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Camera gear is ~20-30% more expensive in Japan This is the best place for used camera stuff: https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/shopping/fujiya-camera prompt fucked around with this message at 07:00 on May 3, 2017 |
# ? May 3, 2017 06:57 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 14:40 |
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RobotDogPolice posted:My friends and I are taking a trip to Japan next summer and I wanted to start preparing now. I have a Pentax ME Super and and Fuji X-E1, are there any must have lenses for the ME Super that could be adapted to the Fuji? Other than packing plenty of batteries and getting a good bag, what else should I bring? I don't know about adapting lenses for X-series cameras, but the Pentax-M 40/2.8 pancake is a nice walkaround lens. My other Pentax-M lenses are the 50/1.4, 28/3.5, and 135/3.5, but I don't know if any of them would be considered must-haves.
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# ? May 3, 2017 08:24 |
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If you want cheap camera stuff you need to go to Hong Kong. Don't go to any of the stores with tons of flashy neon signs and plastic wrapped cameras in glass cabinets on each side of the entrance, also avoid "Mr Lim" that is recommended by some big blogs if you google the subject. Go to Tin Cheung camera store in Stanley Street. I found this the cheapest place to buy a camera that was not grey import. Considerably cheaper (17k HKD vs 23k HKD) than the big electronics chains (Fortress, Broadway, SuNing) and just 5% more expensive than the grey import places.
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# ? May 3, 2017 11:34 |
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prompt posted:Camera gear is ~20-30% more expensive in Japan Some of the staff at Fujiya is not very happy to receive even Japanese speaking gaijin, let alone tourists. There are exceptions. If you need questions answered or know no Japanese I would consider Map Camera in Shinjuku a better stop. The multi building original Yodobashi around there is also superior to Akihabara, and has a complete film selection that rivals that of pro photo shops during the high point of film photography. Map Camera is more expensive but they also warranty their stuff and that more expensive generally yields better gear, especially for used film gear. If you happen to need junk grade cameras for repairs, Lemon Camera (lemon-sha) in Ginza would be my first stop over Fujiya, they don't speak English either but at least they're nice to work with. I would not buy anything valuable from Lemon unless it's rare 120 format gear other stores are unlikely to have which is really the Ginza stores speciality (well, except for ripping people off on the used Leica market).
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# ? May 8, 2017 23:25 |
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There's not really a thread for this and I don't think it justifies it's own, but as it falls under "spend money on my dumb habit" I figured I'd ask here. Where is a good place to get large, poster-sized (around 48") prints done online? Preferably on metal or acrylic. I'm finding just a few outfits like Whitewall, which charges a pretty stiff amount. Places like snapfish, mpix, and shutterfly don't do large wall-art style prints past 30"x20" at all.
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# ? May 16, 2017 06:10 |
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I just want to say I got a Peak Design Summit Edition Sling strap yesterday and now I understand the love for PD stuff. This is a beautiful strap and it feels impressively engineered. The plate being arca tripod compatible is just gravy - my previous Rollei sling strap had to be taken off before you could put the camera on a tripod. I'm probably going to get a couple more for when I'm carrying multiple cameras and maybe a capture clip or two as well.
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# ? May 16, 2017 09:36 |
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I have an old Nikon FM10 camera. It works fine, but the battery for the internal light meter is dead. Last I checked, they don't make the necessary type of battery anymore. I guess what I'm getting at is how hard is it to use a separate light meter, and can someone recommend one?
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# ? May 16, 2017 19:50 |
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Unless we're looking at completely different cameras, the FM10 uses a S76 battery which is compatible with commonly available A76/357/SR44
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# ? May 16, 2017 20:02 |
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TequilaJesus posted:I have an old Nikon FM10 camera. It works fine, but the battery for the internal light meter is dead. Last I checked, they don't make the necessary type of battery anymore. Nikon posted:One 3V CR1/3N lithium battery, or two 1.55V SR44 silver-oxide batteries, or two 1.5V LR44 alkaline batteries I'm positive those LR44s are still pretty common
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# ? May 16, 2017 20:05 |
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Huh. I'm not sure where I read that. Must've been a misunderstanding. Thanks, goons!
