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I've got a 2010 Honda Civic with the peeling paint flaw that many of that generation had. I had it at the dealership on a weekend in April and I saw another same generation Civic with identical paint problems. When I got home I started searching online - there's an extended service bulletin for seven years past the date of purchase for warranty repair on this flaw. I took it back to the dealer the following Monday to take pictures and submit to their factory rep. They declined repairs, because the original owner purchased in March of 2010 and it was near the end of April 2017, six weeks out of warranty. After back and forth with the service department over the last few weeks they've gotten the factory rep to cover half the repair cost. The service rep said that the typical total repair estimate for this type of paint work is around $2500. Should I push this any further, or should I just suck it up and let it go? Yeah, I was a few weeks out of warranty - that's my fault. But I've gone to these guys for the major service interval work over the last year. No one ever said anything to me about the open ESB, and I didn't realize it was a flaw on a lot of different Civics.
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Jun 1, 2017 15:41
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While doing exhaust header gaskets I noticed that the porcelain is cracked on a few spark plugs. How bad is that and should I replace them? I've never changed them on this truck before and bought it used, so I don't know how many miles are on them.
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Jun 1, 2017 18:32
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When in doubt, swap 'em out!
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Jun 1, 2017 18:36
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$1250 to repaint probably every horizontal panel is a great deal. And yes, you should replace those plugs for sure. The question is, can you get them out?
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Jun 1, 2017 18:38
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I've got a 2010 Honda Civic with the peeling paint flaw that many of that generation had Flaw existed before warranty ran out. I would stand my ground and berate them for not mentioning it at previous services as it is a known issue on their end, could be interpreted as them trying to take advantage of trusting customers by withholding information like that.
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Jun 1, 2017 19:09
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kid sinister posted:While doing exhaust header gaskets I noticed that the porcelain is cracked on a few spark plugs. How bad is that and should I replace them? I've never changed them on this truck before and bought it used, so I don't know how many miles are on them. Yes change them out. Important question, is it a Ford? If so, what year and what engine?
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Jun 1, 2017 19:16
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Double checked my battery: Off, no load: 12.91v Off, load (headlights) :12.2v (slowly going down) Idle, no load: 14.33v Idle, load (headlights): 14.27v Off, after idling: 13.5v (dropping) So yeah, new battery time. Are reconditioned batteries generally as good as a new one? Headlights don't change brightness during idle when revving so I assume the alternator is good. Would a failing battery be a cause of rough starting? Idles and drives fine. But coughs and splutters and sometimes fails/stalls when starting sometimes. Also, feels like it has low power/sometimes stalls if I don't hit the gas when taking off from 1st, compared to other manuals I've owned. Is that a pathfinder thing or do you think there's something else going on?
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Jun 1, 2017 19:30
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`Nemesis posted:Yes change them out. I know what you're thinking, but no, it isn't one of the mid 2000s 5.4 engines. Mine is a 1988 302.
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Jun 1, 2017 21:11
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rdb posted:$1250 to repaint probably every horizontal panel is a great deal. If it was still under the extended warranty they'll only fix the panels that are affected, just the roof in this case. Anything that showed up afterwards isn't covered.
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Jun 1, 2017 21:52
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Outrail posted:Double checked my battery: Wait what? The figures you listed sound 100% normal/healthy.
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Jun 1, 2017 22:10
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Michael Scott posted:Wait what? The figures you listed sound 100% normal/healthy. 
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Jun 1, 2017 22:12
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What? Just went out and checked again, haven't started it for 24 hours or so but should be more or less fully charged since I did about 200km on Tuesday. Off, headlights off:12.5 Off, headlights on:12.1 I guess I got confused. Looks like it's around 80% (right?) which is pretty good given the balls cold winters we get up here. If that's the case where should I be looking for poor power/startup failure? I've recently changed my fuel/air/oil filters.
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Jun 1, 2017 22:39
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Outrail posted:What? Yeah I mean, all the numbers are right where they should be. Does your car have a fuel pressure regulator? That caused long crank startup issues for me on a car I had before. A mechanic will have a tool to test fuel pressure. No issues on hard acceleration? If there are issues, it could also be a fuel pump.
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Jun 1, 2017 23:03
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I have a 1994 Subaru Loyale with the 1.8 EFI and an AT. It's got 171k and it's idling pretty rough. Here's a video of it, the whole car shakes with it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR4xZ0ddVSI I did the spark plugs, and it just passed CA smog pretty well, so I know the timing must be right or right enough (OBD1 they check timing, I'm pretty sure). Otherwise it's a bit of an unknown for me. I got the car at 169k, drove it from SF to Moab and back and am now trying to make it run smoother. Could this just be worn out motor mounts and they just need to be tighter to hold it in place?
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Jun 1, 2017 23:36
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Holy wow that's bad. Check and make sure the harmonic balancer is intact. If it is, then you have a compression issue.
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Jun 2, 2017 00:14
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That's a good suggestion, it should be fairly obvious. If it's a compression issue, would that be uneven compression? Should I be unloading this thing as fast as possible because it's about to blow? I was planning to keep it for the summer and do a bit more off-roading with it.
