|
mds2 posted:I fixed my tear out: I definitely prefer photos on the forum. I don't mind following a link and I love instagram. But the biggest thing that drives me bonkers about instagram is not being able to zoom in on a photo. On here we can zoom way in which is nice to see detail.
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 17:20 |
|
|
Falco posted:I definitely prefer photos on the forum. I don't mind following a link and I love instagram. But the biggest thing that drives me bonkers about instagram is not being able to zoom in on a photo. On here we can zoom way in which is nice to see detail. Ok, Ill just post pics here from now. I too just like scrolling through and seeing the image without have to click a link. FYI, Instagram added pinch zooming several months ago.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 12:28
|
|
|
It looks like my glued boards turned out pretty well, but there's a few places where the glue apparently didn't make it all the way the edge, resulting in small gaps. These gaps are very small, but I'd like to fill them with something before finishing. I took a look at several wood fillers at Home Depot and they all instructed you to stain the wood before filling. Then, after filling, you can sand/stain/paint/etc... This seems dumb to me, but I assume there's a reason. What's going to happen if I fill these tiny gaps before sanding/staining the whole piece? On a related note, how terrible of an idea is it to run a very thin bead of wood glue along one of these gaps and let it drip in/fill?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 20:19
|
|
|
Mr Executive posted:It looks like my glued boards turned out pretty well, but there's a few places where the glue apparently didn't make it all the way the edge, resulting in small gaps. These gaps are very small, but I'd like to fill them with something before finishing. I took a look at several wood fillers at Home Depot and they all instructed you to stain the wood before filling. Then, after filling, you can sand/stain/paint/etc... This seems dumb to me, but I assume there's a reason. What's going to happen if I fill these tiny gaps before sanding/staining the whole piece? I don't actually know re: stain before filling, but that's of course only if you plan to stain at all. One semi-common trick for wood fill is to mix sawdust with glue until you get a paste, and then put that in the cracks. It won't contribute much of any strength, but it's an easy way to get a near-perfect color match. I'd do that rather than just drip glue directly in, personally.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 20:32
|
|
|
Yeah if it's really small just touch it with a dab of glue. Or touch it with a dab of glue and run your sander of the spot with high grit paper: instant color matched filler.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
On a winery tour in the Azores and I come across this
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 21:58
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:On a winery tour in the Azores and I come across this Are you currently hangin' with Mr. Cooper?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 22:12
|
|
|
Skippy Granola posted:Are you currently hangin' with Mr. Cooper? No, I'm not in Iowa, I'm in the middle of the Atlantic on Terceria island in the Azores.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 23:00
|
|
|
Can we come visit?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2017 23:09
|
|
|
Veritas large combination plane at Handworks 2017! Their instagram account said it's expected later this year. Looking forward to dropping some (probably) serious $$$ on this thing.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 01:50
|
|
|
I really need to get to Handworks. It's only like a two hour drive from here.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 18:14
|
|
|
Got a little farther on my black locust workbench, but the exciting thing was that I got the blacklight I ordered.  That stack of wood on the right is doug fir, red oak, ash and maple. None of that poo poo glows but holy hell the locust is amazing. Pictures don't do it justice at all. Also I impulse bought the Bosch glide miter saw. I've been lusting after it for a while now, so I guess the next build after the workbench is done will be a miter saw station. I'll actually have storage space then! 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:58 on May 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 23:56
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:I guess the next build after the workbench is done will be a miter saw station. I'll actually have storage space then! Ah ha ha ha ha ha ha, your storage space will last all of five minutes before it's full. Seriously though, looking good, both the bench and your shop.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
This weekend I finished off my Blackburn Tools frame saw. It took a while to cut and dimension because I decided to make it out of ash, plus my stock was just too thick. Used a spokeshave and drawknife to cut the stretchers into a traditional teardrop cross-section to save weight and preserve strength. Then I just used a rasp and some patience to shape the handles. These saws are pretty weird to use. All together it weighs about 8 pounds so it's a bit of a workout, but with a 3 ppi blade it hogs through material pretty quickly. Tends to bind up a little in soft pine, but I think I could stand to set the teeth a bit more aggressively. You also have to check the blade pretty frequently for twist, using the handles as winding sticks. I'm pretty proud with how it turned out. I'm not very good at mortise and tenon joints so they don't seat perfectly, but the tension in the blade helps hold the frame quite rigid. Anyway, if any of you folks have some pointers on using it I'd appreciate it! Beyond that I think this will definitely make my upcoming resawing chore much more manageable.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 03:56