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# ? May 16, 2017 21:31 |
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Yeah, to be sure there are a lot of old batteries that aren't made any more, either because they were old mercury batteries or zinc-air or whatever, but the good news is you still have good odds of finding modern batteries that will work
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# ? May 16, 2017 21:53 |
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I was really surprised that both my older film cameras (Spotmatic and Yashica Electro) use some sort of fancy bridge circuit so they don't really care what voltage battery you stick in them within a certain voltage range. Physical constraints might be an issue but that's what foam padding and aluminum foil are for!
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# ? May 16, 2017 22:12 |
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e: lol wrong thread
Kilometers Davis fucked around with this message at 00:56 on May 22, 2017 |
# ? May 16, 2017 23:42 |
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Kilometers Davis posted:I recently upgraded to the Canon EF 1.8 STM and no longer need the previous version I had. Anyone interested? It was my first prime and I loved the hell out of it, even with it's inherent issues. It's light, dead simple, and fun in every setting I used it in. Probably looking for money but I always can always be paid in guitar pedals. I also don't have a tripod yet so maybe that? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3759085
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# ? May 16, 2017 23:49 |
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:There's a gear buy/sell/trade thread: Oh gently caress I thought I was in that thread. Thank you for steering me in the right direction. I don't know how I managed that.
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# ? May 22, 2017 00:55 |
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I'm thinking about buying a Nikon 85mm 1.8G - is there anything else in the neighborhood I should be considering? I'd primarily use it for portraiture and maybe pseudo-macro? (It's supposed to focus at 2.62ft, at which I figure 85mm on DX would be pretty tight if not exactly macro.) Will I love it? Is there anything to worry about with it? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:20 on May 26, 2017 |
# ? May 26, 2017 21:18 |
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What about the Sigma 85/1.4 ART? I know nothing about it except that it exists and Sigma's other primes in that class are well-regarded.
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# ? May 27, 2017 04:19 |
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Tamron makes a nice 85mm f/1.8 with IS.
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# ? May 27, 2017 09:38 |
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Krakkles posted:I'm thinking about buying a Nikon 85mm 1.8G - is there anything else in the neighborhood I should be considering? I'd primarily use it for portraiture and maybe pseudo-macro? (It's supposed to focus at 2.62ft, at which I figure 85mm on DX would be pretty tight if not exactly macro.) You'll love it, it's sharp and fantastic value for money, and I personally know people who've done great portraiture with it. AF performance is middling, and CA correction isn't incredible, but you'll be looking to sacrifice a fair amount more in money and weight to get glass that's noticeably better and won't necessarily have much benefit for portraiture. Let me put it this way, I've never heard of anyone being disappointed with the lens. Jimlad fucked around with this message at 11:25 on May 27, 2017 |
# ? May 27, 2017 11:19 |
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Yeah, it's a loving all-star lens and until I switched to m43 used that glass heavily on my d600
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# ? May 27, 2017 15:37 |
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I can't read and thought the question was about the Nikon 85 1.4. Oops
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# ? May 27, 2017 22:04 |
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Looking for some gear advice (... obviously, I guess) As a hobbyist, I used to shoot a lot, mostly travel and hiking type stuff, but the last time I did it anywhere near seriously was probably 5+ years ago. I got out of the habit for several reasons as time wore on, but I took my old Canon 40D with me to England for a vacation a few weeks back and it reminded me why I enjoyed it in the first place. So now that gear has gotten better and I have some money in the bank, I am evaluating some options to get back into the hobby. Right now I have a Canon 40D, 17-55 2.8 IS, an 85 1.8 prime, and a 430 II Speedlite. I'm considering the following paths: 1) Upgrade to an 80D, keep the lenses I have, and use the saved money to add the 10-18 EF-S to my kit 2) Upgrade to a full frame Canon of some sort, either a used 5d3 or possibly wait for a 6d II whenever that might come; selling off the 17-55 and investing in something like a 24-105L 3) Abandon Canon and switch to either a Nikon or Sony system My main interest is in deep and crisp still photos of landscapes and cities, with good performance in all lighting conditions and a high dynamic range. I'm still an amateur/hobbyist so I don't really *need* pro-level gear. The cheapest and most versatile option would be #1 but I'm hesitant to invest further into Canon's APS-C line as it seems from what I've been reading recently (along with my experience in the past) is that Canon has not been a leader in terms of quality or innovation on that level. Canon's high quality stuff appears in their full frame lines, while Nikon and Sony consistently are earning raves from reviewers across their product lines and I don't have such a huge investment in Canon that it would cost a disgusting amount of money to replace everything. And frankly I don't use the 85mm or Speedlite all too much that I'd be broken without them during the switch to a new system. Of course, it's also hard to tell when reviewers are caught up in the difference between a 90 and a 91, declaring the 91 an "obvious and decisively better choice" when most people would find little to no difference in the long run, so I'm looking for some help cutting through the bullshit to decide what would be the best way to spend some money.