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Jun 2, 2017 00:18
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Nah check the balancer first. If it is compression just beat it harder off road.
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Jun 2, 2017 00:33
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A few dumb follow ups then: 1. I haven't had a balancer fail, would it be obvious just looking at it? Or would I need to pull the belts off to see if they're holding it in place? 2. When I did the spark plugs, some dirt got in the threads on one cylinder (there's a lovely pocket around the plugs so it falls in when you remove the plug) and I could never get the plug to feel like it was threading right. It threaded, but rather than strip the head, I may not have bottomed out the plug. How much compression would I be losing if a plug wasn't fully seated? It always idled low, but somewhere along the trip to Utah and back (I did the plugs in Utah) the idle got a lot rougher and I'm wondering if it could be related.
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Jun 2, 2017 17:58
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If a dual-mass balancer has failed (really, the rubber joint), then it will be obviously wobbly. Maybe not just visually, as I've seen them look fine sitting still, but once you got your hands on it and pulled, you knew that it was now just two pieces.
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Jun 2, 2017 19:48
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Here's a stupid question... you know those waterblocks for PC liquid cooling? Is there anything like that, but way bigger (around a square foot by 1/2 inch thick) for automotive use? I have a battery charger for my electric car and it's easy to pop the heatsink/fan combo off it, so I wanna convert it to liquid cooled. Can I take an automotive radiator/condenser and just flatten the fins on it to make a waterclock?
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Jun 2, 2017 20:29
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That might be a custom welding job.
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Jun 2, 2017 20:36
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Zero VGS posted:Here's a stupid question... you know those waterblocks for PC liquid cooling? The industry term for “big waterblock” is “cold plate”.
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Jun 2, 2017 20:50
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Platystemon posted:The industry term for “big waterblock” is “cold plate”. Expensive enough that at any scale you'd definitely want to engineer around it from the start, too. Could be a difficult retrofit.
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Jun 2, 2017 20:55
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Platystemon posted:The industry term for “big waterblock” is “cold plate”. Oh, thanks, using that I found a local place: http://www.lytrondirect.com/store/cold-plates/ Maybe I'll drive over there and see if they will sell me some cheaper b-stock or something.
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Jun 2, 2017 21:15
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Looking to do babby's first suspension work, and replace the rear struts in my '96 Starlet. Planning to either buy spring compressors on eBay (AU$22 shipped) or borrow some from work if they don't mind. The passenger side boot has completely disintegrated, which I know will make for a shorter life on the replacement, a new boot will be another $23. The one on the other side has a plastic tube type thing at the bottom, still does't make a seal. Probably ought to replace that too? I am tempted not to as I'm on a budget and not planning on keeping this car forever, if there's a cheap DIY solution I'd be willing to try that. OTOH, a lot of the reason I'm doing this repair is so I can take it on the occasional unsealed roads with less worry (also because I can feel the back end coming loose everytime I hit a bump...), so maybe it behooves me to be proactive there. Pic of driver's side:  Also, thermostat is reading about 35% of the way up the gauge instead of in the middle, guessing I should probably replace that? Other than that (and needing new tyres) this has been a pretty good $500 beater so far 
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Jun 3, 2017 02:46
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Your thermostat is probably fine. Where the needle is in the range is meaningless in absolute terms. Check on what "normal" is before you do anything. The temperature gauge is always toward the lower end on all the cars I've owned. It makes overheating more obvious.
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Jun 3, 2017 03:15
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My car (2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP) recently had the "check engine soon" light come on so I took it to Autozone and had them read the code. It said the problem was with the "Mass Airflow Sensor". I looked it up online and saw that the problem was incredibly easy to fix, so I ordered the part off of Amazon and tried to do it myself, but the light still remains and when I installed the new part, I heard an extra airflow sound coming out of my engine. I've since put back the old part. Also, sometimes the light doesn't come on. I have a few questions about this. If you look here http://imgur.com/a/4kluu The first image is the old part, the second is the part they sent. Is this the wrong part? It did say compatible with my car. Also, is it guaranteed to be the MAS, or is this some kinda thing where it could be something else but the MAS triggers the issue? Thanks
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Jun 3, 2017 13:33
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Can anyone recommend some tips on removing exhaust manifolds? I'm doing a head gasket on my project car and some of the exhaust nuts feel like they are going to round over. What are my options? I don't really understand how to cut them off without damaging the exhaust studs. Here is a picture, It's a 1993 w201 
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Jun 3, 2017 15:54
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Vlaphor posted:My car (2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP) recently had the "check engine soon" light come on so I took it to Autozone and had them read the code. It said the problem was with the "Mass Airflow Sensor". I looked it up online and saw that the problem was incredibly easy to fix, so I ordered the part off of Amazon and tried to do it myself, but the light still remains and when I installed the new part, I heard an extra airflow sound coming out of my engine. I've since put back the old part. Also, sometimes the light doesn't come on. It sounds like you didn't get a good seal the first time. That can trigger a MAF check engine light too, and would definitely explain the extra air noise.
