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susan posted:Kind of a generalized minis question, but this feels like the right group to ask: I get really nice wooden crates and barrels from Toad King Castings, they are resin but the quality is superb and decent value for money. The company is in U.K. though so shipping might be a pain depending where you are.
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Jun 3, 2017 09:49
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I'm obviously biased because I would make my own fences and crates out of popsicle sticks. I saw an interesting method of wood grain by dragging a stiff wire brush along the grain that I haven't had an excuse to try out yet.Floppychop posted:What you're doing with simple plasticard is absolutely amazing. I've never actually made just one rhino (when is only just one rhino needed in this drat game). The overall shapes and panels are really simple, I had all 3 chassis and some panels done in 3-5 hours with a bunch of breaks. They're basically offset trapezoids with some panel lines and trim, the most time consuming parts being the smoke stacks and tracks. It's taking me forever to do these because the smaller the detail the more time consuming. Like those stupid Fleur de lis (which are maybe 1"X3/4" in size) were an entire evening to shape enough for every door. Similarly for the launcher components.. Every fancy pants option adds an evening now that I think about it like that. Making one takes almost as long as making 2-3 though, so may as well assembly line it.
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Jun 3, 2017 10:50
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susan posted:Kind of a generalized minis question, but this feels like the right group to ask: Searching for "28mm Scatter Terrain" should turn up a lot of stuff.
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Jun 3, 2017 10:59
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Finished up my counts-as Spellsinger for Age of Sigmar. 
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Jun 4, 2017 01:28
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 nice shading, the skin especially!
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Jun 4, 2017 03:15
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These clanrats are killing me 😭😭😭   Still need to clean up and base those nerds then I'm 12/40  I got a new desk lamp for non hobby purposes and used it for those pictures and it caused a FUCKTON of strobing. I had to ameliorate this by cranking the brightness up, does anyone have any other advice for dealing with that?
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Jun 4, 2017 04:55
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mango sentinel posted:These clanrats are killing me 😭😭😭 (rats looking good so far!) I'm not sure how to help with the strobing, but what kind of lamp is it? I recently grabbed this baby and I'm super happy with it. It's got a nice range of adjustable brightness and temperatures of light output. e.: Oh, susan, for crates and other scatter terrain in MDF, Death Ray Designs have some that might work. Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 05:18
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mango sentinel posted:I got a new desk lamp for non hobby purposes and used it for those pictures and it caused a FUCKTON of strobing. I had to ameliorate this by cranking the brightness up, does anyone have any other advice for dealing with that? It took me a good second to figure out what you were asking as strobing is a video/motion issue (strobe would actually be a solution here.) - you're having a cycle/frequency issue. Play with your shutter speed to match the light cycle, a quick google is telling me 1/50 or 1/60 but I have no idea what kind of lamp you have. Alternatively just get an LED bulb for it.
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Jun 4, 2017 05:20
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Sharks Dont Sleep posted:It took me a good second to figure out what you were asking as strobing is a video/motion issue (strobe would actually be a solution here.) - you're having a cycle/frequency issue. Play with your shutter speed to match the light cycle, a quick google is telling me 1/50 or 1/60 but I have no idea what kind of lamp you have.  Here's an example of what I'm talking about.  It's no big deal because I didn't buy the lamp specifically for taking pictures, I was just hoping it would pull double duty, especially since it's so bright.
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Jun 4, 2017 06:35
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mango sentinel posted:It is an LED lamp, and yeah, I should have said banding maybe instead of strobing. Trying to match 60hz with 1/60 shutter speed is almost completely blown out white Ohhhh, ok that's totally different than what I was thinking was happening (which was issues with a gas-lamp flicker) - those are LED scan lines/banding. I have no idea if this is an issue specifically with the light itself, the sensor, or a combination of the two. You can't just tighten your aperture and lower your ISO setting to compensate for the blow out? I mean you can always do what the professionals do... move the light farther back.  (No idea what camera you have, but you could try playing around with disabling the electronic shutter/MS mode.)
