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FogHelmut posted:But then why didn't I just buy an XV in the first place? (ignore that it was a year before their release) Built not bought, bro. (Tm) Edit: buy a 2.2l outback sport and put good tires on it.
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May 30, 2017 20:15
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I'll be looking at a 2008 Mazda3 today, which I'm kinda excited about. I started looking over the maintenance schedule, because it's under 80k miles. I was assuming that transmission maintenance was due and wanted to know for sure. Problem is, Mazda didn't have anything for the transmission listed. In fact, I found a forum post with this email from MazdaUSA (emphasis mine):Mazda Customer Rep posted:Our engineers have determined that it is not necessary to change the transmission fluid in your vehicle. If your transmission fluid becomes burnt or damaged, then you would want to change the fluid. Changing your transmission shouldn't void your powertrain warranty unless an authorized Mazda technician determines that that the damage was caused by an outside influence. I hope that this clears up any confusion you may have. For a more technical explanation, please contact your local authorized Mazda dealer.  Uhh, what? My crappy, limited research tells me that changing the tranny fluid is important to spot check any issues. Also, was I wrong to assume that at the 80k-100k mark there's, typically, routine transmission inspection/tune-up?
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May 30, 2017 22:27
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Sealed transmissions are a thing now. You can certainly change the fluid but it is designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle.
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May 30, 2017 22:59
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Sealed transmissions are a thing now. You can certainly change the fluid but it is designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Conveniently, when the transmission dies, the vehicle is no longer worth repairing! 
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May 30, 2017 23:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Conveniently, when the transmission dies, the vehicle is no longer worth repairing! Vws been doing it for years. The good news is that the transmission dies right around the time the entire emissions system takes a dump.
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May 31, 2017 00:16
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Deteriorata posted:
Guinness posted:The new 2017 Impreza is actually a big improvement over the 2016, though. It's an all-new generation of the car on Subaru's new global platform, not just a minor model year revision. The chassis and suspension are better and the interior is nicer and has Car Play/Android Auto. And for whatever its worth its got that active torque vectoring thingy, too. Plus if you're planning to buy the car and drive it until the wheels fall off going new is not really a bad idea. IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the hit-and-miss nature of whether or not you'll be able to get a good deal on a lightly used car. If Subaru is throwing any money on the hood of the 2017 it might be a better deal. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:There's something potentially to be said of not buying the first year of a major redesign until the wheels fall off. MY+1 usually has a massive quantity of minor performance improvements that can drive a large improvement in reliability. Guinness posted:That's a fair point to consider. Though with the warranty it's something I would worry less about on an economy-class Subaru than a luxury E-Class or 5-Series. Thanks for the advice. Now we get to be just as confused as ever!  Really, though, as I understand it, if they're giving us maybe $2k off the top, of a 2017 it would be a better investment than spending $5k less on a used one? The monthly payment differences look to be about $100 less.
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May 31, 2017 02:27
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks for the advice. Now we get to be just as confused as ever! How old are you looking? http://www.girardgibbs.com/subaru-oil-consumption-class-action-lawsuit/ There was a class action lawsuit again Subaru for excessive oil consumption. The link above lists all cars that are affected. Might be something to consider when you're looking at used Imprezas and something to look out for when you're looking at car maintenance records.
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May 31, 2017 02:55
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kansas posted:Thoughts on the Pacifica Hybird? We're in the market for a minivan and I was certain we were going to get an Odyssey or Sienna but just found out that with $9k in tax credits it costs about the same as an odyssey ex-l which is what we were looking at. In California gas is expensive and electricity is relative reasonable. I'd never think to consider a Chrysler due to reliability concerns, but if I can pick up a $46k car for $37k, and have almost all of my miles covered by electric, it's tempting. Looks like the core hybrid drive train is covered by a 10yr warranty which is about as long as we'll keep it. I'm looking at the Pacifica Hybrid in addition to the 2018 Honda Odyssey or 2018 Sienna. I suppose fuel efficiency is your priority, but I do want to solicit other opinions regarding the minivans.
