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I don't believe so, no - from memory, there's an idler that goes in place of the compressor on the non-AC cars, and without that idler the belt section between the power steering pump and the crank would run into the belt section between the crank and water pump.
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May 23, 2017 21:59
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I figured as much. I'm dreading what the repair cost would be if it's done for and would rather just rip it all out. Who needs AC in a convertible?
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May 23, 2017 22:01
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Rhyno posted:I figured as much. I'm dreading what the repair cost would be if it's done for and would rather just rip it all out. Who needs AC in a convertible? I live in North Carolina and occasionally sit in traffic in the summer, so definitely me.
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May 23, 2017 23:18
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The heat coming from the transmission tunnel etc is enough to make me want AC, and I live in Norway... I've definitely had to learn what heater settings work well for driving with the top down, as the legs don't really need any extra heat. In other news, I replaced a completely rusted out OEM hose clamp on the thermostat bypass coolant hose tonight, the original one fell apart when I started messing with it. Ordered a new hose, as it doesn't look good.
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May 23, 2017 23:56
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Rhyno posted:I figured as much. I'm dreading what the repair cost would be if it's done for and would rather just rip it all out. Who needs AC in a convertible? We might have the AC compressor sitting around from the one my dad and I turned into a race car, Incidentally.
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May 24, 2017 03:27
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mekilljoydammit posted:We might have the AC compressor sitting around from the one my dad and I turned into a race car, Incidentally. Oooh, that might be handy. I'm going to poke around town and see if there's an auto AC specialist I can go to just to have it looked at. WIth my cherokee I was able to get a bypass pullet for $20 to replace the compressor. I'm hoping that if it is on the way out I can just have it disabled so it spins freely or something.
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May 24, 2017 03:44
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Anyone have a bitch of a time adjusting the e-brake when replacing rear calipers? Mine (95 NA) is getting stuck on one side when I adjust the e brake cable and the little piston gear. I can't even get it to stop the car at all when I take it for a test drive, just slightly slows it, and then one side just gets semi stuck. It looks like it's getting stuck on itself somehow - almost seems like a defect in the re manufactured part - I'll take a pic when I can. Voltage fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 03:55
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When i did my brakes the left wheel wouldn't react to the handbrake at all. The right wheel was fine. It brakes normal though so i haven't really checked up on it since then. The pistons on mine were pretty rusty so maybe some fuckery like that is happening with your brakes. Maybe a broken seal or dust boot so its slightly rusty and the handbrake handle doesn't generate enough pressure to get it to move while pressing the pedal works.
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May 24, 2017 10:48
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GEMorris posted:I live in North Carolina and occasionally sit in traffic in the summer, so definitely me. My A/C leaks out during the winter, so a recharge usually brings it right back. I didn't do this last year and it suuuuucked sitting in rush hour traffic in summer. It's definitely noticeable how much power it drains, but having A/C blowing on you when it's 90+ is amazing. Shai-Hulud posted:When i did my brakes the left wheel wouldn't react to the handbrake at all. The right wheel was fine. Did you adjust the nut inside the caliper? I've had it everywhere from "doesn't grab" to "wheel hardly moves."
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May 24, 2017 15:15
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Brand spankin' new (Well re-manufactured) calipers, so no rust nonsense. I did adjust the little gear and it either goes from the rears not grabbing at all, to only a little tiny bit, to one of the wheels getting the lever stuck but not enough to lock up the brake. I must have jacked the car up about 15 times trying to adjust this stupid e brake nonsense. Also found my master cylinder is leaking against the brake booster :\
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May 24, 2017 16:00
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Is your parking brake handle topping out? Adjust the worm gear to the point where you can't move the wheel at all with the rear in the air, and then back off 1/3rd turn. After you've done that on both wheels, take the plastic cover off the handbrake lever and adjust the hex post thingy (there's a slot in it for a screwdriver) so that you can't pull it past 3-5 clicks. It's also possible that the adjustor is toast on a fresh rebuild. I've had that before.
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May 24, 2017 17:16
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I think it's pretty common for that hole to strip and probably goes unnoticed by the remanufacturers.
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May 24, 2017 19:28
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A friend suggested that I should be able to just replace the clutch bearing on the compressor and that it should be possible to do ith without venting the system. Thoughts?
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May 25, 2017 01:37
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Rhyno posted:A friend suggested that I should be able to just replace the clutch bearing on the compressor and that it should be possible to do ith without venting the system. Call a local AC shop? They'd know the best.
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May 25, 2017 03:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Call a local AC shop? They'd know the best. Both places I called today won't tell me anything over the phone, they require me to bring it i n for a not free inspection. The airbox has to be removed to get in there. According to miata.net it was possible to do it on the NA and NB and I see numerous videos on YT detailing it, just not to my specific car.
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May 25, 2017 03:30
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Rhyno posted:A friend suggested that I should be able to just replace the clutch bearing on the compressor and that it should be possible to do ith without venting the system. I've done it. It's doable, just a pain in the rear end to get the C-clips back in. The inner one popped out on me and destroyed the coil guy. Trust me be SURE it's all the way in. That being said, bearings don't whine. You sure it's not belt noise? Blaise fucked around with this message at 15:03 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 15:01
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The whole clutch is replaceable on most systems and it's not usually a thing you need to vent for.