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# ? May 30, 2017 14:32 |
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My advice would be that you probably won't see any benefit from the full-frame option except that it means you get to spend more money on lenses. For the kind of photography you describe, there's going to be practically no difference between the image quality of a decent APS-C camera and a full-frame body. As for whether to stick with Canon or jump to Sony/Nikon, the 80D has a very similar control layout to your 40D so there'll be a very minor period of reorientation when you upgrade. I usually shoot with a 70D and, whenever I am given a Nikon to use, I have to hunt all over for even basic stuff like shutter speed and aperture controls. It's a minor point and, obviously it's not going to always be a problem if you move but it might be a factor. As far as review scores go, I doubt very much whether there's a significant difference in actual use between any of those platforms for comparable models. Especially if you are editing your photos and aren't just posting SOOC jpegs to Facebook. Any minor differences are going to get lost in Lightroom sliders. Your absolute best option for that kind of photography would be a medium format system but that will probably be out of budget if you're looking at a digital option and I'd guess you don't want to gently caress around with film.
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# ? May 30, 2017 16:06 |
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Sounds like a tripod and some filters (circular polarizer and a range of NDs) would be the best use of your money. Ignore all of the marketing hype... if you're not doing wildlife/sports photography or something like that, none of that poo poo really matters. If you're taking your gear on hikes, you'll blow your budget on a lightweight tripod anyway. Also figure out a good solution for packing/carrying your camera. I just got a Capture Clip Pro specifically for hiking.
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# ? May 30, 2017 17:26 |
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edgar_ posted:My main interest is in deep and crisp still photos of landscapes and cities Ah, that's easy then. Get a tripod, job done. Large depth of field landscape is one of the least demanding types of photography in terms of equipment; you can get sharp photos using almost anything as long as you can keep the camera still. The real issue isn't so much getting sharp shots as figuring out lighting, composition and post processing - no need to worry about gear. Even noise and dynamic range issues are entirely solvable using multiple exposure techniques.
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# ? May 30, 2017 17:57 |
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Helen Highwater posted:My advice would be that you probably won't see any benefit from the full-frame option except that it means you get to spend more money on lenses. For the kind of photography you describe, there's going to be practically no difference between the image quality of a decent APS-C camera and a full-frame body. What she says.
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# ? May 30, 2017 19:59 |
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I am looking to get back into photography. I have a Nikon D60 and a kit lens (AF-S 18-55) that I haven't even picked up in probably 3 or 4 years. My wife and I frequent the mountains and I would love to document our adventures a bit better than with our cellphones; and I wouldn't mind hanging up some original prints every once in a while. I used to have a 55-200 (is that a thing? I can't remember) kit lens that I enjoyed shooting with more than the 18-55. I also can't find any batteries or the charger for it the camera. I am wondering if I'm better off just starting over with new (or used) gear that is better? I think occasionally shooting video would be nice and live view is super swell. My d60 just feels very dated compared to all the new stuff, but I'm a casual shooter with a small budget at best.