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Jun 4, 2017 07:34
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It's with my cell phone camera (Moto Z) and fiddling around with pro settings got me to the Skaven pictures I posted, but couldn't do much better. I do have an old DSLR, and it apparently doesn't give a gently caress about it so I'll just go to the trouble of using that going forward.  Thanks for your advice.
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Jun 4, 2017 08:20
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Roughly How many coats of base should I be looking at to not be seeing the primer underneath anymore to work out if I'm just watering down way too much?
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Jun 4, 2017 08:40
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It's going to vary based on the pigment strength. I go for the consistency of milk, if I'm trying to paint 'all fancy like'
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Jun 4, 2017 08:58
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Southern Heel posted:It's going to vary based on the pigment strength. I go for the consistency of milk, if I'm trying to paint 'all fancy like' Is it normal to still feel with the bigger smooth areas like you're just pushing it around without getting much colour actually sticking after three coats?
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Jun 4, 2017 09:04
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Are you trying to paint red or yellow? If so possibly depending on the paint you're using. If you're doing basecoating by hand the citadel foundation paints are worth a consideration, they aren't the most beatiful colours but they have really strong coverage and will give you a nice base for the colour you actually want. I always tell people to consider an airbrush even if all they use it for is basecoating. Edit: Did a whole bunch of basecoating last sunday, took me half a day total. Plus it already has a basic gradient going on. 
Bistromatic fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 09:24
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Bistromatic posted:I always tell people to consider an airbrush even if all they use it for is basecoating. I'll second this. I pretty much only use my airbrush for priming and basecoating and I never want to go back.
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Jun 4, 2017 09:38
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Solemn Sloth posted:Is it normal to still feel with the bigger smooth areas like you're just pushing it around without getting much colour actually sticking after three coats? If the paint is beading on the surface, you're watering it down too much. If the paint is sticking but you can still see the undercoat through it, consider starting with a slightly darker or higher pigment base coat. For example, I tend to base coat anything red with Doombull Brown.
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Jun 4, 2017 10:02
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mango sentinel posted:It's with my cell phone camera (Moto Z) and fiddling around with pro settings got me to the Skaven pictures I posted, but couldn't do much better. Nice Chaos Warrior by the way. It's a simple conversion that I've not seen before.
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Jun 4, 2017 10:06
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Floppychop posted:I'll second this. 100% Priming models with rattle cans seems backwards now.
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Jun 4, 2017 10:09
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Yeast posted:100% Well the reason to use rattle cans is because you don't have an airbrush
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Jun 4, 2017 10:11
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Floppychop posted:I'll second this. I have two cheap airbrushes - one siphon and one gravity fed. I don't have a compressor. Is there a good minimum-cost compressor I can get?
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Jun 4, 2017 12:33
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Zaphod42 posted:Well the reason to use rattle cans is because you don't have an airbrush Exactly. So backwards.
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Jun 4, 2017 12:58
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I have an airbrush and I haven't done that. I probably should.
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Jun 4, 2017 14:39
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Perhaps, but I don't need to strip and clean a rattle-can every time I use it. 
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Jun 4, 2017 17:02
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Ilor posted:Perhaps, but I don't need to strip and clean a rattle-can every time I use it. I don't really have to do that with my airbrush either. My basic airbrush clean takes maybe 15 seconds longer than cleaning my hand brushes. (For a total of like 30 seconds) Once you figure out how to get your paint consistency correct, it shouldn't jam up too bad usually. Vallejo Flow Improver is magic.
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Jun 4, 2017 17:30
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What's the best way to fix a dull coat that got a little cloudy? I was a bit aggressive in throwing a matte coat on (Valdspar Premium Finish Micromist Spray in Flat, if it matters) after my gloss coat had dried for a week, or maybe I sprayed from too close, and anyways I would like to fix it. Not a bi deal, but frustrating because the rest of the paint job I am pretty happy with.
