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I had some electrical run out for an outdoor kitchen that I am going to start building in the next few weeks. I'm reviewing things and getting caught up on the water heater. When I was setting this up, I asked for a circuit sufficient to run a small water heater for a faucet and a shower; the shower would eventually be installed for rinsing off after swimming and would just be for quick things. That being said, they put in a 120V 20A circuit for it. I'm having a rough time finding something suitable for 110VAC with that little bit of amperage and is also suitable outdoors. Is this a thing? Am I going to have to forego that circuit and set up a propane system? Edit: This heater is about 13 feet away from the faucet and the shower hot lines, if that helps.
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May 14, 2017 07:16
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I had some electrical run out for an outdoor kitchen that I am going to start building in the next few weeks. I'm reviewing things and getting caught up on the water heater. When I was setting this up, I asked for a circuit sufficient to run a small water heater for a faucet and a shower; the shower would eventually be installed for rinsing off after swimming and would just be for quick things. That being said, they put in a 120V 20A circuit for it. I'm having a rough time finding something suitable for 110VAC with that little bit of amperage and is also suitable outdoors. Is this a thing? Am I going to have to forego that circuit and set up a propane system? They really should have installed 220v service, most of the heaters you see will require a higher current than 120v is capable of supplying. I would maybe look at buying some point of use tankless heaters instead. I don't know how well they work, but unless you complain to your electrician to switch the supply line, might be about all you can put in there on 120v. Also check pot the Bosch 2.5 gallon point of use unit. You can also get similar stuff for your shower, or an electrified shower head, which is a popular solution in south America and China. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:02 on May 14, 2017 |
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May 14, 2017 12:58
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I had some electrical run out for an outdoor kitchen that I am going to start building in the next few weeks. I'm reviewing things and getting caught up on the water heater. When I was setting this up, I asked for a circuit sufficient to run a small water heater for a faucet and a shower; the shower would eventually be installed for rinsing off after swimming and would just be for quick things. That being said, they put in a 120V 20A circuit for it. I'm having a rough time finding something suitable for 110VAC with that little bit of amperage and is also suitable outdoors. Is this a thing? Am I going to have to forego that circuit and set up a propane system? Probably a lot of the work is burying the conduit and all that for the outside circuit. Maybe pulling out the 12-2 and replacing it with 12-3 (or whatever you need for three phase) isn't much more than just pulling the wire out with some pull string on the other end and pulling the right wire in, and replacing the breaker and the fixture. Call the electrician, and tell him, it maybe worth getting him out here for a couple more hours to do it right. An outdoor kitchen is a fantastic luxury, I'd want it to be perfect, saving a couple hundred bucks for that compromise may not be worth it. H110Hawk posted:Effort+money:reward blown in is great stuff. That's what we did. It has a lifetime measured in decades and is future-me's problem if I realize the top of my walls are hot from settling. If your dad would like to rip your house to the studs to min/max this for you let him. Check if your state will pay for part of the cost for your cellulose. I would have done it even if they didn't pay for part of it. I'm going to call someone too look into this, thanks! What do you suggest for the attic? I need to do some insulating in the knee walls of my cape cod. I just need to figure out that window j-channel stuff first, it's my current project.
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May 14, 2017 13:44
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I'm going to call someone too look into this, thanks! What do you suggest for the attic? I need to do some insulating in the knee walls of my cape cod. I just need to figure out that window j-channel stuff first, it's my current project. Just keep blowing!  If you have any electrical you want to do in the attic do it before it's like 2' deep in insulation. If you want to save a couple bucks you could do the attic yourself, but it's a 1 day job for a contractor. You have to build little dams around your attic entry, fireplace, forced air unit, etc.
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May 14, 2017 15:15
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H110Hawk posted:
Oh my god, yes. You don't want to go digging through blown in fiberglass.
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May 14, 2017 20:01
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Having 2 issues with my toaster oven: 1st, the timer knob stopped dinging and stopping at 0 and would continue tick past 0 which would eventually bring it to its always on position. 2nd, the oven started to turn off even when the timer was in a non 0 position. For a bit it would only stay on if the timer was set very high (above 30 mins) and then turn off as soon as it dropped below that point, but eventually the oven refused to turn on regardless of the timer position. I disassembled most of the oven to expose the backside of the control panel and found one of the wires that leads to the timer knob had become disconnected:  I assume this explains issue #2, but I'm not sure about #1. Should I replace the timer/bell assembly, or would the wire issue explain #1 as well? Finally, does anyone know of any resources for learning how to fix the wire issue? I've never had to do anything like this before.