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Jun 3, 2017 17:58
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bikesonyx posted:Can anyone recommend some tips on removing exhaust manifolds? I'm doing a head gasket on my project car and some of the exhaust nuts feel like they are going to round over. What are my options? I don't really understand how to cut them off without damaging the exhaust studs. Here is a picture, It's a 1993 w201 I'd start with cleaning up the nuts with a wire brush so you can get a socket on them. Then if the engine can still turn over run it until the manifold gets hot before trying anything. You don't actually need to get the nuts off the studs - as rusty as they are they re probably fused together, and assuming there isn't some design fuckery going on like the studs being reverse thread where they screw into the head the whole stud should just turn out with the nut.
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Jun 3, 2017 18:03
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bikesonyx posted:Can anyone recommend some tips on removing exhaust manifolds? I'm doing a head gasket on my project car and some of the exhaust nuts feel like they are going to round over. What are my options? I don't really understand how to cut them off without damaging the exhaust studs. Here is a picture, It's a 1993 w201 like Geoj says. start with a wire brush. Then spray them with penetrating oil for a couple of days. Then try and remove them. Use a 6 point socket to reduce the chance of rounding them off. Expect the stud to come out with the nut as one item on many of them. That doesn't matter. What you want to avoid is snapping a stud off in the head...
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Jun 3, 2017 19:34
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If you don't have an impact wrench now would be a good time to get one. Penetrating oil, then heat, then impact. Rinse/repeat.
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Jun 3, 2017 22:19
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Geoj posted:I'd start with cleaning up the nuts with a wire brush so you can get a socket on them. Tomarse posted:like Geoj says. start with a wire brush.  absolutely correct. They are regular thread, pelican parts recommend double nutting then, but I don't really understand the desired effect of driving them in further. I soaked them again before I left for work, and I'll pick up a wire brush when I leave work. I'm debating getting an extractor, or dremel to cut them off.
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Jun 3, 2017 23:31
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Only cut the nuts off as a last resort, it will be much easier to turn the studs out that way than trying to spin them with a pair of vice grips. Despite their age the threads should be relatively clean behind the manifold since everything is tight, and they regularly get very hot which prevents water/moisture from getting into the threads and rusting or galvanically (assuming an aluminum head) fusing them together.
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Jun 3, 2017 23:36
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2004 Hyundai Accent. Engine started running like crap and the check engine light began flashing, so opened the hood and started googling. Oil dipstick doesn't show any oil despite it being filled pretty recently, and one of the spark plugs is visibly sparking. I have one more work day before I can bring it in to my mechanic. Is the car safe to drive carefully over short distances for a day? Is the risk literally exploding my car or just potentially stranding it in an awkward location?
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Jun 4, 2017 00:06
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Unbelievably White posted:2004 Hyundai Accent. Engine started running like crap and the check engine light began flashing, so opened the hood and started googling. Oil dipstick doesn't show any oil despite it being filled pretty recently, and one of the spark plugs is visibly sparking. I have one more work day before I can bring it in to my mechanic. Is the car safe to drive carefully over short distances for a day? Is the risk literally exploding my car or just potentially stranding it in an awkward location? Generally a flashing check engine light means "hey idiot, pull off somewhere safe and get me towed to a shop". Usually a serious misfire is the cause which if you're seeing visible sparking, would be a serious misfire. If its between the wires, you'll likely need new wires, possibly plugs too depending on age/mileage/time since last service. Edit: And since I'm at work, 4 plugs and a set of wires is like $35 before tax. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 00:16
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At least fill it with oil before you drive it. If it's misfiring and you keep driving it you will eventually melt the catalyst. But lack of oil is far worse.
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Jun 4, 2017 00:18
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Deteriorata posted:Your thermostat is probably fine. Where the needle is in the range is meaningless in absolute terms. Check on what "normal" is before you do anything. The temperature gauge is always toward the lower end on all the cars I've owned. It makes overheating more obvious. Thanks! I think part of it is maybe not running the engine long enough; most of my drives are little 15-20 minute hops around the city. I took it on the highway yesterday and she got up to halfway and held steady. Also there was a rushing air noise at highway speed I remembered from before... thought it might be a bad windscreen seal but turns out probably just the roof racks  edit Tomarse posted:like Geoj says. start with a wire brush. Can getting some localised cooling help in situations like this (IDK, some dry ice or something?)? I have used the freezer to unstick some really stubborn bolts on smaller stuff before. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 00:22
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Generally a flashing check engine light means "hey idiot, pull off somewhere safe and get me towed to a shop". Usually a serious misfire is the cause which if you're seeing visible sparking, would be a serious misfire. If its between the wires, you'll likely need new wires, possibly plugs too depending on age/mileage/time since last service. rdb posted:At least fill it with oil before you drive it. Thanks, I'll go with the tow truck. The oil disappearing that quickly is pretty disconcerting, could there be a relationship? Any chance I just checked the oil too soon?
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Jun 4, 2017 00:51
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A blown spark plug tube seal would cause a good oil leak and cause a misfire if the hole the spark plug sat in filled with oil so possibly! In any case, You've got multiple issues that may or may not be related, so a mechanic is probably the proper choice! Heres to hoping its something cheap!
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Jun 4, 2017 00:53
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