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Jun 4, 2017 18:21
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Arcturas posted:What's the best way to fix a dull coat that got a little cloudy? I was a bit aggressive in throwing a matte coat on (Valdspar Premium Finish Micromist Spray in Flat, if it matters) after my gloss coat had dried for a week, or maybe I sprayed from too close, and anyways I would like to fix it. Not a bi deal, but frustrating because the rest of the paint job I am pretty happy with. Hit it with a coat of gloss again. That usually does the trick.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:05
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Slimnoid posted:Hit it with a coat of gloss again. That usually does the trick. Just a light gloss coat? I can do that.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:29
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Bad Munki posted:Haven't painted for a while but the latest shipment of bones has me jonesin', so I did this guy tonight. He's okay, since it only took like an hour and a half, maybe two hours, but I'm not really stoked about the result. Any advice for my scary monster man? Looks nice, but maybe add verdigris to the armour with some turquoise and light green and weather the axe, some rust stains maybe.
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Jun 4, 2017 20:00
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So I tried this DIY Paint shaker today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMmMls-GYOI It works really well, and cost me all of $6 for a clamp. If you've already got a jigsaw, it's a cheap solution.
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Jun 4, 2017 21:07
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VolatileSky posted:I recently discovered the Deimos pattern rhinos, and I really love that front end, so I'm going to be adding that to each of the exorcists tonight. Those boxes aren't too bad in comparison to other components, so not too freaked out about that after thought addition. You are doing incredible work. Have you tried casting your tracks? Casting them in green-stuff using a simple one-sided putty mold may be all you need. I like that you are using actual capacitors 
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Jun 4, 2017 21:24
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. I didn't realise the valdor is so loving huge until placed next to the rhinos. If anyone is interested in scratch building, it takes time but it's not too technically too demanding, just carefully measure twice cut once. But if you have large sections of tracks needed, try to find pre-made ones, that's honestly turned out to be the most soul crushing portion of this.
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Southern Heel posted:I have two cheap airbrushes - one siphon and one gravity fed. I don't have a compressor. Is there a good minimum-cost compressor I can get? Cheapest? Old tire and a hose. I got one of the Master ones with a tank. The cheap compressors are generally loudish and can sometimes pulse but a tank basically fixes both problems.
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Jun 4, 2017 21:24
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I let my 7 yr old daughter paint one of my old starter set Marines, all by herself. This is what she turned out.  From all the red splatters, I'd say this dude has seen some poo poo.
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Jun 4, 2017 21:51
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Funzo posted:I let my 7 yr old daughter paint one of my old starter set Marines, all by herself. This is what she turned out. Way better than me. By the way, I haven't touched my paints in a while like probably 5 months now. Tehy've all been opened and they're all Citadel official paints. Probably useless now, huh?
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Jun 4, 2017 21:57
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Nah, I've got some that are a couple years old. You should be fine.
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Jun 4, 2017 22:00
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ineptmule posted:Nice Chaos Warrior by the way. It's a simple conversion that I've not seen before.  Unfortunately I'm real bad at posing stuff and Liberators don't have a lot of options on top of that so they all look real same-y, but I guess that thematically fits Chaos Warriors 
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Jun 4, 2017 22:40
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Funzo posted:I let my 7 yr old daughter paint one of my old starter set Marines, all by herself. This is what she turned out. Grim Darkness.
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Jun 4, 2017 22:45
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mango sentinel posted:Thanks! I've done one Blood Warrior and five Sigmans. I've got a few Easy Build Liberators I'm thinking of fighting with for some more conversions then just mixing them with regular Chaos Warriors to fill out a 20-man unit. The Chaos heads and shields are a pretty great idea.
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Jun 4, 2017 22:59
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WIP of my Nob w/ WAAAGH! Banner.   Honestly half the time I like converting more than I like painting.
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Jun 4, 2017 23:04
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
Same except all the time. Its also one of the pillars of truth that make Orks the perfect faction. Current project: something that only other Ork players will ever notice, probably  Up to 12 unique Deffguns. Only 3 to go for a full squad 
Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 23:32
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