in order to see what I like. Currently also working a 5-pack of cadians and the vedros set. Just trying to get a lot of practice in before I dive into a real army that I care about (which I'm currently planning on doing as crimson fist marines and possibly an eldar army if I enjoy the color schemes). 
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May 14, 2017 17:49
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Funzo posted:I decided to pull out my paints after they've been in a box for years. Ended up throwing out roughly $100 worth of GW paints. These ancient pots were still good though. My GW sprays were still fine after a decade. But, good news! Privateer press' P3 line has those exact pains with those jars!
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May 14, 2017 17:56
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