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Oh yeah, I know what you mean. Mill some dowel holes + pockets and epoxy some neodymium buttons in there and call it a day. I think I'd be a little concerned about the magnets cracking given the stresses guillotine tooling has to deal with and/or the whole thing getting magnetized and the upper die not wanting to slide freely, but there are ways to avoid either. Not a bad idea!
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May 24, 2017 15:55
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Welded up a wall mount for a garden hose reel. Soon I will have the exterior wall of my house decorated with tool holders like my shop: 
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May 26, 2017 05:50
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Look you can actually print useful stuff with your old massively overpriced wooden makerbot, I got the model off of thingiverse but the dims were wrong for my lathe so I ended up redesigning it in fusion.
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May 27, 2017 13:56
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Pimblor posted:Look you can actually print useful stuff with your old massively overpriced wooden makerbot, I got the model off of thingiverse but the dims were wrong for my lathe so I ended up redesigning it in fusion. I don't work with lathes but that's a really cool idea. And speaking of metalworking machines, we picked up our first VMC the other day, so it'll be pretty cool to learn some cnc milling after working exclusively with wire for 16 years.
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May 27, 2017 13:58
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A Proper Uppercut posted:I don't work with lathes but that's a really cool idea. Thanks! I've been trying to come up with some form of readout for the old southbend after getting a "dro" for my bigger sheldon. I'm still working on that main gear in Fusion here and there. My own homebrew CNC machine I made years ago with 1/4-20" all thread has begun developing problems so I think it may be time to contemplate upgrading it. How many axes does the new VMC have?
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May 27, 2017 14:19
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There's a gear making add on for fusion I think if you haven't checked it out already.
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May 27, 2017 18:00
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A Proper Uppercut posted:I don't work with lathes but that's a really cool idea. Checkout CNC Cookbook's blogs and tools for speeds and feeds calculation. Really helps you make informed decisions about important stuff.
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May 27, 2017 18:49
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Rapulum_Dei posted:There's a gear making add on for fusion I think if you haven't checked it out already. There's actually a better one than the included one that Karia clued me into. Behold! Almost a perfect replica:   I'm almost tempted to put it back in the gear box to see if it works for a few minutes. I mean, what's the worst that could happen?  I'm kinda tempted after I make the second spur gear (the one that's all chewed up in the middle): 
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May 27, 2017 22:02
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Karia posted:
Just to pluck at your gray matter again, how would I go about modeling this gear? 
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May 27, 2017 22:28
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Pimblor posted:Thanks! I've been trying to come up with some form of readout for the old southbend after getting a "dro" for my bigger sheldon. I'm still working on that main gear in Fusion here and there. My own homebrew CNC machine I made years ago with 1/4-20" all thread has begun developing problems so I think it may be time to contemplate upgrading it. Just a 3 axis. A Hurco VMX30 I think? As for the speeds and feeds stuff, I think I actually found an android app that seems to have good numbers. I also work with a guy who had been doing milling for like 25 years before joining us so I'm gonna learn as much from him as possible.
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May 27, 2017 23:16
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Just a 3 axis. A Hurco VMX30 I think? Cool, I run a vmx42 at work. You going to do cam programming for it or conversational?
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May 27, 2017 23:53
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honda whisperer posted:Cool, I run a vmx42 at work. You going to do cam programming for it or conversational? Right now just conversational. We have cam software for our wires so we can do dxfs and work off of those. How does something like mastercam work with these hurcos seeing as they don't use g code?
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May 28, 2017 00:08
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You can switch editors between conversational and gcode. It's somewhere under the utility screen. It will even retain part and tool setups between nc and conversational if you check the setting for it. If you've got any questions about it feel free to ask. Edit: also if it's got the option installed you can pull up dxfs with it and use them to get profiles, hole locations, and pattern locations dropped straight into the conversational side.
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May 28, 2017 00:57
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honda whisperer posted:You can switch editors between conversational and gcode. It's somewhere under the utility screen. It will even retain part and tool setups between nc and conversational if you check the setting for it. Ah okay, we didn't even get into the NC side of things, that's why I didn't see it. And yea, it has that dxf thing, just used it the other day, worked great.