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May 31, 2017 03:02
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DTaeKim posted:I'm looking at the Pacifica Hybrid in addition to the 2018 Honda Odyssey or 2018 Sienna. I suppose fuel efficiency is your priority, but I do want to solicit other opinions regarding the minivans. All three of those get top marks from everyone. None would be a bad pick. It just comes down to personal preference in the end.
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May 31, 2017 03:13
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks for the advice. Now we get to be just as confused as ever! Depends on your financing. Look at the total cost of the loan. Interest rates are usually lower on new than used. The interest rate can be worth thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. My 2012 Impreza was a first model year and has zero issues over the 70k miles I've driven it. It's in the class action group for oil burning, but it burns no oil. All I've had to do is scheduled maintenance. Beware - if they haven't improved the stock tires on the 2017, they're basically starter tires and barely last 30k miles. They're "all season" but are the worst tires I've ever used in the snow, even with AWD. Also Subaru paint is made of some form of soft cheese. Expect every pebble and grain of sand on the road to leave a hole. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:01 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 03:57
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Proposed Budget: $12,000 New or Used: Used Body Style: Some type boxy/compact classic either american or foreign How will you be using the car?: I want to use this as a car to drive around town and impress all the hot young lasses. Also want to learn how to work on cars. What aspects are most important to you? Looks, either the "thats kinda cool" or the "what the gently caress" kind. I don't need this thing to actually be fast although that is a plus. Price is pretty important as well, the cheaper the better. Availability of parts. How dumb would bidding on http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Ford-maverick-/272687509009 be? The shot of engine looks pretty rough but what the gently caress do I know. e: to clarify punch drunk fucked around with this message at 11:53 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 04:33
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punch drunk posted:Proposed Budget: $12,000 The Maverick was anything but a muscle car. It was just a cheap compact. Although it was kind of a girls' car, so maybe the ladies will be impressed. Everyone that owned one that I knew was a 20 or 30-something single mom. I guess there were option packages that put it out there (the Grabber), but they were rare. I mean if you like it, go for it - but it doesn't fit the muscle car paradigm you were looking for. A muscle car would need a V8 and 4 on the floor, at least. Stuff like a Pontiac GTO, Dodge Challenger, Ford Mustang 428, Chevy Chevelle SS or Camaro, Plymouth Barracuda and Road Runner. The car you highlighted certainly looks nice and seems to be in good shape. It would be a good car to fix up and drive, but it's not going to smoke any tires with an I6 and three-on-the-tree.
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May 31, 2017 05:02
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Deteriorata posted:The Maverick was anything but a muscle car. It was just a cheap compact. Although it was kind of a girls' car, so maybe the ladies will be impressed. Everyone that owned one that I knew was a 20 or 30-something single mom. I guess there were option packages that put it out there (the Grabber), but they were rare. Yeah the ladies thing was very much a joke, Im not looking to impress anyone, maybe just make people take a second glance and then they can realize its a piece of poo poo. I guess I really just want a manual classic that isnt a boat of a car. I currently drive a Scion xB and a Ford Transit Connect (which made the storage capability of the Scion redundant) so I am no stranger for being laughed at for my car. Im open to classic Japanese (and other foreign) compacts and tuners from that era 70s-80s as well. Just something that stands out a little. The important bits are boxy, classic, easy to work on and cheap enough. punch drunk fucked around with this message at 11:44 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 10:52
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks for the advice. Now we get to be just as confused as ever! Hey buddy don't shop on payment please. Depends on how used, etc - but you're talking about a $5K discount on a roughly $25K car at most, so it's a sizeable chunk of change to fork over for a new car. You have to decide if the following advantages are worth $5K to you. 1. About a year or two of additional life of the vehicle 2. A new vehicle warranty 3. The absolute knowledge that the only rear end in a top hat who really hosed with your car was the stevedore at the railhead or port To me, for an appliance, the answer is no - your mileage may vary!