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May 14, 2017 22:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:They really should have installed 220v service, most of the heaters you see will require a higher current than 120v is capable of supplying. I would maybe look at buying some point of use tankless heaters instead. I don't know how well they work, but unless you complain to your electrician to switch the supply line, might be about all you can put in there on 120v. We might just redo it, but I can get something like this: http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/products/electric/6-20-soms-k-19-gallon-compact-electric-water-heater-6-year-warranty The point-of-use heaters aren't really useful for things like the pool shower. Well, at least a 110VAC one is only going to run half a gallon a minute when a shower normally gobbles upwards of 2.5 gallons. Jerk McJerkface posted:Probably a lot of the work is burying the conduit and all that for the outside circuit. Maybe pulling out the 12-2 and replacing it with 12-3 (or whatever you need for three phase) isn't much more than just pulling the wire out with some pull string on the other end and pulling the right wire in, and replacing the breaker and the fixture. Call the electrician, and tell him, it maybe worth getting him out here for a couple more hours to do it right. An outdoor kitchen is a fantastic luxury, I'd want it to be perfect, saving a couple hundred bucks for that compromise may not be worth it. I will probably call to ask, but it might not be worth the fuss if I can have a 20-gallon tank or so. It's a luxury, sure, but we're talking them installing circuits more like my air conditioner. The inline heaters I was seeing to do a sink and shower were asking for more than 40A.
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May 14, 2017 23:43
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Splinter posted:Having 2 issues with my toaster oven: Like how to physically fix the wire connection? Get back at the connection and see what kind it is. You'll need to strip the wire a little to expose some conductor and then redo however it was attached. If it's soldered, you can just re-solder it, which if you don't have all the tools, you'll have to get an iron, which isn't expensive. Soldering is an art form that is mostly lost, and it takes a while to get good at. Your toaster I guess isn't a bad way to learn, but you risk the electrically hot wire coming off the switch and shorting out and causing a fire. If it's a crimp and space connector, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg9hjqkJWmg You can just recrimp it and reattach it. I can't tell from the picture, but I also don't know the normal methode to assemble toasters, in a microwave it'd likely be crimp and spade, maybe a toaster is similar. Either way, it's a quick fix like the video shows.
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May 15, 2017 01:58
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Probably a lot of the work is burying the conduit and all that for the outside circuit. Maybe pulling out the 12-2 and replacing it with 12-3 (or whatever you need for three phase) isn't much more than just pulling the wire out with some pull string on the other end and pulling the right wire in, and replacing the breaker and the fixture. Call the electrician, and tell him, it maybe worth getting him out here for a couple more hours to do it right. An outdoor kitchen is a fantastic luxury, I'd want it to be perfect, saving a couple hundred bucks for that compromise may not be worth it. What does 3 phase have to do with anything residential? The wiring doesn't necessarily need to change either.
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May 15, 2017 02:17
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Yeah, provided the heater doesn't have anything that runs at 120v (240v ovens for example have clocks/timers/etc that run at 120v), the neutral can just become the second leg. Easy as replacing a breaker.
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May 15, 2017 03:15
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, provided the heater doesn't have anything that runs at 120v (240v ovens for example have clocks/timers/etc that run at 120v), the neutral can just become the second leg. Easy as replacing a breaker. Well there is a question of the gauge of the wire to handle the extra current. The heaters don't just need 240V; they need upwards of 40A.
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May 15, 2017 04:07
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:The point-of-use heaters aren't really useful for things like the pool shower. Well, at least a 110VAC one is only going to run half a gallon a minute when a shower normally gobbles upwards of 2.5 gallons. i did manage to find a 2GPM one that worked on 110VAC, but needed 29 amps and cost twice as much as the one that uses a bbq propane tank and works way better edit: or be like me. "well it'll save money in the long run!" 
SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 15, 2017 |
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May 15, 2017 06:38
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To be fair, I did look at the propane ones, but that's reaching a point where I kind of need a big boy propane tank between that, the grill, and the burner. And that leaves me with a 110VAC circuit jerking around outside. On another topic, does anybody have an opinion on steel studs for an outdoor kitchen? I am pretty sure I need to stick to concrete block for my pizza oven, but metal studs are looking mighty nice for the rest. I have to do some goofy crap to fit in a sink and items that have to be suspended below counter height. It looks like that will be much easier with metal studs. It also looks like rusty death hell. I have been compelled to believe that so long as I use a galvanizing paint on just about every cut and hole I make, and wrap both sides in hardiboard that it should hold up. ...What about concrete paneling? I am calling some places to see if that's a thing here but I never heard of it until today. Apparently you can just stack that up and glue it. Yes, glue.
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May 15, 2017 07:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:What does 3 phase have to do with anything residential? The wiring doesn't necessarily need to change either. You are correct, I mistakenly refered to 240V as three phase, but it that's incorrect.