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May 28, 2017 01:18
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Right now just conversational. We have cam software for our wires so we can do dxfs and work off of those. I learned cam programming (CAM Works for Solidwoks 2007) on a VM1 in 2007 so they definitely do g code. Back then the WINMAX conversational control was dogshit compared to CAM. I bet now it is 10x worse. Take the initiative, learn mastercam, convince someone to buy a probe if they dont already have it, learn about constant engagement angle toolpaths (branded "dynamic milling" in Mastercam) and be the guy to lead your shop into a new era of productivity and fewer setup parts. You can seriously be the shop hero by getting out in front of technology instead of what sounds like WAY WAY behind it. Mastercam is a good piece of software too, the UI/UX isn't great but once you learn it man does it work awesome. I mentioned probing. Once you start using a probe to set up your parts you will never ever go back. It really is a game changer in setting up, not crashing your machines, not chipping your cutters during risky setups, etc. Also makes remachining and checking that your part is fixture properly a breeze. Lastly it serves as a pretty good CMM of last resort. I wrote a bunch of stuff but its because based on what youre describing as the state of your shop with milling, you can put in just a little time and effort and be the shop hero. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WflVX6yEocE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCB4fEiyGRo CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 01:45 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 01:39
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CarForumPoster posted:I learned cam programming (CAM Works for Solidwoks 2007) on a VM1 in 2007 so they definitely do g code. Hey I appreciate the effort posting. We are primarily a wire edm shop and picked this up mainly for supplemental needs. We have a guy working here who ran mills for 20+ years and does know mastercam and NC programming on the mill, and I also know g code pretty good from running the wires for so long. We'll probably end up picking up mastercam eventually once we start doing more complex stuff. All we've been doing this past week is pretty simple contours on parts using soft jaws and the dxf editor combined with the conversational, which I've actually found works really well for what we're doing now. Either way I'm excited to add some new poo poo to the resume.
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May 28, 2017 02:32
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CarForumPoster posted:I learned cam programming (CAM Works for Solidwoks 2007) on a VM1 in 2007 so they definitely do g code. Of course, probes aren't a magic bullet. They can be a bitch to deal with when the battery is getting low or they aren't functioning properly, they're expensive as gently caress and people will crash them, and there's all sorts of quirks with the spindle since it has to remain oriented through the whole probe process. It's still really nice, especially for having the ability to write programs that probe parts 100% to comp for variance in your parts and in loading. And it's generally quicker than using an edge finder. But it does introduce a lot of other problems, and there's been more than one occasion where I've gotten through with it and been like man I should've just touched a tool off on the part for Z instead of loving with all this for a half hour. One thing worth mentioning is that the haimer 3d sensor functions as a ghetto probe, and I've heard good things about it. So that might be more in your budget.
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May 28, 2017 07:04
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Volkerball posted:Of course, probes aren't a magic bullet. They can be a bitch to deal with when the battery is getting low or they aren't functioning properly, they're expensive as gently caress and people will crash them, and there's all sorts of quirks with the spindle since it has to remain oriented through the whole probe process. It's still really nice, especially for having the ability to write programs that probe parts 100% to comp for variance in your parts and in loading. And it's generally quicker than using an edge finder. But it does introduce a lot of other problems, and there's been more than one occasion where I've gotten through with it and been like man I should've just touched a tool off on the part for Z instead of loving with all this for a half hour. Good points. I have definitely broke a few rubies and a few ceramic tips, and I had to get pretty good at recalibrating them when I did that. There's definitely a cost to probing. Another good point is using it to offset tools. I had an awesome optical tool setter to use with the probe, so I knew all my tool offsets (both Z and dia), which leads me to this. Optical tool setters have come way down in price (from 100k to 10k) IMO no reason not to own one. You can use a cheapie height gauge if you cant outlay another 10k for tooling. I worked in a shop that didnt do runs of more than 10 parts, and would need 3-4 setups a day it was the bees knees. I'd go in the tool room, set up all my stuff in its holders, get print outs of the heights and be off to the machine in 15 minutes for 10 tools. Every setup had a reliable process to follow to get moving and it so there was very little screwing around with adjustments.