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May 31, 2017 12:58
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punch drunk posted:Yeah the ladies thing was very much a joke, Im not looking to impress anyone, maybe just make people take a second glance and then they can realize its a piece of poo poo. Japanese stuff mostly rusted to poo poo by now. You could get a K-Car hahaha those are super boxy and terrible, you could also look at old VW Jettas which are boxy as gently caress. Turn of the 1980s BMWs (E28, E34 5 series) are boxy as gently caress and the drivetrains are fairly reliable - good luck with the other poo poo. Volvo 240 / 740. If you go back far enough the Ford Crown Vic and Lincoln Town Car are pretty boxy, are reliable, and still have a vast abundance of parts.
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May 31, 2017 13:02
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Looking at some used 2017 Subaru Foresters and wondering if there is a cause for concern here. The first has less than 1000 miles on it and here's the carfax, showing it's been transferred 4 times. Once to the dealer, then sold as a corporate car, then auctioned, and now at Subaru dealer for sale: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DLR_3&vin=JF2SJAEC7HH407746#undefined Any clue why this would happen? Also wondering if the factory 3 year/36k warranty would apply. It doesn't list on the Subaru dealer's website that it's certified pre-owned and Im wondering why not.
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May 31, 2017 13:32
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Japanese stuff mostly rusted to poo poo by now. I do really like old Volvos and those BMWs dont look bad. Is there a term for the styling of a sloped rear instead of very separate rear window and trunk? I prefer hard edges in the front and then the slope or even a hatch I think.
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May 31, 2017 14:03
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Japanese stuff mostly rusted to poo poo by now. Depends on where he lives. Japanese cars are a legit option on the west coast or in the southern states. Dimes and 240zs are the obvious choice, though expensive. 70s celicas have a pretty cool baby muscle car thing going on and are cheaper.
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May 31, 2017 14:11
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punch drunk posted:I do really like old Volvos and those BMWs dont look bad. yea its called a hatchback or fastback Accord/Civic hatchback would fit the bill if you can find one. So would the CRX but those are $$$. Early Acura Integra. Early Celica before it got all swoopy. Maybe a FB or FC RX-7? Dodge Omni? Ford Escort hatch? Z cars are too swoopy, I would think. dimes are great but if you don't really care about the car itself they aren't worth the money. I hate living in the Northeast for cars. edit: oooh, ooh, early fox body mustang. just get the GT and grow a mullet. or if you're a bow-tie guy you can get a Camaro i guess. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 14:20 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 14:16
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nwiniwn posted:Looking at some used 2017 Subaru Foresters and wondering if there is a cause for concern here. Based on a recent Lehto's Law podcast, this sounds a lot like a recycled lemon.
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May 31, 2017 14:19
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nm posted:Depends on where he lives. Japanese cars are a legit option on the west coast or in the southern states. Dimes and 240zs are the obvious choice, though expensive. 70s celicas have a pretty cool baby muscle car thing going on and are cheaper. Currently in NY unfortunately but Im out on the west coast a decent amount. Also dont mind taking a long trip to pick this up. Those 70s Celicas are super cool. e: fffff those Datsuns are also sick. punch drunk fucked around with this message at 14:30 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 14:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Based on a recent Lehto's Law podcast, this sounds a lot like a recycled lemon. Looking at the Carfax I think there's a high chance the car was used as a loaner by Ira. See if you can pull service records, that should give you a decent idea of its status.
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May 31, 2017 14:28
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punch drunk posted:Currently in NY unfortunately but Im out on the west coast a decent amount. Also dont mind taking a long trip to pick this up. There's a Datsun 280z in my neighborhood, fully oxidized red paint, no rust, just parked in front of someone's house - definitely not for sale. I'll snap a photo the next time I walk the dog by there.
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May 31, 2017 15:24
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Very close to me and I want it.
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May 31, 2017 16:07
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I currently have an 06 xtrail and a 2010 ranger RWD that I'm looking to trade in either a 2010 F150 with 76k km, or a 2012 with 90k km. The 2010 has the 4.6l v8, the 2012 has the 3.7 v6 duratec. Both are XLT models. The 2010 is $20k, the 2012 is $21.5k. Ofcourse the 2012 has a few more bells a whistles. The 2010 does come with a tounea cover and a sunroof though. Which would be the better deal, anyone?