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Got a little farther on my black locust workbench, but the exciting thing was that I got the blacklight I ordered. I'm jealous as gently caress of your space and want to know where it is and how you managed to get it. I'm tucked into like 3-4m x 3-4m in the corner of the garage and if I want more space I need to park one or both cars in the driveway (basically everytime I want to use the tablesaw)
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 04:29
|
|
|
I got to put my flip-top cart through its paces today. Bought some rough-cut lumber, so I needed to plane and joint it, using a straight bit on the router table as an ad-hoc jointer. The cart worked like a charm. Takes a couple minutes to switch between router and planer modes, but it's way easier on my back than trying to lift the planer up off the floor every time I want to use it. I kind of want to try to make a pattern like this into an endgrain cutting board. In principle, you should be able to make any tesselating pattern into a cutting board if you can make a "rod" of one copy of the pattern. Slice the rod into sections and glue 'em together. However, I rather suspect that the pattern in that image would be horribly complicated to make, and I'm not sure I can achieve the precision needed to get it to glue together properly. Opinions and advice? I figure the basic plan would be to build up a laminate board of purpleheart-maple-purpleheart-cherry-purpleheart-maple-purpleheart, then rip that into the triangles, trapezoids, and parallelograms that make the tesselating pattern. Most of the glue-ups should be doable by using a bunch of cord to provide the clamping force. The exception is the four corners of each unit, which stick out:  What's the best way to clamp together such a monstrosity? Do the middle hexagon first, then a second glue-up for the "outer layer", maybe?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 04:54
|
|
|
Cool, can get my hands on full sheet of 3/4" film face plywood for 36 euros, and ordinary pine 1/2" for even cheaper from my work. As long as I don't overdo it, small quantities, perhaps once a year.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 11:36
|
|
|
I got really frustrated with my lovely box joint jig, so I remade it with a more accurate key and spacer, and now it makes joints that are much tighter and better. I then used that to build my dad a box for storing full frames of honey while he brings them home for processing.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 13:10
|
|
|
NPR Journalizard posted:I got really frustrated with my lovely box joint jig, so I remade it with a more accurate key and spacer, and now it makes joints that are much tighter and better. I then used that to build my dad a box for storing full frames of honey while he brings them home for processing. Smart move
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 15:39
|
|
|
NPR Journalizard posted:I got really frustrated with my lovely box joint jig, so I remade it with a more accurate key and spacer, and now it makes joints that are much tighter and better. I then used that to build my dad a box for storing full frames of honey while he brings them home for processing. Do you happen to have any photos? I would love see what kind of jigs people have built. My only reference to a home made box joint jig is Matthias Wandel
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 16:11
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:I'm jealous as gently caress of your space and want to know where it is and how you managed to get it. It's smaller than it looks (at least to me). Only 330ish square feet and a weird tapered shape. It's the corner of my parents partially finished basement which is unfortunate as it means I drive about 60 miles a week to spend Fridays and Sundays in my shop.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
Falco posted:Do you happen to have any photos? I would love see what kind of jigs people have built. My only reference to a home made box joint jig is Matthias Wandel Wandel's is more accurate and you can do different sized joints, but I dont have a table saw, so I used a router table, which limits the size I can do to the size of my bit. Its also a shitload easier to make and you can slap it together in less than an hour. I forget where I saw this first, but Steve Ramsay and William Ng both have similar jigs, but again for the table saw. Its pretty ugly because I made it with scraps, but it does the job. Trust me when I say that you should drat well take your time with the key. Get it accurate and get the spacer in the right position and you will get some nice joints.    I still need to go back and fix up that screw thats on the spacer block there. I think its a bit too far proud and messing up the depth of the cut.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2017 04:54
|
|
|
Crucible is going to have dividers (and French curves) on sale this Thursday at noon ET. 