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May 15, 2017 14:13
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Mr. Mambold posted:What does 3 phase have to do with anything residential? The wiring doesn't necessarily need to change either. Look do you want your water hot or not?  Rocko Bonaparte posted:To be fair, I did look at the propane ones, but that's reaching a point where I kind of need a big boy propane tank between that, the grill, and the burner. And that leaves me with a 110VAC circuit jerking around outside. Owning N+1 normal sized propane tanks is pretty normal, and then you have 110VAC for lighting, stereo, wifi, etc. No one has ever said "You know what I hate, this utility outlet." You can heat a lot of stuff off a regular propane tank.
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May 15, 2017 15:16
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H110Hawk posted:Look do you want your water hot or not? Oigi 3 phase now lukewarm, middlin hot, hot as hell
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May 15, 2017 15:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:Oigi 3 phase now lukewarm, middlin hot, hot as hell https://www.waterheaterstore.co/proddetail.asp?prod=32336&pname=rheem_booster_e1036g_480volt_36kw_3phase_10gallon_electric_43amps For all your pre-pool sanitizing needs!
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May 15, 2017 15:58
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Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and help with the fan installation questions and also show that people do listen to advice in this forum.  As a small side note, the box was nailed to the joist but it was through this metal hanger bar so it was kind of a pain in the rear end to pound the old box out. Took some extra pry bar work to get it out of the way enough to install the new box. Properly installed fan box  The wreckage.  The happy boy's very cool fan. 
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May 15, 2017 16:49
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Just to clarify, as a picture never tells the whole story - Did you properly secure that romex (plastic grommet or romex connector) where it enters the box before buttoning everything up?
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May 15, 2017 19:03
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vulturesrow posted:Properly installed fan box  or  e:fb HycoCam fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 15, 2017 |
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May 15, 2017 19:15
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Slugworth posted:Just to clarify, as a picture never tells the whole story - Did you properly secure that romex (plastic grommet or romex connector) where it enters the box before buttoning everything up? Are you talking about the little black connector that sits in the knockout hole? If so, yes. Otherwise, what did I screw up? I'm laughing because when I wrote "properly installed" I knew that there would be something that I missed. And thank you (and the other responder) for pointing it out. I am really very keen on doing these sort of DIY things correctly. e: Yes I put that black thing in the knockout hole in the box. What is the importance of it?
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May 15, 2017 19:19
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Keeps the wire from getting frayed. Especially important on something vibrate-y like a fan.
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May 15, 2017 19:32
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It also keeps the wire inside the box from moving if something tugs on the wire outside the box, which could otherwise undo your connections, leave hot wires contacting the box, etc.
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May 15, 2017 19:34
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Obviously neither of these are DIY projects but im getting my roof torn off and redone and doing some major landscaping outside including new grass. Which do I have done first? I'm concerned that the roofers will gently caress up the yard but also that the bobcat guy wont want to drive over potential roof nails.
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May 16, 2017 02:29
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Do the roof first. Roofers should be using tarps to capture almost all the debris, but they'll still gently caress up your yard. In fact if you let them they'll park a haulaway truck right below the roof and chuck stuff straight into it. And I'd be surprised if a bobcat can't handle a nail through the tire. If you're that worried about nails, buy or rent a metal detector.
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May 16, 2017 02:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do the roof first. Roofers should be using tarps to capture almost all the debris, but they'll still gently caress up your yard. In fact if you let them they'll park a haulaway truck right below the roof and chuck stuff straight into it. Everything about this. You will be finding nails forever after doing a roof. Letting the roofers destroy your yard to make their job easier should make them happy.
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May 16, 2017 03:36
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H110Hawk posted:Everything about this. You will be finding nails forever after doing a roof. Letting the roofers destroy your yard to make their job easier should make them happy. I wonder if I can make them magnet the grounds under penalty of paying for bobcat repairs if they leave a nail.
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May 16, 2017 03:41
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Elendil004 posted:I wonder if I can make them magnet the grounds under penalty of paying for bobcat repairs if they leave a nail. Don't worry about the skid steer tires--they are tough. More likely to push the nail in the dirt than the tire. Plus most operators have a $5 patch kit in their truck if a nail does get in the tire and air actually leaks. Gravel driveways and roof replacements is when it gets ugly. Car tires seem to find the nails better. There are roller magnets which do a decent job of finding the nails. Four or five passes over an area and you'll find all sorts of stuff. ($25 version Others) HycoCam fucked around with this message at 05:41 on May 16, 2017 |
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May 16, 2017 05:38
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Regarding the water heater, I can pay $300 to upgrade to roughly 240V 30A but going higher means a really beefy wire. I probably cannot do that with what I have for conduit. Meanwhile, it looks like running a shower is 70A or higher. If I planned to shower every day outside then I could see it. It looks like the 120V, 19 gallon heater is good enough.