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May 28, 2017 13:00
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Toolsetters are awesome until you get some lazy POS in the crib that doesn't understand how this works, only actually measures one, sends you a tray of 45 drills labeled with identical Z-offsets down to to the micron, and management can't or won't understand why this is a problem. Not bitter. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 14:11 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 14:09
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg__B6Ca3jc So this is pretty neat - turns out you can make a waterjet cutter with an off the shelf pressure washer and some waterjet parts. Looks like the build costs ~$500, with most of that going into the mixing chamber/nozzle. The video shows it cutting 1/8" aluminum and 3/8" hardwood. Though I suppose the lower pressure means it's nowhere as versatile/useful as a proper one since you can't use it to cut pretty much everything.
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Jun 1, 2017 00:11
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rawrr posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg__B6Ca3jc I saw that one, and then ran across a $20 EDM set up! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRPmSgfIJqY
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Jun 1, 2017 00:18
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Sorry for the double post, but meant to post this first. I have a lincoln power mig 200 in my possession, and the little dealy knob that adjusts the wire feed tension was locked solid. I could feel it "stepping" if you will and surmised that the nut was locked on. I pressed it out of the plastic knob, and lo and behold I was right.   So the part that stripped out isn't really necessary for completely slacking off the spring so I think I'm ok.  I ran a 9mm x 1.00 die down the remaining good thread and it seems ok, I'm thinking of just turning a piece of round stock and tapping it to replace the bullshit plastic knob. Other than losing the scale for the tension, is there anything I should be thinking of? The replacement part is $70 which is why I'm even contemplating this little project. (It's a M19179 if anyone happens to have a spare )
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Jun 1, 2017 00:30
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rawrr posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg__B6Ca3jc Jesus christ this thing looks insanely dangerous. Under no circumstances should you ever have your fingers an inch away from a completely unshielded running waterjet. Oh god it gets worse. Here are some areas I'm concerned about : -He's modified the safety release valve to permit higher pressure within the pump and system than the manufacturer designed it for -He's removed the electrical cutoff feature of the safety release valve, so now there is nothing cutting power to the pump in an overpressure situation -He's running the pump at over 20 amps when it was designed to run at 15, and doing so on a 20A circuit "for short periods of time" to avoid tripping the 20A circuit breaker -He's running 2900PSI hose at 3200PSI and relying on the "overdesign" safety margin of the hose manufacturer to keep it safe This guy seems cool and fun etc. but nobody should try what he's doing at home and I feel like it's pretty irresponsible of him to put this build up on Youtube. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 01:12
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What's a good spot to find old machine tools? Just estate sales? I have an old Craftsman 101 (Atlas) lathe and I'm looking for the change gears and the m6-500 milling attachment. I see them on ebay, but for a hojillion dollars, and even the Phoenix Craigslist is pretty dead re: machine tools. Are there parts websites? Also, allegedly AliExpress will ship me 3 meters of 2 inch aluminum for $19. Seems too good to be true, so I threw them the money and will report back.