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2017 05:44
|
|
|
Phone posted:Crucible is going to have dividers (and French curves) on sale this Thursday at noon ET. I really don't need to spend any more right now, but this is enticing.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2017 15:12
|
|
|
NPR Journalizard posted:Wandel's is more accurate and you can do different sized joints, but I dont have a table saw, so I used a router table, which limits the size I can do to the size of my bit. Its also a shitload easier to make and you can slap it together in less than an hour. I forget where I saw this first, but Steve Ramsay and William Ng both have similar jigs, but again for the table saw. Awesome, thank you for the photos. It looks pretty simple, but I'm sure it does the trick. Any tips to getting the key accurate and square? did you end up running it through a jointer or planer?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2017 15:19
|
|
|
Falco posted:I really don't need to spend any more right now, but this is enticing. Fwiw you can pick up perfectly functional old dividers on ebay for super cheap. Like $5-10 including shipping. I found a deal a couple months back for 7 dividers of various types and sizes for $25, shipped. Whatever you choose, dividers are great to have. I use mine a lot. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 17:06 on May 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2017 17:04
|
|
|
Falco posted:Awesome, thank you for the photos. It looks pretty simple, but I'm sure it does the trick. Any tips to getting the key accurate and square? did you end up running it through a jointer or planer? Lol, I don't have a jointer or planer. I measured accurately, then cut it on a mitre saw. You don't need a particularly long one so that is enough. Cut one, make sure it's consistent long the whole length, then cut it in half.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 00:50
|
|
|
My buddy wants me to build him this book case: https://rogueengineer.com/diy-industrial-bookcase-plans/ Will the pocket holes be sufficient? Should I consider a different way to put the body together? How well do these pocket holes resist racking?
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 21:28
|
|
|
Cannon_Fodder posted:My buddy wants me to build him this book case: On their own they're okay, not the best. But I would say that shelf is pretty overbuilt. With the face frame, the back supports and a full back it should be plenty strong.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 21:43
|
|
|
Anyone have any experience dying walnut sapwood to match the rest? Got a project coming up that I'm going to want to do exactly that and I'm looking for a little coaching on the topic.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Anyone have any experience dying walnut sapwood to match the rest? Got a project coming up that I'm going to want to do exactly that and I'm looking for a little coaching on the topic. I've heard that lumberyard kilns steam theirs to get some of the sapwood darkened. There was a legendary article in FWW back in the day about a guy steaming a bunch of walnut with sapwood with something like peroxide or idr what, but it involved an entire lobby they had trimmed out that the contractor or client wanted all heartwoody. Something in the bleach family I'm pretty sure.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 21:58
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:On their own they're okay, not the best. But I would say that shelf is pretty overbuilt. With the face frame, the back supports and a full back it should be plenty strong. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2017 22:01
|
|
|
Phone posted:Crucible is going to have dividers (and French curves) on sale this Thursday at noon ET. Just reminding folks about this
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 16:58
|
|
|
I forgot and they are sold out. 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2017 20:39
|
|
|
Speaking of stupid but ultimately badass purchases, Jesus christ this thing is nice. I didn't get the criss cross hardware because I'm morally opposed to how much meat you have to remove from the leg, so I'll be doing a sort of weird ramped parallel guide with a few bearings. I've only used really cheap leg vise hardware in the past, so this is completely mindblowing for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahLMqGHNQz4
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2017 23:15
|
|
|
Will a thickness drum sander give me a surface I can finish directly? Currently I plane, then sand with an orbital, but the sanding is my least favorite task and if I can just feed it through another machine that would speed up my workflow.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 01:22
|
|
|
Javid posted:Will a thickness drum sander give me a surface I can finish directly? Currently I plane, then sand with an orbital, but the sanding is my least favorite task and if I can just feed it through another machine that would speed up my workflow. Thickness sanders are cool, but changing belts is time consuming and it makes it really not worth it for actual finish sanding. 80-120 grit is about perfect for a drum sander. Instead, get a good 6" orbital and/or smoothing plane (and practice) or scrapers. Ideally after planing/glue removal you shouldn't have to do much more than 180/220/finish for most hardwoods.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 01:42
|
|
|
I toured Sam Maloof's workshop/grounds and noticed on some chairs they miter cut and flipped one piece to give a slight bend from back to leg at the seat. Is there a term for this so I can find more info?
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 02:15
|
|
|
 5th dovetail attempt. As usual the youtube videos make it look much easier than it is.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 05:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 17:20 |
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Thickness sanders are cool, but changing belts is time consuming and it makes it really not worth it for actual finish sanding. 80-120 grit is about perfect for a drum sander. Instead, get a good 6" orbital and/or smoothing plane (and practice) or scrapers. Ideally after planing/glue removal you shouldn't have to do much more than 180/220/finish for most hardwoods. I mainly deal with softwoods like fir and cedar. Current workflow is plane, rout corners, single pass with an orbital at 100, then stain & urethane, or paint. I guess I'm looking for some kind of machine I can feed a board through like the planer that will sand it for me. Having never used a thickness sander, I just wanna know if it'll produce a finishable surface or not, given that 100 grit is as high as I go anyway.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2017 05:35
|
|