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May 31, 2017 16:17
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:3. The absolute knowledge that the only rear end in a top hat who really hosed with your car was the stevedore at the railhead or port Does this change depending on the type of car? MK7 GTIs are starting to come off-lease and that puts them into my theoretical "could afford" zone, but I'm concerned that buying a used car that's kind of meant to be driven hard means it will have been driven hard. Is this pretty much negated by CPO or should I just stop looking at sporty cars if I want something I can buy used and expect 5+ years of reliability out of? Also yes I know I've been theory-crafting a car purchase for months now, I'm still a ways out from actually pulling the trigger on something but the process is addictive.
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May 31, 2017 16:29
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Thermopyle posted:Well, I mean what's the downside to the F150? You say it's big, but is that an actual issue for you? I have a 2001 F150 that is pretty fantastic for almost the exact use cases you're looking for. *about to complain about body style on a truck I intend on using as a beater* Did that era have issues with the front suspension falling apart? Or am I thinking of the Explorer/Sport Trac?
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May 31, 2017 16:32
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I wouldn't want an off lease performance car pretty much period. Doubly so it it's a stick.
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May 31, 2017 16:41
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FogHelmut posted:*about to complain about body style on a truck I intend on using as a beater* That would be the explorer. The whole front end falls apart. The only real suspension problem with that gen F150/expedition is the non-greasable pitman arm that can easily be swapped out.
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May 31, 2017 16:42
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prom candy posted:Does this change depending on the type of car? MK7 GTIs are starting to come off-lease and that puts them into my theoretical "could afford" zone, but I'm concerned that buying a used car that's kind of meant to be driven hard means it will have been driven hard. Is this pretty much negated by CPO or should I just stop looking at sporty cars if I want something I can buy used and expect 5+ years of reliability out of? CPO is bullshit. Don't expect 8 total service life years out of a VW. I would advise not buying sporty and used especially in manual transmission form, unless you know the car well or are prepared to deal with issues.
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May 31, 2017 18:24
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prom candy posted:Does this change depending on the type of car? MK7 GTIs are starting to come off-lease and that puts them into my theoretical "could afford" zone, but I'm concerned that buying a used car that's kind of meant to be driven hard means it will have been driven hard. Is this pretty much negated by CPO or should I just stop looking at sporty cars if I want something I can buy used and expect 5+ years of reliability out of? Stop trying to find the absolute perfect solution. Trying to suss out a cost differential of 10 cents per month is just a way of forever postponing the decision. Select on a pool of acceptable cars, then pick the one you like best and don't look back.
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May 31, 2017 18:30
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Looking at the Carfax I think there's a high chance the car was used as a loaner by Ira. See if you can pull service records, that should give you a decent idea of its status. Yeah I went to the dealership and they think what happened was one dealer bought it from another one and then used it as a corporate car for a while. In other news, how can I find out what my car is actually worth through trade in? I have a 2015 Mazda 3 hatchback itouring 6-speed with 29k miles. Admittedly, i hosed up the bumper scraping it pretty badly to the point it would need total replacement which is about $8-900. Everything else about the car is completely fine in my opinion, including new tires that are less than 2000 miles old. The dealership I just went to offered 9500 initially, and said they wouldn't go higher than 10000, saying my car was in "fair condition" not including the damage and used some site called VIN Viper. Blue book puts me at $11,400 in good condition for trade-in, and clear book estimates it at like 13-14k for some reason. One of the guys at a Mazda dealership said the car was in high demand if I ever wanted to trade it in, but I'm thinking that was just salesman talk at this point. That Subaru is definitely exactly what I want and they said they don't negotiate on the price of their cars, so I'm just trying to see what my car is actually worth.