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Jun 1, 2017 03:49
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Leperflesh posted:Jesus christ this thing looks insanely dangerous. Under no circumstances should you ever have your fingers an inch away from a completely unshielded running waterjet. he should google "hydraulic injection"
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Jun 1, 2017 06:11
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Pimblor posted:Just to pluck at your gray matter again, how would I go about modeling this gear? Sorry for the delay here, been on vacation. Bevel gears are, unsurprisingly, a bit more complicated (though the theory is basically the same.) I did find a bevel gear modelling plugin for Fusion (https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=2791960362914790676&appLang=en&os=Win64), if you have issues with it I can install Fusion this weekend and play around with it. Basic concepts: bevel gears generally function like a normal spur gear, except that the teeth are wrapped around a cone section rather than a cylinder. The pitch diameter (remember that's the diameter when they're contacting at the center of the tooth) shrinks as you go up the gear, forming a cone. Both mated gear cones have to taper towards the same point, and the teeth on each gear also taper towards that point (so they get smaller as you go further up the gear. If you had a gear that was a full cone, extending all the way up to the focal point, the teeth would be infinitely small at the top.) Your basic process will be to model the outside geometry, figure out the tooth form at the outside of the gear, and then cut that all the way to the center. Here's a video on how to draw a bevel gear set in Fusion. Note that this is an approximate solution: they just use a 3 point arc rather than the real octoid tooth form, so this isn't really going to work perfectly (more sperging on tooth shape below.) But it should be more than good enough if you just need a graphical model or are 3d printing them (trust me: if you're 3d printing gears for any significant load then tooth form is going to be the least of your worries.) If I get sufficiently bored this weekend I'll try to figure out the deviation of a 3 point arc from the optimal gear shape for some example numbers. Approximate modelling of a bevel gear set: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHNkGQePP-Y More on tooth-form: it's complicated. Are you familiar with the term involute? It describes the shape of the teeth on a spur gear, and is the path traced as you unwrap a string from a cylinder. A couple resources on that here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute_gear https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Involute However, that doesn't exactly work for bevel gears, since the gear isn't cylindrical. Instead, the gear shape is formed via an octoid, which is basically the same concept but with the the "string" wrapped around a cone and being unwrapped perpendicular to its surface. I'm not sure what the best way to model an octoid is, but it's most likely something similar to the below empirical modelling video, which approximates an involute with 5 points (which should get you incredibly close to the correct theoretical shape, but is not technically correct. There is no closed-form equation or method for perfectly modelling a theoretical involute.) Empirical modelling of an involute: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWgJZFWPgTs If there's anything you want more detail on, let me know and I can try to find some more sources to point you towards or do a more complete writeup with pictures this weekend.
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Jun 1, 2017 06:29
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:What's a good spot to find old machine tools? Just estate sales? I have an old Craftsman 101 (Atlas) lathe and I'm looking for the change gears and the m6-500 milling attachment. I see them on ebay, but for a hojillion dollars, and even the Phoenix Craigslist is pretty dead re: machine tools. Are there parts websites? Ebay is usually my first stop. Estate sales usually translates into "I'm selling grandpa's poo poo now that he's in the home". I've gone to a few estate sales to see some machines and usually found old, rusted garbage that only has value to the guy who owns it. Machine tools are in a weird world where price and value can have little relevance. Take a 1950's bridgeport that has a terrible 110V motor and people will fist-fight over it at an auction. Take a larger milling machine from the 1970's add 1000 lbs, a 3 phase motor, and tooling, and you can't give it away. Someone will literally buy it for scrap. If there's a large quantity of machines in the wild you'll likely find someone hawking parts, or even new parts. You see this with Bridgeport and Cincinnatis. I found a Yahoo Group that actually seems active for Atlas Craftsman machines. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/atlas_craftsman/info might wanna check there. AliExpress I actually just had a very positive experience with Aliexpress. We purchased a throw away 2200W milling spindle to use as an internal grinding spindle. It came with collets, a VFD, a lovely little pump, and the spindle. All for $400. The wiring was crude, the connectors lovely, but it was smooth at 24k RPM. We ground up some ID bores and had about 30 millionths of runout. Very impressed with what I got. On the downside it had no documentation, not even wiring diagram, the hose fittings were cracked, and lacked even a brand name. I have a feeling in the long run it'd be a flaming turd. But I'll use it maybe once, or twice, the next decade. So no big deal. How raw materials are though, no idea, just ask for a cert.
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Jun 1, 2017 12:37
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Blah blah blah safety concerns, that waterjet cutter is giving me ideas. I'd been thinking of a CNC hotwire cutter for cutting foamboard for car bodywork (IE, section it in 2" slices, glue foamboards together, sand) and it seems like the waterjet would be perfect for that. Even funnier would be if I just used some of the gas powered pressure washer stuff I took home from work.
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Jun 1, 2017 14:24
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Sagebrush posted:he should google "hydraulic injection" For a fun time, go through the youtube video comments. The dozen people pointing out the dangers are piled on by legions of morons, even after a few of them posted their actual training and qualifications and links to information about hydraulic injection. Some idiots simply won't accept that the danger is worse than, say, working with a bandsaw. Which just even more highlights the irresponsibility of posting a video like this without embedding a lot of earnest, urgent messages about how loving dangerous it is.