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# ? May 31, 2017 02:15 |
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If you're on a budget and aren't really sure what you want to go for, then buy a new charger and battery for your D60 and play around with the lens that you have while you figure out what it is that you want. If you find that you can't get close enough to the action, buy a second-hand 55-200. If you find that you're doing a lot of wide shots then buy a decent tripod. When you've shot a bit more, you'll have a better idea of what your needs actually are and you won't have sunk a lot of money into your current setup if you decide that a new camera that might be in a different system is the way forwards.
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# ? May 31, 2017 12:02 |
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Spartan Race has claimed another victim: the mode dial faceplate fell off my 5D3. I think a few drops of super glue will fix it; a fellow photog said it happened to him and Canon wanted like $295 to replace that whole assembly. gently caress that.
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# ? May 31, 2017 15:13 |
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dakana posted:Spartan Race has claimed another victim: the mode dial faceplate fell off my 5D3. I think a few drops of super glue will fix it; a fellow photog said it happened to him and Canon wanted like $295 to replace that whole assembly. gently caress that. That's happened to my 6D and I superglued it back.
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# ? May 31, 2017 18:27 |
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Doesn't superglue kind of fog clear plastic as it dries? I buy and sell used cameras to keep up with current generation models, my worry is mainly resale.
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# ? May 31, 2017 19:07 |
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Depends on the plastic
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# ? May 31, 2017 19:19 |
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The mode dial is, I believe, metal, and it attaches to a piece of black plastic. I don't think I need to worry about fogging.
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# ? May 31, 2017 20:23 |
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If you're ever concerned about fogging plastic with an adhesive use watch crystal cement. G&S Hypo is a good (really the only) brand. Just as strong as super glue and not as brittle. Won't fog plastics. The scale modeller's secret tool for affixing cockpit canopies that will never come off.
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# ? May 31, 2017 20:44 |
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Y'all should buy like a 10-pack of Pentax rear lens caps even if you don't own a Pentax camera. It fits a whole bunch of other common mounts too. Nikon F works, Sony E works, I'm sure there's others.
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# ? Jun 13, 2017 03:14 |
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I'm going to Comic-Con! But this is the first time I'll be going to a big convention with my camera. Any suggestions for on-camera flash modifiers? Rogue Flashbender?
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# ? Jul 5, 2017 23:35 |
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How much worse actually is a ~$100 Manfrotto ballhead (or similar) than a ~$400 Really Right Stuff? Will I regret the Manfrotto? Largest lens is a 70-200 2.8 and a 6D.
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# ? Jul 11, 2017 20:43 |
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evensevenone posted:How much worse actually is a ~$100 Manfrotto ballhead (or similar) than a ~$400 Really Right Stuff? Will I regret the Manfrotto? Largest lens is a 70-200 2.8 and a 6D. Don't give Really Right Stuff your money. https://www.flickr.com/groups/865962@N20/discuss/72157612473243424/ Kirk is made in America and their stuff is just as good. Definitely better than Manfrotto, which is not to say you'll regret getting a Manfrotto.
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# ? Jul 11, 2017 20:48 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:Don't give Really Right Stuff your money. https://www.flickr.com/groups/865962@N20/discuss/72157612473243424/ Thanks for reminding me of this. An appropriate ~$100 Manfrotto head will definitely support the 6D & 70-200 2.8. I've used it on that combo and also on my 5D3, battery grip, 2x teleconverter, and 70-200 2.8 without issues. You won't regret it. You'd regret buying a plastic or cheap metal Sunpak or whatever. Kirk will likely feel better, have tighter tolerances, etc, but functionally it'll be pretty similar.
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# ? Jul 11, 2017 21:00 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 14:40 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:Don't give Really Right Stuff your money. https://www.flickr.com/groups/865962@N20/discuss/72157612473243424/
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# ? Jul 11, 2017 21:04 |