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May 31, 2017 19:08
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Keep in mind trade-ins are a way for the dealer to make more money off of you, you will not be getting market value for your car because that's not how it works. You could try selling private party but I don't know how Craigslist works when the prices are that high. Personally I would eat the spread (what I call the bid-ask spread) between market value and the highest price they're willing to give you. Dealership people will say every trade in is in high demand to get you to trade it in and buy another car, a very common tactic. Selling cars is lovely and I'm pretty sure you always lose a bunch of money in the process unless you are a skilled mechanic and buy broken cars that you fix and then sell. And unless you are a dealer. $10k sounds like an exceedingly fair trade-in for a '15 Mazda3 with 30k miles and significant bumper damage. I say pull the trigger. PS bumper cover replacement unless the underlying structure is damaged (ie it is just a scrape) should cost $3-500 for a near-perfect paint blended OEM looking bumper, not 8-900. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 19:16
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nwiniwn posted:Yeah I went to the dealership and they think what happened was one dealer bought it from another one and then used it as a corporate car for a while. Rule number one: unless you're at a Scion or Saturn dealership, everyone negotiates on the price of cars. If you plan to sell the car on CL, fix the bumper first. (I recommend my main man Dave Winters at Woburn Foreign Auto Body) I still doubt you'll get more than $12K private party, and you'll have to fix the bumper and then deal with CL people. But you can try to negotiate that trade value all day long if you want - they're going to get a certain amount of margin out of you between the car you trade in and the car you purchase, but you can cut that to the minimum if you are willing to work - and if you're willing to walk. Subaru sells like a hundred thousand Foresters a year, you don't need to buy this one.
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May 31, 2017 22:22
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nwiniwn posted:Yeah I went to the dealership and they think what happened was one dealer bought it from another one and then used it as a corporate car for a while. You could try doing a quick offer on Cars.com. https://www.cars.com/sell/
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May 31, 2017 23:45
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Trevor Hale posted:You could try doing a quick offer on Cars.com. Step 1) create throwaway email Step 2) submit form Step 3) get a bazillion lovely lowball offers Step 4) never do this again
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Jun 1, 2017 02:45
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Step 1) create throwaway email With less chance of murder than craigslist.
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Jun 1, 2017 03:08
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I've been looking at trucks online for a while now, thinking about getting one... Possible uses include the following... -5th wheeler hauler or, camper trailer in the back bed, or hauling a trailer with a classic ball hitch. (Living quarters for cheap for work, not one of those 50k 5th wheels.) -Converting it to have a bed that dumps stuff. Having never owned a truck before (used to drive my grand father's land cruiser) what would be something worth looking at? Is there anything similar size wise that can haul more weight? I'm thinking of one of the following: Ford-150 or 250 with inline 6 gasoline engine (up until 1996) First Gen Dodge Cummins (up until 1993) Any others I might want to look at? I'd like something with an inline 6. (I think they're generally more reliable but maybe I'm wrong.) A few questions I had... 2WD vs. 4WD? Manual transmission vs. Automatic.? Cost of parts? How do I know I'm not getting screwed when buying a used truck? Is there a certain age and mileage range I should be aiming for? (I was thinking anything in the 150k-170k mileage range.) Comedy Options (If I could I would probably buy all of these.): http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/,26,/23128/DAF_4X4_Truck.htm https://abbotsford.craigslist.ca/cto/6156112834.html https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/6112779517.html https://bellingham.craigslist.org/cto/6153202896.html Senor P. fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 04:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I would advise not buying sporty and used especially in manual transmission form, unless you know the car well or are prepared to deal with issues. Does this include even stuff like a Honda Accord Sport manual transmission or a Mazda3 2.5 manual transmission or just actual performance cars?
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Jun 1, 2017 05:01
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Senor P. posted:I've been looking at trucks online for a while now, thinking about getting one... Dude, you gotta narrow this down a lot. Fifth wheel hitch and putting things in the bed are incompatible uses. Dump bed makes it worthless for anything else and isn't cost-effective unless your a contractor. There is no comparison between a CTD and a Ford 300. They are wildly difference driving experiences. Inline six is theoretically more durable than a V8, but practically it doesn't matter. 4x4 is useless unless you need it. Manual is not advisable with a trailer from my extensive experience. A towing rig is a very specific thing. You don't just buy whatever and start towing a massive trailer around.
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Jun 1, 2017 06:10
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