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Jun 1, 2017 19:59
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Still working on buying an anvil and making a tiny bit of progress on my gas forge. Starting to think about what things I should work on first to get a handle on the basics. Maybe making some tongs and other tools? What would you goons suggest? I want to plan out a schedule of things to make so I can keep from slacking off when I should be swinging a hammer and also make sure I have the supplies I'll need for each project ahead of time.
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Jun 1, 2017 20:37
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Karia posted:--snip massive wall of amazing info-- I wasn't even sure what kind of gear that was so really thanks for that indepth answer. I understood about a quarter of that but can sort of wrap my head around the Involute stuff. (Not the math yet though.) I don't understand any of the parameters in that plugin, but I made something that is close to the actual bevel gear. I'll take some measurements and see if I can't poke your brain some more. One point, I'm just 3d printing the gears to see how close they are to the real thing. I probably won't try to stuff it in the actual gear box. Once I get something that looks like it's going to work, I'm going to ask A Proper Uppercut very nicely to make me some with his super nifty EDM thingy.
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Jun 1, 2017 20:38
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Yooper posted:Ebay is usually my first stop. Estate sales usually translates into "I'm selling grandpa's poo poo now that he's in the home". I've gone to a few estate sales to see some machines and usually found old, rusted garbage that only has value to the guy who owns it. Machine tools are in a weird world where price and value can have little relevance. Take a 1950's bridgeport that has a terrible 110V motor and people will fist-fight over it at an auction. Take a larger milling machine from the 1970's add 1000 lbs, a 3 phase motor, and tooling, and you can't give it away. Someone will literally buy it for scrap. To be fair, that extra 1000lbs and three phase motor for some reason are out of the average persons game. An old bridgeport can at least go in the back of a U-Haul (and ruin it  ). I got a Brown and Sharpe No 2 Light universal milling machine with the vertical attachment and 4 arbors for it for like $65 + buyers premium. I was literally the only bid on it. When I got it home I was doing something squirrely on my forklift trying to noodge it into place and almost tipped everything rear end over tea kettle. (Forklift included.)
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Jun 1, 2017 20:45
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SwitchbladeKult posted:Still working on buying an anvil and making a tiny bit of progress on my gas forge. Starting to think about what things I should work on first to get a handle on the basics. Maybe making some tongs and other tools? What would you goons suggest? I want to plan out a schedule of things to make so I can keep from slacking off when I should be swinging a hammer and also make sure I have the supplies I'll need for each project ahead of time. Tongs are 'extremely important' but the tongs I made with a weekend course under my belt are unuseably godawful, doing them properly in a way that isn't frustrating to use can be tricky. You can get by with sacrificial vicegrips (the springs tend to overheat and de-temper and they fall apart eventually) or a single pair of commercial tongs for a long while, so I'd start with stuff with simple geometries that'll work the fundamentals of moving steel. Hot chisels, cold chisels, centre punches, maybe some splitting chisels and drifts if you want to start making holes in stuff without needing to go to the drill press- you'll use them all, and they're all simple to manufacture and- for the chisels/punches, which you should make from a hardenable steel- very forgiving to heat-treat.