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May 25, 2017 15:03
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Blaise posted:I've done it. It's doable, just a pain in the rear end to get the C-clips back in. The inner one popped out on me and destroyed the coil guy. Trust me be SURE it's all the way in. It sounds dreadful, I'll get some video. I mean it's possible the whole clutch is going out.
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May 25, 2017 16:29
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There's also plenty of bearings in the compressor itself. I'm assuming it's making noise when its disengaged which is why you're looking at the clutch.
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May 25, 2017 16:37
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The noise isn't constant. I ran the car for 10 minutes and didn't get anything loud enough for the camera to pick up. I'm sure it will start up when I go for a drive but I can't leave the apartment until UPS shows up.
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May 25, 2017 17:45
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I'd be suspicious of the belt. A lot.
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May 25, 2017 20:47
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What would you guys think of this if I could get him to $12,000? http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...odelCode1=MIATA I know I'm shopping at the absolute wrong time of year.
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May 25, 2017 22:33
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blk posted:What would you guys think of this if I could get him to $12,000? Not the worst you could do. Miles are a bit higher than I'd want and it is missing the appearance package which really pulls the NC2 together visually, but that does seem like a reasonable price at 12k
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May 25, 2017 22:54
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Rhyno posted:The noise isn't constant. I ran the car for 10 minutes and didn't get anything loud enough for the camera to pick up. I'm sure it will start up when I go for a drive but I can't leave the apartment until UPS shows up. I should have said this earlier but if the compressor pulley is going out it will make a noise with the AC off and then stop when the AC clutch is on. Off=pulley is spinning, On=compressor is spinning. Unless they are both bad at the same time. IMHO replace the idler pulleys and belt because they are relatively cheap and easy and because they will eventually need to be replaced anyway. Look for more expensive poo poo later. My Miata had the M45 supercharger that runs off the skinny 4 rib belt. OE type belts like Gates, etc. are the only ones that worked without noise, just the drat brand was enough of a factor. Actually, since I'm here, I don't know about your car in particular but at work we got a batch of Silverados that had a drat belt noise that ended up being that the factory didn't get the PS pulley 100% fully pressed on so it was out of line from the other pulleys a tiny bit. That's all it can take sometimes.
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May 26, 2017 02:15
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Belt looked fine when I swapped the part that didn't need to be swapped. But I will get a new belt and swap it in on Saturday. Here's the noise it's making. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgLp7-3Qpq0
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May 26, 2017 03:07
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Wow, that's weird. I'd have to have to be standing there in person to even know where to start. Doesn't really sound like a regular belt or pulley noise though.
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May 27, 2017 00:23
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It was a lot worse before I had the p/s pump out. Here's the first video, please excuse my severe allergies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mckLFw0855A
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May 27, 2017 03:39
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Spotted yesterday in Akihabara:
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May 28, 2017 00:43
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I bet Tokyo's road maintenance crew beams with pride when they see that driving around.
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May 28, 2017 05:41
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kimbo305 posted:I bet Tokyo's road maintenance crew beams with pride when they see that driving around. The roads here are literally perfect.
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May 28, 2017 07:49
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I miss Glorious Nippon's  roads so much. I used to drive a cargo truck and be amazed at the condition and intricacies of their main roadways/interstates. So nice compared to my Midwest hellsape that is Indiana roads.
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May 29, 2017 03:26
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So here's where I'm at. Got the car torn apart again, took the belt off and spun the pulley. I forgot the record it but there was a slight metallic scuffing noise. Got the clutch off (it was cramped as hell and used an allen key) and spun it again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeE41QyLafo Sounds okay to me? Still want to replace the bearing just to be safe but there's so little space and while I can feel the snap ring I can't get the pliers in there. Gonna have to move a hose or something. Doesn't look accessible from below. Clutch has no play. Has some score marks on the inner lip but it's not loose like I saw in various YT videos. Not having a lot of luck tracking down just the clutch in the case that it also needs to be replaced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGuxVKxCMdc For all my talk of being done working on cars I have to say, this has actually been quite enjoyable. The Miata is fun to tinker with.
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May 30, 2017 03:01
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 This car is fun.
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May 30, 2017 03:12
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A 10AE with fogged over headlights? (buff that poo poo, dude)
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May 30, 2017 03:14
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Have any recommendations for brake pads on a stock daily driver? Centric posi-quiet seems to be the popular mid-range choice on rockauto
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May 30, 2017 03:44
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Whatever ceramics that won't break the bank and are nice and quiet.
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May 30, 2017 04:00
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Sentient Data posted:Have any recommendations for brake pads on a stock daily driver? Centric posi-quiet seems to be the popular mid-range choice on rockauto I got those exact ones and was pretty happy with them. They last a really long time: I think I put like 50k miles on them and they were still going fine when I sold the car. They don't have much bite but were good enough for the street.
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May 30, 2017 04:22
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ultimateforce posted:
Buff the headlights, get some R-compound tires and have all the fun Are those the original wheels as well? They look pristine. That's not usually the case...
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May 30, 2017 10:06
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Who needs a truck when you have a miata? I forgot how much harder it is to park with my summer wheels on compared to the stock wheels with lovely all seasons.
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May 30, 2017 16:28
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| # ? May 24, 2024 08:12 |
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 I did the same the other day. Too lazy to grab my Silverado. Plus more fun to just drive the NA....
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May 30, 2017 16:43
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