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May 16, 2017 06:31
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Regarding the water heater, I can pay $300 to upgrade to roughly 240V 30A but going higher means a really beefy wire. I probably cannot do that with what I have for conduit. That math's not right. Remember amperage halves when you go from 120 to 240. This is why we're idiots for having 120 at all while Europe are all about 240. Check what typical water heaters are rated at.
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May 16, 2017 16:17
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H110Hawk posted:Everything about this. You will be finding nails forever after doing a roof. Letting the roofers destroy your yard to make their job easier should make them happy. You just need a good crew. We found maybe 2 or 3 nails ever after ours. Of course, my wife put out work coolers full of gatorade and cold tea for them. KIndness helps when someone is doing an important thing for you.
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May 16, 2017 16:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:You just need a good crew. We found maybe 2 or 3 nails ever after ours. Of course, my wife put out work coolers full of gatorade and cold tea for them. KIndness helps when someone is doing an important thing for you. They're not doing you a favor though. If I trashed a client facility at most jobs I had, I would be fired in a likely failed attempt to keep my employer from getting fired, and then when it didn't work my ex-employer would've come after me for tens of millions in court.
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May 16, 2017 17:00
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shovelbum posted:They're not doing you a favor though. If I trashed a client facility at most jobs I had, I would be fired in a likely failed attempt to keep my employer from getting fired, and then when it didn't work my ex-employer would've come after me for tens of millions in court. I mean, on the one hand, you're right, but on the other hand in practice I consider myself lucky if the worst that happens when I hire contractors for heavy labor is I have to clean up a couple discarded bottles of tequila.
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May 16, 2017 17:04
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I randomly found poo poo for awhile after getting out roof done. The company I paid also subbed out the removal and they were just trying to fly. I ended up running over a nail with my car and the roofing company just let me deduct it from my payment, probably happens often.
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May 16, 2017 17:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:That math's not right. Remember amperage halves when you go from 120 to 240. This is why we're idiots for having 120 at all while Europe are all about 240. Check what typical water heaters are rated at. Eh, but Europe is idiots for using 50 hz instead of 60 so it kind of balances out.
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May 16, 2017 17:41
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I am in the process of sanding / stripping a failed stain from my deck. I want a clean slate to put on a high quality stain which won't require attention every 6 months. I plan on renting a floor sander this weekend - but I'm curious if anyone has any experience doing this. -How many sanding pads should I pick up if my deck is~1000sqft? -How long would such a deck take to sand? If I can get it in under 4 hours I can save some money on the rental. -I plan on ending with 100 grit, or should I go finer?
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May 16, 2017 17:56
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Bozart posted:Eh, but Europe is idiots for using 50 hz instead of 60 so it kind of balances out. Please explain why? (I genuinely don't know)
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May 16, 2017 18:11
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Tinfoil Papercut posted:I am in the process of sanding / stripping a failed stain from my deck. I want a clean slate to put on a high quality stain which won't require attention every 6 months. I plan on renting a floor sander this weekend - but I'm curious if anyone has any experience doing this. Why are you sanding when you can pressure wash that poo poo off? I'm in the same boat but mine is a 2nd story wooden patio addition thing. My plan is to pressure wash the old stain off then re-stain with a pump sprayer. I don't know if you seen the stuff from Behr they have a deck over product that looks like it would hold up longer than stain.
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May 16, 2017 18:19
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Super 3 posted:Why are you sanding when you can pressure wash that poo poo off? The stain is failing, but some of it is still tightly adherent so my pressure washer isn't taking it all up. I want to take it all to bare wood and start over. We also have two little ones and the deck will (within the next 5 years, I'd say) be producing splinters so I figure sanding it will be a good investment. Strangely enough some of the boards are already rotted through. The house is only 7 years old, so the previous owner must have used older stuff to make the deck. Most of the wood is in decent shape. I actually tried a sample spot with the Deckover - I wasn't too impressed with the coverage / sq-ft. From the reviews I see online and from contacting a Behr rep, the stuff is meant for heavily weathered wood for it to bond well. A lot of people say it peels up after only a year or two and are very unhappy with it. I would do some research before you commit.
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May 16, 2017 18:27
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Tinfoil Papercut posted:I am in the process of sanding / stripping a failed stain from my deck. I want a clean slate to put on a high quality stain which won't require attention every 6 months. I plan on renting a floor sander this weekend - but I'm curious if anyone has any experience doing this. How many pads and how long it would take depend on your deck. It could go real quick, it could take a couple days. I'd say that you could get it done in under a day though. 100 grit would probably be rough enough to feel with your bare feet. I'd go finer.
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May 16, 2017 18:53
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