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Jun 2, 2017 01:26
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Tongs are 'extremely important' but the tongs I made with a weekend course under my belt are unuseably godawful, doing them properly in a way that isn't frustrating to use can be tricky... I have no relation to this guy other than being a happy customer, but Ken's Custom Iron has a set of almost finished tongs for pretty cheap. I got them and they are a lot easier to finish than tongs are to make from scratch. Leperflesh posted:For a fun time, go through the youtube video comments. The dozen people pointing out the dangers are piled on by legions of morons, even after a few of them posted their actual training and qualifications and links to information about hydraulic injection. Some idiots simply won't accept that the danger is worse than, say, working with a bandsaw. I'm astonished by how many people are just blase as gently caress about safety. Since when am I a baby for wanting to keep both my EYES? I've spent real money on proper eye protection. And yeah I look like a real dork in my birth control glasses, but I'm not trying to flush fragments out of my eye every night, either. I was helping someone do some framing in a warehouse. He pulls out a gunpowder driven nailgun, so I pull out my hearing protection. A couple of people look at me, and one says "oh, do you have sensitive hearing?" NO MOTHERFUCKER THAT IS GUNFIRE! You don't need SENSITIVE hearing, and after a few of those, you certainly won't HAVE sensitive hearing. Pagan fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 2, 2017 |
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Jun 2, 2017 02:16
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rawrr posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg__B6Ca3jc Based on similar experiments, it could probably do ~1/4" aluminum, and about half that in mild steel. The problem with lower pressure is that it'll eat though much much more abrasive than a higher pressure machine, which is cheap, but no so cheap to be negligible. It's also a consumable, because it's damaged in the process, and contaminated with whatever you're cutting.
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Jun 2, 2017 02:20
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Pagan posted:I'm astonished by how many people are just blase as gently caress about safety. Since when am I a baby for wanting to keep both my EYES? I've spent real money on proper eye protection. And yeah I look like a real dork in my birth control glasses, but I'm not trying to flush fragments out of my eye every night, either. I was working at a metal shop where the foreman forbid me from wearing hearing protection because it made it hard to hear verbal instructions. coincidentally, every single human working in the warehouse had varying degrees of tinnitus. i got out after a couple weeks because gently caress that noise, literally
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Jun 2, 2017 03:16
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I was working at a metal shop where the foreman forbid me from wearing hearing protection because it made it hard to hear verbal instructions. coincidentally, every single human working in the warehouse had varying degrees of tinnitus. i got out after a couple weeks because gently caress that noise, literally You always have to yell in a shop. Either people can't hear, because they're wearing hearing protection, or they don't wear hearing protection so they can't hear anyway.
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Jun 2, 2017 03:34
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Or you get some Howard Leight amplifying earmuffs and call it a day. I used them in the Army, and have two sets at home. They block loud noise but can amplify so well you hear a squirrel fart at 20 meters. Also they have an aux in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O
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Jun 2, 2017 07:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Tongs are 'extremely important' but the tongs I made with a weekend course under my belt are unuseably godawful, doing them properly in a way that isn't frustrating to use can be tricky. You can get by with sacrificial vicegrips (the springs tend to overheat and de-temper and they fall apart eventually) or a single pair of commercial tongs for a long while, so I'd start with stuff with simple geometries that'll work the fundamentals of moving steel. Hot chisels, cold chisels, centre punches, maybe some splitting chisels and drifts if you want to start making holes in stuff without needing to go to the drill press- you'll use them all, and they're all simple to manufacture and- for the chisels/punches, which you should make from a hardenable steel- very forgiving to heat-treat. Thank you! Very good suggestions as always. Pagan posted:I have no relation to this guy other than being a happy customer, but Ken's Custom Iron has a set of almost finished tongs for pretty cheap. I got them and they are a lot easier to finish than tongs are to make from scratch. I'll check out those tongs. People are way too concerned with how manly they look while working in a shop. I don't give a gently caress how I look. I want to be able to hear and see when I'm in my 60s. I would also like to keep all my fingers and toes! I took a class on demolition torch use and the instructor was telling us why it is better to not wear gloves. He said hot slag can pop up and get into your glove through the top and be trapped against your skin. I insisted on wearing gloves anyways and turned out that actually happened to me. Had a nice burn on the back of my hand. One of the students walked up behind the instructor, however, and the instructor not knowing the guy was standing there turned to do something and ran a torch over the guys hand! He was wearing gloves, luckily, and so we didn't have the stop the class to rush a man to the ER. I'll take a small burn on the back of my hand over losing a chunk of skin.
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Jun 2, 2017 10:59
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There are elbow-length gloves, or you can tuck the open flare of gauntlet-style gloves into the sleeves of your welding jacket. One risk is not being able to quickly flick off your glove when an ember is burning through it or something, which I imagine is the reason I don't see welding gloves with a cinch or tie at the back?
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Jun 2, 2017 19:46
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